I'm reviewing a sample of tea given to me by a local Chinatown shop owner, from the K. Mui Kee Tea shop. I stopped by my favorite shop near there, Jip Eu, to buy tea as a gift for a local monk, for an event, and they were closed due to building repairs on their shop (the roof awning was damaged; a part of it fell).
![]() |
that shop owner is so nice, but I'm always visiting Jip Eu instead, since I know them |
The tea I bought looked and smelled great, a wild origin black tea, but I don't have any of that to try and review. But they did give me a sample of Dan Cong, so I'm reviewing it along with a version from Moychay. Moychay just sent a mix of lots of samplers, as a thanks for helping with some editing, so I'll use them for comparison versions, when it works out.
There won't be any final type description of this Chinatown tea. Maybe they mentioned a type range, or maybe they didn't. I think the owner said that it's not Mi Lan Xiang, but I don't remember if he mentioned what it is. He said that it's from an old plant source, and that it's really high in quality, and he mentioned a price, but I don't remember that. It seemed high. It probably should be; it's really good.
Here are the Moychay listing details:
Nanjing Wild Dancong Oolong (Nanjing Yesheng Dancong Cha) (it's about $38 for 50 grams)
Nanjing Wild Dancong Oolong is an exceptionally rare tea harvested from abandoned old tea gardens and wild tea trees in the high mountains of Nanjing County, Fujian Province. The tea originates from Dancong cultivars that were once cultivated but have since grown wild for several decades, blending naturally with undomesticated tea trees in remote forested terrain.
The tea is hand-harvested each spring in extremely limited quantities—no more than 50 kilograms per year. Locating and gaining access to these trees took years of searching, as the gardens are known only to a handful of locals and remain largely hidden deep in the mountains.
The leaves are picked as one bud with two or three mature leaves and processed using traditional methods: withering, oxidation, fixation, rolling, and drying. The dry leaves are large, twisted, and wild in appearance, with a deep forest fragrance.
When brewed, Nanjing Wild Dancong produces a golden liquor with an arresting aroma—earthy, woody, with hints of tropical flowers and resin. The flavor is intense yet clean, with deep minerality, vibrant energy, and a lasting sweet-bitter balance that reflects the strength of its wild roots. It holds up to long and multiple steepings, revealing its complex, layered personality over time.
That sounds good, but the character seemed in between conventional Dan Cong range and typical good Taiwanese oolong character, maybe closer to the latter. That's still exceptional, but perhaps not what people seeking out novel Dan Cong experience are looking for.
It's crazy that I'm reviewing two Dan Cong versions without mentioning a type name / fragrance category. There probably is one, related to the Bangkok Chinatown tea, but that description is a decent reason for why there isn't one for the second.
This might be the black tea I just bought, looking for more background on this Dan Cong. If that is it that sold for 850 baht ($25) for 175 grams, or 14 cents a gram. If it tasted as good as it smelled it's a steal at that pricing. I should give some to another monk, and tell him I need to pinch some to try it for review.
You can get a limited sense of how this is going to go from the dry leaf appearance, which isn't how tastings usually work out.
Review:
K. Mui Kee Tea Wudong Songzhong: this brews so much darker than the other that a main difference is surely going to be oxidation level, probably coupled with a difference in roast input. You could see that in the dry leaves; the reddish color base is what oxidized versions would tend to look like, and the dark green with lighter green in the tips is normal for lighter oolong.
I'm not sure the type of this. It's sort of floral, but at the same time fruity. It's not exactly like Mi Lan Xiang, although it could be that, and it just happens to express a good bit of ripe peach as well. [editing note: I mean it could be that from my limited ability to match the taste; as I recall the shop owner said it's not Mi Lan Xiang, since he mentioned that he sells a lower quality, lower cost version of that, but this is something else].
This form seems perfect, the way that oxidation, and surely some roast, combine to integrate those rich, layered flavors. The material had to be really favorable to make this, but they also got the processing just right.
Even brewed light, on the first round, it's intense, with a rich feel, and lots of flavor depth and complexity. It carries over aftertaste effect. I really should be able to pin down the primary flavor, but may never in this.
Moychay Nanjing Yesheng Dan Cong: it's a completely different style, of course. It comes across almost like other forms of oolong, like something out of Taiwan, for being this light. Intensity is still pretty good, and creaminess is pleasant. It's not the most type-typical for Dan Cong preparation, but it works.
Feel is pleasant, and there's a richness and complexity to this too, and even depth. Flavors are in a much lighter range, but overall intensity is good. Again the lighter floral range reminds me of Taiwanese high mountain oolong. A unique and good version of one, but it's still in that range.
People sometimes discuss brewing around a characteristic astringency in Dan Cong, and these aren't harsh at all. There's fullness to both, but no edge. I think that relates more to low elevation grown, lower quality versions.
KMK Songzhong #2: this tastes more like almond this round; maybe it's that flavor type? It still includes great warm mineral depth, and some degree of floral and fruit range. It's complex. There's a pleasant liqueur like character to it, like cognac, brandy, or perfume. The intense flavor really coats your mouth, as the feel does. This is clearly a very good quality tea. I forget the selling price for it but it was quite high, which I suppose is justified, given how nice this is.
M Nanjing: tones warm in this. It includes even more mixed floral range, which I can't place. This might relate to three different flower scents, but one part is most pronounced. A little of a green wood sort of astringency picks up, but it's so faint that green wood isn't a natural interpretation of it. Maybe it's closer to spruce pine buds, for anyone who has ever tasted that. It's like the more vegetal part of sage, which works out to actually be a complex scent and flavor range.
It's difficult for this to compare or compete with the other, related to my own preference, given how much I like that warmer toned, more balanced Dan Cong style. But within the lighter style this expresses it's good. It's interesting that it includes creaminess; that's more a different oolong range entirely.
Switching back to the other the perfume-like scent range stands out, and a light form of completely different feel. A spice like cinnamon might include warm flavors, and it might also affect the feel in your mouth, and this (other Chinatown Dan Cong) is like that. Not taking a tablespoon of dry cinnamon, I don't mean, but the much milder effect from a good bit of cinnamon being put on toast, of course with butter and sugar.
KMK Songzhong #3: a little lighter, related to forward flavors, but the depth is as strong as ever. I'm brewing this quite fast, and could extend the time to over 10 seconds next time, instead of under that. It's quite pleasant brewed light though, since the flavor is already intense, and the feel doesn't become thin. Sweetness stands out well brewed light.
This is so complex that it doesn't really match the more typical one note sort of main flavor effect of Dan Cong. There probably is one, that I'm not catching, but it expresses a range of flavors.
M Nanjing: even though I love the other style more this holds its own relatively well. It's also complex and full, with pretty good aftertaste expression. Related to my own preference the much lighter flavor tone isn't as nice, but that part could be subjective. It includes a little vegetal range, which isn't really a flaw, but it's different than the other only hitting positive, integrated flavor notes. This is still mostly floral in flavor range, with creaminess actually tasting a little like cream.
KMK Songzhong #4: it's stronger, brewed stronger, but the perfume like intensity was already good last time. The feel becomes more structured, and warmer tones stand out more. A spice-like aspect range is more present, not unlike cinnamon, but maybe broader than that, including more than one spice flavor. Almond is still present, and it didn't completely drop warm floral and rich fruit range. All of that is bundled within a narrow and integrated range, even though it's quite complex. Or maybe it's that it all connects somehow, that it matches and links together. It's an interesting effect.
M Nanjing: this is still quite pleasant, not so different than the last round, just a little heavier for being brewed longer. Again this is in between a conventional high mountain oolong style, and typical Dan Cong. Maybe just backing off the oxidation level input leads to that effect, but I'd guess in this case the "wild origin" plant type is playing a role. It's interesting that the wild origin plant seems to taste a lot like a Qing Xin variation, the older set of plant types used in Taiwan.
later rounds: I tried these over a number of additional rounds, of course. Both stayed quite pleasant for awhile, not changing in particularly interesting or unexpected ways. Feel grew stronger and dryer in the Chinatown version, while the Moychay tea stayed smooth and full until the end. Both were made from exceptionally high quality tea material, just in two relatively opposite processing styles.
Conclusions:
Now I wonder how much that Chinatown version cost. $1 a gram pricing is pretty much unheard of locally (the Moychay version was 76 cents a gram, not quite that), so it really could sell for a lot less and still seem expensive, per local norms. I should ask that shop owner and add it here, after I finish this post, as a later edit.
That tea probably is worth at least $1 a gram; good Dan Cong is in high demand, and that version is pretty far up the scale. If it's something like $2 that's too much, no matter how good it is, or how old a plant source is, even if that's still a normal market rate.
I've been trying some pretty exceptional teas recently, which has me considering just what it means for a tea to be about as good as a style or type gets. That last Fu zhuan was amazing, and the two green teas (from Viet Sun and Moychay) were really good. Even the last Thai sheng and black tea from Wawee Tea were pretty much as good as anything I've had from Thailand, although I think in that case it related more to a match to my own preference than to an atypical quality issue. Quality level was good, very favorable, but they also happened to be just what I like.
As a sheng pu'er drinker I can sometimes really miss that intensity and general character, when I try these other exceptional versions. Maybe less so with the Fu zhuan; that depth, complexity, and refinement really transcended the normal type range, for those. With Dan Cong complexity is often favorable, in spite of what I just said about them tending to taste like one flavor, as they are marketed, but depth and refinement really sets the type apart. But I still miss the way that sheng hits; it's hard to acclimate to the lower intensity.
Related to the Moychay Dan Cong tasting like Taiwanese oolong, to me, I think some people would find that very off-putting, and for others it could be a main appeal, a draw. It's in between the conventional style ranges, which is completely unique. But it's not floral or fruity in the same way Dan Cong often is, including that perfume like aromatic context that can come up. It traded out that strength for including rich feel, and creaminess, and a different overall balance. I suppose many people might already know where they stand on lighter versus more oxidized Dan Cong preparation.
Both teas were exceptional, again. That running theme made it hard to place those recent Chen Sheng Hao sheng pu'er versions, the inexpensive and good value types, which were pretty good, well balanced and enjoyable, but more ordinary. I can really appreciate ordinary but good tea; to me it's good enough.
















