Gua Feng Zhai gushu sheng pu'er

the 6th round; it stayed pleasant and kept transitioning

I'm trying the last sample of a set of teas from Tea Mania, shared by the owner Peter (many thanks!).  This represents the end of a number of sets of teas I had to try from the middle of 2025; kind of an interesting symbolic turning point.  I won't mind not reviewing much for a month or two, or if it's a slow year after that.  It's a nice experience related to trying the teas, but it involves at least an hour of focus and writing, and then more editing later on.  It's not the time that I'm short on, it's using up that much focus.

This tea was exceptional (I'm writing this just after writing the notes).  I think every single sample from them was, in different ways.  Some vendors are pretty good about only curating what works well.  Farmerleaf is sort of like that.  Yunnan Sourcing sells everything under the sun instead, which works in a different way.  Then it would be a different kind of discussion if their in-house versions are comparable.  I stopped ordering those roughly back when I first started to, just over a half dozen years ago, not because they didn't work out, but I just kept on exploring other things, and other sources.

I bought very little tea in 2025; flying back and forth to Honolulu and living expenses in that more expensive place shattered our Thai-based budget and income.  I bought a 500 gram Xiaguan tea ball locally last year, as an exception, in a Bangkok Chinatown shop (Jip Eu), but the rest I bought was mostly just gifts.  It worked out; I had some tea around to drink from before (as my wife tends to mention), and vendors helped by providing new teas to try.  I'm ordering a few inexpensive cakes from a favorite Vietnamese producer source just now, but in general I'll probably stick to that form this year too.

I get it why people buy teas like this one I review, more towards the $1 per gram scale.  They can afford it, and it represents a type of experience you can't access for 20 to 30 cents a gram.  There's something pleasant about drinking more basic, more limited teas too though.  The ever-escalating quality level or novelty theme experience expectations can be a sort of trap.  It would never be enough.  But then if someone can easily afford to spend a couple thousand dollars a year on tea then why not; there is range beyond this expense level that might even make sense.

I was going to add that past a certain quality level of material, or the experience enabled by one, it changes the experience to be one you can just focus on.  But maybe that goes too far.  I could drink a relatively basic Dian Hong, or even some good Darjeeling, or upper-medium quality green tea, and spend an hour outside in our driveway, between the garden spaces, watching our cats chase each other around.  The tea wouldn't be as refined, and it wouldn't change as much across infusions, but the basis of the experience is internal, not from that drink input.  

Maybe trying something new is a different thing; if this had been a Dian Hong I've already drank half a kilogram of the novelty of new experience wouldn't be there.  But still, I think cultivation of being present in the moment of a pleasant and extended experience is not tied to experiential variety, as much as approach and perspective.  It should be possible to drink ordinary tea in a shopping center parking lot and have a wonderful, peaceful experience.  I suppose the parts to tend to build up to the whole though, and an ocean view or green garden spaces would work better, and better tea.  

Like this one:

Gua Feng Zhai Gushu 2021  ($154 for a 200 gram cake)

Discover the exquisite craftsmanship of teamaster Panda with our Gua Feng Zhai Gushu, a distinguished tea known for its exceptional quality. Sourced from the renowned Gua Feng Zhai region, this tea is crafted from premium Gushu material, meticulously hand-pressed into pu-erh cakes at Yang Ming’s artisanal manufactory. The dedication to traditional, handmade processing and the careful selection of tea leaves are what set this tea apart, ensuring a product of unparalleled quality.

Gua Feng Zhai’s pu-erh teas are treasured for their rarity, produced in extremely limited quantities each year, making them highly coveted by collectors and tea enthusiasts alike. The Gua Feng Zhai Gushu is particularly suitable for long-term storage, with the potential to develop richer and increasingly complex aromas over time, offering a truly dynamic tea experience.

Harvest: Autumn 2021

Pressed: 2021

Typ: Sheng

Aroma: Strong, strong Cha Qi but also mellow taste

That's a bit heavy on marketing, but at least the tea is as good or better than the spin frames it as.  It's interesting that it's an autumn harvest tea.  Flavors and other aspects could vary some, but in general those tend to be less intense than spring harvest versions.  One comment here in the review kind of ties to that, but intensity was still pretty good.  Bitterness and astringency were quite moderate, so feel and flavor stand out more, especially flavor.

This probably is a high demand local area, as this implies, or more or less plainly says.  That would be why an autumn harvest version is being sold for this pricing, which for how good this tea is seems like a pretty good value.  I end up concluding that it seems good to me now, that waiting to see how it changes in another decade wouldn't make sense (mentioned in that listing, about aging potential), but I guess that's a judgement call.

It would've been interesting to see more of a flavor list in this description, since I'd guess that it has changed some in the past 5 years.  Those descriptions always vary by interpretation anyway, as the one that follows would.

Review:

Infusion #1:  the dry tea scent was really fruity.  Fruit comes across quite a bit in this first light infusion.  It's close enough to dried mango.  I'll probably keep changing that, or adding to it, but that works for now.  

The tea already has pretty good depth and balance, even though it's just getting started.  Complexity is limited, but it's not even wetted yet.  There's a nice mineral layer base, and creaminess.  That's more common in oolong but it can come up in some sheng, in a different way.  This tastes like pear too, now that I think of it.  That might be an overall favorite aspect inclusion, for me, when balanced with other flavors that match with it.

#2:  Pear, dried mango, and mineral base is already a good start for description this round.  There's a warmer range aspect that matches nicely with the rest, but it's integrated, not easy to describe.  As always in this range interpreting it as partly floral also works.  The two themes might even connect; chrysanthemum has a nice warm, rich, floral texture, and part of this is like that.  

It's complex enough that someone like Don Mei could go on and on describing this round for 10 minutes.  Maybe it does also taste a little like butter cookie, or like a yellow cake.  Maybe seeing it as including a hint of spice also works, just a touch of nutmeg, or maybe there is a light citrus edge.  Take all that with a grain of salt; it's complex, and there is more to it, but I think the first half dozen aspects that I mentioned make the most sense as an interpretation.

It's unusually good.  Does that come across in listing the flavor aspects?  It balances well, and that mix of depth, sweetness, complexity, and overall balance is just great.  There is enough bright range to complement the richer, deeper flavors perfectly, and it's just not a heavy or challenging tea.  Feel is full but aspects like astringency and bitterness don't really come to mind.

For being a 2021 tea this hasn't transitioned that much, but probably some.  This is where more gradual, not so hot and humid storage really shines.  In Bangkok this would've been heavier and further along by now, but it's better this way, I think.  It would probably good in a different way in another 15 years, but to me it's too good now not to just drink it.

#3:  it might integrate and balance even better, even though it's similar.  Mineral picks up, and it had been pronounced before.  I guess that's part of the "depth" people claim relates to gushu forms.  And then another part, or other parts, might be harder to pin down.  One positive input could just relate to it being this good.

Fruit does stand out less, giving up space for that mineral and warm richness.  I guess that also makes the floral range seem to stand out more.  You could probably emphasize the lighter, brighter flavor range by brewing this even faster (I'm using around 10 seconds), and ramp up feel and heavier aspects by letting it brew longer.  To me this is pretty good, a nice balance.  Maybe brewing it a few seconds faster would be as good, or possibly slightly better, and over a few rounds that would get you an extra round.  I'll try it brewed fast next round.

#4:  a flash infusion is probably a little too light.  It still includes plenty of flavor, but the feel thins out.  That really fast brew pacing is more for sheng versions that are overly intense.  A spice note like sassafras shows up, tried out this way.  Or maybe it was evolving towards that anyway.  Again it's quite pleasant.  

It has worked out well to try this tea last from the set of samples Peter shared; it's really pleasant and distinctive.  It will be interesting to see what this sells for.  It reminds me of a past personal favorite from Nannuo, that probably wasn't this good, but that paralleled some of these flavors.

#5:  spice range definitely picks up, but it's broader than the sassafras was last round.  Describing it clearly isn't going to work, even in parts.  One part is that, and another is a driftwood sort of sweet and dry woodiness, like how balsa wood smells.  Then that's rounded out with root spice, more like ginseng, maybe just not quite as punchy and medicinal as ginseng (which is also subtle, in a different sense).  It has changed a lot over the last three rounds.  That really short infusion approach could also relate to slowing the transition, or trying to, to get the most out of the tea where it's at in the cycle.  

Of course these flavors link well with the pronounced base mineral tone, which isn't dropping out.  Feel and aftertaste are significant, but those can be more intense in some other versions.  Overall balance is the nicest part, the way it all comes together each round.  Usually I'm bored with writing notes by this point but I'll describe one more round, even though it will probably change some after that.

#6:  it changes less than it had over last rounds.  Mineral and warm spice tones pick up enough that it's taking on a more savory character.  Probably as a much younger tea astringency and bitterness would have been a bigger input, and these warm tones wouldn't have been nearly as pronounced.  To me this represents when partial aging works, when limited transition can be positive, even without trying it then.  

Then again I would've liked the intense bright flavors when this was quite new, even with more bitterness and astringency included.  Bright floral range and lighter fruit range probably would have stood out.  It's nice like this; these warm tones work.  The tea retaining some light and bright range makes them balance well.  Again I wouldn't wait a few years to drink this to see how all that changes; it's in a nice place now.

2022 Bangwai and 2021 Bulang gushu sheng pu'er

 

I'm reviewing two more of what should be fantastic gushu sheng pu'er from Tea Mania.  Again these are mini-discs, not the ideal form for brewing, but it works, and with practice it works well.

I've been trying Bulang versions some lately, but of course that range could vary.  I might seem to imply understating origin as an input to flavor and other character, even though I claim that the two connect, and that there are regional consistencies, probably more pronounced the more local the area is under consideration.  It's just that I don't memorize a matrix of past impressions, and derived general expectations.  For the Bangwai even that wouldn't apply; I may or may not have ever tried a version from there, and don't know where that is within a broader region.  I'm fine with only passing on an impression, as a primary review practice, but it seems a bit like sloppy work.  

Of course I'll compare this a little to Bulang versions I've tried in the past month, but even then not much.

Bangwai Gushu 2022  ($117 USD for 200 grams; equivalent to a $209 357 gram cake)

The Bangwai Gushu is celebrated for its meticulous, traditional handmade processing and the selective use of the finest tea leaves. This dedication to quality is evident in every sip, making it a treasured choice among collectors. Due to the limited availability, Pu-erh teas from the Bangwai region are released in small quantities each year, adding to their exclusivity and allure.

Ideal for long-term aging, thi tea is a tea connoisseur’s delight, known to develop richer and more complex aromas over time. Its robust character and evolving taste profile make it a remarkable choice for those who appreciate the depth and intricacy of Pu-erh teas.

Harvest: Spring 2022...

Aroma: Spicy, much Cha Qi and sweet finish

Terroir: Bangwai, Lancang prefecture, Yunnan province, China...

Tip: This Bangwai tea is ideal to mature a few years

Bulang Gushu 2021 Balanced  (the same price as the other cake, 95 CHF, $117 for 200 grams)

Harvest date: Spring 2021

Pressed: 2021

Typ: Sheng

Taste: Strong, intense and deep

Terroir: Bulang Mountain, Xishuangbanna prefecture, Yunnan province, China

There is a bitter version and "balanced" version listed, and I'm guessing that this was balanced, since it's really not all that bitter.  I guess it's possible that 4 years of aging transition changed it a lot, and it could have been, and it might be the other one, but probably not.

[later editing note: per discussion with Peter, the owner, it was probably the bitter version, which did emerge more in the late rounds (that flavor aspect).  But it was probably a good bit more bitter when new.]

There isn't much more description of the tea there, just some related background (only sampled):

This exquisite Bulang Gushu is a product of the collaborative craftsmanship of teamaster Panda and Yang Ming, crafted exclusively for us with a keen understanding of our fondness for Bulang teas. Reminiscent of the legendary 2015 Bulang Gushu, which we still fondly remember and has long been sold out, this tea promises a similar allure.

Echoing the legacy of both the 2015 Bulang and the esteemed 5-Village Blend, this Bulang Gushu shares a unique connection – it is sourced from the tea fields of a former school friend of Yang Ming.

These teas are really good, and they may well be very type-typical for this origin and general style.  It doesn't work very well for a vendor to add lots of flavor list, because in the 4 years this aged that probably changed some.  Interpretations vary so much that I'm sympathetic to vendors skipping adding much initially, even as an early snapshot.  They need to say something, but the flavor-list approach is problematic.

Review:

2022 Bangwai:  I let these infuse for about a minute, to start opening up.  Unless you really pry the tea apart it will brew somewhat unevenly, with the outside starting early, and being relatively far along the transition cycle by the time the center is even wetted.  I can accept that; it doesn't throw off results much, it just changes them a little.

Feel has nice creaminess, even though this is still too light to clearly identify a lot of flavor.  It's in a floral general range.  It's bright and clean, probably with decent complexity, and pleasant sweetness.  The effect seems quite fresh; 3 years isn't that long, in moderately dry and cool storage.  More description to follow next round.

2021 Bulang:  a warmer tone is included in this.  It also expresses quite a bit of feel, for being so light, but it's different.  The other was light in tone and creamy, and this contains some structure already, a vague hint of dryness.  There's a really catchy flavor that I can't make out yet, and good overall balance.  These aren't the kind of teas where you throw out half of the early infusion that you don't make out as clearly; they're already quite good.

At the risk of brewing them a bit strong I'll give them another minute to infuse, and while they won't be completely wetted yet by the third round they'll be brewing more normally.  Two full minutes of infusion time is a lot, for that outer layer, but to me it's not as if the time the tea spends wet (under water) is the only brewing it does; it seems to continue to extract into the moisture in the leaf between those cycles anyway.

2022 Bangwai #2:  the Bulang version opened up a lot more.  It's interesting that the topic of how hard pressed a tea coin is never occurred to me before.  And I suppose I expect dragonball shapes to be really tightly pressed too, in a relatively uniform way.  Of course that could vary.

Warmer mineral depth comes out more than I expected.  Bright, fresh, sweet, floral tones are present, but the overall character is layered, and not light and bright in tone, more medium.  It integrates well.  It's still a bit creamy, but those warm tones and slightly more structured feel change overall character.  Beyond the vague floral description, and mineral, there is a substantial richness to the flavor, matching the feel, I guess along the line of macadamia nut.  It's really clean and complex, well-integrated, so an impression of quality comes across.

2021 Bulang:  this is a little strong (where the other hadn't been yet).  Dryness stands out more, and a very different warm mineral layer.  In this it resembles cedar, or maybe an incense spice.  That catchy aspect may have been a fruitiness, that's hard to identify, along with the cedar or spice tone.

2022 Bangwai #3:  light; I dropped back time a lot, maybe too much for this version, at this level of leaf separation.  I'll pull it apart for the next round.

Flavor is still bright, clean, and somewhat complex, even though it's subtle.

2021 Bulang:  this balances really well, brewed to a proper infusion strength.  That catchy aspect is some sort of fruit, along with a spice tone.  I should be able to describe that fruit tone better than I can.  Maybe it includes floral range, a mix, that is integrated, making it harder to separate.

2022 Bangwai #4:  this is an unusual experience, how it comes across as quite complex and also quite subtle (lacking intensity, I guess, put another way).  The rich flavor might be in the range of butter cookie instead of macadamia nut, or between the two.  Bright floral range is quite limited, but it still seems to be an input.  There is a mineral layer, it's just light, both in the sense of being light in tone and also not strong.  Somehow it comes across as fresh, and refined.

Bitterness is quite limited; as a sheng drinker, who is often appreciating even younger versions, I don't really notice it.  Maybe to someone more into oolong that would actually stand out some.

2021 Bulang:  stronger, for sure.  Bitterness is much more pronounced, and warm mineral, some degree of floral, and range I'm interpreting as both spice (or aromatic wood, cedar or redwood, maybe sandalwood) and some limited dried fruit all give it great complexity, and intensity.  There's a lot going on.  For sure the bitterness was a good bit stronger 4 years ago, and tones brighter.  This has mellowed into a very pleasant and drinkable character.  

It's interesting considering how this compares to a Legend of Tea Malaysia stored 2021 Bulang, reviewed here, three weeks ago.  It has been a long three weeks; that feels like over a month.  The write-up sounds pretty similar; the same basic flavor profile is expressed.  This is probably cleaner and more refined, and slightly lighter in tone.  I'm not sure it works to guess that it's better, but in a limited sense that's probably true, at a minimum related to preference for one type of character, and maybe to some extent in general.  This definitely lacks rough edges.  That tea had a sappy, perfume-like feel and associated flavor range; this sort of does, but probably not to that degree.  That tea was really good, exceptional for the price-point, and the quality of this is probably even better.  Or maybe it's that it is made in a more drinkable style, which is a different thing.

Put another way, expressed in more detail, that probably started out as more intense, with rougher edges, more bitterness and astringency, and had transitioned more by the time I tried it, perhaps arriving at a slightly warmer tone range.  For people more accustomed to factory tea that context and style could be better.  This might ring a bell more with people more on the page of boutique-style, drinkable when young tea versions, that are clean, sweet, and balanced, but not challenging, I suppose "giving up structure and intensity," if someone sees it that way.

2022 Bangwai #5:  this integrates all the better this round, with warmer spice tone entering in, resembling one part of the other tea.  Complexity and intensity really ramped up.  Maybe because I finally got timing right, and it's all wetted and brewing now?  It's not as if this has been challenging to brew, since results were really positive before, I'm just getting variation out of it.

Bitterness doesn't really stand out much, as sheng experience goes, but a little more of it balances nicely.  At least I can notice it.  The butter cookie / macadamia expression is nice, and light floral range, that I'm not really covering as much.

2021 Bulang:  perfume-like nature and sappiness ramp up; interesting.  Maybe because I'm looking for that?  But in that earlier review--of a different 2021 Bulang sheng--it ramped up across a number of infusions, as just occurred.  Dryness picks up a little too, but this is far from dry.  "Sappy" works.

Even though I'm in between the kids being here and the next travel step (I'll go back to Honolulu the day after tomorrow) I'm still busy, with a list of a few things to do to get ready, so again I'll cut this short.  One more round will work for catching final thoughts, or whatever I've missed.  Of course these teas are going strong, and will brew at least as many more rounds later, and of course I'll miss a couple of minor aspect transitions.

2022 Bangwai #6:  full, creamy, complex, and well-balanced, with flavors not so different than last round.  This flavor set, and other aspects, works really well for my preference.  Sometimes I'm describing a flavor range that could be fine, or even exceptional, but it just doesn't click with me as well as this does (like root-spice range sometimes doesn't).  This could even be interpreted as heavy on root spice, but it would be a light ginseng sassafras fullness, not a heavier bark spice oriented range, something more medicinal.

2021 Bulang:  brewed fast this round this is exceptional.  Intensity and complexity is great in both, and again this flavor and other aspect set seems very appealing to me.  Clean, balanced, and refined character is great.

So which is better, either in terms of general quality or a match to my preference?  Both are pleasant in novel ways.  The Bulang isn't challenging, at all, but it's more intense, and heavier in flavor range, with more bitterness offsetting that flavor set.  It's far from straight floral tones; the spice or aromatic wood tone might be even stronger, at this stage.  It all makes perfect sense together, to me.  These are in a great place for aging transition to integrate well just now.

It's all as I expected.  Really high expectations can be a challenge for a tea to be reviewed against, because any minor flaw or less favorable balance would stand out all the more.  Then when a tea is great it's just meeting those expectations; there is no exceeding them.  Even a novel flavor input or atypically positive feel aspect can only seem normal, if you go into it expecting a tea to be great.

There's a lot going on with these, so that I've cut short feel and aftertaste range descriptions.  There's some background noise as well; my wife is talking to our kids online about first week of school preparations (they just ended it, but hanging details remain, needing an extra binder or highlighter, and getting jet-lag sorted out).  I might've even added a couple more flavor aspect descriptions without that distraction.  This will do; the teas were great, as described.

Further conclusions:

Describing these as "really good" seems a bit limited.  They are, and the aspects seemed like what I've listed, but the clean nature, complexity, depth, and refinement are hard to pin down in a description.  This pricing may be more than I'd end up spending even if I had a loose budget, instead of very little of one to work with, but I get it why people open to that would drink teas like these.

It's hard to guess about longer term aging potential.  For as good as these are now I'd drink them right now, or within a year or so.  For someone with a wide open budget buying one to drink and one to age might be a good strategy.  That only goes so far, for these being sold as 200 gram cakes.  You could drink through one fast, if you weren't rationing it.  Which could work out; it's good tea.

I'm traveling now, for a month, and already miss them terribly

not exactly bonding, but at least Myra is adjusting to them being around

Tea Mania 2017 Bulang and 2018 Hekai gushu sheng pu'er

 

2017 Bulang left, in all photos

I'm reviewing the oldest of the Tea Mania sheng pu'er samples (sent by Peter, the owner, for review; many thanks!).  At these ages these won't be truly aged sheng versions, so this will be about where they are in that process, and how intermediate stage sheng work out, what being part-way through a fermentation cycle is like.  It would vary by the tea version, in relation to the starting point, so this should be interesting.

I'll start with the vendor's description of these:

Bulang Gushu 2017, (357 gram cake for $188 USD)

Experience the excellence of our Bulang Gushu, a remarkable tea born from the collaboration of Tea Masters Panda and Yang Ming. Crafted exclusively for us, they have meticulously captured our deep appreciation for Bulang teas. Stored for seven years in Xishuangbanna, this tea has matured beautifully, becoming wonderfully ripe and developing a subtle hint of camphor aroma. It evokes memories of the legendary 2015 Bulang Gushu—a favorite that has long since sold out—offering a similarly captivating allure.

Building upon the legacy of both the 2015 Bulang and the distinguished 5-Village Blend, this Bulang Gushu holds special significance—it originates from the tea gardens of Yang Ming’s former schoolmate. 

 

Hekai Gushu 2018,  (200 gram cake for $88, equivalent to $157 for a 357 gram cake)

These leaves, from the venerable 300-year-old Gushu trees of Hekai Shan, were skillfully processed into 200g Bingcha cakes at Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory. The tea distinguishes itself with a signature Hekai aroma, enriched by the deep, clear essence of the Gushu leaves and a subtle camphor nuance. Ideal for long-term aging, this tea’s flavor is designed to evolve and refine over time, embodying the essence of Hekai Gushu.

Funny camphor is almost the only flavor referenced in these; I wrote notes for the next review already and joked that maybe it would make more sense if I described them as tasting like camphor.  Typically that's a reference to a sub-tone that's not all that close to the camphor that stands out in balms or Thai scent sticks.  Or maybe people really are tasting that, but I tend not to.

Review:

Bulang #1:  warmer aged tones stand out initially; I suppose that's a good sign.  Per usual this will need another round or two to get going.  A flavor range along the lines of tobacco stands out, or that could be incense spice, or old furniture, antique tropical wood [or per the intro section theme, maybe camphor]. Brighter floral tones have probably evolved away.  Some bitterness remains, but this is approachable.

Hekai:  much brighter and sweeter; interesting.  A jammy sort of flavor stands out this early on.  It's towards a blueberry or black cherry jam.  There is some warmth to the character range, but not like in the other version.  A savory note rounds out that sweetness and cooked fruit range.  This should be interesting.

Bulang #2:  that first description still works: there's an interesting mix of complex, warm flavor tones.  It picks up a little depth; maybe a touch of marshmallow joins the rest.  Of course I wouldn't expect most people to make that association, especially within that context of warm tobacco, tropical wood, and incense spice tone range.  Feel has a bit of dryness, and plenty of structure.  That's not overly pleasant in this, and not negative, but it may relate to it having complexity that could support additional transitions, to aging potential.

Hekai:  root spice tones are dominant now, with a bit of fruit remaining.  By that I mean along the line of ginseng, so an alternate interpretation of herbal medicinal flavor would be saying the same thing.  Maybe it relates a little to sassafras too, tasting a little like root beer, just not much.  The lighter tone is nice, the brightness.  It matches well with the sweetness, and that flavor complexity.  Brewing both of these fast should work now; they're intense enough for that to work well.

Bulang #3:  to an extent intensity dropped back for trying out an infusion of less than 10 seconds, but in another sense this is still quite complex.  Feel stays full, and one part remains behind in aftertaste expression.  The warmer tones are a little less intense but it's still complex in that same way, still covering that same range.  There isn't that much floral range to speak of; that seems to have largely evolved away.  Bitterness is present but very moderate.  I suppose this is the kind of tea that match to preference would determine placement for, that some people would love this, and others not like it.  

It's not exactly at an in-between age that doesn't make sense, but it probably would have seemed more positive a few years ago, and will balance in a different positive way in a few more.  So in a sense that's it, but it still balances reasonably well now.

Hekai:  this definitely seems to make more sense at this current age.  The warm tones, good sweetness, and root spice all work together well.  It seems like another half dozen years of transitioning in the same direction might be quite positive, but it works well now too.  Feel is a bit richer and fuller, while the other includes a dryness that takes over what you notice.

It's interesting considering fermentation level; are these less transitioned than the 2021 versions I've been trying that were stored in Malaysia, and if so, how are they different?  Yes, to the first part. 7 and 8 years of transition doesn't add up to the same degree 4 or 5 did for those other teas (from Legend of Tea).  Change has been slower, more gradual.  I suppose heavier flavor range doesn't enter in as fast, instead of the level being a linear distance or amount sort of thing.

Bulang #4:  it's changing, but only related to the proportion of what I've already mentioned.  I suppose that it's softening, in a sense, with the flavors becoming warmer and richer.  Feel is also softening; that dryness is dropping out.  I suppose a green tone may also be picking up a little.  

This is a sort of in-between age theme, just not in a form I'm completely familiar with.  Warmer transitioned tones picked up quite a bit, with what I assume was earlier floral range shifting to now be expressed as green wood, earlier on more in the range of warmer aged tropical wood.

Hekai:  that spice note is catchy.  Maybe within a year or two this might make less sense, being more in-between, divided between where it is now and where it's headed.  For as gradually as these seem to be transitioning it might be a long wait to more fully aged character, possibly relating to another decade, depending on where it is stored next.  It would be a real shame if it just faded.  I'd guess that it won't, that it's intense enough now, even for dividing character across a significant range, that it will retain decent intensity for that longer term. 

Kalani helped take this picture; I usually leave the toast out of it

Bulang #5:  depth is good; a charcoal sort of mineral range picks up.  It stands out more than the green wood range that has evolved.  Tobacco still works as a main flavor interpretation.  

Hekai:  that interesting spice tone stands out, but some green wood range is fairly pronounced now too.  I think these aren't at the best stage for drinking just now, probably better younger, or much more aged.  They're pleasant, and clearly good tea, intense, complex, and balanced, but this fermentation level isn't a natural optimum.  I'm not sure what I expected, looking back.  Whatever storage they experienced--in comparison with the other two I've tried, and in general--doesn't push the pace of transition, so they would be right in between newish and aged.

Infusion #6, both:  more of the same, just slight differences in aspect balance.  To me both are at an age where it could be interesting trying them once a year to see what changes, but they're just not there for transition to a place that makes the most sense.  

Then the problem is that if you buy a small cake, 150 to 200 grams, if you try it even once a year for a decade it's mostly gone by the time it gets to where it's going.  I've bought two cakes of the same tea for this purpose before, to keep trying one, and to have one for later when it really does make more sense.  But are these a great prospect for that?

I'm not sure.  I can't really judge in relation to an in-between-age snapshot related to later direction and aging potential.  I haven't tried enough versions over a long enough time-frame to tell.  Even if I had been through that experience a few dozen times it may not be enough.  Different factors could always be entering into play, related to different storage conditions, different inputs that tie to aging potential (like origin, tea plant age as one factor, or processing style).  It would be easy to experience the same types of patterns over and over, and to skip entire ranges of inputs and outcomes.

Still, I should be able to guess, right?  Something must trigger some pattern recognition.  Not really though.  I've experienced more of factory tea themes, related to relatively fully aged versions.  Related to gambling on lower quality, more inexpensive cakes--which is easier, in terms of budget allocation--I'm more familiar with what tends to go wrong.  These aren't just fading; they avoid that limitation.  They are picking up a woody character, but that can be expressed in a different form that never does fade, a warmer, cured hardwood sort of tone.  As I take it this vegetal range these express will change over, I'm just not sure to what.  

So potential is good?  Maybe, I just can't really conclude that either.  It's promising that they are clean, complex, intense enough, and well-balanced, even though they are at two different places in intermediate aging transition stages.  The quality seems quite good, intensity is more of a concern, if they'll fade over the next decade, and then what aspects will be like once they change over.

Myra visiting early in the session

Tea Mania 2021 Jing Mai and 2022 Yiwu sheng pu'er

 

I'm reviewing two more sheng pu'er from Tea Mania, one of my all-time favorite sources, and one of the best value places to buy sheng pu'er on the internet.  These were sent by the owner, Peter, for review (many thanks for that!).  

I'll get around to saying a bit about value, but these are "gushu," old plant material versions, which are ordinarily out of my normal budget.  If I remember right his pricing doesn't typically reach up to $1 a gram, so it's not as high as has long since been conventional for many sources.  But you pay more for this range of teas expressing a bit more depth, and more mineral undertone, and potentially causing a slightly different body feel experience.

This ties in well to trying a number of sheng pu'er from a Malaysian source, from Legend of Tea.  I've been having trouble placing those within the higher end of the quality scale, and comparison with these could help.  I still may not be familiar with the absolute best of the best quality sheng pu'er sold anywhere for any price, but teas from this source are always really good, pretty far up the practical part of that scale.

I typically cite vendor listings, to let them add a description, and to cite pricing, but I don't see the 2021 Jing Mai version listed.  I'll add another different year citation here, but of course even if the tea had been identical different aging would make it different:

Jing Mai Gushu, 2017 (not 2021), listing for $112 USD (90 CHF) for 250 grams

 

That pricing is equivalent to $160 for a 357 gram cake, or 45 cents per gram, on the fair side for gushu material, if it matches expectations for that type range (which is never just one thing)..

Together with our friend, Tea Master Panda, we went to Jing Mai to find the ideal Gushu tea leaves. Thoes leaves have been processed in Yang Mings tiny tea factory to traditional 250g Bingcha.

For this Bingcha we used Pu-erh tea leaves of up to several hundred years old tea trees (Gushu) from Da Ping Zhang in Jing Mai and stone pressed. The tea garden with the old tea trees is located at about 1600m. The the top of the mauntain forms a plateau instead of a peak. Therefore, all tea leaves are grown on a similar altitude.

Harvest: Spring 2017

Pressed: 2017

Taste: Mild and fruity with a sweet aftertaste

Terroir: Jing Mai, Puer prefecture, Yunnan province, China.

Yiwu Gushu 2022  ($106 USD for a 200 gram cake)

This pricing equates to $190 for a 357 cake, or 53 cents a gram.

 

These exceptional leaves have been expertly processed in Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory into traditional bingcha Pu-erh tea cakes.

Yiwu Gushu 2022 is crafted from tea leaves harvested from ancient tea trees, some over 300 years old (Gushu), located in the renowned Yiwu region. The tea bears a striking resemblance to our immensely popular Lucky Bee, sharing the distinctive Yiwu aroma. Additionally, it offers the well-known depth and clarity characteristic of Gushu leaves, along with a subtle hint of camphor...

Yang Ming is a local tea farmer from Yiwu, descended from a family with a long-standing tradition in Pu-erh production. His tea fields are the source of our beloved Lucky Bee teas...

Harvest: Spring 2022

Pressed: 2022

Aroma: Mild and sweet with a typically Gushu aftertaste

Terroir: Yiwu Shan, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan province of China

For lower cost versions that are still really pleasant that Lucky Bee line mentioned represents unusual value.  But this is about reviewing the gushu versions.

they press tea coins for use as samples, with that form involving some trade-offs

Review:

2021 Jing Mai gushu:  that's really fruity for Jing Mai.  It's so complex that even for an initial long soak to get the tea coin opened up I'd need to use a few descriptors to unpack what fruit is being expressed.  Maybe along the line of red raspberry, mostly, or possibly even dried red raspberry.  Bitterness isn't even started yet, but then this is brewed light, for only the outer part of the coin being wetted so far.

2022 Yiwu gushu:  sweetness and floral range stand out in this right away.  There's already a different kind of depth in this, not just the mineral undertone, which is going to stand out in both to some extent, but along the line of spice, or maybe aromatic tropical wood.  Even the next round isn't going to cover where these actually are, related to them still opening up, so I'll say a little about second round and do a flavor list breakdown on the third.

Jing Mai #2:  fruity, complex, well-balanced; this will be nice.

Yiwu:  interesting that this expresses more depth; I tend to think of Yiwu as being mostly floral, sweet, round and full, and approachable.

It's an option to try to tear these coins apart after a second brewing round, but they're too solid still for that to make sense to me.  Maybe I'll tease them apart a bit more after another longer soak.  Of course this is going to cause some of the tea to be on the 4th infusion when some is just starting out, but that doesn't ruin the experience, it just causes a different type of complexity, trying it at different infusion stages mixed together.  Not optimum, according to many, but it's fine, it works.  The dragonball form seems even worse, to me; getting that fully infused takes awhile.

Jing Mai #3:  pine does finally enter in, not so much the subdued pine forest effect I kept talking about in reviewing a recent Jing Mai version, but actual fresh needle flavor.  Then this is also still quite fruity.  The balance is really nice.  It's odd how limited bitterness expression and the distinctive astringency is; this is very approachable.  Flavors are bright and fresh; 4 years of aging hasn't led to a warmer tone, or offset bright notes.  Maybe these were stored somewhere in Yunnan?

Yiwu:  there is plenty of floral range to this, and an interesting spice tone.  Some of the sweetness could be interpreted as relating to citrus, but only a touch of it, maybe to dried tangerine peel.  These taste good.  Balance is great, freshness is nice, sweetness is high, and complexity is good.  I think a mineral base is playing more role in tying it all together than it's easy to notice; it doesn't stand out.  They're both really clean and intense.  

This is probably only the start of them tasting like they will across the middle rounds, not even there yet.  Maybe some of the initial brightness and freshness, the early round effect, is nice for being mixed in across rounds, from the hard middle getting wet later.  If they were challenging that would be the opposite, that the tea loosening up would be taking awhile, but they're not.  I'll keep going with long soaks to get the initial infusion process going, to get the middle soaked.

Jing Mai #4:  transitions might be harder to identify since new tea at the center of the coin keeps getting wetted for the first time each round.  At least this is bright, sweet, fresh, fruity, and complex, very pleasant.  Mouthfeel changes; it picks up some fullness.  Aftertaste intensity might be ramping up too.  That pine note isn't too piney; it mixes fresh needle effect with a bit of pine cone flavor, with fruit standing out more.

Yiwu:  it's hard to describe how rich and complex the floral range is.  It's nice.  I wouldn't necessarily keep aging this; it's in a great place right now.  It would be interesting seeing how floral tones become even warmer and richer over 2 or 3 more years, but then you'd be trading out some freshness and brightness, and once it switches towards fully fermented aspect range to me you would have probably lost what represents this tea's most pleasant potential.

There's very limited bitterness, and some fullness of feel, some structure, but it's the opposite of challenging.  A longer soak might finally get to the next place in the transition cycle for both.

Jing Mai #5:  the pine note switches over from also tasting like pine cone to expressing mostly spice.  That's stronger than the fruit now, kind of balancing, but more within that spice and vegetal range.  Vegetal makes it sound like a claim this tastes like green bean or grass; it's not that.  Pine cone or aged tropical hardwood are vegetal, just not in an ordinary sense.  

Yiwu:  savory edge picks up in this, tied to the list of flavors I keep describing.  This doesn't seem like the floral-intensive, less balanced Yiwu I've mostly tried in the past.  The warm towards tropical hardwood part people would probably interpret differently, as spice instead, or some form of dried fruit, maybe on to more exotic descriptions outside of food range, tasting like a particular type of clean canvas, or like a wicker chair.

Jing Mai #6:  I'm usually saying that I've got to go do something right about now, and today it's a doctor's appointment.  Eye is feeding the kittens for me or I'd be on break for that right now; I'm more or less mother to two month old kittens just now.  I finally tore these two coins in two, the first attempt at making them fully open the manual way.

That's so good!  I've been drinking this tea for 5 rounds, so it shouldn't come as a surprise, but the final push of intensity from it finally fully brewing all of the tea is really something.  Feel depth changed, and something along the line of an aromatic wood note entered in, like cedar or redwood, or maybe even sandalwood.  Sweetness is pronounced too, and there is some fruit balancing that, and a touch of pine.  The complexity is great.  I could relate to someone saying that Jing Mai teas aren't necessarily for them in a recent review citation, but this is something different, not just pine with a touch of floral tone.

Yiwu:  this includes a comparable warm spice-like or aromatic wood tone range, and richer, deeper floral range, perhaps with just a hint of citrus, so it's comparable, but completely different.  They harmonize with each other, filling similar roles in different ways, just a bit off-key from each other, but in a way that balances.

A savory experience is unique in this.  It's almost a touch of sun-dried tomato entering in, along with all the rest.  It's not at all what I expected, more of a sweet and complex floral range experience.  

Trading out transition speed and clarity for these coins taking awhile to get wet kind of worked out, since these will keep changing over a few more rounds, and continue on as interesting and well-balanced way past 10 rounds.  Eventually a more brewed-out bitterness will enter in, but it will help that these were so approachable through the first long stage.

I'm going to blasted by these teas; powering through 14 rounds is a lot.  It could help that the infusions weren't overly intense, as I'm prone to cause when using 9 grams of already loose material.

Jing Mai #7:  again, as for all of these rounds, that fruit note is amazing.  It's so complex that it must relate best to a mix of different fruits.  Dried raspberry may be a main theme, but there's more to it.  Gradually increasing light bitterness and a fuller, dryer feel are pleasant.

Yiwu:  this experience integrates so well that breaking it down to 3 or 4 main parts mis-represents how you actually experience it.  It's good.  It's going to be hard to place how much better these are than the Legend of Tea versions, but they are a little better, even beyond lots of difference just relating to preference or character differences.  Both could be equivalent amazing value.

Conclusions:

I've concluded so much already!  The teas were just great.  I had made it sound like they were going to brew 15 great rounds based on starting so slowly but at 10 or 12 the effects of pushing the outer material to brew faster started to show, and some characteristic late-round bitterness and green wood effect entered in, mixing with flavors I described in the first 6 or 8 rounds in the notes.  They still brewed a full cycle, over 10 rounds, but there was no free lunch related to the interior taking awhile to get soaked, so they didn't make it to 15.

Is there any one or more aspect or character ranges that sets them apart as gushu?  One part of the vendor description mentioned depth and clarity (as related), and another referenced aftertaste expression being different, or more intensive.  All of that was impressive.

I think clarity is worth considering further.  I might reference an overlapping aspect I refer to as refinement, when a tea isn't just complex, intense, pleasant, and so on, but expresses something else.  I see it as the opposite side of not expressing flaws, as going further in the other direction.

Is that worth shifting to paying 50 cents a gram for a tea instead of 30-some, beyond flavor aspects just being positive?  I suppose it depends on tea budget.  It should definitely be an easier judgment call to make at 50 cents a gram instead of $1.  But then character and quality level become quite complicated, and it doesn't work to say that lots of range of versions are equivalent, all based on one input.  These teas are better than some of what I've tried represented as gushu from elsewhere, but I can't compare them to the entire range of the best of what is on the market (of course).

I think you need to drill down to more local areas to even discuss what is most type-typical; comparison at the broad region level muddies the discussion.  Then distinct styles could enter in.

It's harder to say if these are clearly better teas than the last two I tried, because aging issues also factor in, and complicate things (and comparing Mang Jing and Jing Mai may not be apples to apples, back to the last point).  This Jing Mai version is really something; I suppose it is probably just better, and you can set aging issues aside.  That Bulang version from 2021, equivalent in age to these, was really in a favorable place.  It was far more fermented; these retained a lot of the earlier character, which in this case was also favorable, since they were fresh, sweet, complex, approachable, and very well balanced.  Since the per-gram pricing was around half of these for that maybe it's a partial victory for that tea, related to value.  

But these teas were so exceptional, for what they are, that to me it doesn't reduce to being that simple.  You really probably can't find experience like this for considerably less.  I'm not completely sold on the gushu theme as something I would need to regularly experience, that extra depth and clarity, but I also can't really discount it as irrelevant.  

Tea Mania also sells "arbor" teas; they carry the other intermediate range that people bring up.  It costs less.  The extra rough edges or slight limit in some intensity range isn't considerable, not a night and day difference, but it is different.  Their Lucky Bee Yiwu line I recommend that people can buy a cake of without tasting a sample; it's that pleasant and consistent, and that good a value, but of course it's not the same as these.

Would these two teas necessarily age better for being gushu (a claim that also comes up, just less so at the current time than a decade ago, back when this was all sorting out more)?  Probably not.  I see that as relating to certain style, to high levels of distinct types of intensity, in general terms to teas expressing more astringency and bitterness when young (new).  

I think that these would go through very favorable intermediate transition stages, when stored in a cooler and dryer place than Malaysia, as we are seeing 3 and 4 years after production now.  But at a guess I don't think it would make sense, to me, to keep these around to re-try them as 15 to 20 year old tea versions.  They're great now, and will continue to express great moderately aged character for a few more years, before they reach that in-between stage.  Stored in a cool and dry enough place they won't be in that in-between range at a decade old yet, when character can make less sense, they'll be preserved, but there may be a trade-off in slowing and stretching out that process.  But that part is idle speculation, not even a guess.

Tea Mania sells 2012 and 2014 Jing Mai gushu versions; someone could check on that aging transition guess, by buying them.  That 2012 version sells as a 357 gram cake for $187; it's not bad for good material tea of that age.  That could work as a tasting set theme.  I looked up what they offer for those and there's only one, here, including varying origins and ages of sheng pu'er (listing for $37 for 56 grams of seven different teas; not bad).

a recent make-up birthday party, really an excuse to eat ice cream cake

Meeting William Osmont of Farmerleaf

 

trying khao soy, a favorite Northern Thai curry noodle dish

Typically meeting someone and having tea with them isn't a novel enough theme to write about, but this was especially interesting.  I've talked online with William for years; he was active in tea forum and group discussions since prior to when I started blogging, over 11 years ago.  Here's an interview post with him from 2017.  I had bought Farmerleaf tea more at one point, and regularly reviewed versions, but have moved on to other sources.

Let's start there, and get the awkward part out of the way.  What I've said online about Farmerleaf could be taken as meaning that they had been a good value source for pu'er, and for good black tea, Dian Hong, my favorite black tea style, but now aren't, having increased pricing over the years.  Part of that is what I've said; all pu'er vendors have increased pricing quite a bit over the last decade, and Farmerleaf is no different.  Their cakes were selling for $40 or 50 8 or 9 years ago, and now it's $90 to 120, for a basic quality range.  So how is it still a good value?

They've improved quality of what they sell over that time (per my impression, but then maybe I'm not the right person to know).  It's a natural shift, for vendors to cater to whatever demand the market provides, and that pattern holds for other vendors too.  Yunnan Sourcing Impression cakes, their in-house benchmark tea line, shifted from $40 versions to around the $100 range over that timeframe, presented as better quality tea.  They're surely better now, not as much "generic" blends, onto better quality, more carefully created and exceptional versions.  Prices for everything have increased, not just tea, but especially for above average sheng pu'er.

My focus on budget as a primary constraint relates to my own tea budget being tight, all the time.  I work in Thailand, in a Thai company, and my salary matches the cost of living here.  I now live part-time in Honolulu, where my kids go to school, and that has stretched that SE Asian income to the breaking point.  So I've been buying teas from Vietnam and Thailand more lately, at exceptional value for buying directly from small producers, or from Viet Sun, which is transitioning through the same theme, sourcing better teas over time, and then increasing pricing range.  

Farmerleaf teas are surely a decent value, if spending around $100 on cakes seems fine (357 gram standard sized versions).  William passed on some samples; I'll have lots more to say about that theme in more detail, and the rest of this makes a short start into it.

Back to more about William then.  It was also great to meet his wife and son; they're both wonderful.  But this is mostly about our discussion about tea, so more of what he said.  Of course his wife is also a tea producer and expert, and she offered some input too, but this will be more about him, not really attributing any input to her, even though she did offer some.  

His tea preferences

This part was especially interesting to me; what would he look for and value in teas?  Would it relate to a certain style or flavor preference, or for some other aspect?  In a word:  intensity.  Intensity can mean strong flavors, but it can also relate to fullness of feel, both of which tend to carry over to aftertaste expression, to sweetness and bitterness being present at significant levels, and to depth, covering some range.  According to William you can make processing adjustments to vary tea character but you can't get mediocre material to express intensity.  You can brew teas strong to push them, or drink it extra young, and so on, but the material only has so much to offer.  All that seems to work.

What are the limitations of this primary focus?  This part is more speculation.  There's no reason why you couldn't look for one primary characteristic and also appreciate others, and for sure William is doing that.  Beyond intensity the flavor range expressed varies, depth is really kind of a different thing, and balance is something else, how it all comes together.  My impression is that none of this is lost on William, even though he really loves sheng intensity, and sees it as a main quality marker.

Who doesn't?  We've talked before about how this may be a big part of why other tea types lose appeal once someone switches over to sheng pu'er preference.  I've said this over and over again, mostly while reviewing oolongs.  Those can be fantastic but you feel that lack of intensity, even though you can stay open to those other styles of tea, and tea experiences.  Somehow the depth and comfort of black tea remains very desirable, to me, and I can still appreciate all the other tea range, even green tea, my least favorite, but I keep coming back to craving sheng, and mostly drink young sheng.  Flavors are intense, mouthfeel is intense, and even though I don't "get" cha qi, body feel, to the extent some describe it that's part of it too.

Tea processing

I won't do this part justice, but we talked some about the processing steps and variations that lead to positive sheng and black tea character, and aspects.  Until I get some real life exposure to processing tea leaves I'll never have much to add about this, and even conveying what others say will be of limited usefulness, since I won't be able to interpret it very well.  Of course I've been hearing from tea producers for a decade about processing steps, and their own unique approaches, opportunities (from working with distinctive tea material), or challenges.

For sheng it's all pretty much what you'd already expect.  One interesting tangent was about more-oxidized South East Asian sheng versions.  I've speculated over and over that Thai and Vietnamese producers may be oxidizing tea more to change the character, which can offset bitterness and astringency, but which comes at a cost in terms of aging potential.  That's kind of a loaded concept, aging potential, bringing in a lot of other moving parts, and preference factors.  Aged sheng is a different kind of thing, and our discussion focused more on parts related to younger / newer versions.  It's possible that Thai and other producers wouldn't even need to try to let tea rest / wither to increase oxidation input, that they may just not get to it quickly, and the heat and humidity might start to change the tea fast.

William didn't even need to try one of my favorite Thai sheng versions to notice that the color was quite dark for a year-old version (golden, instead of light gold).  Some producers mention using a long withering process to add oxidation, and William discussed that a bit, how it works in practice.

It was all too much to convey here in detail.  Finer points of what can vary in pu'er and black tea processing were fascinating to hear about.  As I see it as a tea consumer we are kind of off the hook when it comes to that level of mapping anyway.  In the end we need to be able to find and buy teas we like, and then appreciate them, but the parts entering in before that are a bit academic, potentially interesting, or even informative, but not a main concern.  It really wouldn't work for producers and then vendors to map out slight variations in processing inputs to help consumers filter what they might like best using that input.  There are too many variables.  Knowing that a Shai Hong is a bit less oxidized is a good example of how very limited information might be interesting and helpful.  

It may help to know more about the different inputs to buy better teas, beyond that level.  Patterns in aspects or sources of teas could make more sense.  Or to seek out better value?  That part is always tricky.  What we value others tend to value, then the market pushes up pricing level.  It can help exploring new tea range, staying one step ahead of that deeper part of the demand curve, but drinking some so-so or bad tea enters in, along with trying very novel forms, and some exceptional versions.  

The last range I tried that was really novel, beyond the Thai and Vietnamese teas being exceptional in slightly unique ways, related to Georgian tea, and before that Indonesian versions, then before that Nepal teas.  Getting hooked on pu'er messed up that shifting exploration theme a bit; the other material and styles can't match pu'er intensity, or even complexity.  For where I am personally the exploration phase has tapered off some, and I get to what I get to, but I'll skip including more tangent about that here.

What we tried

We started with some teas I had brought, to see what he made of them.  His take was mixed; of course he is accustomed to trying some pretty good range.  It's not that he is biased towards narrow Yunnan styles, but if Thai teas are pretty good, based on pretty good material, and not quite standard processing, there are aspects and outcomes to appreciate but it's all not ideal.  The best Yunnan versions are drawing on a much more developed background.

We tried a decent sheng version of his earlier on, one that represented the lower end of his quality range.  This ties back to that earlier theme of value, and what the trade-offs would be if he was trying to keep closer to the earlier, lower sheng pricing range.  It was good, it just lacked a bit of intensity, and the character lacked depth.  It wasn't flawed, and also not thin or uninteresting, but a little towards that.  

A shou version was better, placed within that range, but I don't really love shou as much.  It's nice trying good versions of it, but I've been doing that, for awhile.  They just sit in my tea storage, when I come by that, and I drink that when I fast (not eat for five days at a time), because it's easier on your stomach.

A Laos sheng version was exceptional (I think maybe this one).  I might've tried about as much Laos tea as almost anyone, or at least anyone not in Laos, or not selling Laos tea.  I first visited a Laos coffee and tea farm before this blog even started, a few years before; it was one of the earlier teas I tried after Thai oolongs.  I've written about countless teas from Anna and Kinnari Tea, and have tried plenty of samples from a friend there (thanks to Somnuc), and some of a somewhat newish production venture.  

This version probably surpassed them all.  Intensity was good, of course, and flavor range was quite positive, sweet and floral, almost towards a citrusy edge, but not quite onto lemon or orange.  The tea was very balanced and refined, with fantastic clean character, depth, and complexity.  I guess this is the kind of exceptional tea that you can only buy if you can go past that $120 per cake range I'd mentioned (it's $140, if it is that one).  Is that a good value?  It would cost a lot more if it was from nearby Yiwu, essentially just across the border.  Since this specific version is essentially impossible to find there is no market price for it.  Related to quality it was amazing; I guess that part works out.

Maybe we had tried more; it went on and on.  Hours and hours into tasting it all kind of runs together, and it was fascinating hearing William's take on philosophy, and the state of the US, about China, and whatever else we talked about.

William and I are both pro-China in two different senses.  He can almost be an expat resident patriot, at this point, and he is sold on the overall positive balance of Chinese culture and life in China.  I'll just cite one example of that discussion, not so much about local Chinese patriotism, but about a misconception about China in "the West."  We talked about social credit scoring, about how China really did experiment with the systems that we are familiar with and critical of in other countries, particularly in the US.  His take is that those experiments didn't lead to a pervasive system that really does control people, or even continue to monitor them, and it was largely dropped because the earlier start wasn't promising.  

Of course China is really keeping an eye on its citizens, but then so is the US, and to some extent so is Thailand.  Maybe the form and related restrictions vary in the three places, and in the US it's possible there are less restrictions (maybe not enough, across some scope), but it's not as if people in China can't do or say a lot of things.  Being anti-government might not go over well, but according to William most people are ok with most of the government policies and everyday living status.  They don't see themselves as oppressed.  That mirrors talking to a Chinese friend, one of my daughter's former classmates (who of course is from China); they don't see the differences there as so significant.

As with here in Thailand much lower crime rates and far fewer problems with drug epidemics, gang violence, and homelessness frees people, to a greater extent.  I can walk around almost anywhere in Bangkok at any time of the day or night.  I've not tested that out by walking in remote or poorer parts in the middle of the night (but I have in the evening), and I suppose eventually that might go badly, but in essence there are no "no go" zones.  In visiting China three times in the past I felt pretty safe there too.  Of course there is relatively little meaning in that; input related to living in a city for 17 years and visiting tourist areas for two or three weeks are relatively opposite things.  

It's a very developed, modern country, from what I've seen, not really any different than anywhere else, beyond everywhere you travel feeling just a little different.  William commented that the old-style look of the food-street restaurants in my favorite Bangkok strip of those isn't how China looks almost anywhere now, the steel tables, plastic chairs, and bright white fluorescent lighting, common across SE Asia.  They've moved on.  I like that about Bangkok; losing that part would kind of be a shame.  Of course there are a broad range of restaurant themes here.

It was fascinating hearing about a two-tier election system in France, about how they use two voting stages to let people vote for diverse parties initially, then do a second and final selection process based around coalitions that form after the first round.  I don't think this could work as a fix for the two-party limitation in the US, but it's interesting hearing about a different country using a different process, that leads to more diversity in party options.

Conclusions, take-aways

It was too much to summarize to just a few simple conclusions, but this writing already points towards a few.  We talked more about social media themes, and tea vendor approaches, but it didn't condense to points that would stand alone well in summary form here.  

Everyone who has had even limited exposure to William's take on the internet, in very informative Youtube videos on tea processing background, already knew that he is a true tea enthusiast.  Here's an interesting example of that, in his own online content, comparing tea versions and asking if gushu versions are really worth it.  His own "tea geek" interest and perspective takes a relatively narrow form, as I see it, but then that's typically how that goes.  You'd need to limit scope to go that deep, and a Yunnan producer and vendor should be an expert on pu'er and Yunnan black tea.  

Here's another very different video on perspective on the Covid experience that stood out to me, him conveying a philosophical view of how we relate within society, and what those kinds of traumatic broad events mean.  We covered some philosophy in discussion too; of course I'll spare you an account of that.

I really thought that William would be a little quirkier; if anything that was a little disappointing.  He's a bit out there, don't get me wrong, but for being a French pu'er expert he falls a little short of really being eccentric (no offense intended to Olivier; he's fine too).  He's even completely relatable; all for the best, I guess.  Sometimes it's hard for people so far down the path of exploring tea to stay open to a range of different perspectives, but it's nice when they can, and he's pretty open to people experiencing teas in different ways.

To me one potential pitfall of sheng pu'er exploration is people "chasing the dragon" related to quality and diversity concerns; there's always more to seek out and experience.  There is more intensity, complexity, refinement, novel flavor sets, trendy origin areas, unique styles, and so on to try.  That's fine, as long as all the comparisons and next steps don't lead to a FOMO based experience of gaps, and chasing status, instead of focus on appreciation of that experience.  

It wouldn't be the vendor or producers' fault if people approached their tea interest in a problematic way, and I see William as appreciating a good bit of range, not steering others to always try more and spend more.  Any more than any other vendor, I guess.  The tea experience promotes itself, once you get started.  

In beginner online group discussion I usually recommend people might start on oolong and black tea first, to avoid pu'er early on, and stay out of the deep end of the pool related to that more intense cycle of exploration.  Bitterness requires some acclimation anyway, for young sheng, but it's also a lot to take on sorting out the range of styles, origins, sources, storage themes, and varying experiences.  Once someone goes there they probably should cycle through some Farmerleaf tea at some point, and saying more in reviews about samples will add detail to why I think that.