Sun Yunshan describes Wanmu Tea Garden and Xinyang tea culture

 

I've been hoping to tell more of the story of Wanmu Tea Garden, a Xinyang, Henan tea grower and producer (factory).  This is a better form of that than I could've hoped for, input that's mostly from the main founder, Sun Yunshan.  It describes their approach to tea, what is produced locally there, and hints towards some parts of Chinese perspective on tea.  As a tea enthusiast I'm very grateful to have access to this.

I've been talking about trying their teas, a little, and have one more black tea to try and review, which is likely to be exceptional, an award winning version.  I've already reviewed exceptional yellow teas from them, and novel Dong Fang Mei Ren oolong versions, which are an interesting and pleasant local interpretation of that style (here and here).  But here as an introduction I only want to frame some of my own perspective towards Chinese tea culture, and to a limited extent Chinese culture in general.  

Often somewhat trivial forms or depictions of Chinese tea culture come across, when Western vendors or enthusiasts describe their own limited contact, or sales oriented spin.  It ends up relating to aesthetics, or an appreciation of ceremony, maybe venturing into animistic spiritualism, although I come in contact with a lot more of that within Thai culture, to be honest.  That's a story for another day.  I think there is great potential value in recognizing, appreciating, and communicating with spiritual forces that you may not literally believe in, even if those only represent foundational dimensions of yourself in the end.

I experience a very pragmatic and limited form of tea culture.  It's about the tea.  But at the same time I have a deep appreciation for people holding different worldviews, and valuing different experiences, and for Chinese culture in particular.  

I've been to China several times, and have been friends with a number of Chinese people.  Some were fellow parents of my children's classmates, some work contacts, and of course some favorites have related to tea themes, especially one favorite producer who I've discussed so many times here.  Two local Chinese - Thai Bangkok Chinatown shop owners are like an aunt and uncle to me.  I've been through plenty of discussion of Chinese culture, and varying perspective issues.  

It's a little sad that a narrow, negative stereotype informs misguided bias within some Americans' perspective on China, but this is normal.  Everything I thought that I knew about Russians went out the window when I visited Russia, and met Russian friends, replaced by a more complex impression of typical positive and negative character traits.  People really vary as individuals wherever you go, and culture only shapes parts of the form of their worldview, and informs their experiences.

I have no difficulty at all in setting aside potentially problematic conflicts in terms of national interest, or the more problematic sides of government character.  Being from the US I need to be able to make this separation, in order to appreciate and embrace my own traditional culture, and national character.  The Republicans and Democrats don't represent my own culture at all, to me.  The perspectives, lifestyle patterns, social roles, and hopes and dreams of Americans do, of course including immigrants, since the US is a nation of immigrants.

So related to tea culture I can easily appreciate that thousands of years of history have went into developing the complex, nuanced, and very deep experience of many types of Chinese tea, coupled with a history of brewing and serving tea.  This includes a perspective on how healthy the drink must be, its role in daily life experience, and aesthetic or meditational experiences, or however one takes it.  

At the same time it's really about soaking dried leaves in hot water, and enjoying the resulting unique beverage, often tied to social contact.  That contrast between a simple yet also complex and profound experience is the foundation for Chinese tea culture, as I see it.  And as a tea enthusiast we join in this simply by trying the tea, only partly informed by whatever cultural contact we also experience.  Even if that tea is from Thailand, Vietnam, India, or elsewhere; these are connected experiences.

Considered in that light Mr. Sun Yunshan is sharing very deep, personal, and also simple experiences with us, especially his perspective on them.  Again I am very grateful for this.

my point of contact there, Gisele, from Thailand, now living in China

Interview with Wanmu Tea Garden (Wanmu Tea Industry Development Co., Ltd.)

1. Can you describe the background of your tea company?

Chinese: 你能介绍一下你们茶企的背景吗？

Our company is called Shangcheng Wanmu Tea Garden Tea Industry Development Co., Ltd. It is a privately owned enterprise invested by an individual. The company mainly focuses on solving the production, processing, and sales needs of tea grown within the 11,000-mu tea garden area of our administrative village.

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2. Your founder [the main source for this content] has been described to me as an authority on tea and a local community leader. Can you expand on these roles?

Chinese: 有人形容你们的创始人是一位茶叶专家，也是当地的社区领袖。你能进一步介绍这些角色吗？

Our founder, Mr. Sun Yunshan, is an inheritor of local tea-making techniques and a contributor to drafting several technical standards (for example, Xinyang White Tea – 2024). However, he does not consider himself a “tea expert.” He is deeply attached to his homeland, loves tea, enjoys research and exploration, and is enthusiastic about helping others. He is a young man with ambition and vision.

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3. To what extent does your production company also function as a tea cooperative—beyond purchasing and processing materials, and including other forms of cooperation with local farmers?

Chinese: 你们的生产企业在多大程度上承担着“茶叶合作社”的角色？

Our company has a certain scale and influence in the local area and is the only large-scale enterprise in our administrative village. We voluntarily take on the responsibility of ensuring stable purchasing, processing, and income growth for local tea farmers. Since our establishment, we have purchased fresh leaves without limit, continuously expanded production capacity, and extended the production period so that tea farmers can earn more income. We also undertake ecological pest control, ecological tea garden construction, maintenance of the certified Green Food production base, and offer free technical training to farmers.

4. To what extent did government economic or agricultural support contribute to founding or expanding your company into tea production?

Chinese: 政府在经济或农业发展方面的支持，对你们企业的创立或扩展起到了多大作用？

The government provides certain construction-related programs, generally in the form of proportional subsidies. However, the subsidy ratio is relatively low, the procedures are complicated, and they require early planning, which often does not align with the company’s own development plans. At present, we receive only minimal subsidies.

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5. What are the main local types of tea produced in your area (Xinyang, Henan)?

Chinese: 你们所在地主要生产哪些本地茶类？

In Xinyang City and Shangcheng County, traditional green tea is the primary product. Over the past decade, black tea production has been steadily developed and improved. In recent years, white tea has also grown rapidly and is currently undergoing further transformation.

yellow teas from them, reviewed here

6. I’ve tried Dong Fang Mei Ren and yellow tea from your company. What motivates you to experiment with teas from other regions or historical tea types?

Chinese: 你们尝试其他产区或历史茶类的动力是什么？

Our company has expanded from producing only green tea to producing all six major categories of Chinese tea: green, black, white, oolong, yellow, and dark tea. Over ten years ago, we realized that green tea alone had a relatively narrow consumer base and was more difficult to store. Based on market demand, we began developing black tea, white tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, and dark tea. Last year, we also incorporated tea tree flowers, honeysuckle, mulberry leaf tea, and wild chrysanthemum into our product line.

By adjusting the production structure, expanding product categories, and extending the production cycle, we aim to explore more potential from our local ecological advantages and high-quality fresh leaves. Extending production from the traditional spring-only season to all four seasons not only diversifies products but also reduces inventory pressure and increases farmers’ income year-round, motivating them to better maintain their tea gardens.

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7. How does your “Green Food” certification compare with international organic testing and certification standards?

Chinese: 你们的“绿色标识”认证与国际有机标准相比，有哪些异同？

The Green Food label is certified by the China Green Food Development Center. It is similar to international organic testing standards, though some testing values differ. Over the past five years, teas produced in our Green Food certified base have been tested by multiple domestic institutions, and the results consistently show: no detectable pesticide residues and no excess heavy metals.

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8. To what extent do these developments reflect national trends across China—such as increased production capacity, government support, and cross-regional or hybrid tea styles?

Chinese: 这些发展在多大程度上反映了中国茶行业的普遍趋势？

China’s tea production capacity continues to increase steadily and is relatively oversupplied. Adjusting the industry structure and expanding product categories helps small enterprises survive and also eases sales pressure. For example, black tea, white tea, oolong tea, and dark tea have longer storage periods. In particular, white tea and dark tea improve in flavor with aging and have certain collectible value. Storing tea among the general population helps balance variations in annual production and changing market demand, reducing the risk of extreme shortages.

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9. Is the tea industry continually evolving?

Chinese: 茶产业是否在持续演变？

There will always be new research and innovation in the tea industry. However, tea is a culturally rooted product, and as the saying goes, “everything changes, but the fundamentals remain.” Therefore, the six major tea categories and traditional tea-drinking practices will not change drastically. The rise of new-style tea beverages mainly serves to expand usage scenarios and attract more consumers; it does not significantly affect traditional tea culture.

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10. How is awareness of and demand for tea changing among Chinese consumers?

Chinese: 中国消费者对茶的认知与需求正在发生怎样的变化？

With improved living standards and economic conditions, the number of tea drinkers in China is increasing. People who previously did not drink tea have begun to drink tea or tea-based beverages. Consumers who used to drink tea without caring about quality are now exploring more varieties and seeking higher-quality teas—and this trend will continue.

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11. Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) concepts are not widely understood in the West. How are these ideas perceived and applied within modern mainstream Chinese culture?

Chinese: 在现代中国主流文化中，中医理念是如何被接受和应用的？

Although Western and Chinese cultures clashed during China’s reform and opening-up period, this did not diminish people’s confidence in the TCM principle of pattern-based diagnosis. In recent years, TCM-based wellness practices and medicinal-food therapies have modernized traditional consumption methods to better align with contemporary lifestyles. Many people now use medicinal-food-homology herbs as daily tea beverages. For example, the honeysuckle tea, mulberry leaf tea, and wild chrysanthemum tea produced by our company are all TCM herbs. As people deepen their understanding of TCM concepts, many can determine their own physical conditions and use common herbs for maintenance and health regulation.

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12. Does this extend beyond seasonal tea drinking—for example, choosing teas according to physical conditions such as tiredness or illness?

Chinese: 是否也包括根据身体状况调整饮茶选择？

According to TCM theories, people can easily identify changes in their physical state. For instance:

• When internal heat is high, they drink green tea, yellow tea, or white tea.

• When the body is cold, they drink black tea, dark tea, or oolong.

They also adjust tea choices based on the time of day—green tea in the morning for alertness, white tea in the afternoon for calmness. Moreover:

• Spring: green or yellow tea

• Summer: white tea or oolong

• Autumn & winter: black tea or dark tea

Closing thoughts

It was interesting how the ideas transitioned from local producer background, on to broader Chinese production issues and cultural trends, then to practical daily tea drinking practices.  I think that last section will resonate with a lot of American tea enthusiasts.

Tea Mania Meishan and Lishan dark roast oolongs

Meishan left, Lishan right, in all photos

I'm reviewing two more versions of Taiwanese oolong from Tea Mania, from a set of samples provided for review (many thanks!).  As much just shared to try them, since I know that owner, but reviewing tea is what bloggers do.

These teas were exceptional.  That can mean different things; in some cases it's about a tea really matching a great version of a well-established type, or in others one can be quite novel.  These seem like one of each, with one a bit different than I've tried much of before, although the more-roasted, light style Lishan version also isn't exactly standard.  You don't see that balance of significant roast input and a lighter starting point (not very oxidized) that works this well.  But the Meishan version is really something else.  Maybe related to age?  It's from 2012, while the other is from 2019 (well settled, but the other seemed to pick up age related notes, that plum and extra depth).

I'll cite the vendor description and move on to review notes:

Meishan Dark Roast  (2019; $22.50 for 50 grams)

This Qingxin from Meishan is a well-oxidised oolong tea in the traditional style, expertly crafted by a renowned tea master in spring 2012. A true rarity among today’s Formosa oolongs, it features a distinctive dark roast that enhances its complexity. Grown at an altitude of 1100 meters in Meishan, the tea develops an abundance of deep aromatics characterized by floral and warming nuances reminiscent of Dongding tea, yet distinguished by a richer aroma and more intense flavor due to its high-altitude origin. The infusion presents a warm, robust yellow hue, free from bitterness even after prolonged steeping. Its fragrance is notably floral, with elegant notes of osmanthus and blossom honey. The lasting aftertaste invites contemplative enjoyment, revealing the tea’s intricate layers in each subsequent sip.

Thanks to its traditional oxidation and dark roasting, this Qingxin oolong uniquely preserves the cultivar’s inherent characteristics while imparting a rich, distinctive depth. The traditional craftsmanship ensures excellent storability, allowing its aroma to evolve gracefully over time, acquiring an enchanting maturity with age.

Harvest date: Spring 2012

Aroma: notes of honey, floral and toasty

Oxidation: approx. 50%

Roasting: strong

Cultivar: Qingxin

Terroir: Meishan, Chiayi, Taiwan

In writing review notes I was curious about pricing for this, since it really is so exceptional that it would be hard to identify a standard level for that.  At nearly 50 cents a gram this still seems like a steal to me.  You would typically have to use less mainstream curator sourcing to find teas like this.  Tea Mania only sells pretty good teas, so I guess those vendor types tend to not be completely distinct.

Lishan Dark Roast  (2019; $31.22 for 50 grams)

Lishan Dark Roast is a medium-oxidized, medium-strong roasted highland tea from Lishan using tea leaves of the Qingxin cultivar. Qingxin means green heart. It is the cultivar with the longest history of cultivation in Taiwan, the most popular among tea farmers and tea drinkers alike, and by far the most widely cultivated. When people talk about Oolong in Taiwan, they usually refer to it as “Qingxin-Oolong”. It is the same cultivar from which the traditional, genuine Dongding is made...

Lishan Dark Roast is a medium-oxidized, traditionally processed highland tea from Lishan. Due to the medium oxidation, the tea has a honey-like yet flowery aroma, which is complemented by the stronger body and more intensive taste experience typical of Oolong tea. The leaves are processed traditionally, resulting in red edges. The reverberation in the mouth is still clearly perceptible even over a longer period of time and it is a pleasure to trace the character of the tea in meditative silence and to fathom its complex character more and more.

Lishan Dark Roast is medium-strong roasted, which adds layers of flavor including warm, nutty notes, hints of caramel, and roasted barley. But, the character of highland teas is still clearly visible. Due to the traditional processing, it can be stored without any problems and without losing its aroma. With increasing age, the aroma changes and develops its very own charm.

Harvest time: spring 2019

Aroma: floral, with notes of honey, nuts and caramel

Oxidation: approx. 40%

Roasting: medium-strong

Cultivar: Qingxin

Terroir: Lishan, Nantou, Taiwan

This is priced a little higher than the other.  Preference is what determines how much someone connects with each tea, and I've always loved a bit more oxidation balance in well-roasted oolongs.  But that other version is really something; all those layers of richer, deeper flavors, maybe related to it aging for an extra 7 years.  

This second tea is well balanced, and quality is evident, so it's also good.  And around 60 cents a gram is probably pretty standard for way better than average quality, distinctive Lishan oolong.  Maybe even still a good value, but that first version is really unique.

Review:

Meishan #1:  this brews a lot darker than the other; that's interesting.  I may or may not be able to guess why.  This is going to be too light to get much of a sense of.  I let it go a lot longer than the 15 second or so typical infusion time, maybe double that, but it wasn't enough to open the rolled form.  The first impression is good; this tastes like dark caramel, with a good bit of complex range beyond that.  Maybe plum?  As a 2012 tea, 13 years old, that aged effect could be present.  A little spice range shows up beyond that.

Lishan:  even light this is really creamy and pleasant.  Feel is creamy, and taste is sweet, and not unlike cream.  It might include a much lighter caramel note.  These are going to be pretty good.  If the other version, the first one, is as good as it initially seems it would be hard to set a fair market price for it.  Aged oolong is expensive, and it's most often what seemed to be left behind somewhere, forgotten about, but this initially seems to be something else, a truly exceptional version.

Meishan #2:  it's very unique; good luck having a vaguely comparable experience to this tea through any other version.  I'm not saying that it's that much better than a lot of other range, but this just doesn't come up, per what I've experienced.  Or maybe it often does, and I've been focusing on sheng pu'er for so long that I've missed a lot of range that's out there.

A set of complementary flavors balance against each other; there is no one or two dominant aspects.  One part is plum, but it's integrated with the rest.  Another is dark caramel, and that stands out more than most of the rest.  Beyond that a warm, sweet, earthy range tastes a bit like a light roasted coffee to me.  Or spice, or maybe it's that both are present.  A heavy, mineral intensive flavor could resemble aged leather.  In the wrong context that wouldn't be as pleasant, but in this it balances well with the rest.

Feel is really rich too.  It's clean in effect, with a good sweetness level.  Aftertaste experience adds complexity.  It's like a checklist of what can go well in tea.  There's even a cognac like aromatic layer that seems to only show up in really high quality tea versions, within a certain range of types, not so uncommon in exceptional Wuyi Yancha versions.  I suppose if someone was looking for flaws a touch of sourness might be interpreted as such.  But to me it integrates well with the spice layer, as a flavor that makes sense along with that, and it's likely to drop out quickly.

Lishan:  of course this comes across as simpler, but it holds its own reasonable well for also being a solid tea, and for expressing different character.  The roast level works well for this, perhaps a bit lighter than for the other, or maybe it's that aging effect warms the tone of the other.  This is a 2019 version so it has had time to settle.  Floral range stands out more, and creaminess.  The creamy flavor, and to some extent feel, are more balanced by other range, with the rest stronger.  Feel has good fullness and richness.  

I suppose to some extent it suffers in comparison with the other, because that other complexity is really something, so many layers standing out at the same time, along with novel and exceptional flavor range.  This is more what you would expect from a well-balanced, good quality, high roast level Taiwanese oolong.  Floral range isn't as bright and light as in light versions, but it's not completely unlike that.  Mineral depth is there; that's a typical positive balancing aspect.

Meishan #3:  I'm brewing these between 15 and 20 seconds.  They would work well brewed faster or slower; the character would just balance differently.  Intensity is fine for using 10 second timing instead, and nothing negative would probably stand out brewed for half a minute.  I just don't prefer them either of those ways.

Creaminess seems to pick up; interesting.  Dark caramel had probably shifted to a medium caramel last round, and this is lighter, more like butterscotch.  There is an awful lot going on beyond that, but it seems to integrate to a complex background range at this stage.  You get a sense of depth.  If it had included sourness last round, which would've been a judgment call, you can't detect that now.  

Lishan:  this evolves to come across as more complex, and warmer in tone.  It's interesting how they're transitioning in two completely different ways.  In a limited sense it's more like the other, but they're still kind of different.  It still resembles the typical floral range of Taiwanese oolong more, but the warm tones are something else.  Producers can set a roast level wherever they like, but this probably needed those extra years to settle to be this exceptional.  Roasting it this much might seem like a gamble, and my guess is that it's paying off more now than it would have within the first year or two.

Peter, the Tea Mania owner, has mentioned that it's hard to try oolong versions and get a clear sense of what is going to be exceptional years later.  They settle in ways that are hard to predict.  All of this is what I don't experience enough of to get a sense of it, since I drank a lot more oolongs of different types prior to switching mostly to sheng, maybe 6 or 8 years ago.  Even then I drank more Wuyi Yancha.  Even if I had been drinking more Taiwanese oolongs regularly my tea budget wouldn't have supported trying many teas of this quality level.  In the same way the highest end range of sheng pu'er has only been available through trying samples, I guess, and mostly some that are sent for review.

direct sunlight threw off coloration; the two were more balanced in color this round

Meishan #4:  not so different than last round.  It's creamy and warm, with good depth, a nice mineral base, caramel range (or butterscotch; it's a judgment call), and probably some spice beyond that.  People could interpret it differently.  It could taste like cacao to some, or warm floral range instead.  When flavors are this complex what you get is kind of an interpretation.  Seeing one part as a warm wood tone might make sense, or leather, which seemed to match better in an early round, or maybe even cinnamon.  To me it's closer to cinnamon than those others.  It's really clean for including some of that earthier range.

Lishan:  also not transitioning as much as before, settling into a nice character.  It's nice experiencing that typical floral and mineral base range in a completely different form like this.  I was worried that these might be a little like Tie Guan Yin versions that are really light, that are re-roasted to restore deadened flavor effect.  Of course they're better tea than that, made more intentionally, but the higher roast and lower oxidation level inputs taken together can be a little off-putting.  This isn't like that.  I suppose if someone hated the high roast effect (probably medium-high; high roast implies a tea is all but charred, and this isn't), combined with brighter oolong floral range, then maybe it isn't so good, but I think most tea drinkers could relate positively to this.  

The other tea is something else again though.  It's not just a better version of a style that I've tried before, it's something relatively new to me.  I've tried some aged oolongs, maybe a half dozen versions (in rolled style, this Taiwanese range; twisted style range is something else), but nothing that balances in this sort of way.  That reminds me; I bought a decent amount of a 1992 version that I liked, that I haven't retried in a number of years; eventually I should check in on that.

I'll leave off here, since the story seems to be mostly told.  It's a busy errand day, since I leave to go back to Honolulu in less than a week, and I'm still working through cats being sick.  I might go visit them at the vet today, where they stay, even though I was there yesterday, since it will be a busy week, and I may not see much of them. 

I visited the cats that day, and once more a day or two later, and they're back to normal, quite lively.

Lincang and Fengqing (Yunnan) material Fu zhuan

 

I'm reviewing two exceptional Fu zhuan (hei cha) versions made from Yunnan Assamica material, from the Lincang and Fengqing areas.

This is an unusual theme, re-trying versions of tea I reviewed over a year ago (sent by Oriental Leaf for review; many thanks!).  I think vendors have sent the same samples more than once before; it could be hard for them to keep track, as I have to look up what I've tried in the past.  It should be interesting though, because I've been trying more Fu zhuan style hei cha recently, and quite a bit of Liu Bao over the last few months.  I should be more dialed in to that range.

Part of the point here is to compare the style to the other Fu hei cha processed versions I've been reviewing, with two of those based on white tea material.  This is from Assamica material typically processed into pu'er, from Yunnan.  I'll cite the vendor description to fill that part in and get right to it.

On Taoism - Jingyang Golden Flower Fu Brick Tea - 190g Cake ($38.50 for 190 gram cake)

This 190-gram round Golden Flower Fu tea cake is the miniature packaging version of another of our best-selling 350g cakes. Although it is small in size and a bit lighter in weight, the quality of the tea is the same as that of the popular product.

The classic Golden Flower Fu Brick Tea from On Taoism Tea Factory is a signature product of our tea house.

We offer two options:

One is black-wrapped, made from grade one dark tea from Lincang, Yunnan, with a more intense tea aroma.

The other is yellow-wrapped and made from a particular grade one dark tea from Fengqing, Yunnan, with a deeper tea aroma.

Both types of tea undergo post-fermentation and flowering processes in Jingyang. The buds in the red packaging are more tender, while those in the black packaging are more durable for brewing.

These high-quality compressed tea cakes were produced in 2020. They stand out for their ability to be stored long-term and transform, resulting in a more mellow taste.

The most distinctive feature is the high density of golden flowers in the compressed tea cake. These golden flowers, a beneficial microorganism, signify high-quality Fu Brick Tea. To emphasize this feature, workers split the tea cake in half before it left the factory, allowing you to see the dense golden flowers upon receiving the tea. As mentioned in a previous blog, the number of golden flowers is a crucial quality indicator of Fu Brick Tea; the more golden flowers, the better the quality.

This Fu Brick Tea, with its unique round cake shape, supports the traditional and natural growth of the golden flower fungus. Unlike the brick shape of traditional pressed tea, this tea undergoes a unique post-fermentation process using Jingyang water in Jingyang. This process, involving controlled exposure to moisture and air, enhances the tea's flavor and aroma. Thanks to the cotton paper packaging, the rich, high aroma can be appreciated even before brewing.

The Golden Flower Fu Brick Tea offers a unique taste and brewing experience. The tea leaves, known for their durability, can be brewed over 15 times. The taste combines fresh, sweet notes and a returning sweetness with a clear and bright soup base. The On Taoism Tea Factory maintains a clean workshop, ensuring the tea's high quality without washing.

These probably do change a little year to year, but maybe more in the way shou / shu pu'er transitions quite a bit over the first 3 or 4 years, and then changes are gradual and more limited after that.

That pricing is equivalent to a $72 357 gram pu'er cake.  For some Fu zhuan versions that would be on the high side, but these are exceptional, so that seems fair to me.  It would be hard to find other versions that are as distinctive, high in quality, and pleasant, and especially difficult to find anything better.  From there it's down to styles matching preference, which I hope gets described in the notes.

Review:

Lincang material, black label (left in all photos):  I didn't use a rinse; that's a judgement call.  I'm not sure where conventional wisdom stands for rinsing this particular tea.

Flavor is pleasant, rich and complex.  A dark rye sort of bread like aspect stands out.  It's not as heavy, not as dark, as it might be.  One part is lighter, even leaning towards citrusy.  In between complex tones could be judged in different ways.  One would have to mention spice to fill in a decent list, but it's complex enough spice that it's not simple to break down, along the line of incense related spice.

Fengqing material, yellow label (cream colored, really):  even heavier; this is closer to a dark rye, or on towards pumpernickel.  It's clean though; none of the earthy tones seem musty or off, also true of the other version.  An unusual mineral range stands out in this.  Usually mineral tones are light, like flint or limestone, or else quite warm, onto darker colored rocks range, but this isn't so easy to place.  A different spice tone stands out.  For sure that fungus, the golden flowers, is contributing a lot of that to both, so for people familiar with it I could just say these taste like two different variations of golden flowers.  A bit of beeswax sort of flavor comes through, and beyond that again spice tones are hard to place.  Maybe dried fruit plays a role; I'll try to separate a list better next time, but this will probably transition a little already, with a lot of the outer fungus rinsed off in that round.

In retrying both just before going on to the next round the lighter colored first version, in the black label, has a bit more of a distinctive heavy towards actual fungus range, like an old tree bark or log smells in the forest, and the darker colored second version is lighter and brighter.  Interesting.  I don't remember which of these I liked more the last time I tried them, but it will be interesting to see if that changed.

Lincang, black label #2:  even brewed very fast, under 10 seconds, intensity and complexity are great.  Mouthfeel is even full, with a bit more structure to it than last round.  This is giving off a tree bark sort of tone, in a good sense; it's clean, rich, and complex.  Bright tones stand out too, giving it a nice balance.  It's mostly in the range of spice, perhaps with a bit of dried citrus peel standing out.  This is probably the kind of tea that no two people would describe in the same way, so a text description may be of limited helpfulness.

Sweetness, rich feel (with a hint of dryness), and aftertaste really contribute to the experience.

Fengqing, cream colored label:  warmer tones are interesting, especially in contrast with the other being as light as it is.  That seems to have switched, that I just said the opposite in the first round.  I think that round was about the flavor of the fungus that had been rinsing off, and this one relates as much to brewed tea leaves, which are just getting started.  This tastes more like a dark bread, again.  There's a hint of the warm, rich earthiness present in shou / shu pu'er, that peat range, but not much.  It's light and clean in effect, and integrated with the rest in this.  It's more in the dark bread and spice range.  

To me, based only on limited past exploration, to be clear, you don't tend to see this much complexity, balance, and depth in hei cha of this type, Fu zhuan.  The intensity is unusually pronounced.  As I recall, although I didn't re-read an earlier review, these are made from high quality Yunnan material used to make pu'er, not something a bit less (distinctive, or lower in quality?).  I mean the material probably had more potential than hei cha material often does.  It's not made of sticks either, and probably not based on old leaf material as much.  It's just a different thing, across all of those dimensions, related to origin, plant type, and plucking / harvesting standard.

Lincang, #3:  I gave this a little longer, 15 seconds, although the intensity was fine before, maybe on the high side.  It would probably make more sense to use half as much of this tea, dropping the proportion, and brew it on towards 20 seconds.  That's just habit from maxing out proportion most of the time, not an earlier guess about an optimum.

There's a spice oriented range in this that I'm probably never going to describe well.  It reminds me of the Dune theme; this probably tastes a lot like their melange spice would.  It's full and sort of earthy, but also bright and complex.  It hints as lots of spice tone, and also lighter range like dried citrus peel.  Mineral is a part of it, but it's so integrated that it's hard to place, as light or dark, tasting like some particular rock.  Feel is full and rich, but it has an edge of dryness.  It's like how a black tea might include a touch of astringency giving it a little dry feel.  I suppose some might connect this feel and the flavor to that experience, and say that it tastes like the malt in Assam.  It does, a little.  That's probably what I was missing, to the extent it's not just a set of lots of flavors.

Fengqing:  a creaminess picks up; that's interesting.  It's in the form that creamy feel, sort of tied to tastes, emerges in stout beer, like Guinness.  Hints of rich dried fruit also pick up.  Where the other is spice-oriented with dryness this is now on to really tying back to the heavy, dark bread range, not unlike stout, with sweetness picking up.  Feel is rich and creamy, not dry at all.  It's missing that malt edge in the other, which could be a good or bad thing, depending on preference.  

From there one might see parallel with warm tones in fallen logs, with tree bark.  It's also leaning a little towards cacao, but I don't think many people would make that association, because it's not quite there.  It's the way that rich flavor range, soft feel, and complexity come across that implies something like it.  

At this point I like the cream colored label version better (later I'll swap in tea plant material origin locations for main descriptions).  That complexity, spice, and dryness in the first works, it balances in a positive way, but this second version is really unique.

Lincang, #4:  not so different than last round, so I'll mostly skip repeating it all.  Maybe a bit of extra sweetness picks up, an extra dried fruit oriented flavor that's hard to place, partly related to dried citrus peel, but there is more to it.  As to form of citrus I'd say it's red grapefruit.  An Assam drinker might really love this.  I mean someone drinking really good orthodox, high quality Assam, not the ground up stuff that requires milk and sugar.  It includes some of the same malt and fruit, plus an extra dimension or two.  Astringency is very limited, to just a bit of dry edge, but to me that's a good thing.  

Fengqing:  a different kind of spice range enters in, a root spice effect, along the line of sassafras, just not exactly that.  Warm tones stand out all the more, although I guess that was also true in a different sense in the last couple of rounds.  It's creamy in a slightly different way, leaning towards root beer, instead of stout (actual dark beer).  

This is a really unique tea experience.  Both are, but it seems like parts of the other version's character turn up in other places more, in other types.  You just don't end up drinking teas that land right in between dark bread and root beer for flavor range, or maybe really spanning both, including them.  If that somehow didn't make sense together, if it didn't integrate, this could be really off-putting, but it ties together beautifully.  I'd be surprised if I didn't like this tea version more last time.

Of course the teas kept brewing, without changing character that much over the next few rounds, eventually fading later.

Conclusions:

I had reviewed these earlier here; one of the points of this review is to compare notes.  I brewed them Western style, which isn't typical for me for most tea types.  It's not a bad call, related to this style of tea, but you experience more distinct flavor aspects when you Gong Fu brew them.  It also helps with dialing in infusion strength.  

It makes it hard to compare impressions, because they were made differently, and expressed character differently as a result.  The general impressions match, but this second review adds a lot more detail.  This tea is good enough that you probably should Gong Fu brew it; you see an extra dimension or two that way, and it's worth it.  Or if you don't feel like going through that some of the time results are fine the other way, unlike brewing a lot of range of sheng pu'er, which typicall just doesn't really work out well.

Drilling down to finer flavor aspects more, and feel character, it was interesting how one part of the Lincang range reminded me of good orthodox Assam experience, the slightly drier feel, and touch of malt.  You might only associate the flavor with malt if you could make that connection, since it's natural to be "looking for" other earth, spice, and dried fruit range instead.  

The Fengqing expressed more spice range in the Gong Fu brewing based review, like sassafras, coming out more after the first couple of infusions.  Brewed Western style those same generalities turned up, but in far less specific form.  Someone might have even interpreted it as leaning towards cacao, when I saw it as closer to root beer in the last round.  If it sounds like it's closer to shou / shu pu'er I would say that kind of partly works, but it's not related to peat flavor, which is pretty common in shou.

Compared to the other Fu zhuan versions made from white teas these are just different.  Those might have been a little lighter in character, possibly slightly sweeter, maybe with different pronounced fruit tones.  There was a little fruit range in these too though, and earthiness was present but not in a way that dominated the character, nothing unusual, that necessarily would be regarded as a flaw, or negative input.

I should be able to say which matched my preference most, even though that alone can be tricky comparing over weeks of time, and it doesn't necessarily mean anything to anyone else.  Often when you try a tea a few times your impression changes, and you relate to it differently.  That last Fu zhuan tea was pretty good; I can't say that I like either of these more.  It had a clean, bright, fruit intensive range, with lots of depth, that all balanced well.  But there is something really interesting and appealing about the Fengqing version, the way that particular spice range and varied depth come across.  The other is good too, and for a tea to have with food it might be better, but in terms of this impression I liked the Fengqing version more than the Lincang. 

Tea Mania Yibang and Mengsong sheng pu'er, from 2013 and 14

 

I'm reviewing two partly aged sheng pu'er versions from a Tea Mania set of samples I received awhile back.  Many thanks to Peter, the owner, for sharing them for review!  All their teas are exceptional, for the most part, so that drops out one potential concern, about whether I'll like them or not.  

Farmerleaf is like that, to add a reference point for people who aren't familiar with them.  Styles vary some; Farmerleaf is oriented more towards what that particular harvest year turns up in a local area, mostly in Jing Mai, but also beyond there, and Tea Mania uses limited input from a very reliable set of producers, from different areas.

In recent Reddit tea sub (group) posts two themes came up that relate to these, which I'll only touch on a little here.  One is semi-aged tea, particularly relating to dry storage, and the other relates to brewing dragonballs.  I didn't know where these were stored, when writing the notes, but the site listing usually includes that.  It wasn't in a place as humid and warm as Bangkok or Malaysia, and probably somewhere in Yunnan, where conditions vary a good bit.  

My input was that it can make a lot of sense to drink medium aged teas (in the roughly 10 year old range) when they are aged in dry conditions, changing very slowly.  Note that people use the terms aged or semi-aged in different ways.  For some aged sheng is 20 years old, period, so 15 years is semi-aged.  Others would shift around those times.  It really depends more on fermentation level, which ties to storage conditions input.

The same teas would push through a fermentation transition cycle fast where I am now, in Bangkok, losing the initial freshness and brightness over the first 3 to 4 years.  That's great for teas that need to change a lot, like Xiaguan tuocha versions, since they're much further through the process at 15 years, and pretty much completely ready at 20.  But for high quality sheng, versions that are approachable to begin with, it's not so ideal, unless you do actually drink the tea within that first 3 to 4 years.  Or you can wait for another dozen for more complete change-over, with 15 years old being the low end threshold for mostly age transitioned, even in wetter (more humid) storage.  This review covers more on that related to these two examples.  

But let's start with the vendor listings:

Yibang Gushu Spring 2013 (120 CHF, $148, for a 200 gram cake)

For this Pu-erh cake, teamasters Panda and Yang Ming used tea leaves from up to 300 years old tea trees (Gushu) and processed them into 200g cakes. We were especially looking forward to this Pu-erh because we personelly like tea fromYibang. The tea trees in Yibang are very special. The tea leaves of  the Yibang tea trees are noticable smaller in size and some of them turn under certain conditions purple.

Sichuan tea storage

Teamaster Panda was so kind and has left us some bing of this great tea. Since this tea was stored in Sichuan, the home of Panda, the riped very well. Sichuan is not as humid as Xishuangbanna but also not as dry as Kunming. In fact, it’s just the level we prefer.

Harvest: Spring 2013

Pressed: 2013

Taste: Fruity, a lot Cha Qi and a sweet aftertaste

Terroir: Yibang, Xishuangbanna prefecture, Yunnan province, China

Mengsong Dragon Balls ($62 for 80 grams, 10 8-gram balls)

My friend and mentor, Tea Master Panda, has once again dug up a rarity. Year after year Tea Master Panda has inspired us anew with fresh and well-known Pu-erh teas from the old tea mountains. But the lovers of stored teas were a little bit forgotten. For them we now have a well stored Mengsong Gushu from spring harvest 2014. Dragon Balls, Long Zhu in Chinese language, of 8g were made from the tea leaves in Yang Ming’s tea factory to offer the tea in small quantities or as a sample. The tea was stored in Xishuangbanna under natural conditions until 2020 and is already very ripe.

Harvest: Spring 2014

Pressed: 2014

Aroma: Mellow aroma, strong Cha Qi and fruity taste

Terroir: Mengsong, Xishuangbanna prefecture, Yunnan province, China

This same material is sold as 2014 gushu Mengsong cake, here, listing for $222 for a 357 gram cake.

Review:

Yibang:  that's very nice.  There's a really distinctive spice tone in this, in between sassafras and driftwood, or including those, and maybe some other range.  It could seem a little fruity, but it's mostly that.  Tones are warm, but this hasn't transitioned that much for being a dozen year old version.  It must have stayed in a cooler and dryer place.  Yunnan?  I'll check the description at the end.  Feel is nice, but it's too early for describing that just yet.

Later editing note:  Peter (Tea Mania) is describing this storage as in between humid and dry, but my own baseline relates to where I live in Bangkok.  Teas change fast here.  I don't think that's ideal for all types for all aging levels, but it is perfect for moving things along, if that's the intention.

Mengsong:  one of the challenges is going to be getting this to open up.  There never will be a parallel to the infusion cycles.  One positive about brewing dragonballs, which is mostly negative, as I see it, is that since the inner part starts to infuse over the first 4 rounds or so there is fresh, bright character being extracted across a lot of rounds, instead of it all transitioning over the first 3 to 5.  But beyond that it's a hassle getting it to infuse, and you don't get as clear an impression of the tea character at different stages for that mixing together of parts of the infusion cycle.

It's too light for description just yet, but this tea is really good.  There's a pretty good chance that I've tried it before; it seems familiar.  It's bright, floral, sweet, and light, but even for all that you get a sense of great intensity and complexity setting in, and maybe even refinement.  This tea version is probably worth the trouble of messing with dragonballs.  But in talking to Peter in the past, the Tea Mania owner, they pressed dragonballs to use as sample references for teas, not to sell as those, so someone buying this version--if it's still available--might relate to the cake form.

Later edit:  they sell both forms; that's convenient.

Yibang #2:  that interesting spice range picked up.  It includes medicinal herb spice as well, a general range that may or may not seem descriptive.  I get a sense that there may be a spice related flavor I'm missing referencing, that something out there does match this.  Or it's probably so complex that only a most distinctive range could match, and there would be more.  This includes sassafras, and also something like ginseng, and some medicinal spice or even incense spice (sandalwood, maybe).  Someone really dialed into this range would absolutely love it, and others might not like it.

Feel has a bit of body and dryness.  I suppose that seems to connect with what I'd expect from bark spice flavor, and again the specifics within this range are pretty open to different interpretations.  It wouldn't be unusual for someone to see that as connecting with warm mineral, or for others to miss that in a description list.  Brewing it on the fast side, slightly faster than I have been, is probably optimum.  Flavors are plenty intense, and as is typical for many warmer and mineral or mild earth oriented teas a lighter brewed intensity works better.

This certainly isn't "going dead" in terms of being in an in-between aging / fermentation transition phase, the awkward teen years theme people mention. 

Mengsong:  starting to infuse.  Warmer tones pick up in this already.  It's still fairly light and bright, especially for this age.  Where it lands in the balance is fine.  Bitterness has mostly evolved out of the flavor profile, as for the other, but I would have surely loved this at half this age, at higher intensity, with more bitterness, some extra astringency, and lighter flavor tones.  It seems like it's going to be quite positive just now, so I don't mean that as criticism.  

Flavors and feel don't always make sense at different ages and transition levels, but these both seem to.  Maybe because it's not a bit further along, because the transition process was slower due to cooler and dryer storage?  I'll add more on that in an intro at the editing phase.

A more flavor-list oriented description will probably make more sense next round.

the fermentation level color difference is obvious, but the Mengsong does darken over rounds

Yibang #3:  brewed light this is really nice; intensity is still high, and complexity comes across even better.  I broke form and didn't brew 8 grams of this, maybe more like 5 or 6, and it was a good call, to help moderate intensity.  It's odd that so much intensity comes up this far into aging transition.  It's not bitter or astringent, it's just that the flavor is intense, and you get plenty from it brewed light.

It's still in that broad spice range, all warmer tones, just not heavy in character.  Again it's sassafras, some medicinal spice (maybe back spice oriented?), with some incense spice, along the line of sandalwood, to the extent I can remember that scent.  It would be funny if this tastes a lot like patchouli smells and I just don't remember that.  

There is also a light mint note in it, that integrates with the warmer spice so much that it's hard to identify.  Thais love to smell very strong scented mixes of spices, ya dom, to clear their nose or brighten their mood, and this isn't so close to that typical mix but it might overlap a little.  That mint might be evolving into camphor range, where it had been brighter before.  Camphor probably should be on the short list of main flavor aspects.

Mengsong:  this is finally unfurled enough that I'm breaking it apart, ripping it with my fingers, so it will brew much differently next round, and the one after it will be expressing a more developed character.  At this stage it's still quite light, but also very pleasant.  It's sweet, floral-oriented, and creamy.  

I'm starting to get blasted on these teas and this one isn't even really infusing completely yet.  I may need to eat something and walk around a little after the next round.  

Ordinarily it doesn't make sense to drink two together like this, not so much because you can't identify the effects of just one, although some people value that, but because you can't make it through a 7 or 8 round infusion cycle and still drink the 14 to 16 cups of tea.  I'm not throwing this tea away to rush the process; it's too good to do that.

Yibang #4:  the proportion of the long list of flavors I keep mentioning keeps shifting.  Now camphor stands out all the more, and incense spice has replaced a lot of the rest.  It's the best this has been, and it was pretty good in earlier rounds.  Feel is smoother, richer, and not dry at all.  Depth picks up, and aftertaste intensity expands.  All of that is from using a pretty fast infusion time too, 10 seconds or so.  

This is on a path of evolving and improving so much that it may be as good or better for a couple more infusions, then I'd expect complexity to taper off a little in later rounds.  Infusion 7 isn't exactly a late round, but I mean this has been evolving to be better and better, more complex and with more depth, and usually that doesn't keep up for the whole cycle.

Mengsong:  it's a completely different tea, now that it has started brewing most of the leaves.  Flavor range is similar, but intensity is completely different, and the balance seems different, even though the character is really the same.  Mild spice tones pick up in this.  Nothing like the intensity and complexity of the other version, the Yibang, and this still connects back to warm floral range, and a lighter mineral tone base.  Sweetness is really nice in this.  It's not missing in the other, but it stands out more in this.  

Layers of complex flavors mix together.  One part seems like floral or spice, as I've mentioned, then others could seem vegetal, in a sense that's hard to identify.  It connects through a warm wood tone range, which is back to sandalwood, or even a touch of cedar.  It integrates and balances well.  For anyone who doesn't drink young sheng it may seem to include bitterness, but for a sheng drinker the inclusion is so moderate that it's easy to miss the role a very limited input of that plays.  Sweetness and other flavor range are much more intense.

These kind of show how I think that slower, dryer aging works for some brighter character teas.  In Bangkok the heat and humidity would have overpowered and shifted the brighter range in these at half this age, at 5 or 6 years instead of 11 or 12.  That's fine for making Xiaguan more approachable, or Dayi numbered series cakes, because those need a lot of transition, but these would have great to drink at half this age / transition level.  And they're still exceptional now, just in a different form, and sense.  

Next one might wonder if you couldn't just drink a wet and hot stored version of these at 3 years old to get the same effect, and although it's a personal judgment kind of the call I think not.  Moving so much faster, based on fast bacteria and fungus input, the effect isn't the same.  Bright tones drop out quickly, within 3 or 4 years, and the warmer range that enters in is slightly different.  I'm not saying that wet stored tea has to become musty, although it can be, but flavor range tends to be heavier.

Yibang #5:  I let these brew longer because someone delivered a package just as I poured that round.  It's a different perspective on the tea, I just wouldn't have tried it without that prompt, for how these were in the last round.

Intensity is a bit much.  It's not ruined, but the character is much different.  A sappy sort of resin flavor and feel emerges.  Camphor is still pronounced, and a different balance of all that spice tone I kept going on about.  It's good like this, and nothing really shows up as a flaw.  Some people might not like this flavor set or character, but to me that's not related to a quality limitation.  It's a positive sign that it drinks well overbrewed (a little; I didn't leave it for too long).  Effect is still clean, and that dry edge to the feel isn't unapproachable, it's just more resinous.

Mengsong:  this approaches the other tea's character more than it had last round.  It also picks up a woody, aromatic spice resinous character.  A hint of cedar is pronounced, and beyond that it's more incense spice range.  These might be good as truly aged teas, in however long one judges that to take, maybe another decade at this somewhat slow transition pace.  They're not fading in intensity, and the evolved character for both is still positive.  Some versions seem a lot more woody, but that often relates to a lower quality level and less positive character earlier on.  

At a guess I would have liked this tea better at half this age, better even than as fully aged, in another 8 to 10 years.  That's more about me liking younger range sheng than how this is changing, or probably will change.  I get it that many people like refined, complex, deeper flavors of aged sheng, that it's a very natural preference, especially as a developed one.  If I would have been drinking more aged sheng than young versions over the last half dozen years maybe I'd be on that page.  I do drink some, regularly, but I love the freshness, brightness, sweetness, and intensity of younger sheng, even though bitterness and more astringency go along with that.  Not the kerosene oriented flavor and harsh feel of cheaper factory teas; I mean related to versions that are good within the first few years, or even as brand new tea.

Yibang #6:  brewed lighter again the balance changes.  It is taking on a slightly more woody flavor; this is kind of fading.  This could have easily been where it was at infusion #8, if that last round had been for a normal timing.  This is still really nice, complex, with a decent feel, and good balance, but it's on the decline.  I did brew a few rounds later on and they were still positive, not noticing any unusual flavor transitions, or fast decline.

Mengsong:  this could be where part of this tea only being on it's 3rd infusion helps.  It retains some of that early-round brightness and freshness.  I suppose some of the late-round extra bitterness is already entering in too, since it was infusing for longer earlier on just to get it decompressed, so it's a mixed effect.  

This is still really positive.  A little more wood tone enters in, but not to the extent the other is moving in that direction.  The brightness includes a touch of citrus; that's something I probably missed in the last two rounds.  A little of that creaminess and floral range reminds me of the high mountain character of Taiwanese oolongs; that's pleasant, along with the rest.

Related to my own preference I do like the Mengsong better.  Again I might've liked it more 3 or 4 years ago, but it makes sense at this level, and shows promise for how it will be as an aged version, much later on.

Conclusions:

That's already most of what I thought of these.  It's hard to express in terms of aspects just how good these teas are.  They're good; quality level stands out.  It's odd saying that along with commenting that I tend to like younger versions, so for me they'd probably have been better a few years ago.  It's not at all a conflict, as I see it.

Value can be hard to assess, because the range of what is out there like these is limited, in comparison with younger / newer tea range.  Same for quality level; plenty of tea this good is available, but not as much as more ordinary versions are.  You'd have to know where to look to find it.

The Yibang version sells for $148 for a 200 gram cake, equivalent to $264 for a 357 gram version, and the Mengsong for $222 for a 357 gram cake of the same material.  That's a bit.  Only people with somewhat open tea budgets would consider these, but for sheng enthusiasts who value higher quality aged versions, who have that budget, $300-400 cakes are not such an unusual theme.  Or $1000 and up; there's no limit.  It's beyond the range I'm familiar enough with to critique, really.  But it's probably fair, maybe even a good value.

As I mentioned in the notes I've not leaned into exploring better aged sheng versions, and kind of couldn't, given that this higher pricing extends all the more to sample range, where none of it would be under $1 a gram.  In that sense buying 80 grams of the Mengsong for $62 is a good value.  People already feel however they do about the dragonball form, who are already in the process of exploring above average quality sheng pu'er.  It seems like a dozen years ago the conventional reaction was that it's a great way to try a little of these types of teas, and then within 8 or 9 years ago a loose pu'er community consensus was that they don't brew very well, so they stopped turning up as frequently.  Of course they're still around, even as newly pressed versions, but not like a decade ago.

cats coming down with the flu has been a running theme lately

her too

Oriental Leaf Fu zhuan hei cha (based on white tea)

 

I'm reviewing a Fu style hei cha from Oriental Leaf (sent by them for review; many thanks!).

Baicha Fuzhuan (Fu Xi & Fu Bao)  ($45 for 190 gram brick)

Baicha Fuzhuan is a unique style of Fu brick tea made using white tea leaves as the base material. This tea is naturally fermented to develop “Jin Hua” (金花, golden flowers) — a type of beneficial fungus (Eurotium cristatum) traditionally prized in Chinese dark teas.

What makes this tea stand out is its smooth and sweet profile, with the light floral notes of white tea combined with the earthy, mellow depth from fermentation. The result is a gentle, aromatic tea with both clarity and richness — offering a fresh take on classic Fu tea.

Crafted by On Taorism几于道, this tea proudly represented Orientaleaf at the 2025 World Tea Championship, where it won the Superior Award for both Best Leaf Profile and Best Cup Character...

The side of the box clearly states: “Source of Fu Tea: Jingyang (茯茶宗源地),” honoring the tea’s origin. Jingyang is historically known as the birthplace of Fu brick tea.

I've left out that it's sold in either red or yellow wrapping, with the tea the same.

So it's white tea processed as Fu style hei cha, similar to one other version I've tried from them (here).  It is a bit mellow and fragrant; results seem generally positive.  The notes cover that.

Review:

first infusion:  interesting!  It's not really subtle, but it's on the mellow and balanced side, with lighter tones showing up a lot more than I expected.  Fu zhuan is never heavy, earthy, and peat-oriented, as shou pu'er can be, but this is a little light in tone as others go.  A distinct sweetness that I see as connecting to the fungus (golden flowers) input stands out.  Often that will couple with a yeasty sort of note, and that's subdued in this, not overpowering, not even overly pronounced.  So it is earthy, a bit like a light rye bread, combined with light floral tone, but it's rich and creamy as well.  

I expected more intensity, but for this being clean, complex, and balanced by positive feel, and including a limited but also diverse flavor range, the overall balance is nice.  I'll be brewing this for 20+ seconds to keep the intensity up.

second infusion:  heavier flavors enter in, and intensity picks up; it will be easier to add more of a flavors list.  The bright, yeasty, towards rye bread and floral range (chrysanthemum) tones are still present, but a whole other range adds to that.  Warm, clean, balanced mineral range joins it.  I suppose it seems in the general spice range, or tied to that, so that warm mineral and moderately warm-toned spice seem to link.  The spice range is complex; one part is light, like ginseng, and another leans towards bark spice, just not cinnamon.  

Sweetness is nice; that helps the rest balance.  The effect being so clean also works well.  There is no off earthy or mineral related input, no mustiness, no challenging astringency edge, and so on.  Feel is somewhat full, kind of moderate, not as thick as the creamiest and thickest teas but with plenty of good feel to give it balance.  It's nice, altogether.

There are distinctive flavors that people could identify in different ways in this.  What I'm describing as yeasty rye bread, ginseng, or warm mineral people could interpret completely differently.  Seeing a part of it as relating to some type of dried fruit would work.  I see the chrysanthemum oriented warm and smooth floral range as secondary, a supporting element, but someone else might see it as at the core of the experience.  Describing some of those parts as light wood tones would work, along the line of driftwood, maybe, something smooth and rich but not astringent.

third infusion:   it transitions a little, but it's hard to say how.  A light dried citrus peel note seemed to enter in.  The former light, brighter range rye bread (dominant range) is transitioning, so that warmer, heavier flavors pick up more intensity.  Aftertaste is longer, the finish, and warmer mineral range picks up, joined by a slightly more structured feel.  I suspect that I could drink this during a fast; there is so little that's challenging in the mouthfeel that it might also feel fine for your stomach when conditions are problematic.

It's almost as if the golden flowers add a different kind of character in this.  There's a brighter, yeasty, towards beeswax range that often is included, and that's not completely missing here, but the tones are warm, soft, and balanced.  It's more towards that warm floral range.

it brewed darker later rounds; I must have infused that quickly

fourth infusion:  not so different than last round; it seems like this might lose intensity over a few more rounds and that will be it.  Compared to some of what I've reviewed it might sound like this had a shorter story to tell, and I guess in a sense that works.  It's also nice drinking a more mellow, basic, somewhat complex but not challenging tea.  

As a sheng pu'er drinker I tend more often crave that bright, bitter, flavor intensive, and astringent intensity.  This connects closer to my black tea preference, for which I like more of the opposite, teas that are comforting and basic, with depth but not so much complexity and intensity.  Sometimes it's nice to not be challenged by your tea, even in the sense of appreciating a lot of complexity and refinement.  It's distinctive and complex enough; I mean that it's approachable and agreeable.

I just reviewed a black tea that was almost too good, that works as an example.  You just wouldn't have such a tea with breakfast, and it would waste the experience to not focus mainly on that for at least 45 minutes or so, or a half an hour if you were rushing it a little.  You would need to be in a somewhat clear mental space to really relate fully to it, especially related to changes across infusions.  This hei cha you could just drink, with a breakfast, while doing other things, or just relaxing in the afternoon, without paying too much attention to it.  Or it is unique and pleasant; you could focus on it if you wanted to.

It's nice how today is our first day of the cool season.  It's still in the upper 80s out here, just now, 32 C (so about 89), but the much drier air feels completely different.  The rainy season in Thailand is quite hot.

Further conclusions:

That's already most of what I thought of it.  Related to it really being a white tea, as a starting base for further processing, that explains why it was so mellow and yet also fragrant, including nice floral range and lighter spice or wood tones.  It's good.  Good enough to win an award at a tea expo or contest?  Sure, I suppose.  It did, and it was pleasant, complex, balanced, and unique.

This makes me consider value; one of the benefits of appreciating Fu style hei cha is that it's often cheap, although if you need to seek out better versions and try lots that aren't as positive to get to an exceptional one that adds cost, effort, and delay, and what you waste on shipping also factors in.  Often a slight rough edge or off flavor can adjoin otherwise interesting and pleasant range, or other limitations.  Then drinking older versions can mellow a tea out to make some of those limitations drop out, and let depth increase, but then it's back to adding significant cost.

This was $45 for 190 gram brick.  For sheng pu'er that's a typical range; that would be something like $85 for a 357 gram cake.  For standard Fu zhuan range it's a little high.  But then this isn't standard Fu hei cha, it's a variation, and a higher quality example.  That other white tea based Fu processed version was sold as 10 3-gram mini tablets for $15.50, so for around 50 cents a gram; significantly more.  But then the sample theme works out like that too; you don't buy a 10 gram pu'er sample for the same unit price as a 357 gram cake.

In that post I think that I concluded that there's not an industry standard price range for teas this unique.  I suppose existing demand would also be limited.

I reviewed two 190 gram Fu cake versions from them last year, not identified as based on white tea, or some other atypical variant, and those were priced at $38.50 for 190 gram cake (two variations of it).  Compared to what market outlets like Yunnan Sourcing or King Tea Mall sell that may sound like a lot, but trying low or average quality Fu zhuan hei cha might identify that this budget-oriented approach is problematic, for the reasons I mentioned, because lots of it isn't that good.  If the idea is to buy the cheapest possible tea that could be great, but how enjoyable the tea is factors in a lot, for most.  Those were really good tea, surely in the high end of the range as Fu zhuan hei cha experience goes.  

This version is even more unique, and whether someone sees it as better or not might come down to personal preference.  I think it would appeal to a broad range of people, more so than average quality Fu zhuan or other hei cha.