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Yongde Ye Sheng lower left, Krasnodar black top, Krasnodar gaba lower left |
Moychay sent a number of teas for review, which I'll be talking about for a number of weeks, for as slow as I tend to get through sets. The first review placed a 2020 Jing Mai sheng pu'er in relation to one of my favorite provider's slightly older versions (a 2016 from Tea Mania), and they seemed comparable in quality, both quite good teas. There's always other higher range, an aspect that might be a little different, but it was quite good, and a good value for the selling point.
These are black teas (which they call red, a not-uncommon reference to the literal Chinese translation of hong cha). One is a gaba black, processed in a nitrogen environment, causing the compounds that form in transition from conventional-style forms to differ. In a sense they're not "oxidized" teas then, because oxygen contact has been restricted during processing. Probably that oxidation process started at picking time, prior to that other processing, so they would be a little bit oxidized, just mostly forming different compounds based on interaction with nitrogen instead of oxygen. "Gaba" is one such resulting compound, with more on all that in this post (from 2013; I had a lot less experience to work with as a tasting baseline back then).
This won't go any further into what gaba tea is; maybe I'll get back to that more in a later post, since I have two more versions to get to. Reviewing three teas at once is a lot of ground to cover. I've reviewed plenty of gaba oolongs before here, but never a black tea. Oddly one of the best gaba versions I've ever tried was a black tea, a Ruby / Red Jada gaba processed Taiwanese black tea version, shared in a tasting session by a friend, Sasha Abramovich. Sasha is still around, just not in Bangkok, so I never cross paths with him.
The gaba oolongs I tried earlier all seemed to include a distinctive sourness that I had trouble adjusting to like. It tasted a little like an old cardboard box smells, when taken out of a damp form of storage. One even tasted like asphalt; different. The Taiwanese gaba black wasn't like either.
I've actually already tried this Yongde black version before, and based on the first try I didn't write any notes, thinking I wouldn't like it. It was tart instead, not something I like in black teas, although that range does come up. Then after just a few infusions that tartness faded, transitioning to other complex range, and the tea was quite pleasant. I had probably judged too soon.
Lately I've been considering if my appreciation for teas isn't too narrow, in rejecting that flavor range like sourness or tartness can be pleasant. It seems like one might normally run through experience of some standard versions, then sort out which of those might suit preference best, then escalate experience in quality range, and then explore more horizontally, if that last step even comes up. Of course tea experiences and preference transitions would vary.
Sourness comes up a good bit in relation to "wild-grown" tea versions, presumably tied to different plant type sources. It could also relate to a flaw in processing or storage, but one particular form of sourness is distinctive, related to what I've tried from Thai teas quite a bit. I didn't review some Monsoon "wild-origin" teas because they were sour, and I had trouble relating to that. I just re-tried a Liquid Proust tasting set example of a "wild-origin" Xiaguan sheng, presumably from China, what was quite similar. Now I'm guessing that it's a variation from the source plant, causing those common effects.
Kenneth, the owner of Monsoon, mentioned that tea enthusiasts in general seem put off by that sourness from that range of plant-source inputs, but that for whatever reasons some experienced chefs have liked them. I suppose it does make sense that someone with broad food experience and training could appreciate a very broad range of flavors, without a bias towards a narrow range of styles, as most tea enthusiasts would tend to develop.
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meeting Kenneth (waving) and Sasha (right). sorry other guy; should've taken more snaps. |
I'd mentioned one of my favorite sheng versions was from wild tree sources, produced by Kittichai of Jip Eu, a version that was sour (with a Moychay Nannuo sheng also making that list). It was sour in a slightly different form, but it overlapped, and that tea changed a lot across a relatively short span of time in storage. I bought a second cake of that tea, to see how I like it once it's fully aged, and so I can keep tasting it from time to time to witness the entire transition process. It's from 2012 or 13, as I remember, so within another half dozen years (stored in hot and humid conditions in Bangkok) I should see that change.
The point here is that I really liked that Thai tea (sheng), in spite of it being sour, I think in part because I'd reached a critical mass of exposure to other forms. And also because it has "other notes" to experience; it wasn't that it just stood out for only that one sour flavor. As I've drank through most of 50 grams of a wild Thai black tea from Monsoon I'm more ok with that sourness. I don't know that I like it, but it's not bad, I can appreciate it as something else to experience.
On with it then. I'll copy down as much as I can about these teas and look up what I can of descriptions prior to the final edited write-up.
Yongde Ye Sheng, Hong Cha, 2020 (black tea from a relatively natural source, I think that means). Pulling up a random vendor description for that area:
https://camellia-sinensis.com/en/blog/new-discovery-pu-er-2019-yongde-da-shan
...After visiting Xishuangbanna, Jasmin traveled up north, towards the region of Pu Er, then to Lincang. In these regions, tea production is more modest and less famous (despite the presence of big names like Bingdao or Xigui). The traffic is much lower. Local buyers are rare here. Despite superb product quality, prices remain much lower than in Xishuangbanna. The Yongde region specifically is one of the few tea producing regions in Yunnan that still escapes the growing turmoil of the terroir and the high rise in prices we have seen in recent years...
Moychay's description (from that link):
Red tea "Youngde Yesheng Hong Cha" made in 2020 in Youngde County, Yunnan province. The first spring shoots of wild tea trees were used as raw materials...
The bouquet of the ready-made tea is vivid, berry-and-woody with hints of barberry caramel, tropical flowers, aromatic wood resins, and exotic fruits. The fragrance is bright, berry-floral. The taste is rich and juicy, sweetish, with a fine woody tartness, spicy nuances, and the lingering finish.
That's about right. The selling price seems a bit high compare to the Dian Hong (Yunnan black) I've tried or bought, but then this was a unique version, with market prices for materials shifting final selling prices, and different people could value the experience differently.
Often Yunnan black teas are made from later harvested material, even sometimes from a middle harvest period between the spring and fall. Sometimes that means that versions can lose a lot of intensity, but I think in some such cases it still tends to work out well, producing very pleasant versions that just need to be pushed a little harder and can brew out a bit fast.
Krasnodar Red Organic Tea, Spring 2020 I looked for a range of Russian teas in visiting Russia awhile back but only managed to find green tea from that country, and black teas from Georgia.
In appearance: large, reddish-brown, curved leaves with long cuttings and thin tips. The aroma is intensive, floral with a fruity accent. The liquor is transparent, with a shade of yellow amber.
The bouquet of ready-made tea is multifaceted and vivid, fruity-floral with notes of rye bread, spicy herbs and honey biscuit. The aroma is warm, fruity-and-biscuit. The taste is refined and full-bodied, silky and sweet, a bit tart, with berry acidity, spicy nuances and refreshing finish.
Krasnodar Red Gaba Tea (Diagomys), Spring 2020 that gaba version; should be interesting
In appearance: large, reddish-brown, curved leaves with long cuttings and thin tips. The aroma is intensive, floral with a honey accent. The liquor is transparent, with a shade of yellow amber.
The bouquet of ready-made tea is multifaceted and vivid, fruity-floral with honey, biscuit, citrus and spicy notes. The aroma is high and sweet, honey. The taste is refined and full-bodied, oily and sweet, with berry acidity, spicy nuances and long, refreshing finish.
Review:
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Yongde black left, Krasodar middle, Krasnodar gaba right, in all photos |
Yongde Ye Sheng: that's quite tart; it helps expecting that. Even though that one aspect is a bit much for me to love the tea knowing that it's coming helps. Of course the flavor is similar to cranberry, or something along that line. I'm from a small town called Cranberry, actually (a bit unrelated). Being a first infusing the aspects aren't fully developed yet, and with tartness that strong the rest isn't standing out. As I remember the tartness should dominate the second round too, then ease up, and by around the fourth the character will be completely different.
Krasnodar black: I did not see that coming. There's a warm, rich, earthy-into-spice sort of complexity in this tea, dominated by pronounced range that's relatively completely unfamiliar to me. As flavor goes it includes a sort of fresh baked bread warmth, and also slight sourness, but beyond the actual flavor there's an impression of lots of other complex range headed in different directions. It's like the smell of a very old study (den, private library), with old books, leather, and old clocks and such giving off traces of completely unfamiliar scents, mostly in a warm, rich range, with the odd unfamiliar metallic or aromatic oil based note. A decent amount of unfamiliar root spice rounds that out.
The slight sourness leans towards a trace of mustiness, but within the next two rounds that it takes to evolve this to where it will be all that might change completely. It's interesting, and positive in overall effect in this form.
Krasnodar gaba: this is kind of the opposite, striking just one particular note (in opposition to the tea prior being a composite of a lot going on). It's not the straight-sourness I've ran across in the oolongs but it's definitely in the sour range. It helps having been drinking sour tea for a month or so to adjust to that range. I just re-tried that Xiaguan wild sheng from Liquid Proust, and the theme really came together as common ground to me, after drinking that Monsoon Thai black at work a number of times.
This banging on the one particular note might be an issue. I'm sure it will evolve in the next two infusions too, but it's not a great sign having it just show that narrow a range so early. There is a hint of nice sweetness beyond that, and earthy warmth, towards the range of leather or maybe even cinnamon, but it will need to show through better to isolate and describe it.
I'm in the habit of using the first round as a starting point, brewing it light to see where things are going, so part of these not evolving fast relates to my own personal approach to brewing. Anyone using a rinse would skip past all that a different way (I only rinse pu'er and hei cha, as a rule, or maybe something else if an inclination strikes me).
Second infusion:
Yongde De Sheng: coming in nicely; the next round should be more about where this is going. It's a bit extra tart for my preference still but much better balanced already. A lot of the other range is pleasant, even catchy. This is fruity as black teas go, moving off the cranberry range into richer, sweeter fruit. It even seems like a hint of citrus rounds that out, along the lines of blood orange, something rich and sweet (like a softer and sweeter version of red grapefruit).
Krasnodar black: this shifted to become better than I thought it could; so fast. There's still a "rustic" sort of edge to it, a trace of sourness, but the main range is very complex with pleasant flavors, and clean and sweet. It's really too much to unpack, and interpretations would vary so much that two people drinking it together would probably be unlikely to agree. It's interesting how "at the bottom" a mineral edge includes a trace of salt, rounding out the rest.
I should be able to place this better, related to at least categories like fruit or floral, but the effect is that a lot is going on, making it hard to get a clear read on any one part of it. That integrates well; that's what makes or breaks a tea this complex in profile, and in this case it works. I think openness to range beyond a style that's exactly what you expect is also critical; this isn't a standard Chinese black tea form. I'll pass on a main range to help at least make some sense; I get the effect that a main foundational context flavor is along the line of sweet potato or yam (probably yam, if I remember those right). Then some earthy and floral range fills that in, along with that unusual mineral form.
Krasnodar gaba: at least this did evolve a secondary pleasant flavor aspect to join the other, even in balance of input with it. It's a sort of rose-floral note, as I interpret it. It has a sweetness and lightness to it that it's also not so far from the Japanse sakura flavor (cherry blossoms), a distinctive floral scent. A trace of fruit flavor probably is closest to actual cherry too. If that sourness keeps dropping out (it's essentially secondary, at this point) and more complexity picks up this could be really pleasant. It gives up a little being tasted next to a complex version of a tea, as if it should somehow match that. Aspects grouping into a narrower range, or even being less intense, isn't necessarily a bad thing, since it's about how pleasant the combined set and overall effect are, not reaching some sort of score for one or more ranges.
It is odd how this doesn't show the same earthy range of flavor common to most black tea, or really expressed as a broad range. That other wild Thai black version I've been mentioning was like that; it just doesn't seem like a black tea. Then if you can move past that and appreciate it for how it is, versus matching or not meeting expectations, it can be enjoyable. Of course a tea completely matching your own preference is a different thing; that's going to work better. But experiencing a range is interesting in a different way, and preferences can broaden over time.
This third round should be interesting, since all three of these seem to have been "heading somewhere," just in different senses.
Third infusion:
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interesting color variations; the third doesn't really look like black tea |
Yongde Ye Sheng: that tartness is now a supporting element, maybe even one that someone could miss in interpreting the range of what is going on, although from expecting it that does stand out. Other fruit and floral range is quite pleasant, with warm tones balancing that out nicely. There is no noticeable astringency, just a bit of fullness to round out the feel. I won't be saying a lot about feel or aftertaste range in this review, in part due to that not being pronounced for any of these, and also because comparing three teas narrows the range of focus down, to mostly considering only flavor. It will probably work better to describe a flavor list for this tea next round.
Krasnodar black: something distinctive evolved in this; it's cool feeling like I'm one step behind in really describing the range that I'm experiencing. The main flavor base might still be something close to a well-roasted yam, with the sweetness and warmth that would emerge from that. Warm mineral also stands out, but I think something along the line of root spice is what I'm talking about. Or I suppose that could be a bark spice; the other range tied to mineral and the rest tends to mix. It's hard to describe in detail but this works well because in spite of that complexity, the broad range this is covering, there are no negative aspects to work around. Flavors are quite clean, sweetness is good, balance works, and none of those components seems off in any way. A bit of mustiness, or mushroom, or less pleasant mineral would really throw off this final effect. To play the devils' advocate the set of aspects and overall character is unusual, so not everyone would love it. Beyond that it really works.
Krasnodar gaba: compared to the last tea this is even more unusual in character, but what stands out drinking them one after the other is the split in one being complex and the other narrow in aspect-range scope. This hasn't really shifted further; a pleasant light fruit tone, closest to cherry, stands out most, with some limited warmer range offsetting that. The rest isn't that warm or heavy, towards cured hay, or even balsa wood. In the end it's an odd effect, not unbalanced, but for sure not complex. Pushing the tea and brewing it stronger might help, but that's only going to make that narrow range stronger. There being some thickness to the feel helps, lending it that touch more complexity.
The relatively neutral earthy tones are adding intensity to flavor, just in a way that's harder to notice or appreciate in relation to other range (fruit, floral, warm mineral tones, roasted yam). Related to personal preference I can't say that I love this tea but I sort of get it. It's not like for the Taiwanese oolong versions where an odd sourness made those hard to appreciate; that part transitioned away, for the most part.
Fourth infusion:
Yongde Ye Sheng: really this is just getting into the range of character I would like most for this tea, per my last impression. It will keep improving, but these review notes can't really cover 7 or 8 rounds because I just can't drink that much tea. And I'm not going to throw some of the brewed tea away; to me that's disrespectful. I get it how for tea professionals in lots of context that would seem silly, or stupid, or impractical, but I'm a tea drinker, not a tea professional. If I don't want to discard brewed tea I don't have to. If this review stops after 5 rounds instead of 8 that works for me.
Fruit range is complex for this tea, and mild earthy tone will keep picking up. It's hinting a little towards cinnamon, and it will keep developing along that line, with fruit range that's closer to tart dropping out.
Krasnodar black: a heavier, deeper flavor keeps increasing. It's almost like black licorice at this stage, a spice-like aspect. In one sense this tea is great for exhibiting a lot of complexity, although I guess for the range being limited maybe it wouldn't match what someone expects. Feel is smooth with some fullness, but there's no astringency. To me that's positive, but I could imagine an Assam drinker seeing this as too thin. Not to keep repeating, but the unconventional nature is either very positive or problematic, depending on how one takes that.
Krasnodar gaba: maybe that last statement applies even more so to this tea. It's narrower yet in aspect range, in a way that could naturally be interpreted as lacking depth and complexity, even balance. A limited range of positive flavor does help, the light fruit tone, edging into sweet floral, with other relatively neutral earthier tones, along the lines of cured hay or mild root spice. It might help to not expect this to be black tea at all. I'm not sure what other range it maps better to though. As with the Monsoon Thai black tea, the wild version, or maybe even more so their oolongs, it's kind of on its own page.
For being so mild this might work out well enough brewed "grandpa style," in a tea bottle or glass, left to stay in contact with the water as one drinks it. That's one of the most traditional forms of brewing used in China, although it's seen as a "lower" form by some who are into Gong Fu practice, the relatively opposite approach of using a high proportion and short times, as I'm brewing these. I've not been mentioning timing but I've been brewing these for around 15 seconds, maybe just over, plenty of time to get good infusion strength out of them, at these parameters. For some teas you need to moderate that to offset one or more aspects (astringency, bitterness, or even flavor intensity) but these would all work at different infusion strengths, they are all quite mild.
It might be interesting to "push" them, to brew one more round closer to 30 seconds and see how that goes. I think as I've been brewing them is more optimum, back at standard infusion strengths.
Fifth infusion:
Yongde Ye Sheng: tartness picks back up for pushing infusion strength. It's still pleasant, with a good bit of fruit coming across. Part of that seems warm and rich to me, something towards dried longan, then other fruit range is lighter and quite different, like apple range, just not that of typical grocery store apples. As a child we would go pick fresh apples at local orchards (in Western PA), and the range of apple types and flavors extends a lot beyond what is now sold in places like Wal-Mart. Most of the types were better, as I remember, maybe just not as well-suited for large scale commercial production.
Since this does include a bit of tartness it reminds me a little of how a fresh cider comes across, the fresh apple juice that naturally ferments as it contacts any air at all. That can be really catchy, that final effect. Maybe it's not closest to the range of best cider versions in this, and not nearly that intense, but it's along a similar line.
In tasting it in later rounds it occurred to me that it tastes closest to berry. Doing reviews based on a single tasting version can miss something like that, the most obvious flavor interpretations, or other range. I suppose getting a general impression across is the thing anyway, since interpretations would always vary.
Krasnodar black: one interesting part of this tea has been that the flavor shifts every single round. A lot of the same base is present, and it only changes so much round to round, but it does transition a lot. Brewed a little stronger some tart / sour fruit comes out a little more, but the extra intensity also lets it show flavor depth across a broad range. A lot of that is probably the effect of suggestion, but this reminds me a little more of apple in this round too. Woodiness picks up a little too, in a range that's not easy to describe. Coupled with that fruit and tanginess it's closest to types of fresh cut trees that wouldn't be familiar to many, or not so different than the scent of mowing down a "briar patch." Like crab-apple wood scent, I guess, not that the description would clarify things for many.
Krasnodar gaba: even with the bump in infusion strength this is still really mild. It's interesting how there is a split in the range, how the light, sweet fruit and floral range is one part, and that doesn't necessarily connect with a soft and rich base of mild flavors. Even though the effect is that of a tea without a lot of complexity it still works, those two notes that integrate nicely together. For pushing the brewed strength the mild cured hay and root spice does edge a little toward a fresh wood tone, but in this case a very neutral version of one. Like cutting into a sassafrass tree? My wood harvesting days are so far back I'm just guessing at this point. Cherry wood matches that fruit aspect, since the cut wood does contain the fruit scent, but I'm talking about the more neutral range instead. Nothing like pine or oak, if that helps. Maple wood can be a bit mild but this is even more mild.
Conclusions:
Three very different, interesting teas. These have in common being unconventional. I think if someone valued that experience, trying something new, these would work really well for them. There was nothing really challenging about any of them, for lacking astringency, off flavors, or any negative range. I suppose if someone dislikes tartness, as I did more in the past, then to some extent that could be a factor.
I personally don't think it's a good or bad thing to have a broad or narrow preference in the range of what you like in tea. It's just a preference issue, only subjective. I suppose local tea cultures might influence someone to experience more of one side or the other, to focus in on experiencing the highest quality versions of standard types, or explore common subthemes like aged teas, or else to branch out and try varying origin and styles of teas. Getting to it all is relatively impossible, but putting focus on making the attempt would vary.
It goes without saying, but all of these teas would be fine brewed Western style. Maybe even better; sometimes it does work out that mixing the aspect range of the narrow infusion time "slices" can be even more pleasant. Only experimentation determines that, and as I keep saying personal preference would definitely be a factor. I'll mess with these to see, but I probably won't check back in to mention that, since I keep moving on to trying other things.
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they also sent some teaware; they've been experimenting with making that this year |
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really interesting character for those pieces; one is more "organic" than I'm used to seeing |
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