A local tea contact passed on some amazing tea, sheng pu'er from Bing Dao. Usually with tea of this origin you end up considering the likelihood that it's really from Bing Dao, but in this case I'm pretty sure that it is. It's an interesting story as to why. Here's a limited description of what it is:
"...all from Bingdao laozhai Fengzi hao brand authentically laoshu (below 200 year old tea tree) and Gushu (more than 200 year old)..."
That source is perhaps the main local (Bangkok) tea expert.
I don't use that term "expert" lightly; there aren't many people I would refer to as such. I accept that Olivier Schneider is both a tea expert and pu'er expert; that works as an example. Earlier on he wrote articles in puerh.fr, but he has moved on to different kinds of exploration in the decade since, including tea production. It's just an example.
Lots of vendors know lots about tea, but their focus tends to be narrow (generally; not always). Producers end up experiencing depth that others just can't match, but generally within a different type of narrow range.
This tea expert is Steven Liu, author of his own tea blog, here (which I think is a pen name; his formal name isn't a complete secret). He's been writing that for 14 years, a year longer than I've been at it. He is creator of a main Thai tea group on FB (with almost 80,000 members; not bad), and a main Thai tea marketplace group on there as well. He hosts different kinds of talks and seminars on tea, and travels to events related to tea, reviewing tea production; all the usual themes. Local tea enthusiasts all know him, even more than me (a lot more; he is a local Thai, and is more connected).
He didn't buy this tea, a producer he is in contact with and was visiting gave it to him (or essentially that; I'm writing this from memory of a message discussion). It's real. How good it is makes for another subject, but it's almost certainly a pretty good, type typical version, with "pretty good" being used in an unconventional way. Skipping ahead, it is exceptional (both; I'm trying a 100 year old material version and 300, both from 2025).
Since I haven't described us as being close local friends, why would he share tea of this caliber with me? Longstanding tea enthusiasts would get it; it's natural to share tea, and you would extend that further with people who would appreciate tea versions more, or who you share other commonality with, like writing about the subject, running FB groups, and holding events. Reviewing a Bing Dao version here not long ago reminded him of the theme, and he felt that I should try a real, good version, which is very kind (my deepest thanks!).
Review:
100 year old plant source: it's really good. That's what I would have expected, so these teas will be up against some high baseline expectations. It will make for a good opportunity to describe how that factors in, and what I make of drinking exceptional tea (sheng especially), versus pretty good and pleasant versions.
A hint of dry mineral will probably turn to stronger and clean mineral next round, and that's it for even vaguely negative aspect input. Even that's more positive than negative. Sweetness is good, and tone is bright and pleasant. The flavors span floral range, with a lot of mineral base standing out. Bitterness is pronounced but moderate, but it will probably reach the level this tea provides when fully wetted next round. It all balances really well; it's refined. All of that for the light first infusion.
300-400 year old plant source: this is similar, but I'll end up focusing on and describing minor differences. It's sweet enough, and floral, with mineral standing out, and limited bitterness. One part of the tone is warmer and deeper. This might develop more complexity, and a slightly different flavor profile.
For the flavor being just a touch warmer, mineral and bitterness being more subdued (a little), and for it seeming to cover a different kind of depth this seems like it could be a year older. These teas seem pretty new though, maybe a 2025 version instead of 2026, but seemingly not really aged. [later editing note: that guess was right, they're from 2025]. That's in relation to them being here (in Bangkok); in a cool and dry environment these could be 3 or 4 years old, and just not changed much yet anyway. For here maybe the first half a year these were exposed to local conditions changed them faster than I expected, and these are really from 2026 [so to be clear it's not as if I really could tell.]
It's hard to pin down how plant material being older changes things, because it's hard to rely on that story of background being accurate, even from more reliable sources. This local tea contact, Steven, visited Bing Dao, and he is really into the background and details related to tea, so I'm guessing that these are as reliable and legitimate as you could get [with just a little more detail in the intro part, but not much]. And he's not selling these, at least to me, and I think in general; he just shared them. We're more contacts than friends too; I've only met him once, in person. Some people into tea are open to sharing, sometimes especially with people who can relate to what teas are.
I've described this tea as expressing more warmth and depth, but it would also work to say that it's leaning towards a spice range flavor, like incense spice or aromatic tree bark, maybe like agar wood (not that I'm really familiar with that). I explored tisanes more in an earlier life phase; I would've had more familiarity with that range then.
100 year old plant material second infusion: very clean, with good intensity, and a very pleasant flavor profile. Floral range is bright and sweet, and moderate mineral base and bitterness match that well. The flavor picked up quite a bit of range. You could phrase that as complexity--including more elements--and depth, seeming to span some range that serves as a base for the rest (mostly mineral). Aftertaste carry-over is pleasant, and the limited bitterness does trail on as sweetness (hui gan). Feel is significant but it doesn't really center in one place in your mouth, causing sensation across a lot of it, relating to a moderate mouth watering effect.
This tea is better than it needs to be for me to appreciate it. It all really balances well, with flavor and every other aspect quite positive. It's not as if it could be too good, if that could somehow be a limitation, but beyond a certain quality range the teas seem to justify a good bit of attention and respect, so that you can end up putting work in just being fully present for the experience. It's not entirely negative to drink tea mindlessly; that can be positive in a different way. There are other things one could focus on, like drinking it outside on a sunny and breezy morning, cats walking by, and so on.
300-400 year old material: bitterness and mineral base are more moderate, but this includes a lot more depth and flavor range. It's a simple tea still, in one limited sense; the range it covers is limited, but it works well, it's very pleasant and refined.
Older plant material sheng versions can be less intense, especially related to the strong bitterness and heavy mineral edge. That's happening with this. Other complexity enters in, often, as with this expanded flavor set and richer feel. This has evolved to cover more root spice range, something like sassafras. I don't mean that it tastes like root beer, although that could be partly accurate.
I grew up in a forested area, in Western PA, and certainly don't remember the scent profiles of a lot of kinds of trees, but when I was younger I was very frequently exposed to them. I would climb trees, dig up a lot of things that made no sense to be digging up, and we cut a diverse range for firewood, I guess like in Abraham Lincoln's life story. A number of fresh root types have a cool, bright, almost fruity smell. Maybe this part gets a little strange, but I would crush leaves to huff the scent as I hiked in later years, in Colorado. Especially pine and sage. In the garden I'm drinking these in I don't do that, but flowering vines do share their scent at different times, which is pleasant.
Someone else could see part of this flavor as falling within vegetal range. I had okra with breakfast; I suppose it's not completely different than that kind of scent, or flavor. But to me a light root spice interpretation is more natural, for this round. It's a stretch to call a light, bright, sweet root spice flavor vegetal.
Drinking water between rounds tasted very sweet, an interesting after effect from some sheng versions. Sometimes that relates to a strong bitterness and sweetness intensity, and these aren't intense in that way, in the sense of that experience being strong. It's still pronounced though. For as mild as these are they could be a little older than I had guessed, 2025, and that softened bitterness and astringency could relate to 2 or 3 years of settling input. I would guess that they're relatively young though, only a year or two old, and they're just like that, intense in a different way, that's not harsh or intrusive.
100 years, third infusion: that's so pleasant! I've tried tea presented as Bing Dao in the last few weeks, but I can't really do much with connecting or associating this with that, or rejecting commonality. It probably seems similar. If that tea was this good it was really good, and as I recall it wasn't so far off this for general taste range. Light floral range pops more in this than in the other older plant material version, which also includes other flavor range. The sweetness and floral intensity balances really well with moderate bitterness and light mineral base.
300-400: it's interesting how this overlaps with the other version, but is so different, in a different sense. This includes more flavor range, as I've already described, with bitterness and mineral playing a more limited role (although it's moderate in that too). The part I keep describing as different spice range seems to transition to mint, or at least including mint. It's catchy. Of course that's a light and herbal mint, like spearmint, not a sharper and heavier peppermint. Maybe some would call that camphor, but it's a light expression of it, if so.
Going back and trying the first the bitterness and slightly drier feel stand out, when those seem really well balanced with sweetness and floral intensity before you make that comparison. One more infusion might be enough for now. I can kind of feel these teas, but it's not too much of that part that's an issue, just that this is already a lot of tea experience. I'll hold a tasting tomorrow; I suppose in a different way I'll go through a lot more then. But with more emphasis on a social aspect, and some related ideas; it's different. This requires focus.
100 years, fourth infusion: not so different than last round; I should probably keep this short, since it was already a lot to read. It improves, becoming catchier and better balanced, and the balance was already good. The floral range might include just a little dried fruit at this point.
300-400: the impression of depth still stands out. It's interesting how that works out; you can't really place what is causing it. Broad flavor range and feel thickness are part of it, but it's more than that. Flavor intensity is pronounced in one sense and limited in another. It's definitely not a sheng version that smacks you in the mouth, but it's not thin or limited either. It lacks the limestone light mineral in the other version, but there is a mineral base. It's refined and balanced, but that's probably not so descriptive.
I think this is a tea experience that a lot of people would value quite a bit, but it would help to have tried a lot of sheng to recognize and relate to it. It really is refined; the parts come together well as a whole.
later infusions: obviously this wasn't anywhere near the end, I just stopped taking notes. Later transitions are sometimes interesting, but in general the first 4 or 5 rounds tell the story, and the rest is more about how it holds up to a lot of infusions. But it's usually not worth writing hundreds more words about, or reading them. The main reason for limiting notes is to keep this text volume readable.
Conclusions:
Just fantastic teas, probably about as good as anything I've tried, and perhaps better than I can fully appreciate. In one sense I have basic tastes, which I won't go too far into here. If you read about the teas we just tried in a tasting, in the last post, that could help explains how I absolutely love teas that are flavorful and distinctive, but not "refined" in this sense, especially Thai and Vietnamese versions.
I can't expand too much on placing what I experienced of them. One concern comes up, about noticing the typical, distinctive aspects range for local origin typical versions. Bing Dao is said to include a cooling sensation after you drink it, and to include honey sweetness (and maybe other characteristics; that's just what comes to mind, of standard hearsay). One part of a flavor reminded me of mint at one point, but I didn't mention a cooling effect. It's likely enough that if I was "looking for that" I would have noted it, regardless of how prominent it was. Same for the honey flavor, maybe.
It's not unusual for me to try a tea a few times and notice something I had missed, even if I tried to do a complete review of what I had experienced earlier on. Interpretation of experience works out like that. But how can you fully value something novel and sought after, like a cooling sensation after drinking a tea, if you aren't noticing it? I suppose that I couldn't. It leads into considering other learned preference for experiences, but I'll skip another tangent on that.
The teas were great in some pretty conventional ways, extending that a little into interesting and unusually pleasant range. But I'm no clearer on whether or not the other tea I recently tried was "real Bing Dao" or not. I don't think it was this good, but that can be hard to place.
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the cat was fixated on a squirrel during the review tasting |
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he was hanging upside down by his feet, eating part of a flower |
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she is Siamese, so a Thai cat in two different senses |























