Tea Tracks Zhang Jia Wan (2018) and Nan Nuo Shan (2016) sheng pu'er

 

Nan Nuo right, in all photos

I'm reviewing two more sheng pu'er from Tea Tracks, passed on by Jan, a friend who owns that (many thanks!).  

One part that looked interesting about these was how aging would factor in, since they're from 2016 and 2018, definitely not fully aged teas.  It should be interesting seeing how far along they are, and how it affects the experience at this point.  I broke normal form and checked the product descriptions before trying them, in order to avoid trying two teas together that make no sense as a tasting session set, which comes up sometimes.  They are these:

Zhang Jia Wan 2018 - 张家湾  ($127 USD, 114 Euro for 200 gram cake, also sold by sample)

Zhang Jia Wan is a village in the Yiwu mountains close to the border to Laos. This tea is made of ancient tree material (gu shu, 古树). This is an exciting tea! While it has the fruity characteristics of other Yiwu teas,  it can show a bit bolder side after a few steeps. It starts off mildly and flowery and turns into a bitter sweet fruity brew. 

After a few years of natural storage in Jinghong, in the southern part of Yunnan, it has hardly any astringency and produces a light, yet long lasting aftertaste.

Nan Nuo Shan 南糯山 2016  ($47 USD, 42.50 Euro for 200 gram cake, also sold per 25 grams)

This tea is from younger bushes in Nan Nuo Shan. Seven years of controlled storage in Jinghong has smoothed out the edges of it and it makes now a very enjoyable brew. 

It has a sweet and flowery aroma and a fruity taste. In the long aftertaste are hints of citrus. This tea has a nice uplifting energy. 

Taste:  Fruity with a long aftertaste

Trees:  Bushes （小木 xiao mu)

Origin:  Nan Nuo Shan, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, China

Harvest:  Early spring 2016

The description of the Nan Nuo version character is just what I like in sheng; this may not be a fair test for this tea, in comparison with that one.  To some extent I can break down other quality level oriented factors, beyond my own preference, but it's easiest to describe what I like or don't like about the teas.

Review:

Zhan Jia Wan:  it's ok initially, but it's also seemingly in an odd place for transition.  Bitterness and astringency is gone, to the extent these had been present, but sweeter floral tones don't stand out either.  It's headed into a flatter sort of character, I suppose closest to wood flavor range, but that's really not it.  Mineral base is still nice, and there is some complexity, and decent balance, but early on overall range is a bit limited.

Six years along for a tea is well beyond the initial partial aging cycle, where teas vary in character some over the first 2 or 3 years, or maybe 4, but still express an altered early form.  People describe what they see as "awkward teen years" for sheng aging differently, and that really depends on the tea, and on the storage conditions.  If you want a 6 year old tea to seem younger dry storage input could be better.  If you want it to resemble a decade worth of age (under cooler and drier storage conditions) then warmer and more humid storage would be better.  I think in the long run a gradual middle ground is best, as in Taiwan and Hong Kong, but then you often need to allow for 15 to 20 years for a relatively full transition cycle to occur, and probably longer in some cases.

Yunnan storage can be fine, as this mentions.  I suppose conditions right where it was would factor in, since elevation could change temperature, micro-climate can affect humidity, and so on.

Nan Nuo:  warm mineral stands out in this too.  It's stronger; I may well have used slightly more, but it also seems to just be brewing a little faster.  I have really liked some versions of Nan Nuo origin sheng related to those being very fruity, but I'm not noticing it so much in this.  8 years is a long time for transition; even more of the earlier character range would have shifted, from lighter and sweeter floral and fruity range on to heavier earthier range, maybe not earthy in the sense of peat, but on to more spice tones and such.

I have some teas that are around that middle range, 6 to 8 years old, that I try from time to time, but it's not the most familiar range to me.  I lose track of what versions were like earlier, or in some cases what teas even are, if labeling is extra plain.  This leads back to the theme of making it hard to judge these against my personal preference; I drink medium aged sheng, but I usually like brand new or versions at or under 4 years old better.  That's for more drinkable teas, of course; I'll drink Xiaguan tuo tea when it's 6 to 10 years old to have an atypical experience, sometimes, but that's a bit harsh.

Zhang Jia Wan #2:  depth and complexity really pick up; this may not be fully hitting its stride until next round.  It's still in that subtle, somewhat narrow range though.  To me this is just how Yiwu often works out; it transitions to taste like cured hay, or mild floral range, like chrysanthemum, with good depth, and pleasant fullness and supporting mineral base, but also limited flavor range.  Then there's always the concern that maybe I've not tried the best of the best Yiwu versions yet, and that's almost certainly the case, but I've tried a lot of Yiwu presented as quite good quality versions, many of them aged to different degrees.

Sweetness is pretty good for it falling into this character type, of course nothing like in younger versions.  Feel is rich enough.  Aftertaste experience is significant, but with flavor range so limited there isn't that much to carry over.  I think pretty good medium aged Yiwu can often be like this; it can age to lose a lot of intensity.  It comes up in discussion that some of that can come back, that once a tea switches over to a different character later, after more aging transition, the effect can be higher intensity across a completely different aspect range.

Nan Nuo:  complexity and intensity pick up a little in this version in this round too (I guess that I said depth in the last case; it's similar, if still a little different).  I really want to notice fruit in this, but at most it leans a little towards dried fruit range, like apricot.  A tone that's in between warm mineral, spice, and a medicinal character is stronger; it hints towards how older, more transitioned teas work out.  

This isn't rough-edged at all, although it will smooth out some more and gain more depth over the following years.  Body is more structured than in the other version; it comes across more as a dryness.  This would probably be a good tea version to get to drink a little of now, to experience how it is, but to hold onto for 2 or 3 more years.  It's really close to having a more fully aged character; it won't take long.  For being 8 years old that seems to relate to transitioning relatively fast.

Quality level seems pretty good for both of these; it's more about where the character ends up right now in an aging transition cycle, related to how much someone would like either.  For a lot of sheng drinkers it's also about how they might like either in the future.  I probably would have liked this version more 4 years ago, as it had been at the end of its youth.  It's probably shifting towards having a new form of appeal, and it's ok now, but it also seems a bit in-between, hence that teen analogy.  

My son is 15, soon to be 16, right in the middle, and teenagers can get an unfairly bad image.  Sure he's a bit silly, and can be annoying, but it's a fascinating life phase, pulling it all together as he is now.  He's still a sweet boy.  Maybe he is awkward in some ways that are similar to this tea, still sorting out what he's going to be, and what he is right now.

ZJW #3:  there is a depth to this tea that I've not done justice to describing.  Adding a lot of flavor and feel related adjectives may or may clarify that.  So far I've said that the flavor resembles cured hay, and mild floral range, probably understating a mineral input.  

I clicked through to another blog review cited on the vendor listing (might as well, since I've parted with the standard limited input approach), and that cited "mossy" as a main flavor input.  That works.  I could imagine others interpreting it as tied to forest floor, or even some variation of autumn leaf, but to me mossy works better.  It's not vegetal, but to me moss stands in between the vegetal, earthy, and spice ranges, drawing on mineral input as well.

Nan Nuo:  actual bitterness enters in, along with a varied form of vegetal input, more towards a woody tone.  Feel is much more structured and drier.  That's probably better than it sounds, but I'm still thinking that this has the potential to bridge to an interesting and pleasant aged character relatively quickly, within another 3 or 4 years.  I had said 2 to 3 last round; intensity and structure picked up a little.

I suppose there would be sheng drinkers who have learned to really appreciate medium-aged tea versions, and then they would have their own individual preferences, and either of these could be regarded as very pleasant, right now.  It could be that only one would be judged as such, and the other not, and that different people would land on opposite conclusions, liking a different one better.  

They're fine, to me, but I've adjusted to younger sheng preference, to appreciating high sweetness and floral and fruit flavor level, at the cost of that adjoining more intense bitterness and astringency.  These probably never were quite bitter teas, in the sense standard Lincang or Menghai versions more often are.  That's just a guess, of course, and I'm not the best person for that sort of speculation.

ZJW #4:  I drank a good bit of water to clear my palate after that last round, not noticing that intensity of bitterness and residual sweetness had built up so much.  I took a break then, out checking on the garden.

This reminded me of considering why I like sheng pu'er more than other tea types, in part related to drinking really good Dan Cong recently, a review I'll finish and post here first.  That tea was just as complex in flavor as almost any sheng, more so than these, with great intensity and depth, and quite good refined character.  To some extent overall intensity isn't the same across pretty much all oolongs  though, the way that sheng builds up to be such an intense experience, even beyond the frequent intense flavors and mouthfeel.  

For that sampling experience, and maybe for drinking 50 to 100 grams of a tea, that Dan Cong was just as interesting and pleasant as any kind would be, in relation to my preference, but later on I would crave the other levels of intensity.  That happens with black tea too, but for whatever reason I keep returning to black tea, as a favorite simpler form to experience in between whatever else I get to.

Back to this tea, mineral depth seems all the stronger.  That mossy description fits even better for that.  Still, sweetness and other complexity is fine, it's just subtle, more of the cured hay or mild floral flavor range.  It's odd how one might associate that with having more of an aged character than the other tea, which is two years older.  It definitely shifted to an age-progressed form a little faster, maybe related to being less challenging in character earlier on.

Nan Nuo:  mineral tone is stronger in this too, but in a completely different form.  It's more along the line of rusted metal.  It works better than it sounds, because there is other range adding depth to that primary experience input.  Aftertaste experience is pretty decent for both, but then if someone doesn't love the flavor range while drinking the tea they might not love what carries over either.  

Again I'm guessing that this has good potential as a more aged version, in not so long, within a few more years.  It might be better yet in 5 or 6, more refined, not the most intense or complex form of aged sheng, but in a range that works.  All depending on preference, of course.  

Higher quality, more boutique style oriented teas tend to be more approachable and to land in a much different place than "factory teas" after significant aging.  I just re-tried a CNNP / Zhongcha sheng pu'er version from way back when that's familiar to many, a 2007 CNNP 8891 cake, one Yunnan Sourcing must have sold a shipping container worth of by now, that I first reviewed in April of 2019.  It's finally ready to drink, 17 years after it was made, after spending 5 years in Bangkok and at least most of a dozen in Guangdong, in relatively humid conditions, just not like here.

ZJW #5:  a more distinct floral note emerges; this is interesting.  It's pretty much in the range one might expect, light and sweet, but with some intensity and complexity.  I wonder why that stands out a little more now?  Natural variation in what extracts across rounds, I guess.  But in general that sort of range would be more pronounced earlier, shifting to warmer and deeper scope later on.  Sometimes early astringency or harsher edges can wear off, but that usually happens fast, in the first few rounds, and this wasn't really harsh at all.  

Nan Nuo:  a medicinal spice range tone picks up in this version, starting to shift a little towards aromatic bark spice, or incense spices.  This is more or less what I was guessing this might show in another 2 or 3 years of aging, but I just needed to wait a couple of rounds to get to an early version of it.  It's interesting how that relates to a different mouthfeel and aftertaste range, how this coats your tongue and mouth in an interesting way.  I wonder when the product review was written?  If those notes are from this year I suppose that I just disagree with that interpretation, but if it ties to an earlier and less age-transitioned form it tells a different story, of a tea going through some changes.

Interpreting the aftertaste as including citrus makes more sense now, in reference to that product listing description.  For this changing as much as it has over the last three rounds it might shift a bit more yet.  The other version goes through a more limited and subtle cycle of changes across rounds.  Tied directly to experienced aspects the drier feel range and heavier mineral input in this version (warmer in tone; maybe less different in terms of intensity) there is aspect range and limitations to like or dislike in both, again depending on preference.  

I would expect the Yiwu / Zhang Jia Wan to just keep fading from here, retaining good depth for an extended time, but already being limited in flavor intensity.  This Nan Nuo version should shift in character; to me that edgier dryness of feel and heavier mineral could represent potential.

Conclusions:

These probably have one more shift in character to express, in this infusion sequence, but ten cups of them is a lot.  I discount, or even reject, valuing drug-like feel experience in teas, cha qi, or however one puts that, but to some extent I probably value that too, along with other intensity.  But it can also be too much, and I can never write notes on trying a full cycle of two sheng versions at the same time.

Quality seems good for these teas, and character seems in order for what they are.  Age transition might be a little ahead of normal schedule, related to some teas being stored drier, but in general that's probably a good thing.  They're not rushed for age transition as occurs here in Bangkok, where intense heat and humidity push that pace, probably a little beyond what is optimum.  The story of these teas seems to be about where they'll be in another 2 or 3 years, although it's quite possible that someone might love them at this stage.

Adding a little more about the pros and cons of partly aged teas seems in order.  One part I've stated; someone could prefer tea aspects at that stage, but others would not.  Then it's an alternative to buying fully aged tea versions, which could be problematic related to both available selection and price.  I've tried more older teas that weren't great than that were quite positive, and buying really good versions from a reliable curator vendor would come at a premium cost.  

Gambling on inexpensive medium-level aged versions, not presented as exceptional quality, has also not landed on great results, typically.  That one CNNP 8891 cake was pretty good, when I last tried it, but it probably wouldn't be ready yet if held in dry storage.  I really meant buying inexpensive cakes; that CNNP would be more mid-range.  These teas are of better quality, and a different style range; it's a different kind of case.  I personally don't love aged Yiwu enough to justify the cost of one, but others do, and the Nan Nuo version shows a lot of promise.  If it does age-transition to become exceptional, over however many years that takes, it's value would be significantly higher, and it may not take that many more years.

These are part of a Tea Tracks pu'er sampler set; I guess trying different versions to see what they think would make sense, versus buying one of these based on someone else's impression.  There are black teas in that set, which I think Jan passed on samples of; those should be interesting too.

Chen Sheng Hao Yin Ban Zhang and Nan Nuo sheng pu'er

 

Ban Zhang left in all photos (Nannuo right)

I'm trying two more teas from a tasting set sent by the Chen Sheng Hao vendor.  They're a curator vendor, per their description of background, seemingly specializing in sourcing better quality sheng pu'er.  I take all marketing claims with a grain of salt, but let's consider their own description:

Meng Hai Chen Sheng Tea Co., Ltd. was established in 2007 by Mr. Chen Shenghe, a tea lover who has worked in the tea industry for more than 50 years. At Chen Sheng Hao, we’re passionate about sharing the rich history and unique flavors of Chinese tea with the rest of the world. Our single origin teas highlight the characteristics of the regions and tea trees from which they’ve grown. Our award winning blends come with a time tested reputation for proper aging.

   

Sounds good.

I have reviewed two other versions, presented as the more basic range in that set (of 7 small cakes, 28 grams each, divided into four sections in a "candy bar" style).  To me presentation as small cakes is an especially catchy form, but of course the tea experience itself is the thing.  It worked better this time separating out the leaves, as shown, prying apart the quarter disk section, which removes part of the functional convenience of just breaking off a chunk, but either way does work.

In this round I'm trying one presented as one of the best of the set (a few are described that way, as of unusual origin or award-winning versions), from the Ban Zhang area, and one presented as a conventional example of Nan Nuo origin.  I've had good experiences with tea from that area before (both, really), not that I've tried enough that I'm certain I've experienced a typical range.

Their website descriptions (an excerpt from the whole set):

2022 Yin Ban Zhang (银班章)

A blended raw Pu-erh selected materials from the Ban Zhang area. This tea has powerful "Chaqi". The beginning taste is bitter and slightly astringent with quick sweet aftertaste.

2022 Ban Po Zhai (半坡寨)

Sourced from Nannuo mountain with a light sweet orchid aroma, subtle woody aroma, and lingering sweet aftertaste.

Quality level is only indirectly implied in those descriptions, of course.  It's interesting how it works out, that there is a difference.  It's not as simple as that one factor shifting how positive an impression is though, but that's a lot of it.

Review:

Yin Ban Zhang:  as always a little light for a full breakdown, on this first round, but then that's how I try teas.  Sweetness is very nice; that definitely stands out.  Flavors are bright and complex already, largely in a floral range.  That flavor set is catchy already, towards fruit, or juicyfruit gum.  A hint of early bitterness implies that will pick up.

Ban Ph Zha (Nannuo):  a little flat compared to the other, but that could easily also relate to starting slower.  The two mini-cake materials separated differently, and this stayed in full chunks, while the other flaked off to become more loosened tea.  This seemed to be pressed a little harder.  I'll give it a few extra seconds and describe more next round.

Ban Zhang 2:  this is nice.  Bitterness did ramp up quickly, and sweetness and very complex flavor dialed up as well.  I suppose it's possible that there is a type-typical flavor range for Ban Zhang area teas that this expressed.  I've tried three versions from there, I think, or at least teas presented as such, but my memory isn't good enough to reach back to three different tastings over a number of years.  I could consult review notes here but won't; teas vary by other factors than typical character per origin area.

Flavor intensity and that balance of sweetness with bitterness is nice.  And the feel structure, and the way aftertaste lingers much longer than is typical.  I'm not sure if I'll get far with breaking this down further than tasting like floral range towards fruit, leaning towards juicyfruit gum effect.  Those markers identify this as better quality tea (intense and sweet flavor, positive bitterness, feel and aftertaste), but I'm not sure I enjoy it so much more for it seeming better.  Good complex flavor and positive character is already enough for me, and some of the aspects that seem like quality markers are more positive to experience than others.  It is interesting.

Nannuo:  warmer toned.  It comes across as more subtle, but that's really due to the relative intensity of the other version.  It's in a normal range.  Warmer mineral is where that tone is mostly expressed.  Flavor range is floral; I'll see about adding to that description in the following rounds.  It seems good; flavors are positive, the bitterness is at an appropriate level, a little lower, in good balance, with decent feel and some aftertaste experience.  

I've been drinking fairly approachable Vietnamese young sheng, brand new versions, and it's interesting getting back to more of a Yunnan style.  Both of these may have been more challenging two years ago, but probably still fine to drink then.  Two years of normal storage for moderately tightly pressed cake won't change so much, but approachability may increase, and more extreme edge of bitterness and astringency may transition some.  A vague freshness will drop off, but that's not the kind of aspect that's easy to describe or place.  For a lot of young sheng limited initial change is mostly positive.

Ban Zhang 3:  hitting its stride; more intense and integrated.  Even at a slightly lower 7 grams proportion--I surely brew 8 or 9 more often--I'll need to keep times fast to keep intensity / brewed strength moderate.  Tones warm up, matching the other's.  Stored in warm and humid enough conditions these really could have changed a good bit in two years, but at a guess that input was moderate.  Then again I'm comparing that to Bangkok, one of the hottest and most humid places one could find, where a year can really change a pu'er.

Flavors are complex; there's a lot one could say for interpretation.  Range is mostly floral, but to me it leans towards fruit.  It's hard to specify which fruit, but to add a guess similar to fresh lychee, maybe also with a touch of citrus.  That warming occurred across mineral range; if it keeps extending it might resemble some sort of spice tone more, since that's a relatively common transition pattern.

Nannuo:  as the other picks up more and more intensity this seems more and more flat.  Really it's pretty good; flavors are positive, feel is nice, there is some aftertaste experience, moderate bitterness complements the rest, and warm tones join floral range.  It doesn't necessarily need to be pushed to express more intensity; there's no reason it should need to match the other tea.  It's just a different kind of experience.

Ban Zhang 4:  vegetal range picks up, a bit towards pine.  It's interesting, as combined with the floral range, fruit, and warm mineral.  There's a lot going on with this.  Feel deepens and becomes richer too, trading out structure for fullness.  With the general warming tone across infusions it's a lot of transition to experience.

Nannuo:  I do like this tea, even though it's much simpler, less intense and complex.  Warm mineral and floral range is joined by a touch more fruit, towards dried fruit, like apricot.  Bitterness has eased up, in a really limited, moderate level at this point (maybe still a little higher than in the young Vietnamese sheng I mentioned, for reference).  Feel structure is significant but not challenging.  There is some aftertaste experience but it's not pronounced in comparison with the Ban Zhang version.  

This tea would seem better if not directly compared with the other; it gives up intensity across all of the aspects range.

before mixing rounds to adjust for brewing these too long

Ban Zhang 5th and 6th infusions:  it's not a great idea to comparison taste this tea along with another version; that's not really a surprise.  The flavor and mouthfeel intensity is going to be adjoined with body feel effect and impact on your stomach.  

People value the former, the head and body buzz, but I tend to take steps to offset all of it.  I ate breakfast just before this tasting, and just ate some mixed nuts and chocolate to settle my stomach.  I don't have stomach problems, but still take steps to keep it that way, not blasting down a liter of strong tea with no protective food input.  Eating offsets feel effects, noticing cha qi, which is fine for me.

These teas would be fine brewed much lighter, using 10 second infusion times, or less, but I'm not making that adjustment.  Writing while tasting is part of it; it's easy to lose focus for 30 seconds, and that's way too long an infusion time.

Intensity really is a bit much this round.  Typically I'd brew the next round as a flash infusion and combine the two, to dilute that.  This may be the first time I've used that hack during a tasting, but let's do that.

This is still strong tea.  Brewed infusion strength is back to normal, diluted down, but lighter than normal might make even more sense.  Sweetness is intense, floral range and other flavors also are, rich feel and aftertaste are intense.  Even tempered by food input the drug-like cha qi effect is strong.  

I don't identify as a drug user, but then it's odd how tea and exercise experiences I seek out probably include a lot of that kind of input, which is surely no accident.  I run like I'm training for something, 10 to 12 km at a time, even in heat, pushing up hill sections, and never connect that with craving the endorphin buzz from it.  I drink a lot of wild-origin tea, which seems pleasant to me, and could possibly be safer, but I probably also crave feel effect that I'm not explicitly noticing.  Usually; sometimes I do notice.

Nannuo:  plainer, simpler, and less intense, but this would come across differently without the comparison.  It's good, complex, refined, and well-balanced.  But across all the aspect scope the other is a little more extreme, sweeter, more floral, with more supporting flavor range, richer in feel, with longer aftertaste, just dialed up.  The other tea would make more sense if you drank it brewed much lighter, appreciating that intensity in a different experience context.  

This works well at a normal infusion strength (normal or medium for me; that would vary by person).  

It's tempting to say that per some potential preference it could be seen as better than the other as a result.  That seems a stretch, but it doesn't seem to work to say that the other one is just better since everything is so much more dialed up.  In one sense it is just better, but in another just different.  It's clearly better quality tea, and the styles are vaguely similar enough that it doesn't work to say that someone might love this one but not the Ban Zhang tea.  It's possible, but probably not.

Next round:  trying them lighter the Ban Zhang is better, pleasant that way, and the Nannuo is way too thin.  It may be giving up a little sweetness already, or it could just be how it comes across brewed too light.  I'll drop the note-taking here, since it runs long for me to write and readers to go through, and 14 cups of tea is plenty at one time (over an hour or more, this has been, since I've also been doing other things).

I suppose these did fade a little fast for drinking them on the stronger side, related to trying a few more rounds.  It was a busy day yesterday, as my weekends tend to be, and rushing trying two teas and taking notes led to less careful brewing, letting infusion times run a bit longer as a result.

Conclusions:

I've concluded so much already, and don't want to just type it again.  It was interesting how one tea was so much better, that much more distinctive, intense, and higher in quality level, and the other still kind of held its own, to a limited degree.  It was in a character range I like; that helped.

Maybe both versions resembled what I've tried before from those origins; as I remember they did.  Styles vary some too, so I mean within that limitation.

For one being flagged as representing a distinctive, unique tea version and the other representing an area and different kind of experience they were both positive and appropriate.  The Nan Nuo version is better than a typical factory tea version, of course, more in the range in-house specialty production teas tend to land in.  Not on the high side related to that typical quality level, since plenty of vendors are putting out really nice teas as their best versions, but good, and pleasant, certainly not representative of lower-medium quality "basics" tasting sets.

Related to separating the leaves initially, breaking them apart, that seemed to help with consistency of brewing.  People who are ok with--or really don't care for--brewing dragonball forms would probably know where they would stand on this kind of issue.

Sheng pu'er aging check on two past favorites, Yiwu and Nan Nuo

It's about time to go back and revisit some favorites from the past few years and see if my expectations about them aging in certain ways was right.  One is a Nan Nuo, another a Yiwu, almost 3 and 4 years old.  Of course the comparison isn't a complete parallel.  I won't be reporting those sorts of results here too regularly, but it seems a good time for an exception.

That was as long a break from blogging as I've taken in awhile, about three weeks.  My family didn't get far for taking a break from Bangkok; my wife had started to plan a trip to Dubai, relatively last minute, then that fell through, so we went to Korat (Nakorn Rachasima).  It's a good sized local town at this side of Isaan, the North-East region of Thailand.  We did kids' activities, a water park, zoo, mall play area; all the things that they already have in Bangkok, more or less.

Back to the tea, these are two of my overall favorites in sheng range so far.  I've tried lots of really exceptional "gushu" version samples that vendors have passed on, many that were just as good as these two, but somehow these really clicked with me.  It's a little different having a cake of a tea; you can only get so attached to a sample.

The idea here is to get some idea of how they are changing.  I'll cite a short version of an initial review, ignoring if I've written about them since first trying them, if I did, and then check on results in comparison with that.


Nannuo Sheng Cha (Moychay.ru), 2017, reviewed first here in January 2018


This tea I bought in a Moychay shop in St. Petersburg, kind of on a whim, since I don't typically buy full cakes I've not tried a sample from.  I was pleasantly surprised.  Citing from the earlier review notes:


The initial infusion the tea is nice, as I remember it, very bright and fresh.  Astringency and bitterness are a little more pronounced than I remember because I'm preparing it brewed a bit strong for this first infusion, using a relatively standard high proportion of tea for Gongfu brewing...out toward 30 seconds, as a result of talking to my daughter about something.

The tea was described as tasting like fruit and it really does, plum and white grape.  That bright, sweet flavor and overall freshness are so pronounced that it's hard to notice much beyond those aspects.  There is more going on; some warmer aspect range fills in more flavor experience grounding the rest, maybe towards a hint of nutmeg... 

I love the fruit in it, and that overall "bright" effect. Often when I'm drinking sheng made within the past year I'm saying this might be better in a year or two, a little less edgy, but in this case I'm not so sure.  If that brightness were to decline, as it would to some extent, the balance might be just as positive, or more so, or the tea could've been best drank when very young like this.  I'll have to try to not drink or give away too much of this tea so I can keep trying it over the next few years...


That's pretty much it; it seems really drinkable and pleasant, not bitter or astringent at all for sheng under one year old.  That "remember it" reference related to drinking some on that vacation.

maybe the day I bought it, maybe the next day

a park right beside that shop, on January 1st, 2018

I was concerned it might be better then than ever again, because it was so nice that way when young, so I "drank through it" more than I tend to, even for teas that I like.  I generally have a lot of tea around to choose from, so it's not as if leaving off a cake changes things much for selection.


Yiwu Lucky Bee 2016, from Tea Mania, first reviewed in July 2018


Both these teas are sold out; that's how that would go.  Both had next year's versions available, and soon enough both of those will be gone too, or maybe already.  It's not how that usually goes but the Tea Mania vendor sent me a cake of this tea (Peter Pocajt; many thanks again), who is on the relatively short list of tea vendors I've actually met in person from visiting here in Bangkok once.  He's nice.

This tea didn't seem to have the kind of character that was going to diminish rather than improve when I first tried it, not as bright, fresh, fruity, and sweet, but the character was positive, and the potential was clearly evident.  Earlier review notes again (cited from above linked post):


The style is unusual; it's very pleasant, but not similar to a lot of what I tend to try.  It has floral aspect to it, so it's not completely off what I've tried for other Yiwu, but even that comes across just a little differently.  I'm already getting the impression that this is better than what I usually drink.  The balance is really nice, the way it's even across that floral range, with sweetness that's pronounced but also moderate, not intense.  The mineral range is also prominent but in normal proportion.  The tea is a bit light on bitterness and astringency but both are present, to a degree that works.  I may not do justice to what I mean, about which part or which balance of typical aspects works out better.

On the atypical side there's a catchy aspect that goes beyond normal Yiwu floral tone, but related to that, that's hard to place.  It might just be a lighter, sweeter, more subtle, and brighter version of a floral tone, or it could even extend slightly towards fruit.  It's a short step towards lemon citrus or pandan leaf, the herb that tastes like Fruity Pebbles cereal to me, but it doesn't quite get to those...

...On the next round it occurs to me that part of what I like might be a lingering sweetness, that gives the experience an overall extra intensity.  It's not the form that seems to be what is usually referred to as hui gan; not so much tied to bitterness, extending into a taste that occurs on the back of your mouth and throat, a sensation that pairs directly with a taste.  It occurs throughout your whole mouth instead, a bit lighter, more bright-taste associated versus heavier and sweet...
  
It would seem normal for someone to interpret this sweetness as some type of bright, sweet, but mild fruit instead of a floral tone.  It's not completely dis-similar to dried mango but not quite that...


That could be it, that both included a fruit aspect, which I'm partial to, even in sheng, where it's not completely atypical but perhaps unusual.

I don't think those citations really caught my full impression of why aging the Nan Nuo seemed a potential trade-off of freshness and intensity that might not be positive, but that the Yiwu seemed to exhibit good potential for aging transition.  As far as long term aging prospects, where both would be in a decade, I just wasn't there yet, and I'm still really not.  I have a dozen year old Yiwu version (brick) that has interesting depth and fullness, but the character has thinned across other range, with flavor intensity not really standing out much at all at this stage.  Maybe both would be like that, or maybe both would just fade.

We're not there yet; I'm now tasting these as a nearly four year old Yiwu and nearly three year old Nan Nuo.  Both should be relatively fully aged related to that first stage of smoothening out initial bitterness and astringency a bit, and losing initial intensity, prior to the longer middle period where it changes a lot more over the first dozen years or so.  On with checking on that.

Moychay Nan Nuo; a good-sized chunk left

Tea Mania Lucky Bee Yiwu

Moychay label graphic copied on inner tag (small hands show scale)

About the cake / bing chunks left over, there seems to be a convention related to how to break apart sheng that results in those looking more like a big life saver at the end, whittled down to a thin, round section.  I tend to break off a piece when I share some, even though it's probably slightly more functional to separate off large flakes, to reduce ripping some leaves in two. 

You do you for breaking up a cake, I guess.  It's interesting how such things might mark out group identification as much as actually be functional, but I won't waste more time on that type of observation here.

Review:

Nan Nuo left, in all photos 

2017 Nan Nuo:  I let these go longer than I usually would for sheng, to get the process started, and not add "I'll know better next round once they start infusing more."  Of course the initial brightness and freshness from two years ago is gone (when I first tried it; this tea is 2 3/4 years old).  It went in an interesting direction; mineral picked up a lot, some of that range light, like limestone, and the rest more like drinking from an artesian well, heavy.  Brighter fruit transitioned to dried fruit instead, along the line of dried pear.  It's still quite nice, and it would be a matter of preference if it's better, worse, or equivalent but different.  I think I loved it more as it was; there was something really catchy in that flavor and character set, and the bright intensity.


2016 Yiwu:  this is nodding towards old sheng range already; odd that would come up this fast.  It has a deeper root spice and dark wood theme starting in.  The early forms of astringency have already mostly rounded off (as for the Nan Nuo; I didn't say that explicitly).  This could pass for where dryer storage sheng is after a dozen years, it's just different in character.  There is no mustiness, no edge of off storage related input, beyond that fermentation level range potentially being seen as undesirable.  It's clean in effect, but it is warm and has the depth of older tea, a "darker" flavor range.  It's not woody in the sense of tasting a lot like aged hardwood, as some teas really do, but the root spice flavor leans toward old tree bark.  Tasting back and forth a little the Nan Nuo does include a bit of cedar range too, that bright, aromatic, sharper wood range.

This second tea is thicker related to feel; it's heavy, and really coats your tongue. 

Second infusion:

Yiwu (right) leaves are darker and it's brewing slightly darker

Nan Nuo:  this is really starting to shine; brewing it for around 10 seconds after it had already started is much closer to optimum.  It's not really the set of aspects that makes this work, it's the balance of them.  Fullness isn't bad, and aftertaste adds complexity, it's just that neither stands out.  In flavor range a strong mineral element, some aromatic wood, and complex dried fruit range really hang together well.  It still includes dried pear but warmer dried fruit ramps up, maybe jujube, Chinese date.  It doesn't seem to include much for bitterness, but what's left of prior bitterness hasn't settled out completely, as I interpret it lending an edge to that cedar-like flavor. 

Really pairing up individual aspects as related in a tea version like that (a residual trace of bitterness and cedar wood) could just be my imagination, seeing flavor and feel aspects as combined, but joining two aspects that aren't necessarily related.


Yiwu:  I didn't expect this tea to be like this at all.  I've been drinking a few dry-stored sheng versions from Chawang Shop, from various origins, and they're nothing like this at the same general stage, not just different but completely different.  I think the versions from 6 to 8 years ago aren't this fully fermented. 

It brings up the idea, if this really is that far along the curve for transition, what about those "awkward middle years" that people often reference?  It should be just prior to that, give or take for normal variation.  Again bitterness and initial astringency may have only almost entirely subsided, now coming across as an edge to the flavor and tied to a bit of feel dryness.  At the end I'll conclude that maybe it's not necessarily that teas lose flavor and get it back, although to some extent I suppose that can happen, but instead that aspect range just isn't as desirable over some fermentation level span, for some versions, and also in general.

To be clear I tend to discuss that feel aspect and flavor aspect together (bitterness and astringency) because both tend to pair in teas, and come across as related.  The relation could as easily just be in my head, as a trace of bitterness and cedar flavor might've been in the last sample notes just prior.

As far as liking either more at this stage I really like both, so it's kind of a draw.  Again I think this Yiwu may be destined for a very positive future, just one that will play out faster than I expected.  Based on this glance ahead I think the Nan Nuo will be quite positive too, I just won't have any of it left for that experience, because I've drank most of it already.  No regrets; I really liked it as it had been.

Third infusion:

Nan Nuo:  what I'll interpret as root spice and a light aromatic wood picks up, with dried fruit and mineral pulling back.  It's nice.  Sweetness level isn't what it was when it was younger, but it works in support of this aspect range.  Thickness isn't as pronounced as in the other tea but it also works.


Yiwu:  wood tones picked up a little in this too.  Just to be clear on brewing process, both of these are where the normal fourth infusion would be, for rushing things on that first round.  The early transition cycle has played out. 

It's interesting how the earlier astringency in this tea has shifted to a dryness instead, paired with smooth fullness.  It has more of what was initially astringency left than the Nan Nuo, even though it's a year older.  For as fast as this is changing I'd expect that in two more years that feel will be relatively different, as will the flavor range.  It was tempting to try a third tea along with these; I'd spotted a Dayi 7542 baseline version when looking for them, from 2014.  It will be interesting to see how that's doing, but it's a different subject, a completely different tea type within sheng range.  These two are already different enough, just comparable in some ways, and keeping track of differences for two versions makes more sense.

Fourth infusion:

I'll probably leave off making notes here, since this story isn't about the full infusion transition range of either tea, it's just about where they generally are.


Nan Nuo:  still catchy and positive; the sweetness and fruit seems a little stronger this round.   That would shift a little based on minor differences in timing, just not paying attention.  This tea probably works better brewed a little lighter than I'm making it, closer to 5 seconds at a very high proportion instead of around 10.  Not to work around astringency, or moderate any other negative aspect or balance, as can occur for younger sheng, just to make the flavor and character pop best.


Yiwu:  warm floral range seems to be a little stronger than I've been noticing; interesting.  It seems possible that both teas will be just as good, or maybe even slightly better, and just different over the next 4 infusions or so [not really better, looking back later, but they still had positive character].  It's still too much work to keep writing notes, and probably too much to read. 

It has been really positive spending a few weeks just drinking tea, not writing about it, and it'll be nice to go through some of that with these after I put this laptop away.  I've been cycling through lots of sheng at various ages and from various areas, day to day, drinking whatever I feel like; it's been nice.

Still on general background, I think I'll probably review less tea this year.  I'd meant to do a post thanking vendors for contributing samples last year, and explaining where I am on exploration, and writing about what I try.  The short version is that it was nice to spend a few years doing 100 posts a year (4 years, actually), and reviewing more teas than that count given the comparisons, but it was a bit much.  What I was saying started to repeat a lot.  Work gets busier too; two projects will take up a lot of time over the first half of this year.  Those are ISO system implementations at my own company and one we will also support, IT services and information security related sets of control processes (policies, procedures, standardized records, risk assessment process--all the usual).  That's also why I never talk about work here; it's not engaging.


Not much for conclusions; results weren't exactly as I expected.  The Yiwu is aging faster than I remembered from trying it last (sometime last year, not that long ago), and the Nan Nuo has changed a lot over the same time frame, over the last 6 to 8 months.  I can see why; it's ungodly hot and humid here.  It's January--the end of the cool season--and somewhere around 30 C / 90 F right now.

91 F, and 56% RH.  The two air filters beside me say 65 and 67% RH (and 31 C); I'm inclined to believe them instead for how muggy it is.  It's not cool.

One last thing to mention comes to mind:  how do I like these teas versus when I first tried them, and in relation to tasting them last year?  I think they were both slightly better last year.  The Nan Nuo I think I did like best when I first tried it, as my intuition then concluded; that relatively new, bright, intense, sweet character really worked for me.  I've seen this Yiwu go from on the newish side to pretty far into fermentation and I think it hit an early peak for being positive around a year to year and a half ago, when initial rough edges rounded off but more early intensity and character remained.  As I thought of it then I still think it has loads of potential for being great tea after another half dozen years or so.

I'm surprised that the Nan Nuo is going in a positive direction, that although the trade-off isn't positive per my preference I can sort of "look ahead" and see it being quite nice after an equivalent half dozen years.  I think the Yiwu will retain more intensity and feel depth in the long run, probably tied to being more astringent and bitter initially, for being less positive in some ways then, in ways that seemed to indicate potential. 

I can set these aside for a couple more years and check on progress related to that.  It won't be surprising if this Yiwu tastes like some fairly mature aged tea then, a bit ahead of schedule, after being around for only a half dozen years.  There will probably still be some rough edges to smooth out, and maybe it will go a little quiet at some stage, but it should seem like kind of old tea within the first decade.

Of course all that aging expectations context relates to drinking plenty of dry-aged versions last year, teas that retained some fresh character after a decade or longer.  Some of those were more compressed; different factors come into play.  It will probably take longer than the half dozen years these teas need to transition for me to put all those factors together better in understanding sheng fermentation.

King Tea Mall Nan Nuo and Zi Qi comparison

Nan Nuo left, Zi Qi right

Both of these are sold as 2018 Spring gushu versions; should be nice.  They're part of a set provided by John of King Tea Mall for review purposes, and to provide me with some exposure to different tea versions (many thanks for that).

Related to the "gushu" theme, I don't worry too much about how old the tea plants might really be compared to that description, but to some extent some typical aspects tend to show up along with more reliable claims of tea plants being older (pronounced mineral, longer aftertaste, general intensity, etc.).  The extent to which a tea matches that character seems more relevant than a plant-age average that no one could possibly know for sure.

If I were more into the "cha qi" or drug-like effect there's that; it could correlate to plant age, to some limited degree.  I'm already high on life though.


Per what is becoming a standard approach I'll cite the vendor descriptions here first, which I didn't read prior to doing the tasting and review notes:


2018 SPRING “NAN NUO BA MA” GUSHU 200G CAKE PUERH SHENG CHA RAW TEA


BaMa(拔玛) which means “Old Arbor Tree” in local AiNi dialect. On the elevation of above 1600m in NanNuo tea mountain(南糯山), here has national original forest called GuoYouLin(国有林) . When I went there first time in spring of 2018 year, I was totally astonished by the well preserved natural environment and forests there...

Dry tea leaf is fragrant, long and strong... The sweet taste near sugar cane not just come from HuiGan(one kind of aftertaste when bitterness retreats) but also can be felt when sip tea liquid... 

...Richness, Fruity, Wild flavor, Strength in ChaQi


This is selling for $69 for a 200 gram cake (equivalent to around $125 per 357 gram version).  Given the character (after the review tasting) that seems quite good for value.  I tend to almost never buy any teas approaching 50 cents per gram ($.35, really), which ties to a budget themed issue, but the positive character of this tea really stood out.


2018 SPRING “ZI QI ” CAKE 100G PUERH GUSHU SHENG CHA RAW TEA

This tea was made from spring tea materials of GuShu(old tree) from YiWu(易武) as main and sub-materials of BanPen(班盆 where belongs to BanZhang tea area, also called one of five BanZhang villages).  YiWu tea is famous for it’s softness and floral tea flavor... 

Tea liquid is rich and soft.  Bitterness is stronger than general pure YiWu tea because of mixed BanPen tea from BuLang tea mountains.

Astringency is on medium level.

HuiGan is on high level with unique sweetness from YiWu tea, soft and lingering in mouth even deep into throat.


This version is listed for $30 for 100 gram cake.  It's on the low side for tea material claimed to be from older plants but it is a mix of two types, which isn't usually how that goes, even if it somehow makes perfect sense related to a complimentary character of the materials.

Review

Nan Nuo left (in all of these pictures)

Nan Nuo: the characteristic flavor in one of my favorite sheng versions shows up in this, a white grape / pear fruitiness. It would be possible to interpret that as floral range but to me it's clearly not mainly that, although some additional floral range gives it a nice complexity.  It all comes across well: great balance and intensity, nice clean flavors, good sweetness, a mild but well integrated bitterness, supporting light mineral, good feel and aftertaste.

Mineral stands out a little more than in the version I keep citing as a past favorite (this one, from Moychay, reviewed here), which works.  Looking back on that (and the next-year 2018 description, and another gushu Nan Nuo version from them, the fruit theme keeps repeating, even in this same general range).


Zi Qi (Yiwu and Ban Pen blend):  the character overlaps a little but it's also quite different. It's warmer toned, with a richer, heavier mineral range, and more floral than fruity. The mineral is so pronounced it comes across as spanning a range of warm rock mineral with a hint of metal (maybe nickle?).  These were brewed relatively fast but this is still too strong.

I think outside of that I'd still prefer the Nan Nuo version related to the character range clicking but this is also clearly good tea. I usually follow that with noting that "good" is relative, but quality level is evident in both, the range of markers for sheng is there.  The other is brighter and sweeter, with flavors in a different range, all of which matches my own type preference, but I'm sort of trying to communicate something else. Back on the preference side how the metal edge in mineral tone plays out will define how much I end up liking this version.

Second infusion

Nan Nuo: intensity comes across clearly even in a relatively fast infusion; at a normal proportion (normal for me, at least) flash brewing would be strong enough. Mineral warms and intensifies in this round; in a limited sense it approaches the other version. The sweeter fruit range flavor is still present though, still primary. It seems to be clearly "better" tea than that personal-favorite Moychay version as markers go, tied to the intensity, pronounced mineral, balanced bitterness, and aftertaste, but I'm not so sure that I like it better. That version had a rich feel as well, a creamy edge, and being softer and less complex across some range didn't necessarily seem like a drawback. It was just different in style.

The split in opinion on more drinkable sheng versus more intense versions would dictate preference, in reference to the range I just mentioned, with that implying more perspective orientation than is necessary or easily sorted out or justified. I'd expect this would hold up to aging better but I'd probably not prefer it much different than it is anyway. Maybe it would outshine that version as a 2 to 3 year old version, not as an aged tea but with some transition.


Zi Qi: this is still intense; flash infusions it is. It's pleasant though; that warmer tone and really pronounced mineral works.  The effect isn't so different but it has shifted a little towards aromatic wood range, like cedar or redwood. Calling that spice sounds better, I'm just not familiar with which spices are similar. The other version expressed a pronounced aftertaste but this version's is really strong. The feel isn't really dry but there's a structure to it that comes across as towards dryness. It's definitely not a straight-cedar version of sheng but splitting that and warm mineral isn't completely dissimilar.

The effect of these teas is kicking in, the "cha qi" buzz. Of course comparing them gives up distinguishing which is the more pronounced source of that, and probably throws off a purer experience of it for that mixing. My ordinary brain state suits me well enough, so although it's heresy to express it those types of changes are just different, not necessarily better, or even of interest. I could feel a little clearer all the time but tea can only help so much with that; more consistent sleep and exercise would help more.

Third infusion

Nan Nuo: that light fruit is transitioning to a richer, deeper toned dried fruit range, at this point a little towards dried persimmon. If those aren't familiar it's something to keep an eye out for on your next Chinatown outing. Warmth picking up could be compared to a wood tone, or autumn forest floor scent. Both together, bridging across from light fruit, with pronounced mineral, all works well.

This is already one of my favorite teas to have tried this year. That last Bada version from Chawang Shop stood out for an unusually rich feel and character effect but this adds a couple of dimensions, those marker aspects (mineral, feel structure, long aftertaste), and matching my preference in flavor range. The Zi Qi version would end up being described more positively (or at least seeming so) tasted along with lots of other teas instead.


Zi Qi: this could easily be a tea that clicks with someone more than the character does for me; the complexity is good, positive aspects span a broad range, intensity is really something, and aromatic wood towards spice with warm mineral tones works. It doesn't necessarily come across as sweeter than average and I think I'm biased towards that, seeing it as not just positive taken alone but helping lots of other range seem to balance. The metal trace never did intensify, and to most that would probably just seem like very pronounced and complex mineral.

Fourth infusion

These are intense; this may have to be it before getting a break.

Nan Nuo: more or less in a similar range, but a bit more green wood tone that had only been a vegetal background picked up to be primary. It's still very nice, quite complex and well balanced, just no longer as fruity in character.

Zi Qi: this evolves to express that same wood tone; different. There's more warmer and aromatic wood tone backing it, the cedar, so it's different, but the two are by far the most similar they've been. I should go mess around online until this buzz subsides a little and try one more round, or maybe walking around outside would be better, even though I've got a sprained ankle now. That's annoying, taking 6 weeks off walking normally. It helps with appreciating the little things though.

Fifth infusion

A half hour break settled out some of the stoned effect so I'll try one more round to get a better feel for mid-cycle transitions.

Nan Nuo: at this point this could be a version of lots of better than average teas; that particular main wood tone flavor aspect is common enough. The rest marks it as a good version, balanced bitterness, mineral, extended aftertaste, etc. It will probably taper off to lose range over a few more rounds, and then become less pleasant after a few more, but who knows.

Zi Qi: it is odd how these approached each other in character. Some layers still don't match but they're relatively similar across primary flavor and most others.

[Notes prior to reading the vendor description]:  I'm curious about pricing for these. I've been accustomed to seeing $1 / gram on versions sold as gushu, so that a match to what is implied about typical character becomes the main issue, overlapping with general quality level issues but also tying to a specific form. They generally match the form, but one matches my own likes much better across flavor range, maybe even for general character.  At a guess demand per local area is as much a factor as anything else, which of course I'm not keeping track of.

[Conclusions added later]:  They seemed like nice teas for that price range, $.35 / gram for the Nan Nuo and $.30 for the other (which turns out to be a mix of Yiwu and Ban Pen materials; Zi Qi is just a brand name from an old Chinese story).  There's an odd sort of sub-theme related to me liking Nan Nuo versions, or anyone else really:  they're often fruity, per my still-limited exposure to them.  I looked back through old posts and I tried a boutique version that was probably pretty good three years ago (this one) but in reading that review my impression is that I just didn't have enough sheng background to pull together what I was experiencing.  That applies now too, just in a different sense; it's all relative.

A point in that King Tea Mall covers what I'm getting at:

Also I think this is a kind of tea could be recommended to new comers.


I'm not actually new to sheng at this point but I don't get the impression that fruit taste is what a lot of sheng drinkers are looking for, or even certain flavor range in general, really.  I wouldn't say it's a soft, approachable "oolong pu'er" but it's rich in texture versus structured, with limited versus moderate bitterness, and on the sweet and flavorful side.

Then again Yiwu versions tend to not be challenging either, and those are well-regarded, with versions I've tried presented as better teas often soft and floral, as this Zi Qi version vendor description claims.

Related to that Moychay Nan Nuo version I keep saying is a favorite, I re-tasted that a couple of days ago, in part to get a feel for how it's aging, and also related to a project to try and evaluate quality level beyond individual aspect range (a work in progress).  Even in the first month I bought that I expected it might not be as good as it was then at any point in the future, that it shouldn't be aged at all, since any transitioning away from that initial character wouldn't be positive.  It's not as good as it was a year and a half ago, I don't think, but at least it's partly just different.  That ties into a part of the Nan Nuo King Tea Mall description I didn't cite:

A pity that the unique and floral like fragrance only appears on newly processed tea leaf has turned to weaker and weaker, though I try my best to preserve that in my warehouse. 


The most typical summary and divide of aging concerns one runs across insists that better sheng improves with age, and that a newer style range of smooth and initially drinkable style of versions only degrades instead, with those lacking some degree of complexity, bitterness, and feel structure (astringency character) versus more traditional styles.  All that was covered here.  It's not quite that simple, it doesn't seem.  A lot of that pattern may well be valid but to me distilling down a style opposition of two broad types of sheng drops out or glosses over a range of other character differences.  A lot of good Yiwu could potentially get caught up in being "new style" and inferior just for being naturally approachable, per typical regional character.

A response to that might be that Yiwu is a big area (and it is), and that examples of versions that are initially structured (astringent), somewhat bitter, with intense mineral input exist, and could be regarded as the best versions.  And to some extent I'm guilty of the same problem here that's creating that divide in the first place, framing things as clear oppositions in character, when a complex range of styles and aspect profiles can occur.

In any case these were both really nice to experience.  The Nan Nuo version clicked with me better, and I think it's great as it is right now, but I'd probably not buy a version to hold onto and see how it transitions later.

Jing Mai, Nan Nuo, and Ban Pen gushu sheng tasting

Jing Mai left, Nan Nuo upper, Ban Pen right

I'm comparison tasting three versions of sheng from Moychay, more of teas they sent (there are more; I'll keep coming back to this).


Jing Mai 2017 gushu

Nan Nuo 2013 gushu

Ban Pen 2016 gushu


That's a bit of variation for direct comparison tasting, but as covered in past posts prior training/ practice in accounting for variation can help make sense of a limited degree of matching, and should allow for this to work.  In particular tasting teas of different ages will throw off comparison, more than by region.  Mixing those two factors is probably more of an issue than either taken alone.

As far as just tasting a tea to enjoy it one at a time is probably better.  For tasting for review there are pros and cons.  Comparison adds more complexity, more to notice and deal with, which is negative.  It also allows for comparison and contrast across a broad range of aspects, which can be helpful.  It could be difficult to duplicate isolation of finer points of feel, or evaluating length of finish, all of which become much more obvious in direct comparison (although practice would enable that judgment too).  Of course "qi" effect of any one tea as an input becomes indistinguishable in combined tasting; another negative.

No need to repeat it in too many reviews but to really fully experience a tea trying it several times over a longer period helps a lot.  These reviews are to pass on a limited impression, not to map out a complete objective final take.  Even with subjectivity as a factor someone could make some headway towards that kind of a goal, but it should be based on multiple tastings along with varying some inputs (parameters, water used, taste at different times, etc.).

A friend recently asked if a vendor sending so many samples of tea is a conflict, or if receiving more quantity is, a cake versus a sample, for example.  These were just samples, provided by the vendor, but enough to try a number of times.  The idea was that if a vendor sends a few small samples I'm doing the review out of interest for trying and communicating about a tea, but if I get more tea I might be inclined to be more positive; in effect, biased.  My impression about vendor intentions in this case was that the company owner, Sergey, is a tea enthusiast himself, and sharing tea with someone who appreciates it and can pass on feedback is of interest even beyond the marketing angle, which also works out.

I get all that; I give people tea all the time myself, earlier today last.  It's really hard to pass on the last I have of favorites but I try to let people try teas I think they'd like, more than I keep track of what it's costing me.  I recently gave the work support staff good Longjing to serve at a meeting I wasn't involved with so they could try better tea; "tea people" can be like that.

People being people that kind of bias could come up, even if the reviewer intention is the opposite.  But in my own case I don't think I'm varying these review descriptions based on how much tea vendors send, or even related to when I buy the tea versus receiving free samples.  Really anyone else's impression about teas should be taken with a grain of salt anyway.  If a reader can compare a review opinion with a tea version they've tried the match or disparity in communicated impression should be clearer, and if not it would be hard to judge that.  The same would apply to potential bias across vendors.  Preference for a certain style, or against specific aspects, or lack of knowledge or exposure to varying quality levels of teas, or just bad judgement, could all be factors in a reviewer's take on a tea.

Readers are encouraged to provide feedback about some of that; how am I doing?

Jing Mai 2017 gushu

Nan Nuo 2013 gushu

Ban Pen 2016 gushu

Review

I'll start with the initial infusion (after a rinse); it'll be a little early to judge the teas but this will point towards where tasting these will go.  I'm not going to get too far with mapping out my impression of these teas versus other supposed "gushu" versions, or get into what that means.  Some of the aspects tend to relate more to that difference, and I'll just comment a little as it comes up.

The Jing Mai version is sweet and floral, typical of other versions I've tried related to that range.  It is a bit astringent, on the strong side, with that characteristic edge older plant teas tend to have, the intensity.  In terms of flavor that's expressed as a mineral base, as much as anything, but really just that intensity more so.  It's definitely a young sheng; approachable as those can go, but still a little edgy.  At least it's not really bitter or astringent, or smoky, but then I'd not have expected any of that for a Jing Mai version, based on the limited number I've tried.  Yiwu would be just a hint mellower and more floral, with a slightly different flavor range, but not so far off, just different.

The Nan Nuo comes across much differently; no wonder comparing a 2013 tea to a 2017 version.  The warmth, softness, and depth of slightly aged tea is as expected, and giving up some brightness and "top end" intensity.  I like that flavor range.  It reminds me of the other Nan Nuo sheng version I bought from Moychay over New Years; there's a bit of white grape to it, with the plum in this version a bit more subdued, but also present.  It's a softer tea but it still has plenty of edge related to not seeming too subtle.  Of course it comes down to a matter of preference for character but many of those somewhat aged Yiwu versions I've been trying had softened up a lot after just a few years.  If drinking softer, approachable tea was desired those could've been better; if someone saw that balance of aspects including more structure as better then this tea might be (aside from it being way too early to call; this tea is still opening up).  The flavor range is different too, and comparing teas overall is something else.

The Ban Pen has an earthier flavor range that's familiar, still not necessarily easy to describe.  Mineral is part of it, and it traces over into mushroom range, and also a bit of white cardboard.  It is lower in intensity than the other two, but the flavor is just as pronounced; the range it gives up relates to feel, and that one characteristic mineral undertone and astringency edge.

I'm feeling this three-way sheng tasting after one round; that's going to be an issue.  I can make it through a number of rounds but it won't even be close to these teas "playing out."  I could discard the tea instead of drinking it but I'm not really into that.

Jing Mai left, Nan Nuo center, Ban Pen right (Nan Nuo was a touch darker, but similar)

Second round / infusion

The Jing Mai tea is nicer; it opened up more, with a slightly better balance and good intensity.  It seems like it will really only in the normal range next round but it's coming on well.  The sweetness is nice, and that flavor range, a distinctive floral flavor I'll not be able to narrow with flower names.  The brightness and cleanness is nice, and the way that intensity trails off to a nice long finish, a sweet flavor that remains in your mouth and coats your tongue and rear of the throat.  This tea definitely doesn't need age to make it drinkable; it's great as it is now.  It would just be a trade-off over the next couple of years to soften and deepen parts of that range but the overall effect and intensity are good as they are now.  The astringency trails into a bit of actual bitterness but it's moderate; it balances well.

That age difference stands out a lot with the next tea, the Nan Nuo; the effect is completely different.  It's interesting experiencing that; contrast instead of commonality.  It doesn't help to isolate minor aspects or clarify any through comparison but it is interesting encountering both experiences one after the other.  It would've made sense to taste these in age order; that sequencing is partly random and partly intuition.  The first two origins are familiar, and the third isn't, so the order related to best known to least.

Drinking a bit of water after these teas makes for an interesting experience, the way that sweetness really escalates while you do that.  Thaneadpol mentioned that in that Yiwu age sequence tasting last year, how it only works with certain teas, and how he interprets that as another way to experience hui gan.  I sometimes use water to clear my palate during tasting, but with these teas it takes a few sips to clear past that sweetness.  It's kind of a shame to rush tasting these, or to try to describe them during tasting; they deserve closer attention.  I'll try them again later without either distraction.

The sweetness, aftertaste, and hui gan might be even more pronounced in this Nan Nuo sheng.  It transitioned a lot related to that, as intense as I've ever experienced those aspects.  The other actual flavor isn't stronger than typical, and the astringency is quite moderate, with the tone of the flavors a bit dialed to warmer and more subtle by that age transition (5 years).  But the sweetness and aftertaste aspects are as intense as they could be; quite powerful related to the normal range of the others.  Going back and tasting the Jing Mai again just after it (with water in between to clear the aftertaste) that touch of bitterness almost comes across as sour, since the Nan Nuo is so far removed from that.

The Ban Pen flavor range transitioned, warming a little, moving towards earthier, into a bit of smoke.  It has sweetness that helps balance that but seems oddly earthy after drinking those other two teas.  The Nan Nuo has an earthiness to the character related to the flavor softening, to tasting the age, but the base range is more fruit (or so I interpret it), with the Jing Mai more floral.  I think all three will be closer to where they're going to go across the sequence in the next round though.

I can't pin down which of these teas has the strongest qi effect or how the three vary in that nature but at least one of these teas is on the powerful side related to that.  Maybe I'll think to check back later on thoughts on that based on individual tastings.

Jing Mai left, Nan Nuo center, Ban Pen right

same order

Third infusion

The Jing Mai version keeps getting better; the balance keeps improving, depth fills in, and intensity ramps up.  It was nice before, but at this rate it'll be fantastic in another couple of rounds (although I think it's in the range of where it's going to be now).  It's on the soft and approachable side for a newer sheng, but really intense in some aspect range, with some balanced astringency and bitterness.  Given how I relate to astringency in sheng and how some are not drinkable this young across the whole range I'd expect that's quite moderate in comparison to many.  The bright sweetness is nice, and that characteristic flavor range, but really how it all fits together is the best part, for this version.  Hui gan is pronounced but I think that really stands out more in the next one.

I've mentioned before how sometimes you just need to try a better version of a tea and an aspects set makes more sense, even for lower quality versions, even in retrospect, when they hadn't in the past.  This Nan Nuo version lets that earthiness in lots of other teas make more sense (as is present in the Ban Pen, but within a different aspect set).  Shift it a little and the warm earthiness could be murky, or mushroom-like, or could resemble cardboard, or a struck match, but as a related aspect range appears here it balances really well with deeper fruit tones, underlying warm mineral, and very pronounced sweetness and aftertaste.

It's funny how different this tea is from the first, a testament to how much range sheng covers in general.  Sweetness sort of overlaps, and some type of general intensity, but individually the aspects are different, and the set and overall effect vary a lot.  If someone just wanted to experience hui gan this tea would work for that.  It's not really bitter, so that part is odd, how normally a conventional bitterness has to pair with a remaining sweetness, but there is enough layered in with the other range that it then connects with a much stronger after-effect than is typical.  I wouldn't be surprised if this tea was the main one giving me a solid buzz right now (what people refer to as "qi" effect).  It's almost too much; I'll eat something after one more round to help counter that effect.

The Ban Pen is drifting more into warm spice; that's nice, an improvement.  It's quite soft and not notable for sweetness or overall intensity related to the other two but part of that relates to comparison.  That Jing Mai is quite intense related to a bright, sweet, powerful balance and the Nan Nuo has a depth of warmer, subtle flavors, sweetness, and aftertaste that's unusually pronounced.  The balance of this tea is fine, and probably will improve further if it keeps going in this direction.  The sweetness isn't bad, and it isn't thin, it just gives up a lot compared to the other two, perhaps related as much to my preference for an aspect set as this tea being not as good.

Fourth infusion

I need to go do something else, and this has been plenty of tea; this round will be it for these for now.  They're only halfway through their main cycle, before longer infusions will shift character for infusions out around 10 and on, but this will tell enough of the story, and I'll factor the impression from later rounds into the conclusion.

The Jing Mai is picking up some warm spice to go with the lighter floral; that's nice.  There's a balance to the feel and flavor I've not been able to communicate yet.  It's substantial, a bit thick, but in an unusual sense, almost a little syrupy.  Or maybe it's more like how brandy has that one deeper tone that fills in around the sweetness, whatever flavor it has, and the alcohol effect.  I'm not into brandy but that one part of feel overlapping with flavor works well in this; it's interesting.  Flavor is positive, and intense too, with good sweetness and bright intensity, but really the strength of this tea is how it balances.  Adding some bitterness would diminish the effect, per my preference, and taking the bit that there is away might also lessen the tea.

The Nan Nuo is completely different; a richer, deeper experience.  If that tea I bought a cake of in St. Petersburg is headed to this range I shouldn't be so quick to drink through it to enjoy it while the brighter intensity stands out.  That wasn't sold as gushu material; it will be different.  It probably didn't start in the same place, but I'm not experienced enough to guess about specifics, to project back from trying a five year old tea.  I've probably said enough about flavors and other aspects for this one, even though I'd struggle to mention a short list that works for that now.  That mild plum and white grape is layered in there, but warmer tones fill in beyond that, maybe like an aged hardwood, or redrock mineral base.  The flavor is fine but the overall depth of the experience and pronounced aftertaste steal the show.  You experience this tea with your body, not just your sense of taste.

The flavor of the Ban Pen does keep improving, that light spice shifting in level and balance, with a different version of wood filling in some complexity that matches it well enough.  It's just not as deep and intense as the other two, in two different ways.  It's not thin; the feel is fine, the sweetness is ok, and the tea doesn't just vanish after you drink it.  The feel is even picking up a catchy sort of light dryness.

Overall three interesting, very different teas.  I'd bet there would be a lot to experience of further transitions over the next four rounds, that these teas would show other sides of themselves.  It's just a lot to cover in one go, and telling all of the story isn't part of the goal anyway, passing on a limited but clear impression is instead.

after lots and lots of infusions

The review within a review theme

As I edit those notes on a later day I just tried two other younger Yiwu versions with breakfast, teas I've already reviewed before.  Given these are from different areas there's no point in trying to compare them directly, but some running themes for comparison did come to mind.  They were closest in nature to the Jing Mai version, being younger, relatively approachable teas, although this Jing Mai version probably did have a touch more bitterness than either.

There's just a cleanness, depth, and intensity that comes across in better sheng versions, which all of these expressed to some extent.  It might have been more pronounced in the first two reviewed here, and also in those two Yiwu teas and the Ban Pen version.  The Jing Mai tea had a nice floral towards fruity, almost lemony aspect given the brightness, and the Nan Nuo was more fruity and a bit earthier and more subdued, due to the age difference,with the Ban Pen showing more earthier range and then spice.  Preference for aspects sets was a main factor in how I experienced them.  I really liked the profile of the first, and the second worked well for me too but was just different, and the third not as well as the other two.

I also like experiencing something new as much as experiencing the same tea that I already know I like most, favorites.  Those two kinds of experiences are just different.  That's what made that Lao Man E huang pian shou so interesting; it was way off the page of anything I've experienced before.

Conclusions

These were all three really nice teas.  I think I'd probably get even better results out of the Jing Mai version for dropping the proportion a bit; I tend to go heavy on that and use very short infusions to counter it, and the character varies based on that difference.  I don't think it would change drastically, or be that much better, but I think perhaps slightly better.  All three were interesting, with their own unique strengths.  All three transitioned across long cycles of infusions, staying positive for many rounds.

About the "gushu" theme, there's an intensity to older plant teas, and a shift in aspect range, and these fit with what I've experienced of better versions.  I'm not sure the Nan Nuo really needed that much age, or that it might not have even been slightly better--per my preference--a couple years younger.  But it was very good as it was, and as I keep saying experiencing variation is part of the appeal too.  For me if a tea is soft, sweet, and complex to begin with it seems I like them a bit on the young side, when that balance works well, and then only teas that are more challenging initially I might like better some years later.  Others would have different preferences and experiences.


I looked up pricing for these, not something I always get around to mentioning.  The first two were in the $50 per 100 gram range, which is probably fair for what the teas are; you don't find lower cost versions of teas like these.  The third was around $90 instead, a good bit more.  That seems odd given that I liked it the least of the three, but then preference for aspects sets can go like that.  Drinking a good bit of Yiwu lately has me dialed into that soft, sweet, floral nature, and I always do like fruit range in teas.

One other thing I've noticed about how they sell these loose teas:  they don't adjust the rate much at all for volume, not dropping it much at higher quantity.  That works really well for someone wanting to buy 50 grams of lots of versions, or even 25, which is getting down to more like a large sample, just not as well for someone tying to get a better buy on 100 to 200 grams instead.  That would seem to make for a mismatch, getting hooked on gushu sheng and then valuing lower cost range in tea as a primary concern.  I remember a friend once commenting that the worst luck you could ever have is to try a good version of sheng that you like.  It definitely could put you on a different kind of path.

If I had to narrow that difference in good sheng (relatively speaking--there's always a broad range) and decent versions down to one thing I'd say complexity.  Oolongs or even black teas can express great flavor range, and have decent body, and might even transition some across infusions, but whole levels of experience just aren't the same as with better sheng.  There's that unique "qi" themed physiological effect, but even aside from that the mouthfeel, transition cycle, and aftertaste / "hui gan" effects don't occur in other types of teas, or in lower quality sheng versions.  It'll be nice to go back and try the three individually, to go a bit deeper into those experiences without the distraction of writing about it while doing so.  That ties to this positive complexity; subtle differences in approach or even just varying perspective can bring out more to experience in such complex teas.

the munchkins eating fried chicken (not related)