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red wrapper Fengqing version on the left, in all photos |
I'm comparison reviewing two exceptional Fu cakes from Oriental Leaf. I think the zhuan part relates to a brick form, so I guess these aren't that, but it still helps identify the material type, for people accustomed to only seeing them pressed as bricks.
I've recently tried what seemed likely to be the best example of Fu zhuan hei cha I've yet to try from them, reviewed here. The comparison theme serves a few purposes. One is to get through versions and samples of teas faster, so that I can review 10 or so teas a month, instead of 5.
Then it also plays a role in highlighting minor differences between similar versions, which is why I'm using it for this review. It would be hard to spot differences in feel, sweetness level, aftertaste expression, and so on when reviewing similar versions days apart. Even isolating flavor aspect differences could be tricky, if a basic flavor range is similar. It works best for very similar character versions; trying two completely different tea types just adds work, and probably limits what you can notice.
These will be exceptional, it's just a matter of how. All of the Fu versions I've tried from them have been great, and that's not going to change for these. That last version was surprising for eclipsing earlier examples, and just being on par with that would be good.
I'll add the vendor descriptions here first, which I always add back in to the post review notes after trying the teas. I should also add that these were sent by the vendor for review (many thanks!). The days of bloggers connecting with producers and vendors to review teas are winding down, or just blog writing is, but it's nice carrying on that form, especially to communicate about interesting and unique teas.
I had others try those earlier Fu versions in a number of gathering based tastings, and essentially every person saw the version we tried as a highlight. Work out visiting me in Honolulu and Bangkok and you can place that for yourself.
On Taoism Jingyang Golden Flower Fu Brick Tea - 350g Cake (2020) ($65.50)
A 2025 World Tea Champion winner where five years of patient aging and Yunnan's finest spring buds unite with Jingyang's legendary flowering craft to deliver a Fu Brick Tea of extraordinary golden flower density and silken, honeyed complexity.
Jingyang Golden Flower Fu Brick Tea — Naturally Flourishing Golden Flowers, Mellow Sweetness, Silken Body
Abundant Natural Golden Flowers (Jin Hua)
Masterful Jingyang Flowering Craft (Fahua)
Smooth, Sweet, Zero Bitterness
Ideal for Daily Wellness and Long-Term Aging
What Makes It Unique
2025 World Tea Champion — Superior Leaf Award: Internationally recognized for best leaf profile and cup character, validated by blind tasting from global experts.
Extraordinarily Dense Golden Flowers: This tea has everything we look for: excellent base material, perfect "Golden Flower" growth, and great aging potential.
Premium Yunnan Spring Bud Material: Unlike conventional Fu Brick made with coarse autumn leaves, this tea uses 2020 spring harvest with exceptional bud density from Lincang and Fengqing.
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plenty of golden flowers (the Fengqing version) |
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the Lincang version |
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nice looking leaf material, not chopped, as hei cha in general would often be |
The black wrapper version is from Lincang, the red from Fengqing (from good Yunnan Assamica plant tea material, where a lot of hei cha source material would come from elsewhere). I could see why this stood out in an expo event competition; these are pretty good. Again, as related to trying two other smaller cake versions earlier, one matches my personal preferences better, but both are nice, distinctive, complex, and lacking flaws.
Related to that pricing, $65 for 350 grams, these are much better than any pu'er versions you would buy for that cost range. The type costs less in general, since demand isn't as high, but for tea of this quality in general under 20 cents a gram pricing is pretty low.
This review doesn't mention golden flowers (which are there). They add a distinctive yeasty, fruity sort of flavor input, which at best comes across as fresh bread and honey or dried fruit. Those flavors get mentioned, I just don't elaborate on guesses about the fungus causing them, versus the original material.
Review:
Fengqing: very nice! It includes the range one might expect, if anything a little more distinctive and pronounced than expected. Sweetness stands out, along a toffee or light caramel range. Flavors are relatively light and bright; a main flavor is similar to fruit cake, a mix of bright range dried fruits, particularly something like dried apricot. There is spice, and warmer tones, but those are secondary, and the warmth is limited. There is warm mineral range, but that will evolve more as the tea is fully wetted. I'll do a longer flavor list next round.
Lincang: spice is heavier in this, and the tone is slightly warmer. It's also exceptional. That spice range is going to be hard to describe; I think it's more than one thing. One part might be clove, and another cinnamon.
Of course there is a yeast-like aspect to both, so some description to fresh bread or cinnamon rolls would make sense. I'll try to sort all that out next round.
Fengqing #2: it's pleasant the way this set of flavors integrates. It may or may not sound like that; it is atypical range, related to a lot of other tea types' character.
Dried fruit stands out, a little stronger, maybe heavier toned this round (for being brewed lighter, or relating to more leaf input than fungus related flavor). Yeast flavor has already dropped back, but another part of this does relate to a fresh bread flavor. The type isn't easy to specify; maybe closest to fresh cinnamon rolls or sticky buns (which are kind of the same thing, just presented differently).
Light and warm mineral supports the rest, giving it a depth. Pronounced sweetness seems to help tie it all together, now more clearly in a toffee range. It's very clean in effect. Feel is full and rich, and it provides some aftertaste experience, with some of the warmer tones and sweetness carrying on after.
Lincang #2: spice develops further. This is really more than one kind of spice. A warm incense spice stands out, something like sandalwood. There is no astringency bite or sharp edge to this, but it includes spice range like a cooked form of ginger, a different kind of medium toned note. That's closer to cooked lotus root, if that's familiar. It doesn't come across as sweet as the other, but it includes sweetness.
Mostly related to personal preference for sweeter teas and fruit range I like the first better, so far. But this balances well; the flavors are complementary. Slightly stronger dark bread tones works well with the rest. I've been brewing these a little strong because they work well that way. The flavor intensity would support lighter infusions still being pleasant.
Related to comparison with the other earlier versions these might be a little better. It's been awhile, so it's hard comparing across months of time since earlier exposure. And when I drink tea just to enjoy it, or even in informal tastings, I tend to break them down as descriptions less, which sort of could help with analysis and ranking.
Fengqing #3: it evolves; warmer tones keep ramping up, and lighter sweeter range is replaced by heavier sweeter range. The earlier fresh cinnamon roll is closer to a fresh darker bread now, not a heavy version of one, but not light either. The earlier dried apricot has changed to a heavier dried fruit, or mix of dried fruits. Feel is still thick and rich; maybe even a little heavier.
As a sheng drinker one might consider if teas that lack the intensity and punch are somehow less appealing. Flavor intensity is fine in this, but young sheng, or sheng with limited aging, is typically aggressive, in terms of feel and flavor, and this isn't that. I never completely stop drinking black tea, versions along the line of Dian Hong, or related SE Asian forms, so I stay in contact with preference for a different range.
Some of this character isn't different than flavorful and intense black tea, that expresses a lot of depth. The flavor profile isn't a close match, but it does overlap. The warm mineral base and fullness can be comparable, again only related to black tea versions that emphasize depth. The bread-like range is different.
In giving it one last taste before the next round something like dried blueberry might make for a good interpretation of part of it.
Lincang: this evolves to include more spice range, again along the line of incense spice, perhaps close to sandalwood (although my incense spice range memory awareness is now limited). It comes across as a little dryer. Really it is sweet and full, with good depth, but small differences across a similar range stand out in comparison tasting like this. A touch of fruit edge might relate to a warm citrus peel, not like chen pi (aged tangerine), but still not so far from that.
There's almost a savory effect. It's not similar in flavor that it links to related to sun-dried tomato, the other form of savory / umami flavor that tends to be expressed, beyond seaweed that's more common in green tea forms. This might resemble dried seaweed a little, the roasted sheets version. But it lacks the vegetal range; it's just the savory edge. And that is secondary to the warm spice and dark bread context, along with warm mineral base.
Fengqing #4: this shifts a good bit. That dried blueberry I had mentioned is closer to dried cranberry now. It's not exactly tart, but the fruit flavor has changed. Maybe dried dark cherry works better. The warm tones have shifted from a bread-like yeast note closer to cacao. This is much closer to one set of flavor aspects that can come up in black teas, that dark cherry and cacao pairing. The base feel and deeper flavor range context is different. It doesn't include any of that sharpness in black teas, present in a very limited form in soft and full black teas.
Feel is a little creamy. You tend to only associate that with milk oolong, or at least light rolled oolong, but it works as a description for this. It's reasonably close to a milk chocolate and dried fruit experience, layered on top of warmer mineral and earth tones. It's harder to isolate the earthy range in this, since the rest stands out a lot more, but I think it plays a role in this seeming so full and complex, and balanced. It would be natural to just interpret it as warm mineral, but I think it's both, also including mild and sweet earthiness.
Something along the line of a touch of sweet leather gives an idea of what I mean, but this doesn't taste that much like leather, it would at most relate to a base flavor tone. Of course that vertical layering is something I'm adding in interpretation; I really do "see" the flavors in that way, but it's probably more in how I frame them than a naturally occurring positioning that everyone else would also experience.
Lincang: that one spice note dominates this, and then there is a lot of depth and complexity beyond that. I guess how much one likes this tea might relate to how they experience that one flavor aspect input, as much as the rest. To me it's squarely within the range of incense spice experience, but I guess someone else might see it as tying to medicinal root spice, or something else. If you think "bay leaf" when you taste it then it seems to resemble that conventional cooking spice.
Since other spice range supports that aspect experience it's really complex, even if it's natural to see it as simple, with one note supported by others. The rest sort of resembles that complex mix of spice inputs in pumpkin pie spicing, which of course overlaps quite a bit with masala chai spices. I suppose preconceptions about flavors, what one expects, or associates with different complex ranges, would affect interpretation.
Fengqing #5: this will probably be enough for note-taking, even though these won't be finished.
Somehow yeast range seems to pick back up. Interesting; that had seemed to fade. That relates to a complex flavor set the golden flowers contributes, which seems to extend well beyond yeast, into some of this fruit range I've been describing. The feel of this is interesting, and pleasant, really well balanced and full. There is still that pleasant set of dark cherry and cacao flavors present. This would work well as a Christmas tea with nothing added to it.
Aftertaste intensity is unique. It's not one main flavor carrying over, or a set, but the rich feel and depth of flavors, and sweetness, all linger on. Compared to sheng intensity or oolong creaminess and floral range it's limited, but it has a lot of depth, so it doesn't come across as limited.
Lincang: the main spice note falls into a more even balance with the rest, letting this integrate the best it has. Those other complex flavors worked well as supporting range before, but now it's all of a similar intensity. It comes across as softer and fuller, and maybe even sweeter. A yeast-like depth resembles a light rye in this, a fresh bread note. Apparently this will brew a few more infusions that are even more pleasant, complex, and balanced, instead of narrowing in scope.
Again related to my own preference the first version stands out more. I can appreciate spice range flavors, layered with fresh bread notes, but an even sweeter dried fruit and cacao set of flavors works better for me. This probably relates to a difference between people who are attracted to lots of sweet flavors and deserts, like dried fruit based deserts, or even chocolate and ice cream, and others who like a savory and spice oriented range more.
Why not both, as differing experiences at different times? I do crave plenty of intense, bitter, aggressive young sheng, but my main preference within that range is lighter, fruity, strong but approachable versions. Then sometimes I'll have Xiaguan that's not all that close to ready, and the variety of experience is nice. A Da Xue Shan origin (I think it was that) "cannonball" form version works well to cover both ranges, and to balance, even related to being transitioned but far from fully transitioned, from 2017 or so. I just looked it up; it was 2018. The point is that some of my favorite teas aren't sweet and fruity.
Conclusions
A lot is concluded in this already. The teas are good, from good plant material, sold at a good value. I liked one more than the other (the Fengqing material version), related to it being sweeter, a bit fruity, and for tasting like cacao, while the other included more incense spice range, that transitioned to being more balanced by other inputs in later rounds.
Both kept brewing; I tried another pleasant round that day, and two more the next day. They needed more time for those 5th through 7th infusions, but you could stretch timing and keep going, or even simmer that type of tea, if you wanted to get the last of it. Plenty of tea types you drink until the character is unpleasant, but these don't drift into tasting like some version of wood in late rounds (per my interpretation; maybe that simmered round would be off in some way).
To me a next question is how these would compare to the last exceptional Fu zhuan I just reviewed from Oriental Leaf (a 2010 Jinyang version). I don't know, but I can guess, and might write about comparing them. These are quite good but I think that tea was great.
You tend to miss things in trying a tea just once, as I do in these reviews, but I have to accept that limitation or else I would need to write and compare two sets of notes for each post. There might be a difference in body / feel, flavor complexity, or depth between versions. You can easily miss an important input that's kind of "in the background," like a touch of sourness, or a minor flavor. I noticed mint on a second tasting of one recently; it was secondary, in terms of intensity, but it adjusted how the rest came across. I would probably just compare the version that I liked better; three way tastings get to be a bit much.
Those earlier two On Taoism versions (identical tea, listed here, and reviewed earlier here, but sold as 190 gram cakes) were essentially an equivalent option, just sold at less volume, and a slightly higher cost (but still around 20 cents a gram). I had reviewed them brewing them Western style. That works, but for teas this good it's interesting to me to see the development of them across Gongfu rounds.
If I'm in a hurry in the morning I'll still sometimes brew exceptional tea Western style, to keep things moving, and it's nice that these work both ways, as better black teas do. For good oolong you kind of lose too much from transitions, but for inexpensive and medium quality rolled oolong, as most Thai versions are, Western style is still fine. If an oolong version is limited in quality or flawed enough Western brewing is better. Initially I kind of expected more limitations from these teas, an extra rough edge or feel gap, but they're solid, complex and well-balanced.
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an orange kitten helped with this tasting |
















