I last tried two very different ages of sheng pu'er versions from Legend of Tea, a Malaysian tea vendor who sent these teas for review (many thanks!). The earlier two teas were pretty good, quite solid, with value standing out even more (a Jing Mai and related area Mang Jing version). Malaysian storage was an interesting sub-theme, considering if the older version had fermentation-transitioned faster than it might elsewhere (it seemed to). Those were 2013 and 2022 versions; one part was reviewing a contrast in aging.
So this time I'm trying two more similar age versions. These are both variations of their flagship tea line, a brand term they use for varying origin teas each year (Xiao Ba Wang). It can be hard to place themes like quality level, assigning that clearly, and trueness to type for a typical origin character, or storage potential. Match to preference should be easier; that's just how much you like a tea.
I'll cite the vendor descriptions after doing the tasting notes (the teas were good; I'll add that much spoiler).
2019 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea (Jing Mai, $41.92 for 200 grams, equivalent to $75 for 357 grams)
The raw material selected by XiaoBaWang in 2019 is HuaZhuLiangZi which from MangJing ShangZhai - JingMai Ancient Tea Estate - LanCang County - XiShuangBanNa. The name “HuaZhu” originated from the wild bamboo that used to strive there. They are low in vigour, covered in moss and lichen. These epiphytic plants hang off the branches, resembling countless tails of a lion, forms an unusual yet stunning scene. The strong relish of wild mountains and the earthy scent unique to moss are marked characteristics of HuaZhu LiangZi. There is a shy floral aroma along with a sip of tea.
The tea liquor of XiaoBaWang 2019 has the strong relish of wild mountains. Its liquor taste sweet with orchid fragrance, rich endoplasmic, reveals its strong aftertaste and "yun" affords a lingering after-taste.
This is a little confusing, the different origin names, which cover different scopes. In the last related post it came up that Mang Jing can either be considered an area within the Jing Mai region or as an adjacent area, depending on how one is using origin area designations. It seems like Jing Mai is probably both a "district" of some sort and a "tea mountain," a geographic feature, which is probably nowhere near as distinct and defined as Mt. Fuji (for example). Here's a reference on Yunnan tea areas, for further reading.
I'll just continue on with calling this a Jing Mai tea here, but for people familiar with Mang Jing, or who really bought into the distinction in the last review, that might seem odd. Teas vary a lot based on different inputs, so it's not problematic for me. That last Mang Jing tea really did seem to have a forest-oriented flavor as one main aspect; I'll have to re-read these notes to see how continuous that was, since I've written notes for the next tea review after these since.
2021 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea (from Bulang, $37.21 for 200 grams, $66.42 for 357 grams)
This year, we have selected BuLang Mountain ecological tea, blended spring tea and autumn tea to increase its taste, aroma and layering. Using "Single Bud & Two Leaves" hand-plucked tea leaves as the raw material as well as retaining the traditional sun-dried and production methods. We persevered in selecting only the best quality raw materials & employ refined production methods as well as craftsmanship that guarantees a delectably mellow for your enjoyment!
When unpacking the xuan paper, you can smell the uniquely rich and sweet aroma of high-quality raw tea, tea liquor is golden like orange, with a clear and bright aroma, the sweet aroma is significant and delicate, rich in taste and connotation, the slight bitterness, which quickly dissipates and turns sweet and full of after strength.
This Bulang version was really something, but it may be that it aged into a really good place at this stage. The tasting review notes tell that story.
Review:
2019 Jing Mai (Hua Zhu Liang Zi): of course this is a bit light since I'm in the habit of trying and reviewing the rinse, or first infusion. Aged notes stand out; this has been enough aging to bring in some of that character. But it's clean, and there is some sweetness and freshness. I'll cover the rest next round.
2021 Bu Lang: there's a nice rich floral range in this, even trying it a bit on the thin side. Feel is already filling in, and it already hints at complexity. This should be nice.
2019 Jing Mai #2: it's interesting how different this is from the 2022 Jing Mai version that I've already reviewed. Of course I don't know how similar they were prior to aging, but they're in very different places now. This seems a lot more fermentation transitioned than 6 years often is.
Warm tones emerge. Mineral stands out, and some could be floral, but it's more along the lines of a vegetal range, like the scent of a forest. It's not pine in the sense of brewing fresh needles, but not far off pine forest scent. Feel is nice, thick and structured. Sweetness level is good. It is kind of directly in between fresh / new sheng and an aged version, but it works better as that than they typically do. It integrates. Maybe it's that the warmer forest range, sappy feel, and mineral tones all tie together, they make sense together.
Bitterness is present but I hardly notice it, related to the extent it has transitioned away.
[later editing note]: sometimes it seems like the review notes don't match the product listing at all, but this seems like a set-up, as if I've just written what they said. Probably that's partly from the earlier Mang Jing version I've already reviewed expressing similar character (a forest sort of scent), making it easier to notice in this.
2021 Bu Lang: this definitely includes more bitterness, and more of a still-youthful character, but it has surely changed a lot in 4 years. A different kind of mineral undertone, sappy feel, and woody sort of character makes it similar but quite different. Feel is thicker, and flavor range is more complex. That bitterness links to floral range and a pleasant sweetness. For someone averse to bitterness that could be seen as negative, but for most sheng drinkers that is at a really good level.
What I've just described as wood could be taken in all sorts of ways, and wood isn't the most natural interpretation; that was more about comparing it to the other tea version. It could taste like varying forms of spice range.
The sweetness that I see linking to rich floral range could include some dried fruit range, maybe tamarind. There's a lot going on. It should soften and change a bit as the rounds evolve, and as early rough edges smooth out. This isn't harsh though, it's quite approachable, without notable flaws, but it should deepen and mellow over the next couple of rounds.
2019 Jing Mai #3: not so different than the last round. The main limitation of this tea might be the character falling in between young and aged. It works better than usual for this tea version, and it's fine as it is, making plenty of sense, but not everyone would be on this page for preference. I like it, but then I tend to appreciate what teas offer, across a broad range, as long as they're pleasant, and lack flaws or obvious limitations.
2021 Bu Lang: the rich floral character in this works well, especially related to how tones are warm, deep, and complex. The match with bitterness is nice, to me. Feel is structured, complex, and sappy; that works too. At a guess--a complete guess, just thinking out loud to help place the experience--this is better now than it would be in two more years, with fresher floral tones still pronounced. In 5 or 10 more years the character will switch over to something else, and then match to preference would determine if that's better or not. It makes a lot of sense to me as it is just now though, as a partly aged, still sort of young character tea.
I'm not implying that the aging difference is the main input related to the two of these. Surely they were different to start, and two years ago the Jing Mai was nothing like this, and in two more this won't be like the Jing Mai version. But sheng balances differently at different aging levels, making more or less sense, and I do see where this is as more favorable, for what it is.
2019 Jing Mai #4: at this rate I'm not going to get too far through these; I used too high a proportion, and they're too strong to brew and drink a lot of in a hurry. Maybe I'll do a flash infusion next round and call it.
Pine transitioned to warmer pine forest tones is nice enough in this. Intensity is good, and feel and flavor experience coat your tongue, and carry over as aftertaste. The form of the feel might seem a little dry, not exactly a flaw, but not as thick, rich, and sappy as it could be, for matching with the flavor form. In the last Jing Mai version review I cited a Steepster review of a vaguely related version (Mang Jing, and adjacent region) in which someone said that Jing Mai and Mang Jing profiles aren't their favorite (one way of reading it). Preferences naturally vary; that makes sense.
2021 Bu Lang: I'll cite that comment I referenced, because there's something related to point out in this:
This tea from “greater Jingmai area” is light bodied with a very up-front floral but not perfumy character. I am not a big fan overall...
This Bu Lang version is "perfumy." I usually reference that in relation to similarity with perfume, and more often as tying to cognac or brandy, that one aromatic range that's not really a flavor, instead a way flavors tend to come across.
This version did "loosen up" nicely, with bitterness and warm floral tones really working together much better than over the first couple of infusions, when it was already pleasant. I suppose I'll have to conclude that I like it more.
I don't crave a high level of bitterness to make sheng work, but when it does connect it's nice. This is far from a high level of bitterness, as new or one year old sheng goes, but over four years that definitely didn't drop out. I did a second water break to clear my palate before this next round and that bitterness changes to a pronounced sweetness in aftertaste, it seems, almost no matter how much later you'd drink it.
2019 Jing Mai #5: brewing these for less than 10 seconds you can see by the color they're still strong. Someday I will learn to drop the brew proportion for a combined tasting; the first few hundred experiences haven't taught me that yet. You could push the oolongs I've been trying regularly pretty far and they would still be pleasant, and I can drink sheng kind of strong too, but the effect adds up.
This is still nice; forest tones and some floral range work together. Warm and lighter, greener tones work better together than they usually do. Comparison with the other tea version doesn't help, for it being sweeter, fuller in feel, and more complex, with lots of pronounced rich floral range.
2021 Bu Lang: it's still like I've been describing it, not one bit lighter for brewing it fast. This would probably brew a dozen pleasant infusions, even at a lower proportion. I think the balance is better for backing off the intensity, even if it's hard to tell the difference just in relation to flavor effect. Aftertaste intensity is strong enough, but not as far towards overdoing it a little.
People sometimes reference what to eat with teas, generally preferring not to eat between individual infusions for better quality versions, but then more neutral foods preference is often cited, a croissant or something such, or a bean cake to stay within Chinese range. I just finished some re-hydrated goji berry, which I eat on most days, and the sweet berry flavor was nice as a contrast to this pair of sheng ranges. There's a bit of saltiness in that, probably standing out more related to the contrast.
I'm not wearing reading glasses yet, even though I'm 56; maybe there really is something to health claims related to those, and in particular to the zeaxanthin in those goji berries. Maybe I'm also picking up lutein from a diet high in varying vegetables, which also helps?
Conclusions:
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on a kitten theme at home now |
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Myra hasn't been so receptive, but she is adjusting |
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