I'll keep the intro part short here; this is another version of Wuyi Yancha from Wuyi Origin, sent by my friend Cindy for me to try (more so than for review, but both). Their description:
Location: Qing shi yan (青狮岩) zheng yan garden
Harvest date: 2020.4.28th
Roasting style: Two times Roasting, Medium Roasting style
The first time roast : July 1st, the second time roast : August 14th
Feature:
The Qilan variety of Wuyi Mountain was introduced from Pinghe County, Southern Fujian in the 1990s. Because Qilan grows well under the unique and excellent geographical conditions of Wuyi Mountain, the Qilan quality under the unique Wuyi rock tea production technology is even more superior. Beloved by the masses, it is widely planted in Wuyishan area.
Dry tea: the strips are neat and curly, the color is brown and green, and the color is oily and shiny; the color of the soup: the tea soup is orange and yellow, the entrance is mellow and sweet, and the teeth and cheeks are fragrant after the swallowing; the bottom of the leaf: yellow and bright, with a light green bottom and red border.
The flavor is sweet, with the typical mineral taste of Wuyi tea. A flowery orchid aroma and cinnamon flavor. Very pleasant and smooth aftertaste as well. It has a pleasant, very subtle menthol-like effect in the aftertaste. Qi lan is a quite popular Pinzhong among others pinzhong in Wuyi.
There is more cited that defines the term "Pinzhong" after the review section.
I tend to not usually bring up value, unless there is an unusual point to be made, but this seems to be a good place to break form. That lists for $32 for 100 grams (which I'm assuming is identical to what I reviewed, although there really could be different batches or mixes of batches being sold).
If it is identical that's a great value for this tea. It seems odd saying that about a 32 cent a gram tea; that's a bit for tea, for some types and quality levels. Let's check a seemingly comparable source, the Tea Drunk shop in NYC (not a fair comparison, direct sales from a vendor based in China and a physical shop in a high-rent area, but I'll address that part).
Their Qi Lan here lists for $20 for 1 ounce, or 28 grams, so 71 cents per gram, more than double. There's a really good chance this shop tea version isn't nearly as good; the Wuyi Origin package literally says "prize winner." There are different local Wuyishan tea region competitions and apparently a version of this tea won an award, which I take to mean first place, but it could mean just "placing," ranked but lower. They run through an awful lot of submission versions, with it a point of pride among local producers to be recognized; if it really was "only a top 5" award that's meaningful.
That's really not a fair comparison, since that shop has rent and staff costs to cover, with physical-shop pricing running higher than for online-only shops, even for online sales from such outlets. It's good to also support your local shops, if you value them and want them to stick around, even if you do pay a bit more for the teas. Let's check a well-regarded US online vendor to flatten out that comparison point, Seven Cups:
Qi Lan, Rock Wulong 2018: 25 grams selling for $24.30
So selling for even more, $1 / gram. This tea may or may not be comparable in quality to the Wuyi Origin version; only trying both tells that story. Styles can vary slightly, and that's where personal preference starts to inform more than an "objective" quality level. Since that is a well-regarded source it will be interesting to cross-check their interpretation of the type-typical style:
Qi Lan stands out among rock wulongs by virtue of its distinctive lingering orchid fragrance. Named “Lan” (orchid) for its floral character, it is smooth and complex rather than sharp. Qi Lan producers strive for a tea with a well-developed aroma that has sweet notes reminiscent of caramelized sugar. Its initial subtlety encourages you to breathe its fragrance in more deeply and experience the lasting rich character. The aroma and flavor build up to a rich complexity as you drink this tea through its many bright yellow-orange infusions.
Qi Lan is always lightly roasted to preserve its beautiful aroma. In addition, the traditional charcoal roasting of the leaves helps create a deep, full flavor. This tea is famous for the developing sweetness that lingers after the tea is swallowed. Its soft and slippery flavor betrays no hint of bitterness or tannic sharpness...
...While some varieties of Qi Lan are given a slightly heavier roast, our Qi Lan is the lightest-roasted variety with the highest aroma.
That's a citation of a much longer passage about the history, typical growing area, and processing themes related to the tea type, with the rest also worth a read. That last sentence I included to fill in that earlier comment about stylistic variations; there is a norm for processing approach and final style in these types of teas, with some range for interpretation within that. What people mean by terms like light and heavy (related to roasting) tend to be a bit variable, and again trying the teas fills in that meaning best.
I don't doubt that the Seven Cups' version is exceptional tea, even though I've never tasted a single version of anything they produce, based on accepting hearsay input. I would expect it to be stylistically varied, if only slightly, from this Wuyi Origin version, versus "giving up" much in quality, and being on a completely different level. Presumably it couldn't be substantially better than a local award winning version, even if individual batch differences may add some variation. On the value side I expect that Wuyi Origin is just underpriced, related to how it could go selling teas directly versus adding a resale and import step.
It goes without saying but all of my guesses should be taken with a grain of salt. Trying the teas tells the story; the rest is speculation, guesses based on hearsay and common patterns.
Review:
First infusion: amazing, of course. I get accustomed to their teas being lightly roasted, and this is more on the medium side; the input comes across more. Putting it on a scale doesn't work because the entire over-roasted range is more typical than it probably should be, and reference to it means nothing to me in terms of placement. A bit of the char flavor in more-roasted oolong versions comes across, but just a trace, limited enough that it seems likely that it could fade fast. Resting these tea versions changes things too; this might come across slightly differently in another six months.
The rest of the flavor range is interesting. To me it's closest to a combination of floral tone, which is warm and subdued, and more pronounced well-roasted almond flavor. The way that underlying mineral, underlying warm floral tone, touch of char, and heavy almond flavor combine is nice. I think a bit more of an aromatic effect I think of as congnac-like will develop as this keeps going, once it's really started [interesting that this comment was from trying the tea, not a type-typical expectation; I added these citations, and first read them, only after doing the review].
Feel is already pronounced, and aftertaste, and this is only the first round. The feel coats your tongue, heavy and smooth, along with a heavy mineral tone, and both trail into a related aftertaste expression. It's so complex and full in feel that it seems to affect your whole mouth, lingering on as aftertaste + "afterfeel." Different.
Second infusion: I brewed this fast since the intensity is high, also related to using a relatively full gaiwan. This tea version is intense enough that for once using less tea to help moderate that might be better. The proportion of earlier aspects present shifts a bit, and intensity ramps up. Even using a lighter proportion really fast infusions would be enough. It comes across as one single, integrated flavor range, but what is there is actually very complex. In addition to the mineral tone, slight char (receded already), touch of floral, and heavy almond other spice-like tone seems to join in, something like ginseng, but I suppose maybe not that.
It picks up a touch of vegetal character, like a very aromatic hardwood. That probably sounds different than I intend it, since cheap oolong or black tea versions tend to be woody, but a touch of cedar (not that, but I'll call it that) joining all the rest of this is a completely different effect. Or it would be natural to interpret that as an extension of the notable root spice. It's complex. This part is going to sound strange too but that combination isn't complete different than licking the back of an envelop, that particular form of glue. It's really pleasant though, so crazy to be saying this tastes like wood or glue. Those are descriptions that inform what one component is, but only the experience of the whole would pass on a more complete impression of that intended meaning.
This is one of the more complex and intense Wuyi Yancha versions I've ever tried. Since I really love fruit in them it's not in the range that matches my standard strongest preference, but I suspect this will evolve to include more aromatic range and an overall balance that is a truly unique experience. It's just getting started.
Third infusion: the aspects include most of the same as the last round, but the balance is different, with a shift in the vegetal range. It went from relatively close to ginseng to more like a tree leaf. This part is a little odd, because it's like the scent of fresh leaves, not so much the "fallen leaf" range, maybe maple or oak, a temperate climate range leaf scent. Floral tone is still filling that in, and an almond flavor that's now evenly balanced with the rest. Mineral is just as intense but less warm, shifting a little towards a light metal range, or actual salt. It all balances really well; nothing stands out as dominant. Nothing in this complex range could be considered a flaw, although of course preference would dictate if someone really loved any part or the whole.
To be clear all this end-effect is familiar. Unless I'm remembering wrong an exceptional Ban Tian Yao I reviewed a long time ago--five years ago--was pretty close to this, complex across a floral / mineral / nut / root spice range. Few teas I've ever tried match this for intensity, consistent and integrated complexity, and aftertaste expression. Feel is interesting, and notable, but that kind of thing comes up.
This might be the kind of tea that someone new to the range might not like as much, without really knowing why. It's not at all challenging but it's a lot to take in, across a range that's not as immediately appealing as strong, simpler fruit or floral tone, or a plain-cinnamon Rou Gui. You have to be able to appreciate the complexity, and to some extent how it's shifting from round to round, but without valuing that transition at all you could still like it.
Fourth infusion: somehow the warmth seemed to bump a little; odd. This flavor range is so tightly integrated but that sort of broken down list approach to explaining it seems wrong; it comes across as all one thing. That cognac-like aromatic aspect did increase, an effect you get from that type of brandy, or maybe in some kinds of liqueur, or present in the scent of perfume.
Roast level seems perfect at this stage, drawing out very pleasant complexity, and tying it all together. There is no trace or hint of a distinct char aspect. Even the other parts, almond, ginseng, fresh tree leaf, etc., all seem so well integrated that it's just one very complex flavor now. It will be interesting to see how Cindy describes this.
Fifth infusion: it probably did shift slightly from last round but I really can't describe how. Maybe that warmth makes the spice range that had been more like root seem closer to cinnamon now. A flavor break-down goes against actually describing this experience, since it's so integrated. That pronounced aromatic range is really nice, the way it links with and extends from the rest. It would make it natural to describe this as coming across as more floral now, but to me the complexity just integrates together. It's interesting how a dominant early almond tone transitioned to balance along with the rest, and how strong underlying mineral also did.
This is definitely one of the more interesting and better Wuyi Yancha versions I've yet to try. I wouldn't say that it's "over my head" but my normal tastes are a little more basic. I can appreciate what I'm experiencing, but a much simpler and less refined version would be essentially just as pleasant, in a range that matches my personal preference. Taken in a different way more basic Wuyi Yancha versions would stand in this one's shadow, and seem less desirable for not matching it across those extra dimensions.
Sixth infusion: more of the same. Mineral seems to be playing a slightly larger role now, and I'd expect subtle shifts like that to keep happening, for the balance to adjust a bit. The result is still completely integrated, very pleasant.
I've not really mentioned sweetness related to this tea, and that input is moderate. It matches the other range, which isn't exactly savory, but more towards that side (nuts, warm floral, root spice, etc.). The overall effect is very pleasant balance. I suppose I might appreciate styles more that include more sweetness and fruit, towards a separate preference for Dian Hong black tea. Of course I've been more on sheng for a few years, so I'm open to a broad range, to lots of mineral, sweetness or not so sweet, and a broad range of flavor and other character. Related to that type and range, the overall intensity and complexity of this version works well. Of course it has no sheng bitterness or more structured feel, or the different range of complex flavors well-aged versions express, but there is lots going on.
I'll leave off here; it's nice to try a few rounds without making notes, and it must get old reading sentence after sentence about minor transitions. This was really exceptional tea. The description may not have did justice to how much I liked it, covering more on the analytical side, breaking down what was going on with it. It's easier to "gush" about how fantastic a tea is when it completely matches main personal preference, and this was as much a case of noticing how exceptional the character and effects were.
I'd expect tea at this quality level to more typically be priced at double or triple this cost, so it is a good chance for someone to try a version on the next level for style and quality at a great value. I would guess that this is a great version of Wuyi Yancha for people who already love Wuyi Yancha, and not as suitable a starting point. It wasn't challenging in any way; I don't mean that. There was no astringency, or any negative aspect to "work around." The very clear quality level, refined nature, aromatic character, feel and aftertaste, integrated and balanced flavor set, and pleasant transitions across infusions were all easy to appreciate. But they do produce sweeter or fruitier versions, or more familiar "Da Hong Pao" range, all of which might seem more conventional, to some, if based on limited type exposure.
Post-script: Ming cong versus Pinzhong Wuyi Yancha types
Wuyi Origin / Cindy lists the cultivar / product types in these two different groups on their site, and it may be unclear to some what those mean (as it was to me). She includes a blog section in that site that covers some growing and processing descriptions, with the most recent post covering this distinction (with most of that short entry cited here):
Ming Cong:
Ming Cong means they are all with long histories, and most of them were named with some special kinds of stories... The most popular Ming Cong in Wuyishan now are :
Qidan(奇丹）, Beidou（北斗）, Tieluohan（铁罗汉）, Shuijingui(水金龟 ）, Baijiguan （白鸡冠）, Bantianyao(半天腰）, Rougui（肉桂） and Laocongshuixian (老枞水仙）
For this Ming cong, except their own features, they always with very strong tea energy, we always bake them to medium or high-level degree. Through the baking can force their essence to come out and this kind of baking style is quite good to be drunk in the second year or third year...
Pinzhong:
Most of the Pinzhong were imported from other tea growing places or through Hybridization in the 90s.
Now the most popular Pinzhong in Wuyi like Qilan (奇兰）, Meizhan （梅占）, Foshou （佛手））, huangmeigui（黄玫瑰）, huang guanyin (黄观音）, huang dan （黄旦）, jin mudan （金牡丹）, jin yaoshi（金钥匙）, jin qian(金钱）, queshe(雀舌）, Bairuixaing(白瑞香）baxian(八仙）and so on, too many different Pinzhong.
Like Meizhan is from Anxi tieguanyin growing area, Baxian is from Taiwan Wulong cultivars. Huang guanyin is from Hybridization of huang dan and Tie guanyin. Different pinzhong, they are with different kinds of aroma, but one same common thing is that they all do not have very strong body comparing to the Ming Cong. So for the baking, we always use bake them light style or medium style to keep their special aroma.
Of course there is more to be said about all that. Her summary of two distinct, uniform preparation styles is surely oversimplified to make an abbreviated, practical point. People love to try to "poke holes" in any simple definitions and categorizations, and separating that broad a set of plant types into two distinct groups could easily lead to sweeping aside a grey area, or other potential distinctions. All the same, her understanding is much better grounded, and more developed and reliable, than standard vendor input, never mind tea group discussion hearsay or other online content. She grew up around these plants, as her daughters now do.
Another TChing post about to "go up" is about tea themes bringing people together. Given the holiday season timing this seems a good time to mention that I really do appreciate having online friends like Cindy, and the others I mention in that post, and the many that I don't bring up. Thanks for taking part by reading some of these ideas, and humoring me if I ask you questions by random contact message, or go a bit far with enthusiastic tea group discussion.
This would be a great place to include a picture of Cindy's family but since I don't have a recent version I'll have to settle for more of my own munchkins, the standard inclusion here.
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