As part of exploring local meetup themes I asked others from this local interest group if they wanted to meet at the Zhennan Cafe in the Bangkok Chinatown, and a few of us did. It was nice, very comfortable and casual, as much about hanging out and talking as the tea experience.
It followed two other local outings that were shop visits, more about trying a number of different teas, and checking out shops (Jip Eu and Sen Xing Fa). A friend I've known for awhile and two others joined this outing version; it was nice meeting other local tea enthusiasts, as it was in earlier outings.
We tried a shu pu'er from there, and a Shui Xian (Wuyi Yancha oolong), and tasted a local Thai sheng version I brought. That was it; we didn't get too far. The shu was nice, typical for how those often tend to be, and the Shui Xian was better than I would have expected, well-balanced, with positive roast level, and a really nice mineral base. A Moonlight White (Yunnan White tea version) sounded like it was probably more pleasant and interesting than those, but I don't care much what I try, for having been through lots of versions of many types of teas, so trying whatever sounded good to others was best.
The teas there seem pretty good for being moderate in cost, from 150 to 300 baht or so, $5 to $10. I think they even have other off-menu options that are more rare and interesting, and teas to buy take-away.
This is the cafe where my friend in Singapore, John Lim, visited to hold a tasting a couple of weeks ago. The theme was wild origin South East Asian teas, I think spanning a number of countries. I didn't make it to that; I tend to save all my time off to spend with my kids, which won't come up again until they return in December, but I'll be off as much as possible to make the most of that time. I did visit Zhennan once the night before when they were preparing, so I had met at least one of the owners.
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John Lim! you can follow him on IG here. |
This shop had been a Chinese medicine business before, and there is still a range of that sort of thing available as a separate theme, not in that cafe space location, but retained in a separate area beyond there. I mention that in part because John described how visiting and obtaining some herbs helped him with recovery from dengue fever a year ago, and one of the people joining us toured that part of a different business during this visit.
The main part that stands out about the cafe is how comfortable it is; the design and layout are pleasant, and the staff are relaxed and hospitable. The tea service, in relation to gear, used a small clay pot for the pu'er and a gaiwan for the Shui Xian, seemingly whichever seemed most appropriate for the type. It was already set up for us, so using a gaiwan could require a little more practice but otherwise it's all ready to go.
I think the tea is alternatively sold pre-brewed as multiple infusions served in a small sharing pitcher (or a cha hai, gong dao bei, however you prefer to refer to that), so avoiding the whole brewing process would also work.
This location in Chinatown is perfect for a starting point for exploring some of the rest of what is around, just a few blocks North of the main part of the main Yaowarat strip (and maybe an extra two blocks West). There is a main shopping market stall alley just a couple blocks back towards the Wat Mangkon MRT station, which also isn't far away. You can't miss it; it's on the left as you walk West from that MRT station.
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that alley pre-covid; no masks |
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don't buy tea stored like this, in open bins |
On the way back home I walked down to the Chinatown pier and took a river ferry back to my area; it's great how those still only cost 16 baht (50 cents), and make you feel like you are on vacation. I could've taken the tourist boat version instead of the orange flag Thai commuter boat for 30 baht instead but that other line feels more familiar to me.
They seemed to have changed the stops it makes (which is normal; they often do), and Google Maps understanding is mostly accurate but one stop off (it made an extra one at Phra Arthit near Khao San Raod, which works better than missing where you'd hoped to go). River travel wouldn't be convenient for so many people, since it mostly crosses older parts of the city on the West side, but I'd highly recommend it for anyone who can use it.
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it's like a bus, except that it's a boat |
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Thai bridge |
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the Sathorn and Silom areas skyline |
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