2011 Bulang and 2012 Mengsong Malaysia stored sheng pu'ers

 

I'm reviewing two older sheng pu'er versions, again from the Legend of Tea vendor in Malaysia (sent by them for review; many thanks!).  This should be interesting for balancing out a set of different aged versions from them and from Tea Mania, a Swiss vendor I've also been reviewing teas from.  

I'll cover their listing description, then the review, which I essentially always write before reading any description.

2011 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea  (Bu Lang origin, $77.70 for 200 grams, equivalent to $139 for a 357 gram cake)

The raw material selected by XiaoBaWang in 2009 is from BuLang Mountain, which is one of the six ancient tea mountains in China, and it is also one of the most famous Puer tea production areas. BuLang Mountain is located in South Asia, with a tropical monsoon climate, full of sunshine, abundant rainfall. These natural conditions contribute BuLang Mountain Tea as a legend in Puer tea.

Tea liquor tastes high sweetness, after 9 years of storage in the pure dry warehouse, it becomes thick and smooth, not astringent, not dry, and docile.

A little to unpack there:  that may well be tea that's two years older than the pressing date (which isn't so unusual), with the 9 years time-frame just relating to when the page listing was updated (in 2020, it would seem).  The "dry warehouse" part relates to natural storage, per discussion with the vendor; conditions weren't maintained at a consistently high humidity level.

2012 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea  ($72.96 for 200 grams, equivalent to $130 for standard 357 cake)

XiaoBaWang 2012 chose to use spring tea leaves from MengSong Mountain, MengHai County. MengSong is one of the oldest ancient tea plant in MengHai, the history of MengSong Mountain minority tea planting is as long as that of NanNuo Mountain minority tea planting.

The tea leaves are tightly knotted, bitterness melts in the mouth, leaving a lingering aroma. The palate is rich and thick, with a sweet aroma of honey fruit.

That seems clear enough.

Review:

2011 Bulang:  it's pretty subtle at this point, warm tones and not much more.  It will open up a bit and strengthen, it's just a matter of how much.  I actually used a rinse this time too.  I'll push it the next round and add more description.

2012 Meng Song:  also subtle, also warm in tone, but a bit different.  Both of these express a slight mustiness, like old book or stored boxes smell, which I don't see as necessarily too negative.  That kind of thing can transition away within a round or two, as harsher astringency sometimes does in younger sheng.

2011 Bulang #2:  perhaps brewed a bit too long, from the color, but that will move things along.  This is definitely well-aged sheng, towards the end of that process.  Breaking that down to a flavor list is never so easy.  People end up mentioning descriptions like camphor, medicinal herb, ju-jube (Chinese date), and old books, which are all reasonable and valid enough, but those can lend themselves to seeming a bit vague.  Medicinal herb could be a lot of things, and "old books" is sort of an underlying context or impression.  

This tastes a little like old books, or old furniture.  I suppose there's a sort of old tropical hardwood flavor going along with that.  Feel is interesting, with some fullness, and then also dryness.  I can't really place fruit or spice, and that list doesn't seem long enough yet, to describe what I'm experiencing.

2012 Meng Song:  there's a good bit more root spice to this, or something along that line.  It could be a bark spice.  Old books might also work.  It comes across as more intense; the other is still a bit subtle at this point.  Again feel has some structure and also some dryness.  Ju-jube might actually fit for this one; kind of funny it works out like that.

2011 Bulang #3:  it's funny how much intensity and complexity comes across in this, with it still hard to describe as tasting like much.  It has a lot of depth.  Warm mineral tones stand out, and that aged books sort of theme, more pronounced than it usually is, more of a main flavor component, versus a supporting aspect.  I've tried varying versions of aged teas that seem to just fade, and a warm depth remains, but not much else, and this isn't like that.  It doesn't work to say this is subtle, but in one sense that's true.  A faint woodiness is also present, like the deep washed-out scent of driftwood.  It's probably better than it sounds, related to how much I like it.

2012 Meng Song:  this is more intense, more conventional.  Old books flavor is also present in this, or maybe it's old furniture.  Again the rest is a bit like a spice-tone, maybe a root, possibly bark.  Interpretation as dried fruit could work, again with Chinese date working as well as any other.

Both are fairly clean at this point; that initial mustiness did drop out.  Mouthfeel is unusual for both, or maybe not that unusual related to how well-aged sheng go.  It's full in a different sense, even a little dry, with strong mineral tones seeming to match with that experience, with both carrying over.  It's interesting that mouthfeel can carry over, as is common with aftertaste.  These are definitely truly aged sheng versions, pretty far along for this being only 13 years old.

I used the broken parts of the sample for this Meng Song version; that probably affected the feel, bringing out even more dryness, which may soften over a couple of more rounds.

2011 Bulang #4:  it improves, but it's still subtle.  A warm sweetness picks up.  For people on this page this experience could be lovely, but for many others they just wouldn't get it.  I'm in the middle.  

It's complex enough that someone with the right background or imagination could list out a very long flavor and feel aspect list, and then for most it wouldn't come across as expressing much that's distinct at all.  Aged sheng can be like this.  

On the positive side this may well be a humid-stored sheng version that's now 16 years old, not 14, and for some trying a relatively fully aged version might be really novel.  It might mellow and deepen a little but it's pretty much there.

2012 Meng Song:  perhaps easier to relate to for stronger flavors emerging, and more distinct individual flavor range, rather than mostly depth and mineral, with aged books or furniture range.  It might taste a little greener at this stage (in the infusion count, related to transitions over this brewing cycle).  It's warm, and well-aged, with almost all the vegetal range switched over to warmer flavors (aged wood, spice, etc.), but the process isn't absolutely complete, it can still probably change more.  13 years is a long time in warm and humid storage conditions, but it's still not the same as 20 to 25.

Both of these express so much warm mineral depth.  It's one thing to say that, but hard to convey what that is like.

2011 Bulang #5:  it shifts a bit into spice range, maybe a subtle root spice, along the line of ginseng, or maybe some medicinal herb type I'm not familiar with.  It's funny how it lacks more up-front or forward flavors but the depth adds up to an experience of complexity, and even intensity.  It's also clean, and heavy on mineral base tones.  It's interesting.

2012 Meng Song:  this shifts, but it's within the same dried fruit / bark spice range.  It's really coming into its own at this stage, the best it has been.  Dryness fades, and fullness and richness pick up.  Trying them one after the other I do like this better, especially at this point, but the other has been improving as well, smoothing out and picking up more depth and complexity.

2011 Bulang #6:  a reference to something like a macadamia nut might help place what I've been trying to express, a nut type that is rich and complex, heavy with creamy flavor, but that doesn't taste like much, at least that's easy to pin down.  It tastes like a macadamia nut; that's it.  Some of that richness and fullness is present in this.  It might be closer to a Brazil nut, I think.  There's a warm mineral edge that's common across different kinds of tea, that's also hard to place.  Like driftwood?  Or subtle spice?  The aged books reference doesn't work as well since the flavor is so clean at this stage, but it might still cover a part of it.

2012 Meng Song:  that mix of flavors I've been describing doesn't seem like an ideal description, but it's probably as close as I'm going to get.  It shifts just a little each round, but the same set just comes across differently, shifting the balance of each input.  Warm mineral undertone is still a main part of the experience of both, and feel is unique for both.

Skipping reviewing late rounds isn't because there wouldn't be more to tell.  This covers most of the story, and it's too much for me to get through.

Conclusions:

It probably didn't help that I do those tastings on weekend mornings, and rush to get to errands.  Today it's a doctor's visit; yesterday it was something else.  For teas like these it's better to take your time, to drink them over an hour or more, letting the experience settle in.

They seemed good.  That would relate to preference, as for any tea type or version, and aged sheng is an unusual range.  It can be complex but subtle.  Maybe only the older Bulang version really seemed subtle, and even for that version that description isn't the best fit.

This reminds me of trying an aged sheng version (from Thailand) with a local contact, who was well-known in tea discussion circles back then, on Tea Chat.  He commented that it seemed about right, in the right range, and was pleasant, but it didn't work as well to describe what that range was, or why it was positive.  That might've been 8 or 9 years ago, and that tea was probably around this age then, or maybe slightly newer.  I'm not really capturing why these work out well here either.  Maybe if I'd added camphor as a description that would clarify everything.

Aged Xiaguan and other factory teas are completely different.  They wouldn't typically be this approachable at "only" 13 and 14 years old (or 16; the other may have been pressed from material that wasn't new), even stored in a humid and warm place.  Intensity would be dialed way up, probably with some aspects seeming like rough edges.

So just how good are these, and do they seem to represent a good version of "boutique" style-range teas?  I suppose that second distinction might be a bit broad to evaluate.  Styles and forms would vary too much.  To me they seem quite pleasant, like good examples of these kinds of styles, and it reduces down more to whether or not someone likes this type range of tea, transitioned through this form of storage input.  Maybe I do like the trade-off of rough edges and heavier barnyard flavors for older Xiaguan better, but that wouldn't work as well this young, no matter the storage conditions.  For this age these styles seem pretty suitable; they work well fermentation transitioned this much.

To make all that more specific I suppose it depends on whether someone likes the complex, layered, but somewhat subtle character of the Bulang, or the spice-range intensive distinctive flavor of the Mengsong version.  Again to me they're fine, they're good.  I suppose I liked where that younger Bulang was better (from 2021), how somewhat transitioned but still young floral range stood out.

Of course I can't extend all of this to any guesses about what these were like when brand new, or 4 years into aging.  It would be nice if I could, or if anyone else could.  With enough exposure some transition patterns would have to stand out, but it may not work well to guess what flavors had dropped out.

It's even difficult to specify how these relate to my own preference.  They're good, and I would like drinking each if I owned them, but nothing really stands out as something I couldn't do without.  It's nice how the Bulang expresses so much complexity and depth, even if forward flavor notes are limited.  The extra flavor intensity of the Mengsong version is nice, but that kind of root spice range isn't really a personal favorite.

Related to value it's an unusual opportunity to buy cakes of this quality and aged character for this general pricing range ($130-some, or both were really $70-some for 200 gram versions).  That's fairly standard range pricing for young sheng, at this point.  These are obviously a boutique style tea material and style.  That's not a great thing, if a tea ends up fading away, or aging results aren't positive, but these are good quality.  Maybe earlier on a quality marker could've identified the Tea Mania versions I just reviewed as slightly better, a little more complexity or depth, but at this stage, since they lack much for flaws, it's more about match to preference, instead of quality level being a limitation.  

I was hoping that more of a connection with the Tea Mania 2017 and 2018 versions would turn up (from Bulang and Hekai), but those are at the opposite side of the aging range, and I can't guess about what will lead to what to that extent.

visiting One Bangkok, a new mall

it's a good place to catch a movie.  if you've been considering seeing Fantastic Four you should go; it was great.

Tea Mania 2017 Bulang and 2018 Hekai gushu sheng pu'er

 

2017 Bulang left, in all photos

I'm reviewing the oldest of the Tea Mania sheng pu'er samples (sent by Peter, the owner, for review; many thanks!).  At these ages these won't be truly aged sheng versions, so this will be about where they are in that process, and how intermediate stage sheng work out, what being part-way through a fermentation cycle is like.  It would vary by the tea version, in relation to the starting point, so this should be interesting.

I'll start with the vendor's description of these:

Bulang Gushu 2017, (357 gram cake for $188 USD)

Experience the excellence of our Bulang Gushu, a remarkable tea born from the collaboration of Tea Masters Panda and Yang Ming. Crafted exclusively for us, they have meticulously captured our deep appreciation for Bulang teas. Stored for seven years in Xishuangbanna, this tea has matured beautifully, becoming wonderfully ripe and developing a subtle hint of camphor aroma. It evokes memories of the legendary 2015 Bulang Gushu—a favorite that has long since sold out—offering a similarly captivating allure.

Building upon the legacy of both the 2015 Bulang and the distinguished 5-Village Blend, this Bulang Gushu holds special significance—it originates from the tea gardens of Yang Ming’s former schoolmate. 

 

Hekai Gushu 2018,  (200 gram cake for $88, equivalent to $157 for a 357 gram cake)

These leaves, from the venerable 300-year-old Gushu trees of Hekai Shan, were skillfully processed into 200g Bingcha cakes at Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory. The tea distinguishes itself with a signature Hekai aroma, enriched by the deep, clear essence of the Gushu leaves and a subtle camphor nuance. Ideal for long-term aging, this tea’s flavor is designed to evolve and refine over time, embodying the essence of Hekai Gushu.

Funny camphor is almost the only flavor referenced in these; I wrote notes for the next review already and joked that maybe it would make more sense if I described them as tasting like camphor.  Typically that's a reference to a sub-tone that's not all that close to the camphor that stands out in balms or Thai scent sticks.  Or maybe people really are tasting that, but I tend not to.

Review:

Bulang #1:  warmer aged tones stand out initially; I suppose that's a good sign.  Per usual this will need another round or two to get going.  A flavor range along the lines of tobacco stands out, or that could be incense spice, or old furniture, antique tropical wood [or per the intro section theme, maybe camphor]. Brighter floral tones have probably evolved away.  Some bitterness remains, but this is approachable.

Hekai:  much brighter and sweeter; interesting.  A jammy sort of flavor stands out this early on.  It's towards a blueberry or black cherry jam.  There is some warmth to the character range, but not like in the other version.  A savory note rounds out that sweetness and cooked fruit range.  This should be interesting.

Bulang #2:  that first description still works: there's an interesting mix of complex, warm flavor tones.  It picks up a little depth; maybe a touch of marshmallow joins the rest.  Of course I wouldn't expect most people to make that association, especially within that context of warm tobacco, tropical wood, and incense spice tone range.  Feel has a bit of dryness, and plenty of structure.  That's not overly pleasant in this, and not negative, but it may relate to it having complexity that could support additional transitions, to aging potential.

Hekai:  root spice tones are dominant now, with a bit of fruit remaining.  By that I mean along the line of ginseng, so an alternate interpretation of herbal medicinal flavor would be saying the same thing.  Maybe it relates a little to sassafras too, tasting a little like root beer, just not much.  The lighter tone is nice, the brightness.  It matches well with the sweetness, and that flavor complexity.  Brewing both of these fast should work now; they're intense enough for that to work well.

Bulang #3:  to an extent intensity dropped back for trying out an infusion of less than 10 seconds, but in another sense this is still quite complex.  Feel stays full, and one part remains behind in aftertaste expression.  The warmer tones are a little less intense but it's still complex in that same way, still covering that same range.  There isn't that much floral range to speak of; that seems to have largely evolved away.  Bitterness is present but very moderate.  I suppose this is the kind of tea that match to preference would determine placement for, that some people would love this, and others not like it.  

It's not exactly at an in-between age that doesn't make sense, but it probably would have seemed more positive a few years ago, and will balance in a different positive way in a few more.  So in a sense that's it, but it still balances reasonably well now.

Hekai:  this definitely seems to make more sense at this current age.  The warm tones, good sweetness, and root spice all work together well.  It seems like another half dozen years of transitioning in the same direction might be quite positive, but it works well now too.  Feel is a bit richer and fuller, while the other includes a dryness that takes over what you notice.

It's interesting considering fermentation level; are these less transitioned than the 2021 versions I've been trying that were stored in Malaysia, and if so, how are they different?  Yes, to the first part. 7 and 8 years of transition doesn't add up to the same degree 4 or 5 did for those other teas (from Legend of Tea).  Change has been slower, more gradual.  I suppose heavier flavor range doesn't enter in as fast, instead of the level being a linear distance or amount sort of thing.

Bulang #4:  it's changing, but only related to the proportion of what I've already mentioned.  I suppose that it's softening, in a sense, with the flavors becoming warmer and richer.  Feel is also softening; that dryness is dropping out.  I suppose a green tone may also be picking up a little.  

This is a sort of in-between age theme, just not in a form I'm completely familiar with.  Warmer transitioned tones picked up quite a bit, with what I assume was earlier floral range shifting to now be expressed as green wood, earlier on more in the range of warmer aged tropical wood.

Hekai:  that spice note is catchy.  Maybe within a year or two this might make less sense, being more in-between, divided between where it is now and where it's headed.  For as gradually as these seem to be transitioning it might be a long wait to more fully aged character, possibly relating to another decade, depending on where it is stored next.  It would be a real shame if it just faded.  I'd guess that it won't, that it's intense enough now, even for dividing character across a significant range, that it will retain decent intensity for that longer term. 

Kalani helped take this picture; I usually leave the toast out of it

Bulang #5:  depth is good; a charcoal sort of mineral range picks up.  It stands out more than the green wood range that has evolved.  Tobacco still works as a main flavor interpretation.  

Hekai:  that interesting spice tone stands out, but some green wood range is fairly pronounced now too.  I think these aren't at the best stage for drinking just now, probably better younger, or much more aged.  They're pleasant, and clearly good tea, intense, complex, and balanced, but this fermentation level isn't a natural optimum.  I'm not sure what I expected, looking back.  Whatever storage they experienced--in comparison with the other two I've tried, and in general--doesn't push the pace of transition, so they would be right in between newish and aged.

Infusion #6, both:  more of the same, just slight differences in aspect balance.  To me both are at an age where it could be interesting trying them once a year to see what changes, but they're just not there for transition to a place that makes the most sense.  

Then the problem is that if you buy a small cake, 150 to 200 grams, if you try it even once a year for a decade it's mostly gone by the time it gets to where it's going.  I've bought two cakes of the same tea for this purpose before, to keep trying one, and to have one for later when it really does make more sense.  But are these a great prospect for that?

I'm not sure.  I can't really judge in relation to an in-between-age snapshot related to later direction and aging potential.  I haven't tried enough versions over a long enough time-frame to tell.  Even if I had been through that experience a few dozen times it may not be enough.  Different factors could always be entering into play, related to different storage conditions, different inputs that tie to aging potential (like origin, tea plant age as one factor, or processing style).  It would be easy to experience the same types of patterns over and over, and to skip entire ranges of inputs and outcomes.

Still, I should be able to guess, right?  Something must trigger some pattern recognition.  Not really though.  I've experienced more of factory tea themes, related to relatively fully aged versions.  Related to gambling on lower quality, more inexpensive cakes--which is easier, in terms of budget allocation--I'm more familiar with what tends to go wrong.  These aren't just fading; they avoid that limitation.  They are picking up a woody character, but that can be expressed in a different form that never does fade, a warmer, cured hardwood sort of tone.  As I take it this vegetal range these express will change over, I'm just not sure to what.  

So potential is good?  Maybe, I just can't really conclude that either.  It's promising that they are clean, complex, intense enough, and well-balanced, even though they are at two different places in intermediate aging transition stages.  The quality seems quite good, intensity is more of a concern, if they'll fade over the next decade, and then what aspects will be like once they change over.

Myra visiting early in the session

Tea Mania 2021 Jing Mai and 2022 Yiwu sheng pu'er

 

I'm reviewing two more sheng pu'er from Tea Mania, one of my all-time favorite sources, and one of the best value places to buy sheng pu'er on the internet.  These were sent by the owner, Peter, for review (many thanks for that!).  

I'll get around to saying a bit about value, but these are "gushu," old plant material versions, which are ordinarily out of my normal budget.  If I remember right his pricing doesn't typically reach up to $1 a gram, so it's not as high as has long since been conventional for many sources.  But you pay more for this range of teas expressing a bit more depth, and more mineral undertone, and potentially causing a slightly different body feel experience.

This ties in well to trying a number of sheng pu'er from a Malaysian source, from Legend of Tea.  I've been having trouble placing those within the higher end of the quality scale, and comparison with these could help.  I still may not be familiar with the absolute best of the best quality sheng pu'er sold anywhere for any price, but teas from this source are always really good, pretty far up the practical part of that scale.

I typically cite vendor listings, to let them add a description, and to cite pricing, but I don't see the 2021 Jing Mai version listed.  I'll add another different year citation here, but of course even if the tea had been identical different aging would make it different:

Jing Mai Gushu, 2017 (not 2021), listing for $112 USD (90 CHF) for 250 grams

 

That pricing is equivalent to $160 for a 357 gram cake, or 45 cents per gram, on the fair side for gushu material, if it matches expectations for that type range (which is never just one thing)..

Together with our friend, Tea Master Panda, we went to Jing Mai to find the ideal Gushu tea leaves. Thoes leaves have been processed in Yang Mings tiny tea factory to traditional 250g Bingcha.

For this Bingcha we used Pu-erh tea leaves of up to several hundred years old tea trees (Gushu) from Da Ping Zhang in Jing Mai and stone pressed. The tea garden with the old tea trees is located at about 1600m. The the top of the mauntain forms a plateau instead of a peak. Therefore, all tea leaves are grown on a similar altitude.

Harvest: Spring 2017

Pressed: 2017

Taste: Mild and fruity with a sweet aftertaste

Terroir: Jing Mai, Puer prefecture, Yunnan province, China.

Yiwu Gushu 2022  ($106 USD for a 200 gram cake)

This pricing equates to $190 for a 357 cake, or 53 cents a gram.

 

These exceptional leaves have been expertly processed in Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory into traditional bingcha Pu-erh tea cakes.

Yiwu Gushu 2022 is crafted from tea leaves harvested from ancient tea trees, some over 300 years old (Gushu), located in the renowned Yiwu region. The tea bears a striking resemblance to our immensely popular Lucky Bee, sharing the distinctive Yiwu aroma. Additionally, it offers the well-known depth and clarity characteristic of Gushu leaves, along with a subtle hint of camphor...

Yang Ming is a local tea farmer from Yiwu, descended from a family with a long-standing tradition in Pu-erh production. His tea fields are the source of our beloved Lucky Bee teas...

Harvest: Spring 2022

Pressed: 2022

Aroma: Mild and sweet with a typically Gushu aftertaste

Terroir: Yiwu Shan, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan province of China

For lower cost versions that are still really pleasant that Lucky Bee line mentioned represents unusual value.  But this is about reviewing the gushu versions.

they press tea coins for use as samples, with that form involving some trade-offs

Review:

2021 Jing Mai gushu:  that's really fruity for Jing Mai.  It's so complex that even for an initial long soak to get the tea coin opened up I'd need to use a few descriptors to unpack what fruit is being expressed.  Maybe along the line of red raspberry, mostly, or possibly even dried red raspberry.  Bitterness isn't even started yet, but then this is brewed light, for only the outer part of the coin being wetted so far.

2022 Yiwu gushu:  sweetness and floral range stand out in this right away.  There's already a different kind of depth in this, not just the mineral undertone, which is going to stand out in both to some extent, but along the line of spice, or maybe aromatic tropical wood.  Even the next round isn't going to cover where these actually are, related to them still opening up, so I'll say a little about second round and do a flavor list breakdown on the third.

Jing Mai #2:  fruity, complex, well-balanced; this will be nice.

Yiwu:  interesting that this expresses more depth; I tend to think of Yiwu as being mostly floral, sweet, round and full, and approachable.

It's an option to try to tear these coins apart after a second brewing round, but they're too solid still for that to make sense to me.  Maybe I'll tease them apart a bit more after another longer soak.  Of course this is going to cause some of the tea to be on the 4th infusion when some is just starting out, but that doesn't ruin the experience, it just causes a different type of complexity, trying it at different infusion stages mixed together.  Not optimum, according to many, but it's fine, it works.  The dragonball form seems even worse, to me; getting that fully infused takes awhile.

Jing Mai #3:  pine does finally enter in, not so much the subdued pine forest effect I kept talking about in reviewing a recent Jing Mai version, but actual fresh needle flavor.  Then this is also still quite fruity.  The balance is really nice.  It's odd how limited bitterness expression and the distinctive astringency is; this is very approachable.  Flavors are bright and fresh; 4 years of aging hasn't led to a warmer tone, or offset bright notes.  Maybe these were stored somewhere in Yunnan?

Yiwu:  there is plenty of floral range to this, and an interesting spice tone.  Some of the sweetness could be interpreted as relating to citrus, but only a touch of it, maybe to dried tangerine peel.  These taste good.  Balance is great, freshness is nice, sweetness is high, and complexity is good.  I think a mineral base is playing more role in tying it all together than it's easy to notice; it doesn't stand out.  They're both really clean and intense.  

This is probably only the start of them tasting like they will across the middle rounds, not even there yet.  Maybe some of the initial brightness and freshness, the early round effect, is nice for being mixed in across rounds, from the hard middle getting wet later.  If they were challenging that would be the opposite, that the tea loosening up would be taking awhile, but they're not.  I'll keep going with long soaks to get the initial infusion process going, to get the middle soaked.

Jing Mai #4:  transitions might be harder to identify since new tea at the center of the coin keeps getting wetted for the first time each round.  At least this is bright, sweet, fresh, fruity, and complex, very pleasant.  Mouthfeel changes; it picks up some fullness.  Aftertaste intensity might be ramping up too.  That pine note isn't too piney; it mixes fresh needle effect with a bit of pine cone flavor, with fruit standing out more.

Yiwu:  it's hard to describe how rich and complex the floral range is.  It's nice.  I wouldn't necessarily keep aging this; it's in a great place right now.  It would be interesting seeing how floral tones become even warmer and richer over 2 or 3 more years, but then you'd be trading out some freshness and brightness, and once it switches towards fully fermented aspect range to me you would have probably lost what represents this tea's most pleasant potential.

There's very limited bitterness, and some fullness of feel, some structure, but it's the opposite of challenging.  A longer soak might finally get to the next place in the transition cycle for both.

Jing Mai #5:  the pine note switches over from also tasting like pine cone to expressing mostly spice.  That's stronger than the fruit now, kind of balancing, but more within that spice and vegetal range.  Vegetal makes it sound like a claim this tastes like green bean or grass; it's not that.  Pine cone or aged tropical hardwood are vegetal, just not in an ordinary sense.  

Yiwu:  savory edge picks up in this, tied to the list of flavors I keep describing.  This doesn't seem like the floral-intensive, less balanced Yiwu I've mostly tried in the past.  The warm towards tropical hardwood part people would probably interpret differently, as spice instead, or some form of dried fruit, maybe on to more exotic descriptions outside of food range, tasting like a particular type of clean canvas, or like a wicker chair.

Jing Mai #6:  I'm usually saying that I've got to go do something right about now, and today it's a doctor's appointment.  Eye is feeding the kittens for me or I'd be on break for that right now; I'm more or less mother to two month old kittens just now.  I finally tore these two coins in two, the first attempt at making them fully open the manual way.

That's so good!  I've been drinking this tea for 5 rounds, so it shouldn't come as a surprise, but the final push of intensity from it finally fully brewing all of the tea is really something.  Feel depth changed, and something along the line of an aromatic wood note entered in, like cedar or redwood, or maybe even sandalwood.  Sweetness is pronounced too, and there is some fruit balancing that, and a touch of pine.  The complexity is great.  I could relate to someone saying that Jing Mai teas aren't necessarily for them in a recent review citation, but this is something different, not just pine with a touch of floral tone.

Yiwu:  this includes a comparable warm spice-like or aromatic wood tone range, and richer, deeper floral range, perhaps with just a hint of citrus, so it's comparable, but completely different.  They harmonize with each other, filling similar roles in different ways, just a bit off-key from each other, but in a way that balances.

A savory experience is unique in this.  It's almost a touch of sun-dried tomato entering in, along with all the rest.  It's not at all what I expected, more of a sweet and complex floral range experience.  

Trading out transition speed and clarity for these coins taking awhile to get wet kind of worked out, since these will keep changing over a few more rounds, and continue on as interesting and well-balanced way past 10 rounds.  Eventually a more brewed-out bitterness will enter in, but it will help that these were so approachable through the first long stage.

I'm going to blasted by these teas; powering through 14 rounds is a lot.  It could help that the infusions weren't overly intense, as I'm prone to cause when using 9 grams of already loose material.

Jing Mai #7:  again, as for all of these rounds, that fruit note is amazing.  It's so complex that it must relate best to a mix of different fruits.  Dried raspberry may be a main theme, but there's more to it.  Gradually increasing light bitterness and a fuller, dryer feel are pleasant.

Yiwu:  this experience integrates so well that breaking it down to 3 or 4 main parts mis-represents how you actually experience it.  It's good.  It's going to be hard to place how much better these are than the Legend of Tea versions, but they are a little better, even beyond lots of difference just relating to preference or character differences.  Both could be equivalent amazing value.

Conclusions:

I've concluded so much already!  The teas were just great.  I had made it sound like they were going to brew 15 great rounds based on starting so slowly but at 10 or 12 the effects of pushing the outer material to brew faster started to show, and some characteristic late-round bitterness and green wood effect entered in, mixing with flavors I described in the first 6 or 8 rounds in the notes.  They still brewed a full cycle, over 10 rounds, but there was no free lunch related to the interior taking awhile to get soaked, so they didn't make it to 15.

Is there any one or more aspect or character ranges that sets them apart as gushu?  One part of the vendor description mentioned depth and clarity (as related), and another referenced aftertaste expression being different, or more intensive.  All of that was impressive.

I think clarity is worth considering further.  I might reference an overlapping aspect I refer to as refinement, when a tea isn't just complex, intense, pleasant, and so on, but expresses something else.  I see it as the opposite side of not expressing flaws, as going further in the other direction.

Is that worth shifting to paying 50 cents a gram for a tea instead of 30-some, beyond flavor aspects just being positive?  I suppose it depends on tea budget.  It should definitely be an easier judgment call to make at 50 cents a gram instead of $1.  But then character and quality level become quite complicated, and it doesn't work to say that lots of range of versions are equivalent, all based on one input.  These teas are better than some of what I've tried represented as gushu from elsewhere, but I can't compare them to the entire range of the best of what is on the market (of course).

I think you need to drill down to more local areas to even discuss what is most type-typical; comparison at the broad region level muddies the discussion.  Then distinct styles could enter in.

It's harder to say if these are clearly better teas than the last two I tried, because aging issues also factor in, and complicate things (and comparing Mang Jing and Jing Mai may not be apples to apples, back to the last point).  This Jing Mai version is really something; I suppose it is probably just better, and you can set aging issues aside.  That Bulang version from 2021, equivalent in age to these, was really in a favorable place.  It was far more fermented; these retained a lot of the earlier character, which in this case was also favorable, since they were fresh, sweet, complex, approachable, and very well balanced.  Since the per-gram pricing was around half of these for that maybe it's a partial victory for that tea, related to value.  

But these teas were so exceptional, for what they are, that to me it doesn't reduce to being that simple.  You really probably can't find experience like this for considerably less.  I'm not completely sold on the gushu theme as something I would need to regularly experience, that extra depth and clarity, but I also can't really discount it as irrelevant.  

Tea Mania also sells "arbor" teas; they carry the other intermediate range that people bring up.  It costs less.  The extra rough edges or slight limit in some intensity range isn't considerable, not a night and day difference, but it is different.  Their Lucky Bee Yiwu line I recommend that people can buy a cake of without tasting a sample; it's that pleasant and consistent, and that good a value, but of course it's not the same as these.

Would these two teas necessarily age better for being gushu (a claim that also comes up, just less so at the current time than a decade ago, back when this was all sorting out more)?  Probably not.  I see that as relating to certain style, to high levels of distinct types of intensity, in general terms to teas expressing more astringency and bitterness when young (new).  

I think that these would go through very favorable intermediate transition stages, when stored in a cooler and dryer place than Malaysia, as we are seeing 3 and 4 years after production now.  But at a guess I don't think it would make sense, to me, to keep these around to re-try them as 15 to 20 year old tea versions.  They're great now, and will continue to express great moderately aged character for a few more years, before they reach that in-between stage.  Stored in a cool and dry enough place they won't be in that in-between range at a decade old yet, when character can make less sense, they'll be preserved, but there may be a trade-off in slowing and stretching out that process.  But that part is idle speculation, not even a guess.

Tea Mania sells 2012 and 2014 Jing Mai gushu versions; someone could check on that aging transition guess, by buying them.  That 2012 version sells as a 357 gram cake for $187; it's not bad for good material tea of that age.  That could work as a tasting set theme.  I looked up what they offer for those and there's only one, here, including varying origins and ages of sheng pu'er (listing for $37 for 56 grams of seven different teas; not bad).

a recent make-up birthday party, really an excuse to eat ice cream cake

2019 Jing Mai and 2021 Bu Lang sheng pu'er

 

I last tried two very different ages of sheng pu'er versions from Legend of Tea, a Malaysian tea vendor who sent these teas for review (many thanks!).  The earlier two teas were pretty good, quite solid, with value standing out even more (a Jing Mai and related area Mang Jing version).  Malaysian storage was an interesting sub-theme, considering if the older version had fermentation-transitioned faster than it might elsewhere (it seemed to).  Those were 2013 and 2022 versions; one part was reviewing a contrast in aging.

So this time I'm trying two more similar age versions.  These are both variations of their flagship tea line, a brand term they use for varying origin teas each year (Xiao Ba Wang).  It can be hard to place themes like quality level, assigning that clearly, and trueness to type for a typical origin character, or storage potential.  Match to preference should be easier; that's just how much you like a tea.

I'll cite the vendor descriptions after doing the tasting notes (the teas were good; I'll add that much spoiler).

2019 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea  (Jing Mai, $41.92 for 200 grams, equivalent to $75 for 357 grams)

The raw material selected by XiaoBaWang in 2019 is HuaZhuLiangZi which from MangJing ShangZhai - JingMai Ancient Tea Estate - LanCang County - XiShuangBanNa. The name “HuaZhu” originated from the wild bamboo that used to strive there. They are low in vigour, covered in moss and lichen. These epiphytic plants hang off the branches, resembling countless tails of a lion, forms an unusual yet stunning scene. The strong relish of wild mountains and the earthy scent unique to moss are marked characteristics of HuaZhu LiangZi. There is a shy floral aroma along with a sip of tea.

The tea liquor of XiaoBaWang 2019 has the strong relish of wild mountains. Its liquor taste sweet with orchid fragrance, rich endoplasmic, reveals its strong aftertaste and "yun" affords a lingering after-taste.

This is a little confusing, the different origin names, which cover different scopes.  In the last related post it came up that Mang Jing can either be considered an area within the Jing Mai region or as an adjacent area, depending on how one is using origin area designations.  It seems like Jing Mai is probably both a "district" of some sort and a "tea mountain," a geographic feature, which is probably nowhere near as distinct and defined as Mt. Fuji (for example).  Here's a reference on Yunnan tea areas, for further reading. 

I'll just continue on with calling this a Jing Mai tea here, but for people familiar with Mang Jing, or who really bought into the distinction in the last review, that might seem odd.  Teas vary a lot based on different inputs, so it's not problematic for me.  That last Mang Jing tea really did seem to have a forest-oriented flavor as one main aspect; I'll have to re-read these notes to see how continuous that was, since I've written notes for the next tea review after these since.

2021 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea (from Bulang, $37.21 for 200 grams, $66.42 for 357 grams)

This year, we have selected BuLang Mountain ecological tea, blended spring tea and autumn tea to increase its taste, aroma and layering. Using "Single Bud & Two Leaves" hand-plucked tea leaves as the raw material as well as retaining the traditional sun-dried and production methods. We persevered in selecting only the best quality raw materials & employ refined production methods as well as craftsmanship that guarantees a delectably mellow for your enjoyment!

When unpacking the xuan paper, you can smell the uniquely rich and sweet aroma of high-quality raw tea, tea liquor is golden like orange, with a clear and bright aroma, the sweet aroma is significant and delicate, rich in taste and connotation, the slight bitterness, which quickly dissipates and turns sweet and full of after strength.

This Bulang version was really something, but it may be that it aged into a really good place at this stage.  The tasting review notes tell that story.

Review:

2019 Jing Mai (Hua Zhu Liang Zi):  of course this is a bit light since I'm in the habit of trying and reviewing the rinse, or first infusion.  Aged notes stand out; this has been enough aging to bring in some of that character.  But it's clean, and there is some sweetness and freshness.  I'll cover the rest next round.

2021 Bu Lang:  there's a nice rich floral range in this, even trying it a bit on the thin side.  Feel is already filling in, and it already hints at complexity.  This should be nice.

2019 Jing Mai #2:  it's interesting how different this is from the 2022 Jing Mai version that I've already reviewed.  Of course I don't know how similar they were prior to aging, but they're in very different places now.  This seems a lot more fermentation transitioned than 6 years often is.  

Warm tones emerge.  Mineral stands out, and some could be floral, but it's more along the lines of a vegetal range, like the scent of a forest.  It's not pine in the sense of brewing fresh needles, but not far off pine forest scent.  Feel is nice, thick and structured.  Sweetness level is good.  It is kind of directly in between fresh / new sheng and an aged version, but it works better as that than they typically do.  It integrates.  Maybe it's that the warmer forest range, sappy feel, and mineral tones all tie together, they make sense together.

Bitterness is present but I hardly notice it, related to the extent it has transitioned away.

[later editing note]:  sometimes it seems like the review notes don't match the product listing at all, but this seems like a set-up, as if I've just written what they said.  Probably that's partly from the earlier Mang Jing version I've already reviewed expressing similar character (a forest sort of scent), making it easier to notice in this.

2021 Bu Lang:    this definitely includes more bitterness, and more of a still-youthful character, but it has surely changed a lot in 4 years.  A different kind of mineral undertone, sappy feel, and woody sort of character makes it similar but quite different.  Feel is thicker, and flavor range is more complex.  That bitterness links to floral range and a pleasant sweetness.  For someone averse to bitterness that could be seen as negative, but for most sheng drinkers that is at a really good level.

What I've just described as wood could be taken in all sorts of ways, and wood isn't the most natural interpretation; that was more about comparing it to the other tea version.  It could taste like varying forms of spice range.  

The sweetness that I see linking to rich floral range could include some dried fruit range, maybe tamarind.  There's a lot going on.  It should soften and change a bit as the rounds evolve, and as early rough edges smooth out.  This isn't harsh though, it's quite approachable, without notable flaws, but it should deepen and mellow over the next couple of rounds.

2019 Jing Mai #3:  not so different than the last round.  The main limitation of this tea might be the character falling in between young and aged.  It works better than usual for this tea version, and it's fine as it is, making plenty of sense, but not everyone would be on this page for preference.  I like it, but then I tend to appreciate what teas offer, across a broad range, as long as they're pleasant, and lack flaws or obvious limitations.

2021 Bu Lang:  the rich floral character in this works well, especially related to how tones are warm, deep, and complex.  The match with bitterness is nice, to me.  Feel is structured, complex, and sappy; that works too.  At a guess--a complete guess, just thinking out loud to help place the experience--this is better now than it would be in two more years, with fresher floral tones still pronounced.  In 5 or 10 more years the character will switch over to something else, and then match to preference would determine if that's better or not.  It makes a lot of sense to me as it is just now though, as a partly aged, still sort of young character tea.

I'm not implying that the aging difference is the main input related to the two of these.  Surely they were different to start, and two years ago the Jing Mai was nothing like this, and in two more this won't be like the Jing Mai version.  But sheng balances differently at different aging levels, making more or less sense, and I do see where this is as more favorable, for what it is.

2019 Jing Mai #4:  at this rate I'm not going to get too far through these; I used too high a proportion, and they're too strong to brew and drink a lot of in a hurry.  Maybe I'll do a flash infusion next round and call it.

Pine transitioned to warmer pine forest tones is nice enough in this.  Intensity is good, and feel and flavor experience coat your tongue, and carry over as aftertaste.  The form of the feel might seem a little dry, not exactly a flaw, but not as thick, rich, and sappy as it could be, for matching with the flavor form.  In the last Jing Mai version review I cited a Steepster review of a vaguely related version (Mang Jing, and adjacent region) in which someone said that Jing Mai and Mang Jing profiles aren't their favorite (one way of reading it).  Preferences naturally vary; that makes sense.

2021 Bu Lang:  I'll cite that comment I referenced, because there's something related to point out in this:

This tea from “greater Jingmai area” is light bodied with a very up-front floral but not perfumy character. I am not a big fan overall...

This Bu Lang version is "perfumy."  I usually reference that in relation to similarity with perfume, and more often as tying to cognac or brandy, that one aromatic range that's not really a flavor, instead a way flavors tend to come across.

This version did "loosen up" nicely, with bitterness and warm floral tones really working together much better than over the first couple of infusions, when it was already pleasant.  I suppose I'll have to conclude that I like it more.  

I don't crave a high level of bitterness to make sheng work, but when it does connect it's nice.  This is far from a high level of bitterness, as new or one year old sheng goes, but over four years that definitely didn't drop out.  I did a second water break to clear my palate before this next round and that bitterness changes to a pronounced sweetness in aftertaste, it seems, almost no matter how much later you'd drink it.

2019 Jing Mai #5:  brewing these for less than 10 seconds you can see by the color they're still strong.  Someday I will learn to drop the brew proportion for a combined tasting; the first few hundred experiences haven't taught me that yet.  You could push the oolongs I've been trying regularly pretty far and they would still be pleasant, and I can drink sheng kind of strong too, but the effect adds up.

This is still nice; forest tones and some floral range work together.  Warm and lighter, greener tones work better together than they usually do.  Comparison with the other tea version doesn't help, for it being sweeter, fuller in feel, and more complex, with lots of pronounced rich floral range.

2021 Bu Lang:  it's still like I've been describing it, not one bit lighter for brewing it fast.  This would probably brew a dozen pleasant infusions, even at a lower proportion.  I think the balance is better for backing off the intensity, even if it's hard to tell the difference just in relation to flavor effect.  Aftertaste intensity is strong enough, but not as far towards overdoing it a little.

People sometimes reference what to eat with teas, generally preferring not to eat between individual infusions for better quality versions, but then more neutral foods preference is often cited, a croissant or something such, or a bean cake to stay within Chinese range.  I just finished some re-hydrated goji berry, which I eat on most days, and the sweet berry flavor was nice as a contrast to this pair of sheng ranges.  There's a bit of saltiness in that, probably standing out more related to the contrast.  

I'm not wearing reading glasses yet, even though I'm 56; maybe there really is something to health claims related to those, and in particular to the zeaxanthin in those goji berries.  Maybe I'm also picking up lutein from a diet high in varying vegetables, which also helps? 

Conclusions:

Most of the comparison and contrast was already there in the notes.  It's interesting how different those were, and how they landed in such different places at 4 and 6 years of aging.  

At this point it's probably as well to let the Jing Mai / Mang Jing version age another 5 or 10 years and see where it's really headed, since the in-between fermentation level probably isn't ideal for it now.  It's still fine to drink, and pleasant, but to me it's too divided between not expressing that much of how it had been earlier and not getting to where it's going for transition yet.

The Bulang tea makes a lot of sense at this stage, it seems to me.  It's at the end of the slightly aged but youthful range, and to me that works really well for it.  It would've been really good within the last couple of years too, more intense, brighter and even more floral, still plenty sweet, just with a bit more bitterness and astringency to balance that.  Brand new it might've been a bit strong.  

It's possible that it's "better" tea, but I'm seeing character and aspect differences coming up as much as that broad-based quality theme.  It seems like a pretty good version of what it is, and the aging input seems to have been favorable for it.  I hate to say that this pricing is too low; who would want to pass that kind of feedback back to a vendor, when they might "correct" for it.  But it kind of is.  A standard Western marketplace vendor, like the main example you are probably thinking of, would probably charge way over $100 for this, maybe more like $150.

Which raises a related question:  where are vendors getting their pricing levels?  Is a tea so good that it slots into a certain range, or is a standard mark-up typically applied?  Per my understanding it's usually the latter.  Market rates for different kinds of teas tend to level off in standard places, so vendors just adding a standard multiplier works out, equating how a tea is with that final price, balanced against demand.

Vendors being able to buy tea for a relatively good price themselves can shift things, and an extra favorable aging input changes things again.  Relatively warmer and more humid storage--Malaysian "natural" storage--can not work out in an ideal way for some tea versions, maybe for more delicate and aromatic teas, but it just matched well with this version.

on a kitten theme at home now

Myra hasn't been so receptive, but she is adjusting

2013 and 2022 Xiao Ba Wang (Mang Jing and Jing Mai) sheng pu'er

 

I'm reviewing another two versions of the Legend of Tea flagship branded sheng pu'er type, this time the 2013 and 2022 years.  The teas are from different origins each year, so the 2013 is from Mang Jing and the 2022 from Jing Mai.  Mang Jing isn't familiar; let's check what Google's AI response thinks that is:

Mangjing Mountain Pu'er refers to Pu'er tea produced in the Mangjing area of Jingmai Mountain, a region known for its ancient tea forests and unique tea varieties. Specifically, the tea trees in Mangjing are a natural hybrid of Assamica, referred to as Mixed-Leaf varietal, which contributes to the tea's sweetness and aroma. Jingmai Mountain as a whole is recognized for its large, well-preserved, and ancient tea forests, with some trees being hundreds or even thousands of years old. 

So it is just a local area in the broader Jing Mai region, according to that source.  Plant types varying some in different areas is a normal, recurring theme, but also one that's hard to place.

It may seem odd trying two very different years like this, and it is.  The idea is to contrast how an aged and relatively unaged version compare, even though differences in the material, related to origin location and other inputs, would be as much of a factor.  Initial general character, aging potential, and how each tea transitions through aging wouldn't be the same.  As luck has it maybe not so different, given the location proximity.

They sent a number of years of samples; somehow I had missed that earlier, writing the first sheng pu'er review post as if I wouldn't try these.  The years are spread out so that I can still do two more comparison posts, that make more sense, of closer year spans, of two other versions from consecutive years.  And from different origin areas, so it will be about discussing differences as much as similarities.  And quality, and aging potential, and I suppose guesses about the storage environment.

About "dry storage:"  In talking to the vendor again after the last post "dry storage," referenced in a product description, is used in a sense natural storage often is for Hong Kong environment descriptions.  It's unadjusted, related to the natural climate, instead of being held at a high humidity level to speed up fermentation transition.  Of course very local micro-climate varies everywhere, even in different parts of a city, but in general lots of Malaysia is pretty hot and humid, as Thailand is, to a less extent even in the "mountain" areas in the North.  By that I mean that the annual low in Bangkok is in the low 20s C, around 70 F, but 25 C / 75 F is a more standard low temperature, and it's in the 30s most of the time (90s F).

The Legend of Tea vendor listings and descriptions:

2013 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea ($70 for a 200 gram cake, equivalent to $125 for 357 grams)

MangJing mountain ecological tea has the best aroma, which is similar to the ancient tree tea. The aroma is mellow and last long, the serrated edges of tea are not obvious, and the tea buds are slightly thin. Due to good ecological conditions, the MangJing mountain tea comes with a strong orchid fragrance is the best raw material for the processing of puer tea.

2022 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea ($34.80 for a 200 gram cake, equivalent to $62.12 for 357 grams)

This year's Xiao Ba Wang is made from ecological spring tea from JingMai Mountain, and the most important feature of this year's Xiao Ba Wang is "sweetness"! What is different from the usual "sweetness" is that the sweetness of JingMai tea comes directly and quickly!

The sweetness of JingMai tea comes out when you pour down the hot water! The aroma of this tea is orchid fragrance, and the taste is fresh, sweet, and smooth, you can feel the sweet aroma of this tea enveloping the whole mouth and tongue. The tea broth is fine and smooth with a full and mellow taste.

I checked another source to hear more input on Mang Jing, since AI content is unreliable, and the part about natural growth and thousands of year old trees wasn't promising:

Spring 2019 Mangjing (a Farmerleaf listing)

Ai Leng Ancient Garden, Mangjing Village, Jingmai Mountain

In the heat of the Spring season, we visited our friend Ai Gong. He lives in Mangjing, a mountain adjacent to Jingmai, 10km away from our village. The altitude is 200m lower than our mountain, it peaks at 1400m. It is populated by the Bulang minority, unlike Jingmai, which is Dai...

The leaves in Mangjing are smaller than the ones that grow in Jingmai, the varietal is probably slightly different, despite the close distance between our respective mountains...  The tea shares a common character with our jingmai gulan, but it has a different fragrance, more minerality (probably due to the higher amount of old trees in the gardens) and a somewhat more aggressive profile. Jingmai and Mangjing are like two brothers with different personalities.  You will get your money's worth with this tea.

Their site doesn't show the price, but Google's site listing thumbnail entry says that it was $128, which is probably right.  What does that mean, that a $128 cake is "good value?"  It's a coincidence that Farmerleaf sold that as a new version at the same price Legends of Tea is selling theirs as an aged one, 12 years later.  But it's different material, for sure; you can't say all tea from an origin area is the same, and when a local area vendor describes a version as exceptional for that area it's promising.

In trying to confirm that price I looked up a Steepster review, by Togo, from back then, reviewed in 2020 (which never did list the price, but it adds one detailed take on that 2019 tea):

This tea from “greater Jingmai area” is light bodied with a very up-front floral but not perfumy character. I am not a big fan overall, but I do like its creeping, grounding cha qi that induces a great mind-clarity.

In the aroma, there are notes of light smoke, citrus zest, beef and focaccia. Taste is sweet and flowery with a milk note initially. Soon enough, a nice bitterness appears that has a tart and nutty backbone. The finish is buttery and the aftertaste vegetal, cooling and sweet with notes of olives and peach. Later on in the session there is also a hint of an interesting black pepper like taste and a more woody character overall. All in all, there is complexity, but I didn’t find the profile to be particularly enjoyable. The tea also doesn’t really last beyond 200 ml/g worth of infusions.

Flavors: Bitter, Black Pepper, Bread, Butter, Citrus Zest, Floral, Flowers, Meat, Milk, Nutty, Olives, Smoke, Sweet, Tart, Vegetal, Wood

Maybe not completely relevant, but interesting to consider.  It's also interesting how bitterness kind of drops out as an assumed background condition in sheng reviews (in the flavor list here, but not covered in the write-up).  You might comment on the level being low or high, but that's just how one year old sheng goes, it includes that.

Review:

(2013 Mang Jing left in all photos)

2013, Mang Jing origin:  it would be conventional to use a rinse for aged sheng but I didn't.  Flavor isn't pronounced in this; it's normal for sheng to need a round to open up, hence the conventional use of a rinse.  It's still interesting to me getting an initial sense of the tea, even if it doesn't get far.  Flavors are clean and warm in tone.  It should be nice once it gets going.

2022, Jing Mai origin:  more comes across in this, but I still might save more of a breakdown to the next round.  Of course the tones are much lighter, and include some bitterness, not showing up yet in the other.

2013 Mang Jing, #2:  it's interesting how far this aging has progressed in a dozen years, pretty far along.  Warm tones are mostly along the line of aged wood, towards a medicinal herb flavor, not so far off an incense herb range.  Root spice like ginseng also works as a description.  The effect is quite clean; there is no mustiness of off flavor range.  Intensity is pretty good.  Feel has a nice structure, including just a bit of dryness.  It seems like this will keep evolving over the next couple of rounds though, as if it's not to where it's going to be yet.

2022 Jing Mai:  again a much younger sheng range, not including overpowering bitterness, but that's still a significant input.  The flavor is a bit fresh, but already leaning towards warmer tones, including some of that.  One vegetal input is a bit towards pine, a normal flavor aspect in Jing Mai tea, but it's as close to green wood in this version, at this stage.  Floral tones don't really stand out, but there may be some of that filling in background, connecting with sweetness.  Intensity is good; overall balance is good.

2013, #3:  a pleasant spice-range sort of herbal note emerges.  It had tasted like medicinal herb before, but this is a bit towards sassafras.  Feel is nice, with some fullness and structure, but it's not challenging.  Aftertaste experience is nice; it really carries over.  

This isn't all the way through aging transition, of course, but it's not falling short enough that you tend to speculate about when it will be better to drink.  It's ok now, it's just going to keep changing.  To the extent this includes wood tones those tones are warming, a bit towards a cinnamon spice range, but it doesn't taste like cinnamon, it's just a comparison.  So like aged tree bark?  I guess that works.

2022:  the bitterness and astringency level in this is in a nice place.  Those inputs tend to soften but not drop out over the first few years, and brighter and fresher flavors start to change, but sheng pu'er versions are still young at 3 years into aging.  This probably is at a level comparable to 5 or 6 years into Kunming aging; in some cases sheng stored cool and dry can not change all that much in the first 8 to 10 years.  Intensity is good, and sweetness level is nice in support of the rest.  Feel is fine, and intensity carries over into aftertaste.  It's a nice tea, at a nice place in transitioning.

So far I've avoided extending aspect notes into conclusions in any way.  This is nice, but how good?  What is the quality level?  Is the other a great example of a 12 year old sheng, beyond flavors and other aspects being a particular way in any given case?  I'll try to add some thoughts on that over later rounds.  It's not an easy judgement call to make.  These lack flaws; that's a good starting point, that makes them at least average.  And then I think they're at least a little better than that.  

Judgments within the narrower range of the higher end is always more difficult.  Maybe I've never tried the best of the best of what comes out of Jing Mai?  I've tried a good number of versions from that broad origin, including quite a few from Farmerleaf, that other vendor mentioned in a citation, but Mang Jing isn't familiar at all.  A simple count of teas you like or don't like doesn't mean much; someone could accidentally try below average quality tea versions over and over, especially if their main filter related to trying the lowest cost versions.  Or preference for aspects varies, a different thing than a quality assessment.

2013 #4:  similar flavors as I've described.  The balance gets better and better as it goes, the way those come together, and the way that root spice / driftwood scent sort of range emerges.  The feel is nice in an interesting and difficult to describe way.  There are no heavier tones one might associate with more humid storage, but then that also must depend on the starting point input.  For the tea being this subtle and balanced it didn't start out as harsh, complex, and intense as factory teas are.  But it's also far from fading away; the balance it strikes in the middle is a good one.

I've been re-trying a Jing Mai version from in between these years, maybe 2019 or so, that was an autumn harvest version, and the intensity is mostly gone now (not from Farmerleaf, but it seems the source doesn't matter related to making this point).  The tea is fading to include some warm depth and that's about it.  That's still ok for an experience, but this tea expressing more interesting flavors, complexity, and feel is much better.  

That tea was on the inexpensive side, and not that intense to begin with, so I'm not really upset that aging it isn't working out.  I had bought two cakes and drank one new, so I've had the earlier part of the experience, the one I consider more positive.  Now it will work well as a tea to have with breakfast, when I feel like something subtle, or I could keep most for another half dozen years and keep trying it when it's really faded (with more comment to follow on whether or not a temporary lapse in intensity could relate to a "teen years" in between transitions state.

2022:  pronounced bitterness really stands out in comparing these two.  But in comparison with young sheng versions, and not even challenging ones, this isn't all that bitter.  It's a main component, and intensity is pretty good, but that's still moderate, since a lot of 3 year old sheng might not be all that approachable yet.  

I think quality is pretty good for these.  I'm never going to be able to be as clear as I might be on that, putting it on a scale of 1 to 10, or comparing it to known benchmark versions.  I'm not sure what "boutique style" teas are ever used as benchmarks.  I guess an individual could be familiar with whatever they drink a lot of, and their own comparison could tie back to that, something from one of the main Western vendors, for a Western tea drinker (from Yunnan Sourcing, Farmerleaf, White2Tea, etc.).  The older form of Yunnan Sourcing Impressions series seemed designed to fall in between categories, described as an alternative to something like blended Dayi / Taetea 7542 versions, but really the style for those was never all that similar.

Related to how this might be better some pine and green wood isn't bad but swapping in a bit of somewhat warm and transitioned floral range might be nice.  The brightness and sweetness might relate to a citrus tone, but it's subdued and integrated enough that this comparison or interpretation might not come to mind.  But at least that complexity works, letting the flavor balance, as the feel, intensity, and aftertaste aspects all kind of work out well together.  

This may only be "pretty good" level tea, versus something amazing, but ranking well in relation to what I've tried from other vendors is a nice level to achieve.  Given the moderate pricing I referenced in the last review it's punching way above its weight class [editing note:  I hadn't included the price or listing citation content yet, but this being equivalent in price to a $62 357 gram cake is on the low side, sold as a 200 gram version instead].

2013 Mang Jing, #5:  a bit more old book flavor joins that pronounced root spice and driftwood range.  This is improving across rounds, a good sign.  At 12 years old this drinks a lot like an aged sheng; hot and humid storage conditions can lead to that kind of result faster.  You can tell it's not quite to the level of 20 to 25 years of aging input, but this would be comparable to 20 years of cooler and drier storage, just as it is, except that the effect varies slightly, it's not about fermentation input all being one uniform kind of change.  This has fantastic potential to age to be a bit smoother, mellower, with deeper flavors, within the next 3 to 4 years.  Intensity is still there to support more transition.

It's on to guessing but in another decade this might move on to fading some instead.  The most powerful teas tend to not fall into a pleasant, more aged form balance as fast as this has, in "only" 12 years.  But intensity is good now; there is still lots to appreciate.  And it's past the awkward stage where aged flavors and character is evenly balanced with newer / younger range inputs, when teas just don't make sense.  

There's talk in pu'er circles about a tea not tasting like much at one aging transition level, then with intensity and warmer and more age-related flavors filling intensity back in.  To some extent that must happen, as such a broadly discussed and expected theme, but in my experience the opposite is more common.  You can still taste and feel plenty, all across the aging transition, it just doesn't make sense, or isn't pleasant, right in between young and truly aged forms.

2022 Jing Mai:  this is clearly a slightly age-transitioned but still young sheng, just as it should be.  This is a pretty good aging range for drinking this tea.  It would've been ok quite young, if someone was ok with the higher level of astringency and bitterness.  Which is still often moderate for Jing Mai origin teas, compared to something from Menghai areas.  Or is that wrong?  As I tend to perhaps over-repeat I'm not a great reference for mapping typical sheng aspect range to origin locations.

It complicates things that low elevation grown, monoculture produced, somewhat chopped material, high fertilizer input tea is much more harsh, and if you get in the habit of drinking that from one region and versions of the opposite background from another then you'll mix up the inputs, and over-emphasize origin related themes that are really tied to different causal inputs.  To some extent I must be doing that, in ways that I can't sort back out.  And referencing broad production areas never really works well; generalities can come up, but teas also vary a lot.

Earlier in the social media history of tea drinking people in tea groups would debate these points.  It was a great input for comparing your own limited experience range to others'.  That has quieted down quite a bit (for example, Steepster is pretty much finished as a discussion and review site, per my understanding).  

I think that's because the wave of tea enthusiasts from before my time, from the 2000s, had already went quiet when I started exploring and writing a dozen or so years ago, and that next "class" I discussed themes with has also dropped out talking about it.  Now 20 to 25 year-olds discuss tea experiences in Discord servers, which is fine, since it's an effective channel for that.  But for us "old-timers" the chat thread format is unfamiliar, or not as functional, since instead of individual discussions being saved for later review you have the current history of 15 or so main themes available.  You can't really scroll back to see what was covered over the last year, never mind a few years, since it's too much volume, with lots of small-talk mixed in between interesting theme-related discussions.  

That's already plenty of tangent on that.  I'll leave off taking notes here, even though a few more changes will turn up.

Final conclusions:

I've already concluded plenty, so I'll keep this short.  To me these are really good teas for being sold at moderate prices.  I can't really place them in the standard levels related to other Western outlet sources, if they might represent $80 to 90 cakes, or the $120 to 140 range (and $60 to 70 cakes are mostly a thing of the past, in those main sales channels, related to this higher end boutique style of teas, at the risk of using that categorization term a bit more broadly than some do).  

A market outlet like Yunnan Sourcing would sell plenty of older sheng, from 9 years back, or older, but you might need to compare this 2013 version to pre-2010 versions stored in Kunming, related to demonstrating a similar fermentation transition level.  I haven't drank through a mountain of related samples of those from them to place them.

These teas are surely amazing for the moderate pricing level; I'm not afraid to draw that conclusion.  For people open to spending $200 or more on a cake, who have tried many times over what I have of aged sheng range, maybe they would seem to fall short of expectations.  

The Jing Mai character was nice, but you can find interesting variations of very pleasant teas from that area, and in general pricing is lower than the higher demand areas (with $62 representing a relative rock bottom for tea pricing in this type category).  The Mang Jing character was also nice, representing a pleasant aged-tea range, and novel character, but aged sheng is a broad subject, open to lots of varying interpretation about most positive aspect ranges.  Maybe someone could critique it for being a bit approachable or even lacking intensity at this age / place, thinking that if it was still a little more challenging it might land on an even more positive final result in another half dozen years.

To me all of that might be splitting hairs; these are good teas, interesting and pleasant.  Value is all but off the normal scale, delivering more experience for less cost than it's almost possible to find in standard Western outlets, potentially with limited exceptions.  The last 2025 Farmerleaf Jing Mai Miyun I tried, their take on an inexpensive blend, was really good, for what it was, and that now lists at $45 for a 357 gram cake.  Producers using blending to offset limitations in different input lots is another tangent I'll skip saying more about here, but results can be good for that, just not the same as narrow-origin source material, trading out some distinctiveness for good balance and complexity.