Showing posts with label Qi Lan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Qi Lan. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 8, 2021

Wuyi Origin Qi Lan (rock oolong)

 



the same leaves photographed inside, much different in color; strange


I didn't write any intro part making tasting notes so I'll leave that part thin here too.  I wrote more about the background on this tea, and a nearly identical review, related to a 2020 version here.  I was blown away by just how good that tea was, how balanced it is, and refined, with a really pleasant complex aspect range, and I just went through all that again.  

During tasting I was curious how Cindy described this tea (the Wuyi Origin owner) and cite that in with the notes.  I might add that I could be biased towards their teas because Cindy is one of my absolute favorite tea contacts, more a friend than a vendor contact to me, but you can double check my positive impression on their teas in any tea group.  Just search Wuyi Origin and every comment essentially says that the teas are amazing.  

They're doing a tea club theme now too, which would have to be interesting.  I really should subscribe to that, for being a fan, and just to try to return some of the favor for her sharing teas to try (this was sent by her, not bought), but in part related to honoring my wife's opinion on the matter I keep my own tea spending ridiculously low, closer to zero than should be possible.  We're not quite that poor, I do work in IT as a mid level manager, but it's within a Thai compensation scale, which is sad if you think about it too much.  We've got a good life here though, so I don't overthink that.


Review:




First infusion:  just great, as expected.  It's the balance and refinement of their teas that really stands out, as clearly a higher quality level version than 99% of everything else I ever try.  This one smells a lot like rich cocoa but then the taste includes more of an aromatic cognac type range, along with integrated floral tones, and plenty of scope beyond that.  

There are a few distinct styles of wuyi yancha and this is a great example of one of them.  One style relates to overburned examples, and another is really woody or tobacco like somewhat lower quality range.  Then some are quite fruity, although that isn't common.  Some can include pronounced flavors like cinnamon (especially Rou Gui), or other spice range.  Then one form is more subtle and floral, with a perfume-like or even cognac related range, balancing other subtle inputs, like this.  I suppose they might keep oxidation level moderate as a stylistic choice for their teas; they could trade out some fresh effect and even complexity for warmer tones pushing a little further with that.  To be clear I'm not second-guessing their processing skill or choices; they're nailing it.

Roast contributes to that rich flavor but you don't actually taste roast (char).  One part is like spice too.  It would be interesting to see what Cindy describes the main flavors like in this.  It would be easy to just say floral; that's definitely dominant.  Something like a light version of roasted chestnut would make sense as an interpretation; once you think of that it tastes a lot like it [interesting that last year's version included an almond range instead, similar but different].




Second infusion:  I'll break normal convention here and quote Cindy's Qi Lan description:


 The Qilan variety of Wuyi Mountain was introduced from Pinghe County, Southern Fujian in the 1990s. Because Qilan grows well under the unique and excellent geographical conditions of Wuyi Mountain, the Qilan quality under the unique Wuyi rock tea production technology is even more superior. Beloved by the masses, it is widely planted in Wuyishan area.

   Dry tea: the strips are neat and curly, the color is brown and green, and the color is oily and shiny; the color of the soup: the tea soup is orange and yellow, the entrance is mellow and sweet, and the teeth and cheeks are fragrant after the swallowing; the bottom of the leaf: yellow and bright, with a light green bottom and red border.

    The flavor is sweet, with the typical mineral taste of Wuyi tea. A flowery orchid aroma and cinnamon flavor. Very pleasant and smooth aftertaste as well. It has a pleasant, very subtle menthol-like effect in the aftertaste. Qi lan is a quite  popular Pinzhong among others pinzhong in Wuyi. 


Floral with cinnamon; that works.  What she means by dividing tea types there into traditional versions and later derived tea plant types is interesting, described in this blog post.

Cinnamon really ramped up in that; I suppose this could pass for a Rou Gui.  Of course I do notice a menthol-like effect in the aftertaste, having been directed towards noticing it.  The feel stands out more to me, the way it has a novel form of thickness to it.  Not as heavy as many types of oolong, but unique in effect.  A slightly "green" edge stands out in this; it seems to match a lighter oxidized style common for some of these.  I suppose the balance, quality, and refinement are what really mark this as unique though, the way it all comes together.  No one ever accidentally made a tea this good, guessing about production process working out well.

The heavy floral tone makes it seem more perfume-like than liquor-like at this stage, which I see as two similar effects.  

It's a little strange for me to be drinking tea this good.  I can tell what it is, and can appreciate it, but I also have a rough and basic palate, so that I can also appreciate and love tea experience way at the other end of the spectrum.  This would make more sense for people who try to only drink the best possible teas, not that it's off-putting that it's this good.  It's just two whole levels better than I really need to drink to see a tea as pleasant.




Third infusion:  I'll probably cut these notes short for a new reason, not because I'm rushed this morning, or because I'm tired of listing out ideas, but just to appreciate the tea without writing. It's a rare pleasant cool morning (72 F now, so 23 C or so) and I'm having tea outside to get the most from that, and to get further from the noise of my kids.

The tea isn't transitioning beyond the balance of aspects shifting a bit, with floral, cinnamon, aromatic perfume-like range, and other mild vegetal background changing in proportion.  That initial roasted chestnut faded to a nice background tone, one that complements the rest really well.  The vegetal range is along the lines of a touch of green wood.  For once maybe I really feel "cha qi;" who knows.  Hearing family shouting and rushing to get to the next task don't lend to noticing subtle shifts in internal state.  

I'm behind on turning post drafts into finished versions too; I could touch up a couple instead of straining to see how this tea shifts slightly over three more rounds.


Fourth infusion:  some of the pronounced and distinctive flavors might be fading a little but the warmth and depth seems to increase.  This will be amazing for a significant number of further rounds.


Fifth infusion:  on that last round it could've been that I let those leaves get a bit cool while finishing another post (on trying two really nice Laos sheng; you should check that out).   Since it is actually cool outside that might've affected brewing temperature.  

I talk like I'm brewing tea in the snow but it's probably moving up towards 74 F now, so almost up to 25 C, what we consider to be room temperature.  Trying the tea this round it seems to just be transitioning.  Cinnamon and floral is fading some but mineral depth picks up a lot, and a richness in feel and general character is as strong as ever.  That "rock" taste really comes out.  I think after 3 or 4 more very positive rounds this will turn a bit woodier, still ok but not what it has been.  Of course if someone pushed the brewing proportion less, and used longer infusion times, all of that would've played out much faster. 


Conclusion:


As good as tea tends to get, per what I ever experience.  Part of what is strange about experiencing that, as I mentioned, is that I'm mostly on sheng pu'er these days, and tend to drink black tea next beyond that.  It's odd mostly just dabbling in oolong these days (years) and then drinking something this exceptional.  It's fantastic to experience, of course, a little like rediscovering good tea again every time.






you can't tell from this but I think the long hair is starting to work better




Tuesday, December 22, 2020

Wuyi Origin prize winning Qi Lan (oolong)

 


I'll keep the intro part short here; this is another version of Wuyi Yancha from Wuyi Origin, sent by my friend Cindy for me to try (more so than for review, but both).  Their description:


Qi lan 奇兰

Location: Qing shi yan (青狮岩) zheng yan garden

Harvest date: 2020.4.28th

Roasting style: Two times Roasting, Medium Roasting style

The first time roast :  July 1st, the second time roast : August 14th 

Feature:

The Qilan variety of Wuyi Mountain was introduced from Pinghe County, Southern Fujian in the 1990s. Because Qilan grows well under the unique and excellent geographical conditions of Wuyi Mountain, the Qilan quality under the unique Wuyi rock tea production technology is even more superior. Beloved by the masses, it is widely planted in Wuyishan area.

Dry tea: the strips are neat and curly, the color is brown and green, and the color is oily and shiny; the color of the soup: the tea soup is orange and yellow, the entrance is mellow and sweet, and the teeth and cheeks are fragrant after the swallowing; the bottom of the leaf: yellow and bright, with a light green bottom and red border.

The flavor is sweet, with the typical mineral taste of Wuyi tea. A flowery orchid aroma and cinnamon flavor. Very pleasant and smooth aftertaste as well. It has a pleasant, very subtle menthol-like effect in the aftertaste. Qi lan is a quite  popular Pinzhong among others pinzhong in Wuyi. 


There is more cited that defines the term "Pinzhong" after the review section.  

I tend to not usually bring up value, unless there is an unusual point to be made, but this seems to be a good place to break form.  That lists for $32 for 100 grams (which I'm assuming is identical to what I reviewed, although there really could be different batches or mixes of batches being sold).

If it is identical that's a great value for this tea.  It seems odd saying that about a 32 cent a gram tea; that's a bit for tea, for some types and quality levels.  Let's check a seemingly comparable source, the Tea Drunk shop in NYC (not a fair comparison, direct sales from a vendor based in China and a physical shop in a high-rent area, but I'll address that part).

Their Qi Lan here lists for $20 for 1 ounce, or 28 grams, so 71 cents per gram, more than double.  There's a really good chance this shop tea version isn't nearly as good; the Wuyi Origin package literally says "prize winner."  There are different local Wuyishan tea region competitions and apparently a version of this tea won an award, which I take to mean first place, but it could mean just "placing," ranked but lower.  They run through an awful lot of submission versions, with it a point of pride among local producers to be recognized; if it really was "only a top 5" award that's meaningful.

That's really not a fair comparison, since that shop has rent and staff costs to cover, with physical-shop pricing running higher than for online-only shops, even for online sales from such outlets.  It's good to also support your local shops, if you value them and want them to stick around, even if you do pay a bit more for the teas.  Let's check a well-regarded US online vendor to flatten out that comparison point, Seven Cups:

Qi Lan, Rock Wulong 2018:  25 grams selling for $24.30


So selling for even more, $1 / gram.  This tea may or may not be comparable in quality to the Wuyi Origin version; only trying both tells that story.  Styles can vary slightly, and that's where personal preference starts to inform more than an "objective" quality level.  Since that is a well-regarded source it will be interesting to cross-check their interpretation of the type-typical style:


Qi Lan stands out among rock wulongs by virtue of its distinctive lingering orchid fragrance. Named “Lan” (orchid) for its floral character, it is smooth and complex rather than sharp. Qi Lan producers strive for a tea with a well-developed aroma that has sweet notes reminiscent of caramelized sugar. Its initial subtlety encourages you to breathe its fragrance in more deeply and experience the lasting rich character. The aroma and flavor build up to a rich complexity as you drink this tea through its many bright yellow-orange infusions. 

Qi Lan is always lightly roasted to preserve its beautiful aroma. In addition, the traditional charcoal roasting of the leaves helps create a deep, full flavor. This tea is famous for the developing sweetness that lingers after the tea is swallowed. Its soft and slippery flavor betrays no hint of bitterness or tannic sharpness...

...While some varieties of Qi Lan are given a slightly heavier roast, our Qi Lan is the lightest-roasted variety with the highest aroma.


That's a citation of a much longer passage about the history, typical growing area, and processing themes related to the tea type, with the rest also worth a read.  That last sentence I included to fill in that earlier comment about stylistic variations; there is a norm for processing approach and final style in these types of teas, with some range for interpretation within that.  What people mean by terms like light and heavy (related to roasting) tend to be a bit variable, and again trying the teas fills in that meaning best.

I don't doubt that the Seven Cups' version is exceptional tea, even though I've never tasted a single version of anything they produce, based on accepting hearsay input.  I would expect it to be stylistically varied, if only slightly, from this Wuyi Origin version, versus "giving up" much in quality, and being on a completely different level.  Presumably it couldn't be substantially better than a local award winning version, even if individual batch differences may add some variation.  On the value side I expect that Wuyi Origin is just underpriced, related to how it could go selling teas directly versus adding a resale and import step.

It goes without saying but all of my guesses should be taken with a grain of salt.  Trying the teas tells the story; the rest is speculation, guesses based on hearsay and common patterns.




Review:


First infusion:  amazing, of course.  I get accustomed to their teas being lightly roasted, and this is more on the medium side; the input comes across more.  Putting it on a scale doesn't work because the entire over-roasted range is more typical than it probably should be, and reference to it means nothing to me in terms of placement.  A bit of the char flavor in more-roasted oolong versions comes across, but just a trace, limited enough that it seems likely that it could fade fast.  Resting these tea versions changes things too; this might come across slightly differently in another six months.

The rest of the flavor range is interesting.  To me it's closest to a combination of floral tone, which is warm and subdued, and more pronounced well-roasted almond flavor.  The way that underlying mineral, underlying warm floral tone, touch of char, and heavy almond flavor combine is nice.  I think a bit more of an aromatic effect I think of as congnac-like will develop as this keeps going, once it's really started [interesting that this comment was from trying the tea, not a type-typical expectation; I added these citations, and first read them, only after doing the review].

Feel is already pronounced, and aftertaste, and this is only the first round.  The feel coats your tongue, heavy and smooth, along with a heavy mineral tone, and both trail into a related aftertaste expression.  It's so complex and full in feel that it seems to affect your whole mouth, lingering on as aftertaste + "afterfeel."  Different.



Second infusion:  I brewed this fast since the intensity is high, also related to using a relatively full gaiwan.  This tea version is intense enough that for once using less tea to help moderate that might be better.  The proportion of earlier aspects present shifts a bit, and intensity ramps up.  Even using a lighter proportion really fast infusions would be enough.  It comes across as one single, integrated flavor range, but what is there is actually very complex.  In addition to the mineral tone, slight char (receded already), touch of floral, and heavy almond other spice-like tone seems to join in, something like ginseng, but I suppose maybe not that.  

It picks up a touch of vegetal character, like a very aromatic hardwood.  That probably sounds different than I intend it, since cheap oolong or black tea versions tend to be woody, but a touch of cedar (not that, but I'll call it that) joining all the rest of this is a completely different effect.  Or it would be natural to interpret that as an extension of the notable root spice.  It's complex.  This part is going to sound strange too but that combination isn't complete different than licking the back of an envelop, that particular form of glue.  It's really pleasant though, so crazy to be saying this tastes like wood or glue.  Those are descriptions that inform what one component is, but only the experience of the whole would pass on a more complete impression of that intended meaning.  

This is one of the more complex and intense Wuyi Yancha versions I've ever tried.  Since I really love fruit in them it's not in the range that matches my standard strongest preference, but I suspect this will evolve to include more aromatic range and an overall balance that is a truly unique experience.  It's just getting started.




Third infusion:  the aspects include most of the same as the last round, but the balance is different, with a shift in the vegetal range.  It went from relatively close to ginseng to more like a tree leaf.  This part is a little odd, because it's like the scent of fresh leaves, not so much the "fallen leaf" range, maybe maple or oak, a temperate climate range leaf scent.  Floral tone is still filling that in, and an almond flavor that's now evenly balanced with the rest.  Mineral is just as intense but less warm, shifting a little towards a light metal range, or actual salt.  It all balances really well; nothing stands out as dominant.  Nothing in this complex range could be considered a flaw, although of course preference would dictate if someone really loved any part or the whole.

To be clear all this end-effect is familiar.  Unless I'm remembering wrong an exceptional Ban Tian Yao I reviewed a long time ago--five years ago--was pretty close to this, complex across a floral / mineral / nut / root spice range.  Few teas I've ever tried match this for intensity, consistent and integrated complexity, and aftertaste expression.  Feel is interesting, and notable, but that kind of thing comes up.  

This might be the kind of tea that someone new to the range might not like as much, without really knowing why.  It's not at all challenging but it's a lot to take in, across a range that's not as immediately appealing as strong, simpler fruit or floral tone, or a plain-cinnamon Rou Gui.  You have to be able to appreciate the complexity, and to some extent how it's shifting from round to round, but without valuing that transition at all you could still like it.



Fourth infusion:  somehow the warmth seemed to bump a little; odd.  This flavor range is so tightly integrated but that sort of broken down list approach to explaining it seems wrong; it comes across as all one thing.  That cognac-like aromatic aspect did increase, an effect you get from that type of brandy, or maybe in some kinds of liqueur, or present in the scent of perfume.  

Roast level seems perfect at this stage, drawing out very pleasant complexity, and tying it all together.  There is no trace or hint of a distinct char aspect.  Even the other parts, almond, ginseng, fresh tree leaf, etc., all seem so well integrated that it's just one very complex flavor now.  It will be interesting to see how Cindy describes this.


Fifth infusion:  it probably did shift slightly from last round but I really can't describe how.  Maybe that warmth makes the spice range that had been more like root seem closer to cinnamon now.  A flavor break-down goes against actually describing this experience, since it's so integrated.  That pronounced aromatic range is really nice, the way it links with and extends from the rest.  It would make it natural to describe this as coming across as more floral now, but to me the complexity just integrates together.  It's interesting how a dominant early almond tone transitioned to balance along with the rest, and how strong underlying mineral also did.  

This is definitely one of the more interesting and better Wuyi Yancha versions I've yet to try.  I wouldn't say that it's "over my head" but my normal tastes are a little more basic.  I can appreciate what I'm experiencing, but a much simpler and less refined version would be essentially just as pleasant, in a range that matches my personal preference.  Taken in a different way more basic Wuyi Yancha versions would stand in this one's shadow, and seem less desirable for not matching it across those extra dimensions.



Sixth infusion:  more of the same.  Mineral seems to be playing a slightly larger role now, and I'd expect subtle shifts like that to keep happening, for the balance to adjust a bit.  The result is still completely integrated, very pleasant.  

I've not really mentioned sweetness related to this tea, and that input is moderate.  It matches the other range, which isn't exactly savory, but more towards that side (nuts, warm floral, root spice, etc.).  The overall effect is very pleasant balance.  I suppose I might appreciate styles more that include more sweetness and fruit, towards a separate preference for Dian Hong black tea.  Of course I've been more on sheng for a few years, so I'm open to a broad range, to lots of mineral, sweetness or not so sweet, and a broad range of flavor and other character.  Related to that type and range, the overall intensity and complexity of this version works well.  Of course it has no sheng bitterness or more structured feel, or the different range of complex flavors well-aged versions express, but there is lots going on.


I'll leave off here; it's nice to try a few rounds without making notes, and it must get old reading sentence after sentence about minor transitions.  This was really exceptional tea.  The description may not have did justice to how much I liked it, covering more on the analytical side, breaking down what was going on with it.  It's easier to "gush" about how fantastic a tea is when it completely matches main personal preference, and this was as much a case of noticing how exceptional the character and effects were.

I'd expect tea at this quality level to more typically be priced at double or triple this cost, so it is a good chance for someone to try a version on the next level for style and quality at a great value.  I would guess that this is a great version of Wuyi Yancha for people who already love Wuyi Yancha, and not as suitable a starting point.  It wasn't challenging in any way; I don't mean that.  There was no astringency, or any negative aspect to "work around."  The very clear quality level, refined nature, aromatic character, feel and aftertaste, integrated and balanced flavor set, and pleasant transitions across infusions were all easy to appreciate.  But they do produce sweeter or fruitier versions, or more familiar "Da Hong Pao" range, all of which might seem more conventional, to some, if based on limited type exposure.


Post-script:  Ming cong versus Pinzhong Wuyi Yancha types


Wuyi Origin / Cindy lists the cultivar / product types in these two different groups on their site, and it may be unclear to some what those mean (as it was to me).  She includes a blog section in that site that covers some growing and processing descriptions, with the most recent post covering this distinction (with most of that short entry cited here):


Ming Cong:

Ming Cong means they are all with long histories, and most of them were named with some special kinds of stories...  The  most popular Ming Cong in Wuyishan now are :

Qidan(奇丹), Beidou(北斗), Tieluohan(铁罗汉), Shuijingui(水金龟 ), Baijiguan (白鸡冠), Bantianyao(半天腰), Rougui(肉桂) and Laocongshuixian (老枞水仙)

For this Ming cong, except their own features, they always with very strong tea energy, we always bake them to medium or high-level degree. Through the baking can force their essence to come out and this kind of baking style is quite good to be drunk in the second year or third year...


Pinzhong:

Most of the Pinzhong were imported from other tea growing places or through Hybridization in the 90s.   

Now the most popular Pinzhong in Wuyi like Qilan (奇兰), Meizhan (梅占), Foshou (佛手)), huangmeigui(黄玫瑰), huang guanyin (黄观音), huang dan (黄旦), jin mudan (金牡丹), jin yaoshi(金钥匙), jin qian(金钱),  queshe(雀舌), Bairuixaing(白瑞香)baxian(八仙)and so on, too many different Pinzhong.

Like Meizhan is from Anxi tieguanyin growing area, Baxian is from Taiwan Wulong cultivars. Huang guanyin is from Hybridization of huang dan and Tie guanyin. Different pinzhong, they are with different kinds of aroma, but one same common thing is that they all do not have very strong body comparing to the Ming Cong. So for the baking, we always use bake them light style or medium style to keep their special aroma.


Of course there is more to be said about all that.  Her summary of two distinct, uniform preparation styles is surely oversimplified to make an abbreviated, practical point.  People love to try to "poke holes" in any simple definitions and categorizations, and separating that broad a set of plant types into two distinct groups could easily lead to sweeping aside a grey area, or other potential distinctions.  All the same, her understanding is much better grounded, and more developed and reliable, than standard vendor input, never mind tea group discussion hearsay or other online content.  She grew up around these plants, as her daughters now do.


Another TChing post about to "go up" is about tea themes bringing people together.  Given the holiday season timing this seems a good time to mention that I really do appreciate having online friends like Cindy, and the others I mention in that post, and the many that I don't bring up.  Thanks for taking part by reading some of these ideas, and humoring me if I ask you questions by random contact message, or go a bit far with enthusiastic tea group discussion.

This would be a great place to include a picture of Cindy's family but since I don't have a recent version I'll have to settle for more of my own munchkins, the standard inclusion here.






Tuesday, December 20, 2016

Qi Lan from Cindy Chen




Hopefully I'm back to doing a plain, simple review, this time of a Qi Lan (a Wuyi Yancha roasted oolong).  It's the last of a set of samples sent by Cindy Chen, a tea farmer who needs no introduction (but I will add a picture of her).  It never works out that way though; there is always some tangent that needs chasing, or follow up tasting.  Right to it then.


Cindy!



The scent of the tea is rich and sweet, and implies a higher level of roast than I've been trying for awhile.  It may even be in the range of that Jip Eu Chinatown shop Wuyi Yancha I reviewed, for a Shi Li Xiang, a tea type that probably also goes by Qian Li Xiang.  The initial brew shows some of that roast, and some other intriguing aspects.  It doesn't seem similar to a Da Hong Pao or Rou Gui, but then I'd have to review the type to see what it's supposed to be like (and do at the end of this).

It's a bit sweet, lighter than it seems it would be, with a trace of nuts, and maybe a bit of liquor-like quality.  Subsequent infusions will help add depth to that first take.  Of course I'm preparing it Gongfu style, so there will be plenty of infusions to work with.

It does remind me of that other Chinatown shop tea, on the second infusion.  One main aspect is a nuttiness, like a well roasted almond, but the commonality isn't that part.  It's an aromatic tea, again a little hard to describe exactly what that means, but it does mean something.  It's a description Chinese vendors tend to use for a way teas come across, and rather fitting into words well after trying a few it's clear enough.  That aromatic aspect relates to a perfume or liquor like quality, give or take.  The actual taste range isn't on the pronounced or complex side, with the aroma part expressing a lot of the tea character instead.  I'll try to get the description in order and then move on to my subjective impression of the tea, how I like it.




On the next infusion I'm getting more of the roast effect, but it doesn't come across as overpowering, it's not "char," just significant enough that it plays a role in the tea.  It seems medium, not medium-high.  It integrates relatively well, and works, it's just a different way that tea can be.  There's still a good bit of nuttiness to the flavor profile, with some of that aroma coming across more or less floral, or really defying easy description.  A mineral context is a sub-theme, and underlying range of the tea, but it's completely different than for the other teas I've been drinking lately, autumn harvest Darjeeling and Jing Mai (Yunnan) black tea and Oriental Beauty version.  It's subdued, a light background tone, and in a lighter range, not flinty or towards limestone but in the middle towards that side from darker granite and rich sandstone.


The next infusion is a bit different but not really evolving much, just with those aspects shifting around in balance a little.  A bit of a wood tone may be entering, adding what comes across as a slight earthy range, with the other flavors still more pronounced.  That is reasonable complexity, and the general flavors character is clean, with no negative aspects.



The tea works, and it's clearly nice tea, the only reservation I have relates to this range of aspects not being my favorite.  I think the main concern is the aromatic range; I like my teas to taste like something more than to express that more subtle effect.  At any rate it's good tea, and I like it but I don't love it.



I liked her Jin Jun Mei better, and among those types I preferred the versions that emphasized flavors over the aromatic quality (she sent multiple types that emphasized both ranges, compared here).  I really loved her Rou Gui, and the wild Lapsang Souchong from this set of samples, both of which were exceptional teas and a really good fit for character types I prefer.  I think some of the same trend played out with the Lin farm Dan Cong versions I tasted, a preference for teas with complex tastes but a more limited appreciation for aromatic aspects versus flavor based aspects.


Add caption


Although this tea doesn't have a strong char effect--one reason for aging a tea, to moderate that aspect--it seems possible it could change character over the course of another year or two, that it could pick up more depth and round out to a different balance of aspects than it lands at now.  This is at the limit of what I've experienced, in trying teas and keeping versions on hand to try later, so I'm raising it more as a comment than as a prediction.  I'm only guessing that it might change.






Tea research section



I'm out of the habit these days, but I had used this blog for researching new tea types as I tried them, as a place to keep those notes and link.  Related to that, here's what Teapeadia says about this tea type:

Qi Lan (奇兰) is usually translated as "strange orchid" but "rare orchid" is also common. This oolong is less oxidized and lighter roasted than other Wuyi oolongs such as Da Hong Pao or Shui Jin Gui...  The teas liquor is golden-yellow with a aroma which resemble orchids and fruits. Qi Lan's taste is located somewhere between classsic Wuyi Yan Cha and Tie Guan Yin.


All that makes perfect sense.  It is light, as described, and also floral, but it also tastes like almond (not mentioned here).


Yunnan Sourcing (vendor) tends to have clear and simple write-ups, also worth checking out:


Qi Lan (奇兰) Oolong is originally a varietal of oolong grown in Anxi, but adapted to Wu Yi in the 1930's.  Qi Lan is lightly processed and has a natural almond taste and aroma.  The feeling is thick and sweet with a very natural character to it with almost no roasted taste at all.  If you are a fan of a lightly roasted Da Hong Pao or Shui Xian you will find this vibrant, sweet and thick tea to your liking.


There's the almond reference.  The roasted taste is subdued, but I get the impression that it did affect the character of the tea, that it wasn't really lightly processed in the sense of being lighter roasted, more medium.  It could come across more roasted than it is since the tea itself is a bit subtle.

I'm not sure what to make of my impression versus these inputs.  The tea seemed aromatic, and somewhat like these descriptions (floral, subtle, a bit sweet), and it also seemed that a relatively low oxidation level versus medium roast level might have also have defined the aspects balance.  The first description seems to pin down the tea character range better, with the reference to being between standard Wuyi Yancha and Tie Kuan Yin.

That mix of oxidation and roast aspects reminded me of a heavily roasted TKY I reviewed not so long ago.  It's not crazy to make a tea in such a way, contrasting a light tea style with a medium or even slightly heavier roast effect, it's just not a balance I'm completely familiar with, and not really a personal favorite.  Of course a dark-roasted TKY isn't the same thing, with a different character for a starting point and more normal for that to be taken to an even heavier roast level, so I'm talking about parallels in some aspects, not a close similarity.


well-roasted Tie Kuan Yin



I love the warm, earthy tones in better black teas, so I'm more into Wuyi Yancha range that bridges to that a bit.  Da Hong Pao and Shui Xian have more of a woody / earthiness, or even leather flavor range, although some versions can be quite aromatic too.  Rou Gui tends to express spice or fruit, again in a warm, approachable, flavor-intensive character, versus being light and aromatic.  Or at least all that is my take.

It's typical for a tea blogger to not say that a tea type isn't their favorite (as described in this post on unwritten rules of tea blogging), to sort of remain neutral, and only express an opinion when it's quite positive.  I don't write reviews of teas I don't like, since that's not really interesting, unless they're not good in an interesting way, like the rant posts other bloggers tend to write.  Cindy is my favorite tea maker and I consider her a friend so it's all the more odd.  I liked this tea, I just didn't love it.  In this case the tea seemed interesting, and I really do think those two aspects that didn't completely click with me--aromatic, and lighter, subtle tea with a medium level roast--might work really well for someone more on that page.

If I were buying her tea--and I have--I'd go with the Rou Gui and wild Lapsang Souchong instead, then maybe Shui Xian.  I might pick up some Mi Lan Xiang Dan Cong too (she has family in that region, and the last version of that tea was floral and sweet, and a bit light but tasty, flavor intensive), all of which follow a different pattern of aspects, or maybe two, really.