In this I'm reviewing a 2023 Bulang sheng pu'er from Oriental Leaf. This is a fairly unusual form of review, related to tasting this tea twice to get to a workable final set of notes. I used my normal high proportion for brewing the tea the first time, around 8 grams for a 100 ml gaiwan, and it was too much, and it was hard to dial down intensity, even with use of flash infusions.
It's odd being a sheng drinker and having intensity be too strong. I could've just edited that out, but it works to describe problems with a tasting process, and how things go when you get them wrong.
This tea was provided by them for review; many thanks for that.
I'll cite their product description and get on with it:
2023 Bulang Buds First Flush Raw Puerh Cake ($90 for a 357 gram cake)
Spring Buds from Bulang Mountain | Dry-Stored
Sourced from the first picking of 2023 on Bulang Mountain and pressed into only 95 cakes, this silver-tipped raw Puerh delivers the rare combination of Bulang's bold character and early spring's natural sweetness — clean, bright, and built to age.
Bulang Mountain's first flush of 2023, pressed into 95 stone-mold cakes — this is what raw Puerh looks like when the material, the terroir, and the storage are all handled without compromise.
Finding the right Bulang material takes time. Bulang Mountain (布朗山, Bù Lǎng Shān) in Menghai County, Xishuangbanna, is one of Yunnan's most storied raw Puerh origins. It has a reputation for producing tea with a powerful, almost aggressive character — thick bitterness (苦 (Kǔ)) that hits immediately, a bold astringency (涩 (Sè)) that grips the sides of the tongue, and a 回甘 (Huí Gān, lingering sweetness) that comes back stronger than almost any other mountain. That is the Bulang identity: force, then reward.
But this material is different. We spent a long time looking before we found it...
It keeps going from there; it's interesting checking their flavor notes:
Primary: Fresh floral (orchid, white blossom), light grass, raw green walnut
Secondary: Sweet cream, fresh-squeezed green grape, a whisper of pine resin
Underlying structure: Light mineral, faint peppery warmth, clean vegetal bitterness that resolves quickly
As it ages: Expect the floral notes to evolve toward dried apricot, wildflower honey, and eventually light sandalwood and dry cedar — the classic dry-storage aging arc for high-grade Sheng Puerh...
I'll add more about how my impression matches this in the notes and at the end, but the "powerful" part expressed earlier on pretty much captures it.
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first tasting, with too much tea in the gaiwan |
Review, first tasting attempt:
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the color shouldn't look anything like this; it's brewed way too strong |
First infusion: I screwed this up, leaving it sit for too long looking at something online. The review will have to start with a too-strong infusion. The earliest transition isn't usually much of a story anyway, but it's still unfortunate.
That's so, so strong. There won't be much to say about it, beyond trying to see if this can say something about the much lighter character to come. Intensity seems fine for this tea; brewed too long it's overly powerful.
Maxing out proportion, my typical approach, probably isn't suitable for this tea. I might write another set of notes later on using very little, more like 4 grams instead of 8.
Second infusion: that's more like it, but still more intense and more bitter than I'm currently acclimated to. All of that South East Asian sheng has been distinctive, flavorful, and approachable, while this is more about bitterness and intensity.
Flavors are warmer in tone that I would expect for a 2023 sheng version. But then if teas are stored in relatively more humid places that's pretty normal. I recently drank some of the Thai sheng from Aphiwat, that local Chiang Mai area individual producer, and it was pretty far along for transition for being about the same age (although I forget the year version; it might've even been 2024, instead of 2023).
I suppose floral range does emerge beyond the bitterness. There's definitely a lot of mineral depth to this, and it's clean. This tea could stand up to 20 years stored here in Bangkok, for sure. But how is it now, as a more bitter and intense younger tea experience? I'll check again next round.
Third infusion: color indicates the intensity just isn't going drop off, even brewed fast, a flash infusion. The flavor is strong. It's more of a conditioning exercise, experienced like this. It's definitely lifting the haze of feeling groggy from overdoing it at work and outside of work; after another cup or two I'll probably feel normal. But the review will have to wait, until I try it again at a lower proportion, which I won't do today, for having drank so much tea already.
Second review, a lot lower proportion:
First infusion: I've again let this go for longer than I usually would, for over half a minute, again looking at something online. I'll get this straightened out. I added a flash infusion to it to get it back to drinkable range, and the next round will be more normal.
Flavor is good. It's a little strong, but it balances ok, and it's still in a positive range. Mineral base stands out quite a bit, and considerable bitterness. I suppose floral tone fills in the rest. As with trying it yesterday it's more age transitioned than one might expect for being 3 years old. A tea can be darker and warmer in tone if it's a little oxidized instead, and I'd be one of the best qualified tea drinkers to make that distinction, since I drink plenty of unconventionally prepared sheng from South East Asia. It's not oxidized; somehow this has changed a good bit in 3 years, even being "dry stored."
The mineral tone is so strong that it has its own character. It leans a little towards coming across as smoky, but that's not it. I suppose it's like when you drink artesian well tea, that includes a lot of mineral content, but stronger. That actually links to one of my favorite memories from childhood, drinking from a naturally flowing well at one grandparents' house. That water was sweet, rich, complex, and delicious. This is a little like that.
Second infusion: a little on the light side; that's interesting to experience, after trying it in a really strong range at first. It had faded to a pleasant and drinkable range after a 4 or 5 infusions yesterday, but I had left off taking notes by then.
Sheng can tend to "loosen up" over the first 2 or 3 infusions, and this is in that process. Sweetness, astringency, are bitterness are all in a decent range, but it will evolve to balance better soon. I'll save a flavor list breakdown for next round.
Third infusion: bitterness still stands out as a main flavor aspect, along with mineral. It's possible to see mineral and bitterness as a taste, distinct from aromatic component conveyed flavors, which people might call aroma or flavor (a general term); people use the terms in different ways. But in our experience the final experience form from the two inputs tends to come across as unified.
There's still a mineral flavor input that leans towards smoke. It's hard to separate out a vaguely floral range in the rest. It has good flavor complexity, but it all runs together. Blended material is often like that, a mix from different inputs, or I suppose a more narrow origin version, picked from the same garden, for example, could naturally be like that.
The main positive or negative aspect range of this is intensity, even brewed fast, at a low proportion. Bitterness and mineral really stand out, with some matching sweetness, enough to make it work. For people who really value that intensity this would probably be good, and for others who can't relate not so good, until this ages more. I've spent a long time acclimating to different sheng range, and I'm fine with it, but I do love fruity and milder sheng range best, to the extent that I'm open to versions that are so oxidized that they start to move outside of the type category.
Fourth infusion: this is changing, with the astringency / feel structure and bitterness dropping off, so that other flavor range can stand forward more. It's just starting though; it will probably be a more complete change next round.
It's interesting trying sheng again that seems to have pretty open aging potential.
Fifth infusion: apparent sweetness level might bump just a little, but I think that's probably from other range fading, letting what had been there emerge better. I'm still not succeeding with a flavor list, beyond saying mineral stands out a lot, and the rest seems mostly floral, but not intensely so. I'll let this brew a little longer, at 15 seconds or so this round, to see what that changes.
Sixth infusion: intensity picks up, but it's not as if a list of other flavor now stands out. Feel gets richer, and aftertaste experience increases. The defining character range of this tea is intensity. If someone feels like they can't get a sheng that hits hard enough, even for trying some pretty intense range, this one would cover that. Someone on that page would probably be good with mineral range standing out quite a bit, and floral range being a main component. It's not really a sweet tea though.
If you drink it quite strong the bitterness evolves to sweetness after you swallow it, the hui gan effect, but the sweetness level is only enough to give it decent balance while drinking it.
Seventh infusion: another strength of this tea is durability; it's really only coming into its own for balanced character now, and it's surely far from fading, judging from an infusion cycle yesterday.
The flavor range reminds me of a funny critique someone once made that all young sheng tastes like kerosene to them. That's probably more related to teas like Xiaguan tuos, or Dayi's Jia Ji tuocha versions, but interpreted in a different way it could apply more broadly. This definitely doesn't taste like kerosene, but for someone not on the page of loving intensity and pronounced bitterness and mineral range it wouldn't be good. This takes some of that conventional sheng pu'er character pretty far in that direction.
Chopped or broken material tea tends to be even more challenging, and Xiaguan material often has its own intense and unique character, both in terms of flavor and feel. This isn't like that. For a lot of tea types high bud content can lead to a more subtle output, especially if the material is all buds. Not always; something like Jin Jun Mei black tea can be pretty intense. But Silver Needle variations, white teas, are often at the other end of the spectrum for intensity, on the mild side. The fine leaf material in this might make it quite strong, more so than the high buds content. And it's surely processed in a traditional sheng form, not oxidized or kill-greened more than is typical to pull that style a little towards oolong or green tea range.
Eighth infusion: this is as pleasant as this has been; it evolves well later into the brewing cycle. Rich feel is the nicest it has been as well. A lot of teas, even some sheng, would be fading some at this stage, but this is just hitting its stride. To me one part of the flavor starts to evolve towards citrus, actual orange or tangerine, but mineral still stands out, and a vague floral designation could still apply. It's not really a bright or sweet flavor forward tea though; bitterness stands out a good bit earlier on, and heavy mineral tone defines it more. People could interpret this as resembling root spice, or some type of medicinal herb, but that would integrate with those parts.
Three years old is probably pretty young for this tea. It's probably going to get better and go through different phases over the next 4 or 5 years, and then perhaps it would make more sense again later, after a 20 or so year aging transition cycle, maybe best after 25 years. Bright, fresh, sweet, very floral or fruity sheng tend to lose that appeal after 4 or 5 years, unless stored in such a way that it preserves them and prevents change, in cool and dry conditions. This will probably keep changing instead of just fading.
Conclusions:
One part of what I consider after the direct experience, the tasting, is how value works out for the tea. This is pretty good for a cake selling for under $100. It can be hard to identify a final, objective, clearly determined quality level. Preference issues mix in, related to how much one likes different styles and types. Different strengths and limitations factor in, and concerns related to trueness to type.
Intensity was great; the main point stressed in the product description. Bitterness level was fine, but also on the high side. For whatever reasons hui gan, a transition of bitterness to sweetness after swallowing the tea, doesn't map directly to that level of bitterness, I suppose as much to the form of it. It was only a moderate part of the experience, to me. That mineral base flavor really carried over as a main thing you experience in aftertaste. It was mostly positive in form, and pleasant, so that worked.
The flavor range could have been more distinctive, if the floral tones had stood out a bit more, or had taken on a more distinct form. That kind of thing tends to tie back to material input and narrow origin area. I don't think this was a blend of different inputs, which is one part that can limit that; my guess is that the material was just like that. The other aspect character was too intense and distinctive, the intensity, bitterness, and mineral input, for a lot of blending to have evened out character.
It's odd that this could pass for a 4 or 5 year old tea, dry stored, or maybe even 8 or 9, since it was presented as dry stored. They mentioned that it was stored in Xi'an, Shaanxi; I just looked up what the climate is like there:
In Xi’an, the summers are muggy, hot, wet, and partly cloudy and the winters are very cold, mostly clear, and dry. Over the course of the year, the temperature typically varies from 25°F to 89°F and is rarely below 17°F or above 98°F.
So it might have been cool and dry half the time, and warm and humid some of the rest (but 89 F is kind of cool, compared to here in Bangkok).
For most Western tea enthusiasts dry storage is considered to be a negative factor, but to me it just depends. If a tea is approachable, with distinct fresh flavors, then moving away from that quickly through transition caused by humid storage input is negative. If a tea is initially a bit challenging, with unusually high intensity, bitterness, or astringency then that same degree of transition works out well, and it's as well to get on with it.
The next question, that's harder to settle, is if different forms of transition adjust the different aspect range in different ways, at a different pace for different parts of the change (for flavor versus feel, to look at it from a high level, or related to finer level changes). People would have different opinions about that. Bangkok storage seems to warm flavor tones, beyond increasing transition pace; I can leave it at that. One typical concern over evolved flavors being too heavy, murky, or musty can relate to intentionally humid controlled conditions. Malaysian storage is often on the humid side, or that can come up in Hong Kong, but it just depends on the specific location and how conditions are controlled, or if they're not.
I've mentioned in this that I like approachable sheng the most: flavorful, sweet, fruity, less bitter and astringent versions. At the same time I really do like Xiaguan teas, even though those often tend to be better after 20 years of relatively humid storage. I've been drinking a Xiaguan tea ball that's an exception, and for whatever mix of reasons it's interesting and pleasant at less than a decade old (this one, a 2018 Reunion Xiaguan 500 gram Da Xue Shan tea ball). Maybe the origin area factors in:
...made from early spring big-leaf tea trees from Daxueshan, Mengku, Lincang in Yunnan Province.
That brings up that some people might be looking for a narrower origin designation than Bulang, for this tea.
All in all it was pleasant and interesting. It's a great tea to own a bit of, versus just trying a sample, because there is a lot of potential for positive changes to follow, over a long period of time, or it could be good in different ways at intermediate stages.
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Bangkok looking a little like Seoul, on a recent outing |
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out walking in some intense heat with Kalani |
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home life relates a lot to cats |
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the last temple outing |







































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