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Thai version right, in all photos (this is the third round) |
I've been meaning to try Rishi sheng versions from South East Asia for awhile, and finally got around to ordering two. Whether or not someone calls them pu'er doesn't matter to me; that are that type, regardless of a Chinese regional designation for that name. Per my understanding the type was produced in lots of places long before Chinese people adopted that village name for it. They are these:
Doi Wawee Sheng Pu'er Vintage Spring 2022 ($45 for a 200 gram cake)
The Doi Wawee Pu’er cakes we source are part of the incredible history of tea in Thailand. Throughout northern Thailand there are many old, abandoned tea plantations that have been left to grow wild from centuries past. Known locally by the Thais as “Assam tea,” these trees are part of an ancient tea journey that traces its roots back to the 11th and 12th Centuries...
This 2022 Doi Wawee sheng Pu’er has a wonderful balance of density, power and elegance. The floral and aromatic wood notes are present over the course of the several infusions. For being such a young cake the tea is very smooth and lasting in sweetness. The powerful energy and awakening vibes of Doi Wawee’s ancient tea is incredible.
The history of tea in lots of places has been lost, but the earlier existence of the plants can be confirmed, especially since some can live a long time, so it's a living history. I don't remember what I've heard about time-frames, but the history of Thailand importing ceramics production from China goes back a long time, for centuries, so tea was probably around too.
Laos Sheng Pu’er Tea Cake Vintage 2021 ($48 for a 250 gram cake)
Our 2021 round cake pressing of the first picked, early spring tea is lively and energetic with luscious wildflower honey, ripe fruit and piney aromas. The Xiengkhoung region of Laos is demonstrating its consistent performance as one of our favorite origins for Pu'er tea. The tea has a long-lasting impact on the palate with a mouthwatering sweetness and deeply refreshing quality. The delicate floral aromas give way to an emerging pungency, stimulating strength and minerality that builds up in the subsequent brews. The tea is pressed a bit hard, so it comes out slowly and elegantly over the course of many infusions...
It is pressed really hard; that will probably slow aging transition. They mention positive cha qi (feel) in that description too, but I tend to not notice that, unless it's very pronounced. They mention a little more on local growing areas in the website, about elevation, and include harvest timing; the whole story of both is on the site pages.
South East Asian sheng has been my overall favorite type for a long time. Thai versions can be very nice, distinctive and pleasant. Laos versions tend to be less consistent, but in the best cases they're very positive too. Vietnamese sheng seems to often stray further from Yunnan production style, to include some extra oxidation, or maybe the kill-green step is sometimes different, leading to slightly different results. I've had exceptional versions from Myanmar, and they might be a little more consistent in general, and as true to type related to Yunnan versions as any of the others.
Review:
Wawee #1: pretty nice. A bit of pine comes across early on, and some sort of stone fruit note, close enough to plum, but that interpretation could vary, and it will probably evolve. It's clean, intense, and balanced, and not at all light in relation to this being the first round. Bitterness is significant, but also moderate, which is what I would have expected.
Maybe flavor tones have deepened and warmed since production, since this is a 2022, but I can only guess. I've tried a reasonable amount of other Thai sheng and this compares well, and is similar in character. But then it's too early for that level of judgment.
Phousan Laos: an intense more vegetal note hits right away; I'll need to brew this fast to optimize results around that. It's in between green wood and mushroom, but warmed and softened a bit, so maybe that's partly cured wood and dried mushroom. It's missing the fruit range in the other tea.
One could interpret some of the vegetal range as pine but it seems to represent wood more. This might evolve towards incense spice, if the less pleasant vegetal range diminishes, based on what it tastes like now. At least at this level it doesn't really compare favorably to the Thai version at all. It lacks the same sweetness and cleanness, with flavors that aren't nearly as positive. You can't really judge sheng by the first round though; they will often develop a bit between the first and third infusion, and continue changing after that.
Wawee #2: bitterness and vegetal range picked up a lot, which is to be expected.
I overdo it with proportion, as a matter of habit, generally always using about 8 grams per 100 ml gaiwan. Since that's my norm I tend to just go with it. You can use faster infusions and get similar results related to using a more conventional proportion, but they might be more optimum using 5, so you can adjust timing better.
I was just talking about that with that Teas We Like founder I just met at the last meetup (described in the last post), and I can't really justify the practice of using a high proportion as somehow better. It's just how my tea brewing evolved. It's a good way to drink a dozen rounds of tea on the intense side, and I'm drinking for beverage experience more often than tasting, even though I do both, and approach for the two mixed. If intensity is too high for a round, which can happen, you can just flash infuse the next round and mix them, although I don't do that during review tasting sessions.
The depth is nice. Astringency / feel filled in, and it's substantial, and bitterness falls into a different balance. The sweetness and complex flavor range makes it pleasant. Some aftertaste expression carries over; it's definitely not thin, or limited in any way. The fruit note is especially pleasant. Pine isn't really prominent; probably that's something you would either notice in that first infusion or else not get. I can't say the more vegetal range tastes like wood, but it's hard to place it otherwise. I would guess this will evolve towards spice some, which is also a best case for the Laos version.
Phousan: wood is still the dominant flavor. At least the mushroom edge to that has evolved away already. There is a more positive spice range entering in; this is improving fast. That main wood flavor is a well-cured hardwood, with a touch of greener wood range beyond that. The vegetal scope isn't all that green, so the spice seems to tie in with that. It could be interpreted as medicinal herb, or even along the line of some type of basil (maybe tulsi / holy basil). It's starting to work better; I think the third infusion will determine how the rest will go.
I didn't include it in the tasting theme post but we also discussed the use of comparison tasting, that tea vendor / expert and I. He said that it's a good tool for a beginner to use to notice differences that would be harder to place otherwise, which would help with sorting out tea evaluation in general. Of course that's part of what I'm doing, and what I started using it for. It has evolved to where I'm mostly trying two or more teas, but usually two, to get to more versions with less tasting and writing time. I might do 80 or 90 reviews in a year, and write about well over 100 teas, maybe 150, so I would be writing even more posts to try them one at a time. I guess it's down to 70-some posts in total and maybe 60 reviews now, but it works out the same.
It may not seem it but writing one detailed review a week is a lot. It takes more than an hour to write the notes, or maybe two, and another hour to edit photos and text, and add reference citation. It's not the time that's a concern though, it's the focus required. You have to use the time that you are most dialed in, rested, and relaxed, or it won't work.
Wawee #3: overall balance is improving, the way those aspects already described come together. This isn't really a fair comparison because Thai sheng is among my personal favorites, with lots of what I've tried from the Wawee area. I've tried a good bit of Laos sheng too, and some was great, but only the Farmerleaf version I mentioned in the last meetup theme post stands out as on the same level as other better versions from elsewhere. That's in recent memory; I was drinking a good bit of Laos sheng 5 to 10 years ago, and a couple of versions back then were probably pretty exceptional, but more weren't.
I should get around to describing Thai and Laos sheng in relation to Yunnan versions, in terms of style (typical style--both vary a lot), typical quality level, and terroir input. It's just so much to get to, and every point would involve a troublesome spiral in describing exceptions and normal range of variation. Maybe I won't.
Phousan: clearly the best this has been, right on schedule. Green and cured wood is giving way to more spice range. It's not just a touch of basil now, something along the line of celery seed is prominent. I've been using dill seed from our garden as a food spice; it's not too far from that, but probably still closer to celery. It's more pleasant than this description makes it sound, like some sort of basil and seed spice tisane, with a bit of wood. Let's free-form associate what makes it more positive, as a flavor list description.
The wood tone I've been describing moving into incense spice range is part of it. Sandalwood, maybe? I really should revisit that incense scent theme again somehow. I have no idea how agar wood would vary, and I've even lost track of what patchouli smells like, which would be a slap in the face for one former Deadhead roommate, and lifetime best friend, who always smelled like that. Sweetness also picks up; that helps the flavors tie together. Limited bitterness, which I tend to not mention much, if it's a normal low-background input, probably also helps in this case. Feel is fine; it has fullness and structure, it just doesn't stand out, so again I see it as normal background context. I'll revisit this next round, as it continues to evolve.
Wawee #4: this is where I might start hitting a wall for drinking a lot of tea, and the next round is usually where I tap out. If I'd been more practical and used 5 gram proportion I could brew these even lighter, and get to a 6th (a dozen in total). I might mention that I'm re-warming water to keep this brewing using very close to boiling point temperature, not dropped much between that boil and the next infusion, in this case under a minute of cooling.
There's a pleasant sappy feel to this that works well with the rest. It connects with a positive aftertaste expression. Flavors have evolved, and I've not kept up with describing that. I interpret a main pleasant input as fruit, but others might not, and that could even sound wrong to some. There's a good bit of range, so that it could work best to describe general range scope and then individual flavor inputs. Stone fruit is on the list, but vegetal range is more pronounced. Or that really overlaps or mixes with a spice theme, again probably mild incense spice, which more often occurs in a very different overall flavor context. Bitterness stands out, of course. Sweetness might include a bit of toffee edge, but that's not easy to pick up, given the stronger vegetal and spice range. Interpreting more of it as green wood could also work.
Phousan: spice still stands out, incense spice (mostly), along with seed spice and a touch of basil. Those warm tones and sweetness are pleasant. Mushroom and wood have generally dropped out, although someone could still interpret the one part as cured wood, but I see it as having evolved more to incense spice range.
It's hard to guess about how these have evolved over 4 to 5 years, but since I've drank a lot of comparable sheng I could attempt that. Earlier on they would've been brighter in tone, and even more intense. Probably some of the early floral range has evolved to what I'm describing now. It's odd getting to round 4 and never mentioning a floral aspect, but that is a natural transition pattern. The teas tend to be more approachable in terms of bitterness and astringency evolving; these aren't challenging. Depth increases, which is kind of an emergent property, not closely tied to just one or more main aspects.
Whether or not they're better--now versus when newer--would depend on preference. That's if someone is averse to that early bitterness and astringency, or they see it as positive, when coupled with sweetness and bright floral range. These warm wood and spice tones would have resembled green wood, or other vegetal scope, often sort of like plant stem, and some could find that challenging. I might prefer a stronger astringency and vegetal edge trade-off when younger, since it couples with freshness and more floral range, typically.
I really don't care for the grassiness in some green teas, but sheng tends to be vegetal in a different way, more along the line of either green wood or edgier fresh herbs, like some other types of greens. Warmer medicinal spice notes evolve more later, after aging. Those are often along the line of ginseng, and these will continue in that direction, but change-over will take time. I don't think these were stored in overly wet / humid and warm conditions, but they're not as preserved as dry storage causes either. In the middle is good for storage conditions input, letting them evolve kind of slowly, but to keep changing.
Wawee and Phousan #5: not so different than last round, so this might be a good place to keep this short, and add more final thoughts on a next round. The Laos version is picking up more sweetness and a touch of fruit, maybe along the line of dried mango; that will probably evolve to be more noticeable, given the transition direction.
Wawee #6: I'm still using relatively fast infusion times, 10 seconds or so, and that finally relates to intensity dropping. The tea isn't fading already, but the early infusion strength is reduced. This is probably an easier intensity level to evaluate, but that kind of thing does shift which aspects you experience.
Everything is integrating more, so it's harder to break it all into a flavor list. It's the same range as before, but less distinct. There isn't enough shift in relative balance of aspects to make it worth unpacking that.
One thing I haven't mentioned: these leaves vary in color. That's surely related to them being heated a bit much in some rounds of kill-green (sha qing) processing. It's complicated how that might work out, or probably did. A touch of extra roast can add a positive flavor input, according to discussion of this very point by William of Farmerleaf (covered in this post on "oolong pu'er,"). It might add complexity, using a slight range of processed material. Then it's harder to say how that would work out related to aging potential or tea character changing across rounds of infusion, since--per my understanding--oxidation and roast input both trade out flavor change but slightly limit tea's durability, how many positive rounds it will brew.
Phousan: the best this has been; it kept evolving positively over the rounds. It's interesting how the Thai version was so much more positive early on, and now this seems more distinctive, and complex in a different way. Fruit even evolves, which I guess we can call dried mango, even though it could be closer to dried longan, or something else. This tea is better than the Thai version at this stage; so odd. The earlier spice notes are still present, transformed in how they come across, and now supporting tones instead. Apparent sweetness seems higher, maybe related to how we naturally associate some flavor range as sweet, more than tied to how some compounds cause that effect.
For really preferring dried fruit themes in sheng this is interesting, seeing how other range can fulfill a different but related function, even though this finally does express some fruit as well. It's interesting how this evolved to be cleaner, fuller, and better balanced, while the other version became less distinct. I suppose that might mean more to someone else. I'll brew both on the stronger side, giving them over 20 seconds to infuse, and pass on final thoughts on that. Seven rounds of two versions is an awful lot of tea; it will be plenty. I drank water and ate some nuts prior to this round, and took time with this process, which helps with extending it.
Wawee #7: this heavier infusion strength works well with the tea character at this point. That sappy feel returns, and a toffee note stands out again. Incense spice range, alternatively interpreted as cured hardwood, picks back up. In between the light last round and this more intense form would still be fine, probably a more natural optimum.
Phousan: ordinarily I wouldn't like a tea with this aspect set description this much (incense spice, seed spice, basil, with a bit of dried fruit). It all balances well, supported by a positive feel, a nice level of bitterness, and good aftertaste expression. I suppose it's even possible that this has better aging potential than the Thai tea, even though that aspect set is more familiar to me, and more a match to my evolved preference.
If I bought just one of these of course it would be the Wawee tea, related in part to my bias for Thai sheng.
Conclusions / other consideration range:
It's hard to evaluate long term aging potential. Would be these be great in another 10 to 15 years? As a young sheng drinker I tend to see the transition optimum within the first 3 to 5 years as a good place to drink the teas, if that works well. Some are best within the first 6 months, and others better 2 or 3 years, only changed some. Often it's early challenging nature that indicates a related tea's best form will occur 2 or 3 decades later.
I've tried more old Thai sheng that is kind of ok but not great in the 15 to 20 year old range, and probably only a couple that were older (but I do lose track). These may be like that, destined to still be fine later on, but not exceptional. Someone would really have to hold onto one to know.
What about value? This Thai tea is $45 for 200 grams, with the Laos version nearly $48 for 250, so they might be around $80 cakes at a 357 gram standard size. That's not bad, for what they are, sort of a Western industry norm. If anything lots of vendors might place the same range at just over $100, especially for valuing limited aging input as a positive, and a cost on the vendor's side. Of course buying tea within Thailand or Laos you might do better, for equivalent teas. I've seen vendors play up an old plant source theme and pass off similar teas for a lot more, but that's normal, that's just how pu'er sales often go.
So as I interpret it these are good value, but also just normal in relation to Yunnan range, pretty much at the standard level. If you interpret the origin novelty as positive, and value the limited aging input then value is great. There's not a lot available in this price range, to be better or worse. If you think SE Asian sheng should be priced lower than standard Yunnan range, as definitely occurred over the last decade, then value might not be good.
Over and over again we see gradually increasing product quality, distinctiveness, and desirability pairing with rising product costs. It would be hard to find examples this good 10 years ago, or maybe even 5, so it's not comparing apples to apples to reference past options. The same happens with Viet Sun's Vietnamese sheng; their pricing is much higher than it was just a few years ago, but the teas are better. Yunnan Sourcing's Impression series started out as blends competing with Dayi 7542, at that cost level too, $30-some to $40 per full sized cake, and now they're mostly all in the general $100 range, but again it's better tea. The days of buying a full sized $40 cake are over, unless you switch back to factory teas, which are more comparable to the older range from South East Asia. The form is different; factory teas were often mass-produced blends, but the flaws in older off-area teas made the quality level comparable.
People who drank sheng 10 to 15 years ago are familiar with another earlier form that fills in how things worked then, the white paper wrapped higher quality range, generally custom pressings. Those would often cost up towards $1 a gram, and came with descriptions that would be familiar today, related to narrow origin sources, and probably even old plant input (gushu). That probably less often related to wild origin material. We've done well to experience some of that form transitioning to quite good $100 to $140 standard cake offerings, as that became a more mainstream form, now selling for much less. Maybe not if it's still gushu, but those claims are hard to evaluate now, as then. This runs too long to dwell on that tangent, but I do associate a range of character as relating to old plant input, to a mineral base effect being different, with greater general depth, perhaps associating with more aging potential.
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the Wawee tea plants (credit Rishi site) |
All in all these were pretty good. The former Wawee material versions I've tried set a pretty high bar to match, and the Thai version was in line with that. It was interesting how the Laos tea evolved through rounds better, after a less favorable start. Both are pretty good examples of SE Asian sheng range, and both are a pretty good value, for what they are, and where other options stand.
Where else can you get South East Asian sheng, that are as good as these? Tea Side sells Thai versions, but their pricing is high, so although quality is good value often isn't. Chawang Shop sometimes sells versions, but I don't think the quality of any stood out, maybe not quite on these tea's level, even though these are just good, but not necessarily great. That one Farmerleaf Laos tea is better, but it's priced at $140, for a 357 gram cake, costing a lot more.
Rishi holds up as a good source option.
























