This reviews an exceptional Fu zhuan (brick) hei cha version from Oriental Leaf. This was sent by them for review (many thanks!).
I've reviewed a number of other versions from them, over last year. A general theme was making Fu zhuan hei cha from different types of higher than usual tea material, for example from Yunnan Assamica usually used to make pu'er, or from already processed white tea.
I've never really explored hei cha processing that much here, how it differs from producing other types, or how fermentation is induced through different processing steps. I read, and mentioned, some background on Liu Bao awhile back, but it was a bit complicated to sort out by simplified summary. This includes "golden flower" fungus growth, which is regarded as a positive input, but I also don't get into that much in this.
It works to mostly just describe the tea itself, the typical blog review theme. Which often starts with citing the producer / vendor description and details, as here:
Jingyang Genshe 2010 Vintage Fu Brick Tea | Golden Flower Dark Tea ($218 for a 468 gram brick, but it is also sold as a 30 gram sample for $17)
In 2010, in the ancient tea-trading hub of Jingyang, Shaanxi Province, master craftsman Jia Genshe 贾根社 pressed this brick using techniques his family has guarded for generations. The "Jingyang Fu Brick Tea making technique" was officially recognized and listed as National Intangible Cultural Heritage of China. This designation reflects the extraordinary skill required to cultivate the Golden Flowers that define authentic Fu tea—a process that historically could only succeed under Jingyang's unique climate and water conditions.
What sets this brick apart is the preservation of an increasingly rare production step: the tea-oil infusion process (熬茶油, Áo Chá Yóu). After the Hunan Anhua black maocha (黑毛茶, Hēi Máo Chá) undergoes initial fermentation (渥堆, Wò Duī) and cutting, it is simmered to extract a thick, concentrated tea liquor. This potent essence is then poured back over the leaves before the flowering stage (发花, Fā Huā) begins. The result is a Fu brick with noticeably richer body and more complex flavor than standard production methods can achieve.
Hand compressed Fuzhuan is easier for the Golden Flower to grow than machine compressed. Since the hand-compressed tea is not as tight as the machine, there will be more space and moisture for the fungus to grow and propagate. Master Jia's entirely handmade approach—from pressing to flowering—ensures optimal conditions for the beneficial Eurotium cristatum to flourish throughout the brick.
So the description offers a good bit of build-up, with more description content in the listing. And the selling cost of this is considerable, perhaps the highest Fu zhuan or hei cha pricing I've seen. It would have to be one of the best hei cha versions I've ever tried to justify that. And it is; this stands above anything else I've experienced within the entire hei cha range. Surely this represents the high end of Fu zhuan potential, regardless of where it stands within that higher end range.
Mind you the difference between quite good Fu zhuan and a great version could seem narrow, to some. Their "On Taoism" pressed cake examples were already pretty good, and for people assigning value (and limited cost) as a main selection input they could be good enough. This tea is something else; it's for people really on that page. Or buying a sample would provide the experience without the $200+ expense (for a brick version amounting to nearly half a kilogram; that's a lot of material to keep experiencing).
I've mentioned sharing that earlier tea experience, those other versions, with people in tastings (in posts here), and in general essentially everyone who has tried it has found it interesting, and liked it. I think that relates to why Oriental Leaf is open to sharing tea of this amount and value (which sort of requires explanation, per one take on it). It could seem like a way to "buy" blogger or reviewer support, to convert a positive reviewer into more of a proactive supporter or "shill" role, but I don't see it as working out like that.
If I like a tea I communicate exactly the same thing, whether a vendor has sent a sample or else more tea than that. If I dislike a tea I generally won't cover it, seeing that as an uninteresting story to tell, unless a tea is bad in an interesting way, for example a Lapsang Souchong version is way too smoky.
I don't end up buying much bad tea, and vendors don't share it with me, so I typically review whatever is interesting enough to write about. I bought some generic local black tea a year or so ago that wasn't; that kind of thing happens.
Review:
Infusion #1: of course it's really something, novel, complex, and exceptional. A rye bread like flavor stands out initially, with lots going on beyond that. There's a sweetness that might be like honey, or maybe closer to caramel. A spice tone matches well with the fresh baked bread flavor effect. I suppose it's like one part of nutmeg, which works out to be a complex flavor. Feel is full and rich, and it contributes some aftertaste experience already. Mineral depth is warm and pronounced.
The tea is very clean and full, related to an overall impression. There is no murkiness or heavy earthiness. This may well be the best Fu zhuan version I've tried. To an extent that has to be framed in relation to a personal preference, since that's the final yardstick, but you can also extend that to be an objective conclusion, it just functions in a limited sense as that.
Editing note: these notes were written before I read the description, heard anything about the tea, or knew the cost of it, per my standard approach. I don't go back and edit tasting descriptions to sound more like the product description.
#2: heavier flavors pick up. Using a relatively high proportion, maybe 8 grams, relates to this brewing to be strong, even with limited infusion time (maybe 15 seconds this round; not that long, or that limited). Brewed lighter sweeter, lighter flavors stand out more, and brewed heavier heavy flavors and warmer tones tend to be more of what you experience. Astringency is stronger when a tea is brewed stronger, but this doesn't include a lot of that. It has a full feel, and a lot of body, and that's it.
This has shifted from a fresh baked light rye flavor range to a darker bread range, on towards pumpernickel. Spice tone is still present, but lighter, and sweetness plays a less pronounced role. More earthy and mineral range depth stands out.
You can taste a golden flowers input; that has a specific, characteristic flavor. Some of what I'm missing, that I'm leaving out in notes, relates to that. There's a touch of sourness to it, a yeasty sort of effect. If you've tried to use brewer's yeast as a supplement, or something along that line, it's pretty close to that. I think most people would like the flavor, and overall effect, but there's nothing necessarily universal about that; some also wouldn't. People could apply interpretations like cardboard or cured hardwood; that could make sense. To me it's still in a bread range, more so.
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she helped out with the tasting |
#3: I brewed this faster, at less than 10 seconds, to see what that changes.
To some extent lighter tones do emerge, but it's also in the same general range. There's a catchy flavor set, in the way these particular flavors combine. A lighter, sweeter sort of caramel tone is more present in this round. The spice that I identified as nutmeg is probably closer to an incense spice. Eventually I'll try out burning some decent incense sticks, but until then I'll have trouble placing which ones. Sandalwood, maybe?
The feel is exceptional, that fullness, with a good bit of structure, but that's at the same time very approachable. It doesn't contribute aftertaste in the same sense as sheng pu'er. Flavor definitely trails afterwards, and feel does, but it's more that the whole experience stays with you. It's also the feel across your entire mouth, and a residual flavor echo that's not the same as what you taste drinking it. Mineral tone stands out more, like a rich, warm version of clay. Some people might think "yuck, clay," but the range of scent tones that clay can express can be remarkable. I played with clay a lot as a child; it was that kind of a strange, rural, old timey sort of experience of youth, for me.
From there I think other people might "get" other flavors. One part might resemble pine cones, and another some type of curing hardwood bark. It tastes a little like beeswax. There's a lot of depth and complexity to both the flavor and feel experience ranges.
#4: I'll go back to brewing this around 15 seconds; I think it will do well more fully extracted.
Spice tone stands out a bit more. It's hard to say what spice; it's complex, so really more than one thing. The main part is along the line of sandalwood. I suppose this tastes like how you'd expect the "spice melange" in Dune to taste. Let's check that:
In Dune, the Spice Melange is consistently described as smelling and tasting like bitter cinnamon. However, the experience is highly subjective; characters note that it never tastes exactly the same twice, taking on complex, life-like variations that can induce mild euphoria.
Because "melange" translates to "mixture" or "blend" in French, many culinary interpretations suggest it relies on cinnamon as a base while weaving in notes of nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. The dynamic flavor profile is also frequently attributed to a "learned-flavor reaction," where your body recognizes the substance as life-enhancing and interprets the taste as intensely pleasurable.
(with the AI sampling that last part from here)
One part of this does taste like clove, but it's a very soft, rich part of the entire clove flavor range. Maybe the spice depth isn't unlike ginger too, but again there is no strong, spicy edge.
Aftertaste is quite pronounced, probably a little stronger for brewing this stronger. That sandalwood sort of effect really carries over.
# 5: feel is changing, more than flavor tone, but it's also both. It's still rich, full, and approachable, but a bit more edge enters in, a trace of dryness. That aftertaste effect also sort of builds up on you, over lots of rounds. You could always drink water between rounds, or some neutral food, like a rice cracker, to get it to dispel, but it's a pleasant effect.
This feel and flavor will continue to evolve; this tea is far from finished. But I only have so much patience for taking notes, and I drank some of sheng versions left over from yesterday before starting this, with breakfast. Breakfast was pretty exceptional today, but also kind of normal for me: eggs with amaranth (Thai or Chinese spinach), lychee, left over pastry (egg tart and taro with latticed danish), and a small local donut.
In drinking the last of this round it again occurs to me how clean in effect this is. For listing all of these relatively earthy or warm vegetal flavors you might expect it to be a little harsher, but it's clean and light in tone (compared to some flavors being a little heavy). Feel is rich and full but not harsh. Maybe related to aging input settling out rougher edges?
Conclusion
There isn't too much to add; I really liked the tea. Flavor complexity, depth, intensity, feel, and refinement were all very positive. Novelty was great; some other similar teas I've tried could include comparable individual aspects from this, but nothing else has come close related to pulling it all together.
I guess from there I can get back to value issues. Fu zhuan tends to be inexpensive, and those earlier versions seemed like middle-range pricing to me, on a somewhat higher level than might be most typical ($38.50 for 190 gram cake, kind of in sheng pu'er range, relating to a $70-some 357 gram cake).
But the most "ordinary" and low cost Fu zhuan tends to include a number of limitations, eg. moderate flavor intensity and complexity, a limited amount of off flavor range (earthiness, tasting like less positive forms of clay), rougher feel, etc. I think that's a great place to start hei cha exploration, but eventually people might naturally want to try better versions.
Maybe citing an earlier experience will clarify this, from this post in 2017: Yi Qing Yuan factory Hunan Fu brick tea with golden flowers
That tea sounds fine, and somewhat comparable, but from that description it doesn't sound like it's on the same level. The tea was from Yunnan Sourcing, but they don't still list it (of course), and instead of that being from 2009 they seem to mostly only list 2018 and 19 versions now (so still a comparable age as that had been then, 8 years old). Eight years probably does settle out quite a bit of the rougher edged range of a lot of hei cha, but 16 is probably better, for a more complete transition cycle.
That review includes a bit on what golden flowers are (the fungus); I was doing more with looking up and including such background back then.
To be fair it's hard to place my 2017 perspective against my current exposure to hei cha, and a broad range of teas. I was new to the range then, and I've tried a good bit since, but have focused more on pu'er. This was written mostly to communicate the aspects as I experienced them, instead of placing the tea within a range of other Fu zhuan hei cha that's out there, but a little discussion of that seemed in order.
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at a local Bangkok convention center (Queen Sirikit) |















