2011 Bulang and 2012 Mengsong Malaysia stored sheng pu'ers

 

I'm reviewing two older sheng pu'er versions, again from the Legend of Tea vendor in Malaysia (sent by them for review; many thanks!).  This should be interesting for balancing out a set of different aged versions from them and from Tea Mania, a Swiss vendor I've also been reviewing teas from.  

I'll cover their listing description, then the review, which I essentially always write before reading any description.

2011 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea  (Bu Lang origin, $77.70 for 200 grams, equivalent to $139 for a 357 gram cake)

The raw material selected by XiaoBaWang in 2009 is from BuLang Mountain, which is one of the six ancient tea mountains in China, and it is also one of the most famous Puer tea production areas. BuLang Mountain is located in South Asia, with a tropical monsoon climate, full of sunshine, abundant rainfall. These natural conditions contribute BuLang Mountain Tea as a legend in Puer tea.

Tea liquor tastes high sweetness, after 9 years of storage in the pure dry warehouse, it becomes thick and smooth, not astringent, not dry, and docile.

A little to unpack there:  that may well be tea that's two years older than the pressing date (which isn't so unusual), with the 9 years time-frame just relating to when the page listing was updated (in 2020, it would seem).  The "dry warehouse" part relates to natural storage, per discussion with the vendor; conditions weren't maintained at a consistently high humidity level.

2012 Xiao Ba Wang Raw Puerh Tea  ($72.96 for 200 grams, equivalent to $130 for standard 357 cake)

XiaoBaWang 2012 chose to use spring tea leaves from MengSong Mountain, MengHai County. MengSong is one of the oldest ancient tea plant in MengHai, the history of MengSong Mountain minority tea planting is as long as that of NanNuo Mountain minority tea planting.

The tea leaves are tightly knotted, bitterness melts in the mouth, leaving a lingering aroma. The palate is rich and thick, with a sweet aroma of honey fruit.

That seems clear enough.

Review:

2011 Bulang:  it's pretty subtle at this point, warm tones and not much more.  It will open up a bit and strengthen, it's just a matter of how much.  I actually used a rinse this time too.  I'll push it the next round and add more description.

2012 Meng Song:  also subtle, also warm in tone, but a bit different.  Both of these express a slight mustiness, like old book or stored boxes smell, which I don't see as necessarily too negative.  That kind of thing can transition away within a round or two, as harsher astringency sometimes does in younger sheng.

2011 Bulang #2:  perhaps brewed a bit too long, from the color, but that will move things along.  This is definitely well-aged sheng, towards the end of that process.  Breaking that down to a flavor list is never so easy.  People end up mentioning descriptions like camphor, medicinal herb, ju-jube (Chinese date), and old books, which are all reasonable and valid enough, but those can lend themselves to seeming a bit vague.  Medicinal herb could be a lot of things, and "old books" is sort of an underlying context or impression.  

This tastes a little like old books, or old furniture.  I suppose there's a sort of old tropical hardwood flavor going along with that.  Feel is interesting, with some fullness, and then also dryness.  I can't really place fruit or spice, and that list doesn't seem long enough yet, to describe what I'm experiencing.

2012 Meng Song:  there's a good bit more root spice to this, or something along that line.  It could be a bark spice.  Old books might also work.  It comes across as more intense; the other is still a bit subtle at this point.  Again feel has some structure and also some dryness.  Ju-jube might actually fit for this one; kind of funny it works out like that.

2011 Bulang #3:  it's funny how much intensity and complexity comes across in this, with it still hard to describe as tasting like much.  It has a lot of depth.  Warm mineral tones stand out, and that aged books sort of theme, more pronounced than it usually is, more of a main flavor component, versus a supporting aspect.  I've tried varying versions of aged teas that seem to just fade, and a warm depth remains, but not much else, and this isn't like that.  It doesn't work to say this is subtle, but in one sense that's true.  A faint woodiness is also present, like the deep washed-out scent of driftwood.  It's probably better than it sounds, related to how much I like it.

2012 Meng Song:  this is more intense, more conventional.  Old books flavor is also present in this, or maybe it's old furniture.  Again the rest is a bit like a spice-tone, maybe a root, possibly bark.  Interpretation as dried fruit could work, again with Chinese date working as well as any other.

Both are fairly clean at this point; that initial mustiness did drop out.  Mouthfeel is unusual for both, or maybe not that unusual related to how well-aged sheng go.  It's full in a different sense, even a little dry, with strong mineral tones seeming to match with that experience, with both carrying over.  It's interesting that mouthfeel can carry over, as is common with aftertaste.  These are definitely truly aged sheng versions, pretty far along for this being only 13 years old.

I used the broken parts of the sample for this Meng Song version; that probably affected the feel, bringing out even more dryness, which may soften over a couple of more rounds.

2011 Bulang #4:  it improves, but it's still subtle.  A warm sweetness picks up.  For people on this page this experience could be lovely, but for many others they just wouldn't get it.  I'm in the middle.  

It's complex enough that someone with the right background or imagination could list out a very long flavor and feel aspect list, and then for most it wouldn't come across as expressing much that's distinct at all.  Aged sheng can be like this.  

On the positive side this may well be a humid-stored sheng version that's now 16 years old, not 14, and for some trying a relatively fully aged version might be really novel.  It might mellow and deepen a little but it's pretty much there.

2012 Meng Song:  perhaps easier to relate to for stronger flavors emerging, and more distinct individual flavor range, rather than mostly depth and mineral, with aged books or furniture range.  It might taste a little greener at this stage (in the infusion count, related to transitions over this brewing cycle).  It's warm, and well-aged, with almost all the vegetal range switched over to warmer flavors (aged wood, spice, etc.), but the process isn't absolutely complete, it can still probably change more.  13 years is a long time in warm and humid storage conditions, but it's still not the same as 20 to 25.

Both of these express so much warm mineral depth.  It's one thing to say that, but hard to convey what that is like.

2011 Bulang #5:  it shifts a bit into spice range, maybe a subtle root spice, along the line of ginseng, or maybe some medicinal herb type I'm not familiar with.  It's funny how it lacks more up-front or forward flavors but the depth adds up to an experience of complexity, and even intensity.  It's also clean, and heavy on mineral base tones.  It's interesting.

2012 Meng Song:  this shifts, but it's within the same dried fruit / bark spice range.  It's really coming into its own at this stage, the best it has been.  Dryness fades, and fullness and richness pick up.  Trying them one after the other I do like this better, especially at this point, but the other has been improving as well, smoothing out and picking up more depth and complexity.

2011 Bulang #6:  a reference to something like a macadamia nut might help place what I've been trying to express, a nut type that is rich and complex, heavy with creamy flavor, but that doesn't taste like much, at least that's easy to pin down.  It tastes like a macadamia nut; that's it.  Some of that richness and fullness is present in this.  It might be closer to a Brazil nut, I think.  There's a warm mineral edge that's common across different kinds of tea, that's also hard to place.  Like driftwood?  Or subtle spice?  The aged books reference doesn't work as well since the flavor is so clean at this stage, but it might still cover a part of it.

2012 Meng Song:  that mix of flavors I've been describing doesn't seem like an ideal description, but it's probably as close as I'm going to get.  It shifts just a little each round, but the same set just comes across differently, shifting the balance of each input.  Warm mineral undertone is still a main part of the experience of both, and feel is unique for both.

Skipping reviewing late rounds isn't because there wouldn't be more to tell.  This covers most of the story, and it's too much for me to get through.

Conclusions:

It probably didn't help that I do those tastings on weekend mornings, and rush to get to errands.  Today it's a doctor's visit; yesterday it was something else.  For teas like these it's better to take your time, to drink them over an hour or more, letting the experience settle in.

They seemed good.  That would relate to preference, as for any tea type or version, and aged sheng is an unusual range.  It can be complex but subtle.  Maybe only the older Bulang version really seemed subtle, and even for that version that description isn't the best fit.

This reminds me of trying an aged sheng version (from Thailand) with a local contact, who was well-known in tea discussion circles back then, on Tea Chat.  He commented that it seemed about right, in the right range, and was pleasant, but it didn't work as well to describe what that range was, or why it was positive.  That might've been 8 or 9 years ago, and that tea was probably around this age then, or maybe slightly newer.  I'm not really capturing why these work out well here either.  Maybe if I'd added camphor as a description that would clarify everything.

Aged Xiaguan and other factory teas are completely different.  They wouldn't typically be this approachable at "only" 13 and 14 years old (or 16; the other may have been pressed from material that wasn't new), even stored in a humid and warm place.  Intensity would be dialed way up, probably with some aspects seeming like rough edges.

So just how good are these, and do they seem to represent a good version of "boutique" style-range teas?  I suppose that second distinction might be a bit broad to evaluate.  Styles and forms would vary too much.  To me they seem quite pleasant, like good examples of these kinds of styles, and it reduces down more to whether or not someone likes this type range of tea, transitioned through this form of storage input.  Maybe I do like the trade-off of rough edges and heavier barnyard flavors for older Xiaguan better, but that wouldn't work as well this young, no matter the storage conditions.  For this age these styles seem pretty suitable; they work well fermentation transitioned this much.

To make all that more specific I suppose it depends on whether someone likes the complex, layered, but somewhat subtle character of the Bulang, or the spice-range intensive distinctive flavor of the Mengsong version.  Again to me they're fine, they're good.  I suppose I liked where that younger Bulang was better (from 2021), how somewhat transitioned but still young floral range stood out.

Of course I can't extend all of this to any guesses about what these were like when brand new, or 4 years into aging.  It would be nice if I could, or if anyone else could.  With enough exposure some transition patterns would have to stand out, but it may not work well to guess what flavors had dropped out.

It's even difficult to specify how these relate to my own preference.  They're good, and I would like drinking each if I owned them, but nothing really stands out as something I couldn't do without.  It's nice how the Bulang expresses so much complexity and depth, even if forward flavor notes are limited.  The extra flavor intensity of the Mengsong version is nice, but that kind of root spice range isn't really a personal favorite.

Related to value it's an unusual opportunity to buy cakes of this quality and aged character for this general pricing range ($130-some, or both were really $70-some for 200 gram versions).  That's fairly standard range pricing for young sheng, at this point.  These are obviously a boutique style tea material and style.  That's not a great thing, if a tea ends up fading away, or aging results aren't positive, but these are good quality.  Maybe earlier on a quality marker could've identified the Tea Mania versions I just reviewed as slightly better, a little more complexity or depth, but at this stage, since they lack much for flaws, it's more about match to preference, instead of quality level being a limitation.  

I was hoping that more of a connection with the Tea Mania 2017 and 2018 versions would turn up (from Bulang and Hekai), but those are at the opposite side of the aging range, and I can't guess about what will lead to what to that extent.

visiting One Bangkok, a new mall

it's a good place to catch a movie.  if you've been considering seeing Fantastic Four you should go; it was great.

Tea Mania 2017 Bulang and 2018 Hekai gushu sheng pu'er

 

2017 Bulang left, in all photos

I'm reviewing the oldest of the Tea Mania sheng pu'er samples (sent by Peter, the owner, for review; many thanks!).  At these ages these won't be truly aged sheng versions, so this will be about where they are in that process, and how intermediate stage sheng work out, what being part-way through a fermentation cycle is like.  It would vary by the tea version, in relation to the starting point, so this should be interesting.

I'll start with the vendor's description of these:

Bulang Gushu 2017, (357 gram cake for $188 USD)

Experience the excellence of our Bulang Gushu, a remarkable tea born from the collaboration of Tea Masters Panda and Yang Ming. Crafted exclusively for us, they have meticulously captured our deep appreciation for Bulang teas. Stored for seven years in Xishuangbanna, this tea has matured beautifully, becoming wonderfully ripe and developing a subtle hint of camphor aroma. It evokes memories of the legendary 2015 Bulang Gushu—a favorite that has long since sold out—offering a similarly captivating allure.

Building upon the legacy of both the 2015 Bulang and the distinguished 5-Village Blend, this Bulang Gushu holds special significance—it originates from the tea gardens of Yang Ming’s former schoolmate. 

 

Hekai Gushu 2018,  (200 gram cake for $88, equivalent to $157 for a 357 gram cake)

These leaves, from the venerable 300-year-old Gushu trees of Hekai Shan, were skillfully processed into 200g Bingcha cakes at Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory. The tea distinguishes itself with a signature Hekai aroma, enriched by the deep, clear essence of the Gushu leaves and a subtle camphor nuance. Ideal for long-term aging, this tea’s flavor is designed to evolve and refine over time, embodying the essence of Hekai Gushu.

Funny camphor is almost the only flavor referenced in these; I wrote notes for the next review already and joked that maybe it would make more sense if I described them as tasting like camphor.  Typically that's a reference to a sub-tone that's not all that close to the camphor that stands out in balms or Thai scent sticks.  Or maybe people really are tasting that, but I tend not to.

Review:

Bulang #1:  warmer aged tones stand out initially; I suppose that's a good sign.  Per usual this will need another round or two to get going.  A flavor range along the lines of tobacco stands out, or that could be incense spice, or old furniture, antique tropical wood [or per the intro section theme, maybe camphor]. Brighter floral tones have probably evolved away.  Some bitterness remains, but this is approachable.

Hekai:  much brighter and sweeter; interesting.  A jammy sort of flavor stands out this early on.  It's towards a blueberry or black cherry jam.  There is some warmth to the character range, but not like in the other version.  A savory note rounds out that sweetness and cooked fruit range.  This should be interesting.

Bulang #2:  that first description still works: there's an interesting mix of complex, warm flavor tones.  It picks up a little depth; maybe a touch of marshmallow joins the rest.  Of course I wouldn't expect most people to make that association, especially within that context of warm tobacco, tropical wood, and incense spice tone range.  Feel has a bit of dryness, and plenty of structure.  That's not overly pleasant in this, and not negative, but it may relate to it having complexity that could support additional transitions, to aging potential.

Hekai:  root spice tones are dominant now, with a bit of fruit remaining.  By that I mean along the line of ginseng, so an alternate interpretation of herbal medicinal flavor would be saying the same thing.  Maybe it relates a little to sassafras too, tasting a little like root beer, just not much.  The lighter tone is nice, the brightness.  It matches well with the sweetness, and that flavor complexity.  Brewing both of these fast should work now; they're intense enough for that to work well.

Bulang #3:  to an extent intensity dropped back for trying out an infusion of less than 10 seconds, but in another sense this is still quite complex.  Feel stays full, and one part remains behind in aftertaste expression.  The warmer tones are a little less intense but it's still complex in that same way, still covering that same range.  There isn't that much floral range to speak of; that seems to have largely evolved away.  Bitterness is present but very moderate.  I suppose this is the kind of tea that match to preference would determine placement for, that some people would love this, and others not like it.  

It's not exactly at an in-between age that doesn't make sense, but it probably would have seemed more positive a few years ago, and will balance in a different positive way in a few more.  So in a sense that's it, but it still balances reasonably well now.

Hekai:  this definitely seems to make more sense at this current age.  The warm tones, good sweetness, and root spice all work together well.  It seems like another half dozen years of transitioning in the same direction might be quite positive, but it works well now too.  Feel is a bit richer and fuller, while the other includes a dryness that takes over what you notice.

It's interesting considering fermentation level; are these less transitioned than the 2021 versions I've been trying that were stored in Malaysia, and if so, how are they different?  Yes, to the first part. 7 and 8 years of transition doesn't add up to the same degree 4 or 5 did for those other teas (from Legend of Tea).  Change has been slower, more gradual.  I suppose heavier flavor range doesn't enter in as fast, instead of the level being a linear distance or amount sort of thing.

Bulang #4:  it's changing, but only related to the proportion of what I've already mentioned.  I suppose that it's softening, in a sense, with the flavors becoming warmer and richer.  Feel is also softening; that dryness is dropping out.  I suppose a green tone may also be picking up a little.  

This is a sort of in-between age theme, just not in a form I'm completely familiar with.  Warmer transitioned tones picked up quite a bit, with what I assume was earlier floral range shifting to now be expressed as green wood, earlier on more in the range of warmer aged tropical wood.

Hekai:  that spice note is catchy.  Maybe within a year or two this might make less sense, being more in-between, divided between where it is now and where it's headed.  For as gradually as these seem to be transitioning it might be a long wait to more fully aged character, possibly relating to another decade, depending on where it is stored next.  It would be a real shame if it just faded.  I'd guess that it won't, that it's intense enough now, even for dividing character across a significant range, that it will retain decent intensity for that longer term. 

Kalani helped take this picture; I usually leave the toast out of it

Bulang #5:  depth is good; a charcoal sort of mineral range picks up.  It stands out more than the green wood range that has evolved.  Tobacco still works as a main flavor interpretation.  

Hekai:  that interesting spice tone stands out, but some green wood range is fairly pronounced now too.  I think these aren't at the best stage for drinking just now, probably better younger, or much more aged.  They're pleasant, and clearly good tea, intense, complex, and balanced, but this fermentation level isn't a natural optimum.  I'm not sure what I expected, looking back.  Whatever storage they experienced--in comparison with the other two I've tried, and in general--doesn't push the pace of transition, so they would be right in between newish and aged.

Infusion #6, both:  more of the same, just slight differences in aspect balance.  To me both are at an age where it could be interesting trying them once a year to see what changes, but they're just not there for transition to a place that makes the most sense.  

Then the problem is that if you buy a small cake, 150 to 200 grams, if you try it even once a year for a decade it's mostly gone by the time it gets to where it's going.  I've bought two cakes of the same tea for this purpose before, to keep trying one, and to have one for later when it really does make more sense.  But are these a great prospect for that?

I'm not sure.  I can't really judge in relation to an in-between-age snapshot related to later direction and aging potential.  I haven't tried enough versions over a long enough time-frame to tell.  Even if I had been through that experience a few dozen times it may not be enough.  Different factors could always be entering into play, related to different storage conditions, different inputs that tie to aging potential (like origin, tea plant age as one factor, or processing style).  It would be easy to experience the same types of patterns over and over, and to skip entire ranges of inputs and outcomes.

Still, I should be able to guess, right?  Something must trigger some pattern recognition.  Not really though.  I've experienced more of factory tea themes, related to relatively fully aged versions.  Related to gambling on lower quality, more inexpensive cakes--which is easier, in terms of budget allocation--I'm more familiar with what tends to go wrong.  These aren't just fading; they avoid that limitation.  They are picking up a woody character, but that can be expressed in a different form that never does fade, a warmer, cured hardwood sort of tone.  As I take it this vegetal range these express will change over, I'm just not sure to what.  

So potential is good?  Maybe, I just can't really conclude that either.  It's promising that they are clean, complex, intense enough, and well-balanced, even though they are at two different places in intermediate aging transition stages.  The quality seems quite good, intensity is more of a concern, if they'll fade over the next decade, and then what aspects will be like once they change over.

Myra visiting early in the session

Tea Mania 2021 Jing Mai and 2022 Yiwu sheng pu'er

 

I'm reviewing two more sheng pu'er from Tea Mania, one of my all-time favorite sources, and one of the best value places to buy sheng pu'er on the internet.  These were sent by the owner, Peter, for review (many thanks for that!).  

I'll get around to saying a bit about value, but these are "gushu," old plant material versions, which are ordinarily out of my normal budget.  If I remember right his pricing doesn't typically reach up to $1 a gram, so it's not as high as has long since been conventional for many sources.  But you pay more for this range of teas expressing a bit more depth, and more mineral undertone, and potentially causing a slightly different body feel experience.

This ties in well to trying a number of sheng pu'er from a Malaysian source, from Legend of Tea.  I've been having trouble placing those within the higher end of the quality scale, and comparison with these could help.  I still may not be familiar with the absolute best of the best quality sheng pu'er sold anywhere for any price, but teas from this source are always really good, pretty far up the practical part of that scale.

I typically cite vendor listings, to let them add a description, and to cite pricing, but I don't see the 2021 Jing Mai version listed.  I'll add another different year citation here, but of course even if the tea had been identical different aging would make it different:

Jing Mai Gushu, 2017 (not 2021), listing for $112 USD (90 CHF) for 250 grams

 

That pricing is equivalent to $160 for a 357 gram cake, or 45 cents per gram, on the fair side for gushu material, if it matches expectations for that type range (which is never just one thing)..

Together with our friend, Tea Master Panda, we went to Jing Mai to find the ideal Gushu tea leaves. Thoes leaves have been processed in Yang Mings tiny tea factory to traditional 250g Bingcha.

For this Bingcha we used Pu-erh tea leaves of up to several hundred years old tea trees (Gushu) from Da Ping Zhang in Jing Mai and stone pressed. The tea garden with the old tea trees is located at about 1600m. The the top of the mauntain forms a plateau instead of a peak. Therefore, all tea leaves are grown on a similar altitude.

Harvest: Spring 2017

Pressed: 2017

Taste: Mild and fruity with a sweet aftertaste

Terroir: Jing Mai, Puer prefecture, Yunnan province, China.

Yiwu Gushu 2022  ($106 USD for a 200 gram cake)

This pricing equates to $190 for a 357 cake, or 53 cents a gram.

 

These exceptional leaves have been expertly processed in Yang Ming’s boutique tea factory into traditional bingcha Pu-erh tea cakes.

Yiwu Gushu 2022 is crafted from tea leaves harvested from ancient tea trees, some over 300 years old (Gushu), located in the renowned Yiwu region. The tea bears a striking resemblance to our immensely popular Lucky Bee, sharing the distinctive Yiwu aroma. Additionally, it offers the well-known depth and clarity characteristic of Gushu leaves, along with a subtle hint of camphor...

Yang Ming is a local tea farmer from Yiwu, descended from a family with a long-standing tradition in Pu-erh production. His tea fields are the source of our beloved Lucky Bee teas...

Harvest: Spring 2022

Pressed: 2022

Aroma: Mild and sweet with a typically Gushu aftertaste

Terroir: Yiwu Shan, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan province of China

For lower cost versions that are still really pleasant that Lucky Bee line mentioned represents unusual value.  But this is about reviewing the gushu versions.

they press tea coins for use as samples, with that form involving some trade-offs

Review:

2021 Jing Mai gushu:  that's really fruity for Jing Mai.  It's so complex that even for an initial long soak to get the tea coin opened up I'd need to use a few descriptors to unpack what fruit is being expressed.  Maybe along the line of red raspberry, mostly, or possibly even dried red raspberry.  Bitterness isn't even started yet, but then this is brewed light, for only the outer part of the coin being wetted so far.

2022 Yiwu gushu:  sweetness and floral range stand out in this right away.  There's already a different kind of depth in this, not just the mineral undertone, which is going to stand out in both to some extent, but along the line of spice, or maybe aromatic tropical wood.  Even the next round isn't going to cover where these actually are, related to them still opening up, so I'll say a little about second round and do a flavor list breakdown on the third.

Jing Mai #2:  fruity, complex, well-balanced; this will be nice.

Yiwu:  interesting that this expresses more depth; I tend to think of Yiwu as being mostly floral, sweet, round and full, and approachable.

It's an option to try to tear these coins apart after a second brewing round, but they're too solid still for that to make sense to me.  Maybe I'll tease them apart a bit more after another longer soak.  Of course this is going to cause some of the tea to be on the 4th infusion when some is just starting out, but that doesn't ruin the experience, it just causes a different type of complexity, trying it at different infusion stages mixed together.  Not optimum, according to many, but it's fine, it works.  The dragonball form seems even worse, to me; getting that fully infused takes awhile.

Jing Mai #3:  pine does finally enter in, not so much the subdued pine forest effect I kept talking about in reviewing a recent Jing Mai version, but actual fresh needle flavor.  Then this is also still quite fruity.  The balance is really nice.  It's odd how limited bitterness expression and the distinctive astringency is; this is very approachable.  Flavors are bright and fresh; 4 years of aging hasn't led to a warmer tone, or offset bright notes.  Maybe these were stored somewhere in Yunnan?

Yiwu:  there is plenty of floral range to this, and an interesting spice tone.  Some of the sweetness could be interpreted as relating to citrus, but only a touch of it, maybe to dried tangerine peel.  These taste good.  Balance is great, freshness is nice, sweetness is high, and complexity is good.  I think a mineral base is playing more role in tying it all together than it's easy to notice; it doesn't stand out.  They're both really clean and intense.  

This is probably only the start of them tasting like they will across the middle rounds, not even there yet.  Maybe some of the initial brightness and freshness, the early round effect, is nice for being mixed in across rounds, from the hard middle getting wet later.  If they were challenging that would be the opposite, that the tea loosening up would be taking awhile, but they're not.  I'll keep going with long soaks to get the initial infusion process going, to get the middle soaked.

Jing Mai #4:  transitions might be harder to identify since new tea at the center of the coin keeps getting wetted for the first time each round.  At least this is bright, sweet, fresh, fruity, and complex, very pleasant.  Mouthfeel changes; it picks up some fullness.  Aftertaste intensity might be ramping up too.  That pine note isn't too piney; it mixes fresh needle effect with a bit of pine cone flavor, with fruit standing out more.

Yiwu:  it's hard to describe how rich and complex the floral range is.  It's nice.  I wouldn't necessarily keep aging this; it's in a great place right now.  It would be interesting seeing how floral tones become even warmer and richer over 2 or 3 more years, but then you'd be trading out some freshness and brightness, and once it switches towards fully fermented aspect range to me you would have probably lost what represents this tea's most pleasant potential.

There's very limited bitterness, and some fullness of feel, some structure, but it's the opposite of challenging.  A longer soak might finally get to the next place in the transition cycle for both.

Jing Mai #5:  the pine note switches over from also tasting like pine cone to expressing mostly spice.  That's stronger than the fruit now, kind of balancing, but more within that spice and vegetal range.  Vegetal makes it sound like a claim this tastes like green bean or grass; it's not that.  Pine cone or aged tropical hardwood are vegetal, just not in an ordinary sense.  

Yiwu:  savory edge picks up in this, tied to the list of flavors I keep describing.  This doesn't seem like the floral-intensive, less balanced Yiwu I've mostly tried in the past.  The warm towards tropical hardwood part people would probably interpret differently, as spice instead, or some form of dried fruit, maybe on to more exotic descriptions outside of food range, tasting like a particular type of clean canvas, or like a wicker chair.

Jing Mai #6:  I'm usually saying that I've got to go do something right about now, and today it's a doctor's appointment.  Eye is feeding the kittens for me or I'd be on break for that right now; I'm more or less mother to two month old kittens just now.  I finally tore these two coins in two, the first attempt at making them fully open the manual way.

That's so good!  I've been drinking this tea for 5 rounds, so it shouldn't come as a surprise, but the final push of intensity from it finally fully brewing all of the tea is really something.  Feel depth changed, and something along the line of an aromatic wood note entered in, like cedar or redwood, or maybe even sandalwood.  Sweetness is pronounced too, and there is some fruit balancing that, and a touch of pine.  The complexity is great.  I could relate to someone saying that Jing Mai teas aren't necessarily for them in a recent review citation, but this is something different, not just pine with a touch of floral tone.

Yiwu:  this includes a comparable warm spice-like or aromatic wood tone range, and richer, deeper floral range, perhaps with just a hint of citrus, so it's comparable, but completely different.  They harmonize with each other, filling similar roles in different ways, just a bit off-key from each other, but in a way that balances.

A savory experience is unique in this.  It's almost a touch of sun-dried tomato entering in, along with all the rest.  It's not at all what I expected, more of a sweet and complex floral range experience.  

Trading out transition speed and clarity for these coins taking awhile to get wet kind of worked out, since these will keep changing over a few more rounds, and continue on as interesting and well-balanced way past 10 rounds.  Eventually a more brewed-out bitterness will enter in, but it will help that these were so approachable through the first long stage.

I'm going to blasted by these teas; powering through 14 rounds is a lot.  It could help that the infusions weren't overly intense, as I'm prone to cause when using 9 grams of already loose material.

Jing Mai #7:  again, as for all of these rounds, that fruit note is amazing.  It's so complex that it must relate best to a mix of different fruits.  Dried raspberry may be a main theme, but there's more to it.  Gradually increasing light bitterness and a fuller, dryer feel are pleasant.

Yiwu:  this experience integrates so well that breaking it down to 3 or 4 main parts mis-represents how you actually experience it.  It's good.  It's going to be hard to place how much better these are than the Legend of Tea versions, but they are a little better, even beyond lots of difference just relating to preference or character differences.  Both could be equivalent amazing value.

Conclusions:

I've concluded so much already!  The teas were just great.  I had made it sound like they were going to brew 15 great rounds based on starting so slowly but at 10 or 12 the effects of pushing the outer material to brew faster started to show, and some characteristic late-round bitterness and green wood effect entered in, mixing with flavors I described in the first 6 or 8 rounds in the notes.  They still brewed a full cycle, over 10 rounds, but there was no free lunch related to the interior taking awhile to get soaked, so they didn't make it to 15.

Is there any one or more aspect or character ranges that sets them apart as gushu?  One part of the vendor description mentioned depth and clarity (as related), and another referenced aftertaste expression being different, or more intensive.  All of that was impressive.

I think clarity is worth considering further.  I might reference an overlapping aspect I refer to as refinement, when a tea isn't just complex, intense, pleasant, and so on, but expresses something else.  I see it as the opposite side of not expressing flaws, as going further in the other direction.

Is that worth shifting to paying 50 cents a gram for a tea instead of 30-some, beyond flavor aspects just being positive?  I suppose it depends on tea budget.  It should definitely be an easier judgment call to make at 50 cents a gram instead of $1.  But then character and quality level become quite complicated, and it doesn't work to say that lots of range of versions are equivalent, all based on one input.  These teas are better than some of what I've tried represented as gushu from elsewhere, but I can't compare them to the entire range of the best of what is on the market (of course).

I think you need to drill down to more local areas to even discuss what is most type-typical; comparison at the broad region level muddies the discussion.  Then distinct styles could enter in.

It's harder to say if these are clearly better teas than the last two I tried, because aging issues also factor in, and complicate things (and comparing Mang Jing and Jing Mai may not be apples to apples, back to the last point).  This Jing Mai version is really something; I suppose it is probably just better, and you can set aging issues aside.  That Bulang version from 2021, equivalent in age to these, was really in a favorable place.  It was far more fermented; these retained a lot of the earlier character, which in this case was also favorable, since they were fresh, sweet, complex, approachable, and very well balanced.  Since the per-gram pricing was around half of these for that maybe it's a partial victory for that tea, related to value.  

But these teas were so exceptional, for what they are, that to me it doesn't reduce to being that simple.  You really probably can't find experience like this for considerably less.  I'm not completely sold on the gushu theme as something I would need to regularly experience, that extra depth and clarity, but I also can't really discount it as irrelevant.  

Tea Mania also sells "arbor" teas; they carry the other intermediate range that people bring up.  It costs less.  The extra rough edges or slight limit in some intensity range isn't considerable, not a night and day difference, but it is different.  Their Lucky Bee Yiwu line I recommend that people can buy a cake of without tasting a sample; it's that pleasant and consistent, and that good a value, but of course it's not the same as these.

Would these two teas necessarily age better for being gushu (a claim that also comes up, just less so at the current time than a decade ago, back when this was all sorting out more)?  Probably not.  I see that as relating to certain style, to high levels of distinct types of intensity, in general terms to teas expressing more astringency and bitterness when young (new).  

I think that these would go through very favorable intermediate transition stages, when stored in a cooler and dryer place than Malaysia, as we are seeing 3 and 4 years after production now.  But at a guess I don't think it would make sense, to me, to keep these around to re-try them as 15 to 20 year old tea versions.  They're great now, and will continue to express great moderately aged character for a few more years, before they reach that in-between stage.  Stored in a cool and dry enough place they won't be in that in-between range at a decade old yet, when character can make less sense, they'll be preserved, but there may be a trade-off in slowing and stretching out that process.  But that part is idle speculation, not even a guess.

Tea Mania sells 2012 and 2014 Jing Mai gushu versions; someone could check on that aging transition guess, by buying them.  That 2012 version sells as a 357 gram cake for $187; it's not bad for good material tea of that age.  That could work as a tasting set theme.  I looked up what they offer for those and there's only one, here, including varying origins and ages of sheng pu'er (listing for $37 for 56 grams of seven different teas; not bad).

a recent make-up birthday party, really an excuse to eat ice cream cake